zeeboost

Yeah, I know what semll you're talking about. My stocker '77 had that "mildew" smell, and even after replacing the carpet, reupholstering the seats, and installing new weatherstripping, its still there. It must be a scent installed directly from the factory. Old Zpice perhaps...? However, my v8 280zx smells nothing like the Old Zpice -- immediately when you sit down in it, you're overwhelmed with that fresh Gear Oil smell. Ahhh...now that's the stuff dreams are made of.

So I guess just stay with the stock one, huh? I can't find anyone around here that carries one in stock...even for a T-5. They all have to order them. Tim, what year is your slave cylinder? And did you get it for a T-5 or T-56? Thanks for the help.

My slave cylinder went out on my yesterday for my t-56 (came out of a 97 Formula), and while it’s not really old (approx. 40,000 miles), I’m curious as to what type of unit to buy that will fit well with the t-56. The one that broke was an AP unit, which I heard were supposed to be pretty good. I’ve been looking at buying the T-5 slave and using Ron’s adapter for it, but I’m afraid that if I go stock again, it will go out and leave me stranded. Is there a performance T-5 slave cylinder that I’d be able to buy that would be a direct replacement (would require any other machining/drilling to mount) and would still be compatible with Ron’s adapter? I checked the archives, but the only info I could find was just to order a T-5 unit from 1990-2000, so I’m not really sure. Thanks for the help.

Hmm, even though I’ve never used one, I always figured an a/f meter would be the best way to go to tune the carb. I remember reading that they tell you if the car is running rich or lean, but I didn’t know that they couldn’t give an accurate reading of it. I thought about getting an a/f gauge, but I figured the aftermarket monitor would be more efficient. I remember searching through these archives and I found somebody who bought a Holley Street Avenger 770 brand new, and said that it ran like crap and that he had to use his G-Tek to find the most efficient jets for primaries and secondaries that would get him the best a/f ratio. Maybe I will just buy a gauge and mount it in the car. Thanks for the post – does anybody else have a suggestion, or for that matter any other information on a “G-Tek”? I know of the Gtech, but not the G-Tek…? Thanks.

Man, that was awesome! Hey, can somebody post a link to the commercial involving the bird? That'd be great!

I'm looking at buying an a/f monitor to help me tune my carb, but I'm not sure which would be the best one to buy. I searched through the archives, but all I found were people saying that they used their a/f monitor, but not which one they had. I wanted to go the fuel injection route, but due to financial limitiations, I just bought a Holley Street Avenger 670, and am in the process of tuning it. All I know right now is that it's running very rich, and the secondaries aren't opening up...? But anyways, in your opinion, what do you think is the most accurate a/f monitor? The only ones Summit offers is from K&N and MSD, but I'm sure there's more out there than just those two. Thanks for the help

Well, finally something worked out -- I guess it really all depends on which representative you talk to. I called back once again last night, and after roughly ten minutes of discussion and explaining my case, I was able to recieve $70.55 credit to the $87 charge they sent me. Of course, they said it would take 2-3 business days, so I'm still holding my breath If the credit ends up going through, I shall continue to do business with them. I suppose in the future I will just drop off the package at their store instead of having the local guy come and pick it up from the house. At least I still made money on the deal, so I do feel better about this. Thanks guys for cheering me up.

Thanks for the replies...I called UPS to try and resolve the matter, but it only made things worse. All the rep did was just repeat what their e-mail said they were charging me for, and kept reminding me that their was nothing they could do about it. Then when I asked how they could charge it on my credit card without my consent, she answered, "Since you used the credit card to pay the initial charge, we had your authorization to make adjustments." That's total BS! I never even used my credit card in the first place. I had a $95 dollar Paypal balance from the buyer's payment, and I just had the charge deducted from that balance. Sorry to rant like this, I'm just mad at them right now. I've never had a billing dispute like this one, so I'm not really sure what else I can do. It looks like my only option is to grab my ankles, unless any of you have any suggestions.

