padam07

I did my best to get the seats as low as possible using the existing celiac sliders. I am 5'10 and I have a few inches between my head and the roof so think you may have some headroom issues unless you use a different set of sliders or cutting an lowering the existing floor braces where seats bolt to.

These masters are becoming harder and harder to find. If the rebuild kits are going by the wayside then we are in trouble. I havent found any parts stores who still carry them. A few months back I was trying to track down a master and was able to get one from a member here for only $55. He rebuilt it and had he caps replated. I actually felt bad about the price being so low(he named the price) so I gave him a little more cash.

Definitely Dunlop dirrezza star specs. We use them on our Lemons race car. Amazing grip in the dry and wet. We ran a full 24 hour race at Nelson ledges in Ohio, finished 16 out of 120+ on one set of star specs. On May 7-8th we finished 1st overall by 14 laps at Loudon International Motor Speedway in New Hampshire also on one set of star specs.

Not a one off.....take a look at the previous page. I have pics of my driver seat install. In the process of my passenger seat right now.

I agree on getting one from auto zone. Best price around. You can use the resevoirers off of your 7/8 mc. I posted a wtb thread here and another member sold me one for $50 shipped. He even had the resevoirer caps replated. It was in beautiful shape.

^seems like a good Idea to use seam sealant.

I don't know why op is ignoring this thread he was active on this forum just let week.

Compressed air, a good vacuum cleaner with some sort of filter, and a tack rag that the previous poster said.

Sure no problem. I will most likely post them in my build thread. I will PM you the link.

I too was in need of the spacer and I also had a problem with communication with MM. I found in the brake thread of Silvermine Motors. They are actually $10 cheaper and they shipped the spacers within a few days of the order. UPS says I will get them by the end of the week.

I always like to see people trying new things on there own but man I think changing tires is one thing I will never do on my own. I can't believe how much more expensive it is in Cali than Mass. Here a local shop will mount and balance a tire for $12. New stem is $2 and waste fee is another $2. So for $65 for a set of 4 is what I will do forever.

I used OEM replacement bushings from MSA and they barely stick out past the control arm. Are you sure you are using the correct bushings? I don't think you are using spindle pin bushings. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01C02/23-4313 here is the pic directly from MSA.

I am in the middle of installing 5th gen Celica leather seats right now. I ended up having to cut the hump out and patch it with a concave piece to make it work. I am using the toyota slides to a custom bracket. I just cut all of the brackets off the bottom and welded a nut inside of the track to bolt to the bracket. Currently I only have the driver seat complete but I am working on the passenger now. Here are some pics. I used 1/8" plate because you have to cantilever the bracket.

The challengers car had the worst paint job ever! You could see how bad it was at any angle. It was so orange peeled it looked textured. I can't believe they didn!t even flare it. Was cool that they made their own carbon fiber bits but it looked like they didn't get to clear coat them.

I am not sure what offsets to use without flares. I never did any research because I always wanted flares. Yes the size i have are the 9 and 9.5. They are too wide to use without flares.

Ok I just got off the phone with classic Datsun a few minutes ago and to tell you the truth I am disappointed. Even though we discussed making a new set that will be garanteed to fit perfect a couple of weeks ago he told me today he won't do if for a while because he doesn't have a car or the money to invest in a new set. He initially it would take a couple weeks to get a set complete. I need to get a set installed in the next month so i will be installing the set I have from MSA. I will do my best to make them fit correct. Sorry to get your hopes up for a set the fits good.

That isn't a projector. That is the back of the headlight.

Here read up in this thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57565-rota-rbrb-r-4x1143-17-z-offset-wheels/ They are specifically built with the correct offsets for S30's. They fit perfect with ZG flares. I purchased a set of these. Excellent service and extremely fast shipping. here is a quick pic when I first bolted them up.

I just thought I would give my 2 cents here. I purchased a set of MSA flares about a year ago and finally after purchasing the Rotas from the group by a couple months ago I am ready to tackle this installation. I started to dry fit the flares and I am not happy with the fitment at all. As noted within the thread the front flares are different length. I also don't like how they form to the body. I did notice that people were saying tha tthe classic datsun flares are a lot better for fitment. I decided to call MSA and see if I can return them. Even after a year they gave me a RMA with no questions asked. I will get a $200 credit (I will have no problem spending that:) I then called classic datsun and told him about my concerns with the MSA flares. He told me the entire story about how he used to supply MSA with the flares until they went behind his back and got their own molds made at the smae fiberglass fabrication shop that made his. Then he had problems with his parts getting mixed up with MSA parts. (shop mixed the molds) He told me with all honestly that he can't guarantee any different fitment than the current MSA flares. He told me what he would like to do is sand and fix a set perfectly and have new molds made. I was real happy with that and he said that it should only take a couple weeks. I I am waiting for my tax check before I have him pull the trigger. I will let everyone know with pictures how they come out. Sorry about the wall of text.

HA sorry about the mega squirt. Sorry can't sell yet. I haven't even driven it on the street yet. LOL Yes is doesn't stand for Far East trading. I like it a lot due to it being so short and I have a lot of clearance next to the shock tower. I am still looking for a vacuum hose bung to plug into my brake booster though...

I didn't have time yesterday to check. I will check next time I am there. I might have made the mistake and swapped the bushings. Thanks I will check.

It has been a very long time since my last chance to work on the car. I started a new job which is second shift and with 2 kids I never seem to find the time to get to the garage. I had a couple hours on the car yesterday. I decided to fit the wheels on to see where I am at. I am getting ready to install the flares as soon as my buddies 328 is out of the garage after a new clutch. Here are the pics. Don't worry this is not the location where the flares will be mounted. I just wanted to quickly tape them on to get an idea. You can see in the next 2 pictures that I have some sort of adjustment issue. I had the front suspension completely out and obviously I didn't do something right. Look at how for forward this wheel is. If anybody has an suggestions please discuss in the following thread http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98259-front-wheel-not-centered/page__p__922041__fromsearch__1#entry922041

I did a search but did not come up with much information. I installed my Rota wheels yesterday to get ready to do my flare installation. Well I noticed an issue with my passenger side wheel being too close to the front of the fender. I had the suspension out of the car to install new strut cartridges. Does anybody think that when I reinstalled everything that I messed up this adjustment at the compression rod? Will I be able to pull the wheel back by the compression rod?? Here are the pics to show you what I mean. passenger side. Driver side

Sounds like you might have a bad master cylinder if the pedal goes to the floor initially. The leaking of the caliper just sounds like you got another defected caliper. I guess you are just having bad luck with them.

My buddy just purchased a 2006 GTO that was a flood car to do an LS2 swap into his 94 RX7. The car was almost brand new went it rolled into the Connecticut River. The car only had 2k miles and he purchased it for $7500. The car had no body damage. Your car has 42k miles so I think your estimate of aroun $5-5.5k seems right but mayber closer to $6k. Right now he is trying to sell the shell as a whole and he will be getting about $3k for it. There is a ctually a guy in Texas who buys flood cars and guts the electrical with a wrecked car. He said he doesn't need anything inside the car just the bare shell.