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The basic three engines you will encounter (excluding N1, etc.) are the 32, 33, and 34. The only difference that will affect performance and reliability between the 32 and 33 engines is the crank. Both are strong and capable of supporting 800+ hp but the oil pump drive on the 32 crank is shorter and the pump will end up with catastrophic failure. You can have it sleeved, though. The 34 engine has lots of different stuff and is not the engine of choice if your goal is doing anything other than keeping the engine stock. There are way more parts available for the 32 and 33 motors. When doing a new motor and not using the customers existing base, I always use a 33 engine to start. If the engine is a 32 engine, I put a new 33 crank in it.

The RB30 block is a taller block and there will be clearance issues with the hood unless you mount the engine way back and down. Not trying to rain on your parade, but nobody in Japan even messes with the RB30 because you can get more power fron the 26 base with a lot less headache.

You can scrap the stock engine management harness, but you will want to retain some items like the oil pressure and water temp so that your stock gauges work. It's a lot easier than trying to rewire the entire car.

RB20 trans behind a 500hp 26 will last about 1 holeshot. In fact, under a hard 3rd gear pull, you may lose all the teeth on third gear RB is RB is RB. I prefer the pull type clutches. They have much less pedal pressure for the same clamp. The HKS clutches for pull type RB have very nice street manners.

Jim, Don't mean to be a dream destroyer, but.....for the price you could buy an S20 for, if you could find one, you could probably do a complete RB26 swap. No joke. Even then, there's no way you could find all the extra stuff needed for that engine.　If you're dead set on this, your best bet is to keep your eye on the Japan Yahoo Auction．Good luck

The Nissan system does not have an idle air control motor like more complex Toyota systems. First, the PVC valve in the balance tube (hose comes from the cam cover) must not be blocked. This feeds air to the balance tube at idle. The idle speed can be adjusted with the idle screw in the air chamber. The air regulator valve will only provide minor corrections. If you are running large injectors or whatever, It's going to be hard to get the fuel trim just right so that the engine doesn't stall when it's cold. To cure this, use a relay to run the AAC valve. The relay is actuated by the SDS grounding the field coil of the relay. You can also use a diode and run a wire from the AC compressor clutch to the AAC valve itself. This will idle up the engine when the AC comes on. This is the original purpose of the AAC valve. The diode in the wire from the compressor clutch keeps the compressor from turning on when power is supplied to the AAC valve by the warm up circuit. The engine may idle as high as 1500rpm. BEWARE with big cams!!! If the AC is running and the valve is on, you will lose substantial brake boost due to lack of vacuum. The AAC manifold that bolts to the air chamber is a direct swap for the one from the Z32 VG30DETT. The Z has two solenoids, one small and one large. I use the small one for the AC and the large one for the warm up. No problems with 272's. The RB26 AAC manifold can also be adjusted for the amount of air bypass, but you have to remove the putty closing the adjusting screw. You will probably break it attempting this operation. On race engines with custom surge tanks, manifolds, etc, the air chamber can be mounted remotely, or you have to design your own air bypass for idle and idle up. I use a fixed size orifice in a hose from the piping to the plenum in a single throttle or the balance tube in the six throttle configuration. Then add an adjustable valve for idle control, and finally an electrically operated, adjustable valve for warm up. Here is a really good tip that will save your motor: When using a large, single throttle like the Q45, etc, never adjust the idle with the throttle!! That little screw on the side is a throttle stop, not an idle adjustment. It's meant to keep the butterfly from wedging closed. If the butterfly does not touch the bore of the throttle body because it's open to accommodate additional air for idle, it will flex the throttle shaft severly when you close the throttle under boost. Vacuum on one side and a boost spike on the other will try to close the butterfly. The shaft will fail at the weakest point (butterfly bolts) in short order. Best case is that your engine eats a bolt. I've seen this happen alot.

