padam07

That's a 1976-1978 Datsun 810. Which was renamed the Maxima in 1980 when they went to the Nissan name. Oh by the way it has a L24 engine in it.

I was trimming my carpet when installing and I slipped....

I have read that flat top carbs are the biggest pieces of junk. In fact people used to switch them out with round tops from 1970-1972 model years or the very common weber down draft carbs when they were new. Ths car is definitely a 1973.

That is most likely a 73. If it is indeed a 240z. I doubt anybody would swap flat top carbs into a 72.

You daily drive your car? I have seen quite a few people here from mass but I have yet to see a z on the road in a long time. I just got my 260z registered last week. I drove it 1 day and I get a lot f necks snapping. Sorry for being off topic.

For the past 2 weekends I have been trying to get this thing somewhat ready for the road so I can get it out of the garage and at my house. I finally got the car registered with only a little fight with the RMV for not having a title. (bought car in CT which pre 1981 does not need a title) Last weekend I installed the front carpet, console and both seats. I was hoping to drive the car home that day but for some reason the car wouldn't run for ****. Here are a few picks of getting the car pushed out before I realized it was running right. This is why I pushed it out on dollies. My buddy has his M3 completely torn out for a complete suspension and brake overhaul. My car barely squeaked by thank god. It would not have been fun moving his car with no where to bolt the wheels Notice the different setting? Well it turns out the reason the car was running like garbage was because I am an idiot. First of all I had the #1 and #6 cylinder swapped on the distributor cap. Once that was corrected the car STILL didn't run right. After taking of the air cleaners I noticed the carbs were overfilling with gas. It was acting like the fuel pressure was too high and overpowering the floats. So I checked the fuel pressure regulator (I am running and electric holley pump) I noticed when I permanently fixed the fuel pressure regulator to the firewall I installed it backwards so I wasn't regulating anything!!! Once that was fixed and I took all the plugs out and turned over the engine to blow out all of the fuel in the cylinders the car fired and idle like normal. Huge relief!!:icon21::icon21: The ride height is still not where i want it because I purchased the wrong tires for the front and they rub the front of the fender when the suspension is too low. I am just so friggin happy I am driving it on the roads. It has been a long 2 years for me and a long 10 years for the car being on the road. I have a lot of projects I will be doing at home now the car is here. repair door panels install front bumper install rear carpet figure out why the wipers will not work I am sure the list will go on forever

Honestly I would wait to do the work after you get the suspension bits and wheels. If you were having ZG fiberglass flares installed then I would say you can go ahead and do it because you can bolt them up while keeping the factory lip as a reference. Then once installed you trim the lip. With molded metal flares you can't do this. Unless your body guy (or you) is really good at taking measurements.

Subscribing....

I just registered my 260z but have yet to get an inspection. II doubt they will care if the emissions equipment is gone. As long as the safety side is good I am sure you will be all set.

Tirerack.com

I have been working on the car hardcore the past couple weekends. The passenger seat bracket . It is complete and only the seat needs to be welded to it. Don't look at the welding flash....:icon38: I decided to relocate the battery to the hatch area. So I had to purchase a bracket and some battery cables. After some research on hybridz.org I found that it is recommended to run both positive and negative cable back to the engine bat and not just the positive. I guess S30 cars are prone to faulty grounds. I sourced everything from eBay and it it only set me back about $150. The bracket is for a red top optima. My wife just surprised me yesterday morning with my birthday present and father's day present..... She purchased the entire application kit as well as 2 gallons of the sound deadening material. Yeah I know there are many home recipes to make your own lizard skin but I said screw it and wanted to get the real deal. I will be working on the car tomorrow getting the battery installed and the interior back into it. I am going to drive the car for a bit before I install the lizard skin so I can see the difference in sound reduction. The interior is easy it remove in this car. I will have more pics for you guys on Sunday!!

Agree.....after I finished cutting mine the cut offs was just a pile of bent me

I am pretty sure they fit fine. It has the original body just as been completely rebuilt. I bought oefrom a member here for cheap and really you only ave to adjust the push wrong length. Other Han tattered are no fitment issues.

^They are not as cheap as they once were. A used one goes for about $100bucks now. Good luck find a reman one at any autoparts store.

