cheftrd

The RB25 uses a T3 flange.

There isn't enough space on this forum to tell you the problems I've had with Turbonetics. But, here's a small example: The last T76 I bought from them, I put on a customers 20B rotary. It failed the 360 degree thrust bearing in under a week. That's par for the course unless you're a big name racer who's sponsored; I suspect that they're using actual Garrett parts in those turbos...After years with a strong foot-hold here, the Japanese have quit buying their crap, all together, due mostly to premature failure. A while back, all of their good engineers quit and formed their own company because they were tired of the BS.

Just about any piston manufacturer will make custom pistons. Of the last 10 sets of Arias pistons I bought, 8 sets came with the wrong rings. In every case, the rings were replaced at no expense to me, but when a customer is waiting for the engine......Good pistons, but a couple of times, the supplied rings could have been installed by someone not thouroghly checking, and would have had disasterous results. I use JE and Wiseco now.

The part # for Nismo 555's for RB25 is 16600-RR543. Retail is $141.75; I sell these injectors for $116.94 each. Deatschwerks sells them for $449/set, but they're used, rebuilt (also good). PROJECTRB240SX is right in that the Nismo injectors are a direct replacement. I sell the Sard injectors for $86.83 each but those require a $35 collar each.

OK. The HKS flanges are laser-cut, mild steel. They are a two piece design (front 3 and rear 3). They start life as a 16mm (0.630) plate and after they are cut, the plate is fly cut on both sides to a final thickness of 12mm (0.472). I've used HKS flanges for RB26, SR20, 13B, etc; they are very high quality. Price is $130 for the two piece set for RB26. They take a month to get and I've orderd a couple sets for future projects. If anyone wants one, PM or email me at matt@motorworx.com

304 or 321 stainless to mild steel is fine when the joint is welded with 309 wire. Very few headers come with a stainless flange. It probably has to do with warpage. Stainless does some real neat contortion tricks when it gets hot. Cast and steel like to break studs on a six cylinder, I'd love to see what stainless does. I can get high quality, thick steel flanges from HKS. Probably $100-200.

I just checked those injectors. $425 for six injectors modified to fit import!! That's a smokin deal. Denso 100# injectors are around $180 each!!

There's still going to be fabrication to install this kit. I'd say "beware the cheap turbo", but $680 is a good deal just for the manifold, wastegate, bov, etc.

No. But you're supposed to tear it down?? Seriously, look into a 200-250 N2O shot for the on-traction, top end charge. I'm about two seconds from working a deal for having bottles filled locally, at huge savings over sending them off. Please don't misunderstand, methanol has a place. Just not in the street driven RB26.

Stony, I got your mail, but I've been sick as hell. Today was my first day back to work this week. I'll give you more specifics later, but read the following and see if you can guess where I stand on alcohol and street driven cars... From Barry Grant.... Applications running alcohol require additional maintenance beyond that of a gasoline fuel system. Alcohol, being extremely corrosive, should not be left in the fuel system or carburetor for an extended period of time. Proper care includes draining and flushing the entire fuel system, usually with gasoline. The most common method is to drain the system and add gasoline to the fuel cell allowing the pump to draw fuel through the lines and to the carburetor. Alcohol carburetors are much richer than gasoline, so when the engine begins to idle and die, the system is pretty well flushed. If your sanctioning body allows the use of fuel additives, always use an additive that lubricates the fuel system for protection while racing. Methanol is pretty much used in cars that are at the end of their power production potential due to fuel limitations. The RB26 is MECHANICALLY limited to 1300 hp, or so. Nobody has been able to keep the engine together over this level (cylinder block gives up and lets go of the head). 1300 hp is achievable on race gasoline, so there's no power bennifit to running methanol. As an example, say you were at 1300 hp and the engine was at it's knock limit with race gas, but mechanically the engine had lots left. You could then use methanol to realize larger gains. American V8's encounter this quite often as the crappy, two valve, bathtub (wedge) combustion chamber severely limits how much MEP the engine will tolerate before detonation. Pentroof and true hemi chambers go way beyond this. (V8 guys calm down. I build those too!) Your T88 34D will make around 750-800 hp worth of airflow. Methanol would allow you to run much hgher compression for a gain in hp. You could also get a bigger turbo and end up with the same results without the fuel headache. Edit: I forgot to add, in alcohols defense, that it's an oxygen bearing fuel, so it also brings more O2 to the game; that's where it get's a lot of the extra power potential from. But it still stands, concerning the RB26, you can make the max-mechanical power limit of the engine with gasoline. It also absorbs water, so you can't store it in the vented fuel cell or it becomes diluted. It severely dilutes your oil, keep it changed. Way more often. If you're looking for that 200hp advantage, N2O is your buddy.