The air regulator is thermostaticly controlled. It increases and decreases air as the engine temp fluctuates (it's bolted directly to the engine coolant outlet). It does not require the electrical hook up to work properly. The AAC valve can be controled by the SDS for warm-up idle up and air conditioner idle up (if used). The stock boost control valve must be removed whenever boosting the RB. Otherwise, the boost will be very erratic. You can use the stock metal actuator feed tube coming around the back of the head. Hook this up to one of the two small air outlets (6mm) on the front side of the air chamber. If you are using a boost controller, use one of these ports for the feed and run the outlet to the actuators. The SDS does not control boost, it has a limiter to keep the engine from over boosting.

Pistons, rods, oil pump, crank, block; in that order. No problems with the valve train when upgraded properly. Step 1 cams require no mods but benefit from springs, step 2 cams require springs, etc. There is no sense in reving a motor with the stock cams higher than stock. There is no additional benefit to this.

You should always take every precaution to avoid detonation. Forged pistons are good insurance in a 500hp RB. IF you have prolonged knock and burn a piston, it won't make a difference. However, forged pistons won't break ring lands like the stock cast pistons will.

If you look at the stock air inlet to the turbo, there is a hose that goes to the cam cover (unless it's been modified). When a piston lets go, the crankcase gets pressurized and blows oil out and into the turbo compressor inlet. Yasin, It's not that they won't make good power in the hands of a good tuner, they just have no tolerance for knock at elevated boost levels; same goes for the stock 26. If you are running up the boost to around 1.5, 1 bad pull with a hard knock can kill it. The ring lands give up quick. Only shooting 25psi of compression says that #6 is probably suffered a severly burned piston, probably on the intake side.

You have broken or burned pistons. 25's are fragile and won't tolerate much detonation. 90% of the time with RB's, #6 is the first to go. Are you still running the stock turbo and piping? If so, the oil coming out of the BOV could be from the crankcase vent into the turbo inlet. If it's on the right side of the engine compartment, it could also be from the dip-stick being blown out.

The throw out bearing and collar are only around $30. Shipping to SD would be between $50-70. Both of these clutches are state-of-the-art, brand new; parts will be available for many years to come. Contact me at matt@motorworx.com for more info

I can give you an OS twin for $1276 plus shipping or HKS GD PRO for$1294/GD MAX $1437 I prefer the HKS clutch because it uses a single hub (like OS R3C/R4C)and the replacement discs are less than half of what the OS discs cost. The HKS clutch is also much better mannered for street driving. Remember that the twin or tripple disc clutches require a different release bearing and sleeve.

On the front, right and rear, left of the head are two bosses for 8mm bolts. The rear has two studs. These are the correct lift points.

If you have the original PN of the clutch, I'm sure I can get the parts you need.

Here's a little stoke for the VG and/or RB in a Z guys. http://www.motorworx.com/videos/300zx_dragster.mpg http://www.motorworx.com/videos/burnout.mov

The stock crank will handle 700+ hp with no problems. That's way past what the S30-31 body will handle without some serious mods. There's no reason to purchase a $3000 crank at this level. Stand-alone EM will net you large gains over the stock AFM equipped system.

matt@motorworx.com or call (Japan 81) 90-5932-4881 OEM parts I sell at retail (no "special RB26 mark up) Most aftermarket stock for 10-20% discount Most aftermarket high performance (HKS, GReddy, etc) for 10-30% discount

When an engine heats up and then starts to make tapping noises, there's a good chance that its hydraulic lifter related. As the oil gets hotter, it becomes thinner, making it harder for older lifters to stay "inflated". Especially at idle or very low RMP's. I'm not sure how cleaning the lifters would help...They probably just need to be replaced.

As far as the original question goes, the answer is NO. I thought about it quite a bit and couldn't think of a single point for putting trip Webbers on an RB25.

Stony, what new EM are you planning on using?

I've seen this interference problem on quite a few Electromotive setups. Powerful electric fans near the sensor will also cause them to run erratic. In the past, I've built custom mounts for SBC to keep the Electromotive sensor down near the oil pan. No interference problems with a CSR pump.