Heh, that's a good one -- would've been better if the filter was turned off, but what're ya gonna do? Thanks aux

I recently sold a pair of louvers on eBay for $71. I set up shipping with UPS that was supposed to be for about $25. Sounds like a fair price to me -- the louvers are only 36" x 38", and they barely fit into the box. So, I have the louvers delivered to the buyer and the transaction went smoothly. Just yesterday I recieved an e-mail from UPS. I open it up, and it seems as if they've charged me an extra $87!! I look to see why, and they said the box weighed 90 lbs. (bs) and that the box's length and girth exceeded 130" (which it didn't, but even if it did, they should've told me they were going to charge me that much when I gave them the dimensions of the box). Then, to top everything off, they tell me that I don't need to worry about paying the bill, because they've already charged it on my credit card.. I can't charge the buyer that extra amount for shipping, because a) it's not his fault, and he already did everything he was supposed to -- so his part is over. This also means that I have acutually lost money on the deal! Does anybody have any advice or suggestion of what to do before I call them tonight and tear 'em a new one!?!

I'm not sure if the user is a HybridZ member or not, but his s/n is GodZilla, and the picture can be found at zdriver.com

It worked for me -- I believe he was trying to open the bid at around $25,500! And it still had the seemingly stock L6!

Referring to this?

Old, but... One day a guy was speaking at a paranormal gathering to discuss their related experiences with. He says, "Have any of you ever seen a ghost?" Most of everyone raise their hand. Then he says, "Have any of you ever talked to a ghost?" Very few people raised their hand. Then he asks, "Have any of you ever engaged in sexual intercourse with a ghost?" Then one man way in the back raises his hand. So the speaker says, "Sir, could you step up here for a minute?" So they guy walks up there and the speaker says, "Sir, could you explain the details of your sexual intercourse with the ghost?" Puzzled, the guy replied, "Oh, I'm sorry, I thought you were saying goat."

Man, why can't we get an airdam like that when we even have the REAL thing?? And yes, those do look good, but I feel sorry for the coefficient of drag increase that they have to endure.

I too have a hybridzx -- 82 with a 355 & T-56...let me tell you -- unless you really know what you're doing and/or have a buddy that knows what he's doing and is willing to dedicate a lot of time to this project, it will cost you much more than what you are planning. I was going into this project thinking I should spend no more than $7500 on it . There is over $15,000 invested in it, and approx. $3500 - $4000 in just the engine alone. And I still don't have it painted yet or reupholstered the interior! Just be sure you buy the JTR book and read and re-read it until you have a good grasp of how much the project will cost. Then tripple that figure. If this is your first project car then you will most likely be doing a lot of trial and error, which will cost you some $$$. Also, since the zx really isn't covered in the JTR book, mounts will require some creative thinking. I'm not sure how the 700r4 bolts in, but if you're going to put in a T-56, you better know how to weld. Since this is your first project car, I would say you should just get a carbed 350 with the 700r4 tranny -- should be the easiest and most cost-friendly swap (if you're going v8 ). If you search through the archives here you will find some good links to businesses that sell good, cheap, rebuilt 350s, which that would give you a good head start. Good luck

My vote is for Super Contra -- I remember using that code too, I'll just be damned if I could remember what game it was for.

Only in the U.S.