Sorry guys for not posting updates. Since I have started to work second shift I have almost no time to get to the garage and work on the car. I have worked on it the last couple Saturdays and here is some progress photos. I don't have any photos of the front fenders in progress. Cutting the passenger rear. Driver rear after cutting welding. Seam sealer was applied. Next is to paint the bare metal. close up of the front fender After pics (cell pics) but before the rears were cut. I haven't adjusted the ride height yet so that's why it looks off right now. I have not installed the bumpers yet. I have a set of 240Z satin black fiberglass bumpers ready to go

Glad I live mass. Even though we have the strictness emission standards any car older than 1995 (non obd-II) do not have to pass emissions.

Here is the company that I purchased my fender wilting from..... http://www.thefastenerconnection.com/Products/00040.htm Here is their email quote to me form over a year ago. Quotation:  Monday, December 06, 2010   (valid for 30days) Hello Adam Pricing by the foot (Broken Package Pricing). $1.74/foot  FW4134DS - 1/4"bead, 1-1/2"leg, 1-3/4"overall $1.25/foot  FW7100DS - 7/32"bead, 3/4"leg, 31/32"overall $3.92/foot  FW3112PI - 3/16"bead, 1-5/16"leg, 1-1/2"overall $4.19/foot  FW3200PI - 3/16"bead, 1-13/16"leg, 2"overall $4.29/foot  FW4112PI - 1/4"bead, 1-5/16"leg, 1-1/2"overall $8.21/foot  FW4200PI - 1/4"bead, 1-13/16"leg, 2"overall $4.97/foot  FW3112CM - 3/16"bead, 1-5/16"leg, 1-1/2"overall $1.35/foot  FWV875H - 3/16"bead, 1-3/16"leg, 1-3/8"overall  (actual dimensions may vary slightly) Fender welt details available at: http://www.faccafasteners.com/Products/00040.htm'>http://www.faccafasteners.com/Products/00040.htm For shipping questions/methods/costs, please contact Karen in shipping. 1-800-265-7606,      519-681-5931,      shipping@faccafasteners.com Or, let us know your courier and we'll send it on your shipping account. All internet orders must be $5 minimum.  (before taxes and shipping) ‡CAD Prices. *Excludes:taxes,shipping,insurance,brokerage,customs/duty (‡* unless otherwise indicated.  *If any are applicable.) http://www.faccafasteners.com/Forms/Terms.html'>http://www.faccafasteners.com/Forms/Terms.html Sincerely Jason Hewitt Facca Fasteners Limited  703 Exeter Road.     London, ON, Canada     N6E 1L3  Phone:  519-681-5931                 Fax:  519-681-4874  Toll Free:   1-800-265-7606 http://www.faccafasteners.com/ ----- Original Message Below -----

I am sorry but before giving information like that you should verify it is correct. Advance autoparts' website has it listed for $150. Thats if it is in stock. Almost everywhere across the country is out of stock. If you can find it in stock the you should buy everyone in stock. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Brake-Master-Cylinder-Wagner_26946112-P_230_R|GRPBRHYAMS_____

Yeha I only paid like $60. I am happy with them once i fixed the threads on my studs. I doubt they are any higher quality than yours. They weigh like an ounce each. Whats good about the rota rbr;s is that they were designed to fit a normal size socket and therefore not needing tuner lugs. About my car. I am happy with the flares. I wished the front wheels were a little more flush to the flare. The rears are awesome. I screwed up and orderd 245/45 tires for the fron thinking I can keep the same overall rolling diameter as the reas but I am having rubbing issues. I am going to be buying a new set of fronts 245/40. Turns out that 245/45-17 are the stock size for e36 m3 rear wheels so my buddy will be buying them off me for what I paid for them. I have a shitty coil over suspension in it that was already installed when I purchased the car. The pics that I have here are do not have the front coil overs adjusted properly. I will be lowering them about 2 inches to get the correct ride height. I may be lowering the rears just a tad also. these were taken immediatly after installing the rear flares. I still have to weld the inner fender wells to the out quarter panels. Sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.

I am curious to see what lugs you did purchase. I bought a set off of ebay also and I too had problems with threading them on. I was able to fix the problem by buying a die the and chasing my studs. I din't change the thread pattern it just brought it back to exact which i am assuming the lugs were. Aftet that the lugs threaded on with ease. Here are thew ones I purchasewd. Here is them installed before the flares were installed.

I couldn't personally give an opinion on what types of pads are good but I did just read a good article in the October issue of grassroots motorsports where they did a comparison on a handful of different types of race pads on an E36 BMW. Check it out I am sure you will get some good info.