Normally, I don't post stuff loke this, but these were just too beautiful to pass up. This is probably the best LOOKING set of L headers I've ever seen. http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n19070014

If you're jumping the two large terminals across the solenoid, and the body is grounded, and the motor won't spin, you most likely have worn out brushes in the starter. Pull the rear case on the motor apart and inspect the brushes.

There are several grades of Nismo turbos. There is a stock Nismo (R32) version GT-R (not the new $170,000 one). The turbos that come on that engine have steel exhaust wheels vs. the regular ceramic ones. The compressors are a 60 trim vs. a 50 trim and a .60 a/r housing vs. the stock .48 a/r. The exhaust housings are also larger. The big dog of the Nismo aftermarket turbos is the GT Lemans. They're $1800 each, but can make close to 700 on the pair. The GT30R is only rated to around 500hp, give or take, but the turbine wheel is very small. It will choke an RB26. If a turbo is rated for 500 hp @ max air flow, you won't make 500 whp; not even close. If the RB26 came with a stock, single turbo, this would be it. Don't get me wrong; it's a good turbo, but it leaves you with NO upgrade potential for the future. If you are looking for 400hp and want to save some money, send the stockers off and have steel wheels with a clip put in them. Spool will be about the same as stock, and they have about 500 hp potential. I've found it's best to call the turbo company you'll be dealing with and ask. Give them an honest goal, tell them what you have, and you'll end up with the best turbo for your set-up. I really like ITS. Their engineers and products are top notch. Stay away from the HKS turbos unless you find a smokin' deal. They're Garrett and very good turbos, but WAY overpriced. You can get something just as good in the States for $1000 cheaper. The manifolds come with a T4 or V-Band flange.

First, the GT30R is a little small for the RB26. If converting to a single on an otherwise stock engine, you should be looking at the GT40 or Innovative GT61. The stock Nismo turbos will make as much power as the GT30. On the manifold, I'll look around and see what I can find. The bad thing is that all the manifolds out of Japan are 304 stainless, which is crack prone due to carbide precip. at elevated temps. I gaurentee you 100% that a Trust manifold will crack. The HKS ones are much better because they use a much heavier wall and all of the pipes are one piece, flange-to-flange. I haven't had one crack yet, but it may eventually.

AN size is -10. 3/8 FPT is actually quite a bit larger then 3/8"

Sure, but that pump Joel has is probably around $1500. I wouldn't do anything that's non-reversable.

I would tap the outlet in the block that buts up to the pump, and install a threaded plug (just like the oil galleys). There's no pressure. All you're doing is preventing air from leaking into the vacuum created by the pump. Your way will work too, but I would be concerned about the washer coming loose and developing an air leak.

The GT-R diff is substantially stronger that the normal R200. Stub shafts are larger as well as the ring gear bolts. There are a few companies in Japan making multi-plate clutch differentials for the R230, but they run about $1800!!

Sigurd, a note on what I posted above: I recently put a 3.69 final in a 700hp RB26 RWD car iwith R33 trans, instead of the common 4.1 and 4.3 because the 4.1 and 4.3 kept breaking. The car previously spun 275/50/15 Nitto 555R's through third gear. The car now spins in first, but the acceleration is phenomenal. Second gear is almost completely hooked up. The lower numerical gear will also tolerate more power before breaking as less torque is transmitted to the ring gear by the pinion gear. You should never have a problem with the R230 from the Z32.

The R33 and Z32 transmissions are the same as far as the gearing goes. It would take just as much work to put a GT-R diff in as the R230 and the 230 is considerably stronger. The 33 trans with a 3.6 final actually works very well. It's a little long in first gear, but if you're not running slicks, this is an advantage and will actually make the car quicker by helping to eliminate wheel spin in first...and second...and third...

It won't come apart at 8K, however, if you shift the engine up there, quarter times will be slower. I know it feels like it's still pulling, but the power has dropped off. The 501hp 25 I mentioned in the other thread made peak power at about 7300 with 272's.