Well, according to my AutoMeter temp gauge, I'm running at about 180-185 on highway, but in stop and go traffic I've seen the gauge read about 250 before I pulled it over to the shoulder and shut it down. However, at idle, when I used on of those laser temperature gauges (I'm not sure what they're called, but they're the ones that you just point, click, and get a temp reading) it said that my engine was idling about 185 when my gauge was reading 225, so it could be that my gauge is just off. The only thing that makes me think the gauge is accurate is that 180 sounds about right if I'm going at a constant speed on the highway, not 140. Also, when I did see it rise to about 250, whitish smoke starting rising from the engine bay and then idle grew very rough (I was thinking that possible the fuel was boiling). Cooling system consits of: New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans (no fan shroud yet). The fans stay on the whole time, although I could set them to turn on at a certain temperature. Like I mentioned earlier, I'm thinking that venting the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) and getting a fan shroud should help correct this problem. It's times like this I wish I had an Lt1 As far as the block goes, tomorrow, if they seller can verify his claims through receipts, I'm gonna buy it. The only thing I'm worried about is that the block life may have been dramatically shortened, considering it has approx. 4,000 miles of some HARD running on it. I'm talking burning slicks in 2nd gear (in an auto), racing a VR4 from 0 - top end and leaving it in the dust, and many, many posi marks resulting in plenty of time spent doing high rpms. But oh well, it's just money, right? Hopefully I can qualify for FAFSA this year... Thanks again guys, er, Guy

You have my vote. About a month ago I purchased some injectors from some guy here that were supposed to be used for "one month", but when I got them in, only three worked, the terminals were corroded, etc. Anyways, I think that would be a great idea. Some of the stuff on here can be very costly, and if it's misadvertised by some jackass, it'll really flare up the buyer. Great Idea!

My heads are aluminum and also have 64cc's, and as for the cam, he was also running the 280H cam. BUT, I installed rhoads lifters (when I still had the engine running using the bad block) and my friend didn't know that they "tick" at low rpm, so when he was adjusting the timing (I wasn't there, otherwise I would've stopped him) he tightened down the rockers too much and it rounded off lobes on the 280H, cracked and chipped the lifters, bent pushrods, and clogged up the oil pump with metal shavings. Sooo, now I have to buy another cam and I'm looking at which kind to get with higher compression. I've been thinking about a roller setup, but man that's a lot of $$$ I'm already having trouble keeping the engine cool now, if I put in the other block I'll really have hell with it. New waterpump, new griffin radiator, new hoses, new thermostat, and new electric fans. I'm thinking if I get a fan shroud and vent out the engine bay (vents in hood and fenders) then that should help, otherwise I'm going to melt the engine in stop-n-go traffic. Problems, problems, problems. Thanks for the replies Guy.

This would be just the short block -- I have the heads, intake, carb, etc. I just got some more info on the block: Pistons are Speed Pro hypereutectic flat tops (supposedly 10.5:1 w/64cc heads) Eagle Connecting Rods From I remember, the crank is stock He claims there is about $850 worth of machinework done to it. He said that he has the receipts for all of the work, so if this much is true, I'm pretty sure I'm gonna buy it, unless you would have a good reason not to. Thanks guys.

It has 4,000 miles on it, it came from a 350, and I've seen it run (which it runs like a cheetah, on speed, with its ass on fire) The block is bored .030 over with hypereutectic flat top pistons and all ARP bolts. He wants $600, which sounds a bit high to me, but then again I haven't been in the v8 market for a while. If this isn't a reasonable price, what should I offer him? Also, is there anything in specific that I should look for to check for weak spots? Sorry, I really hate asking this question on here, as I know it's one of those annoying posts that you don't want to answer, but I'm just trying to keep from getting screwed, like I have been in the past. Thanks for the help.

Yorktown is about 50 miles south of San Antonio. Your story is a bit discouraging, but I will not want them to bore the block out or modify the crank in any way, so hopefully as long as it's all stock they won't be able to screw it up. If I get a new bottom end with them, it will cost me a bit over $400. If I do it myself it will cost: $250 to bore the block $300-400 for pistons plus an additional $500-800 for the crank, rings, rods, etc. So it sounds like if I do it through City Motors, it would save me a ton of money, but then again, if the engine's just going to crop out on me in a few months, then it won't be worth it. Damn, I just don't know what to do. Thanks for the info, though.

Pickin' on ZXs, huh Tim? If for some mysterious reason you ever come down to south Texas in your Monguuz, I'll be waitin' for ya Just look for this: It goes so fast it stripped the paint down to primer