zeeboost

Boy you pretty much hit the nail on the head with carburetor #2. I feel foolish for not checking this before, but the gasket that the PO installed between the primary metering block and carb body was wrong, and didn't have a seal for the accelerator pump passage, therefore very little made it into the shooter nozzle area, and most of it dumped underneath the powervalve. I really appreciate your help with finding and sending me these references. There are some very good cutouts and diagrams in here...bookmarked for sure. I replaced the needles and seat and new pieces, and the float can pivot freely. I tried to do as thorough of a cleanup as I could with the carb...before I even began rebuilding it, I disassembled the carb and let each individual section soak for a couple days in seafoam / b12. A little progress, although it's still smokey rich (not as much though): I was finally able to replace the secondary plate set screw with a different one that I could actually adjust. So I opened them up a little, which allowed me to close the primary plate much more to the point that my idle transition slot looked like a square, rather than a looooong rectangle. I set it to about .025" and adjusted the primaries from there to keep my idle. Transition from idle to driving is definately much better. I'll hookup the wideband soon and start logging some AFRs so you can see concrete data versus a vague description. Thanks for the help so far, and I'll keep this thread updated.

I appreciate the links, but they cover the fundamentals of tuning a properly functioning carburetor...and IMO you really can't start tuning a carburetor until it's acting properly. The primary jets are 64, the powervalve is a new 3.5", new needles and seat, float levels at the very bottom of the sight plug hole, 21* of initial timing, running hotter spark plugs (autolite 3926 with .045" gap), choke has been removed and STILL it idles and drives very rich, leaving a smokey haze everywhere. When I'm purposely leaning out one circuit after another in an attempt to find the problem circuit, and the engine still runs pig rich, this indicates there's a problem going on, something beyond normal tuning. Cold compression is 155-160 on all 8 cylinders, brand new msd 8mm wires / cap / rotor on msd distributor with msd 6a ignition, which is providing plenty of spark. The only thing that I'm having an issue with is the transition circuit, because I have the primary throttle plate open quite a bit since I can't get the secondary plate to adjust and balance the two out. I didn't measure it, but I'm sure my transition slot is exposed at least .050" or more. I'll be messing with that part tomorrow to see if I can get something rigged up for testing purposes. Although I didn't see anything with the smoke machine hooked up, I'll probably replace the intake gaskets anyways for good measure since my idle vacuum is really poor...along with adjusting the valves. But seriously as I'm looking at dropping another $100 on a baseplate when I know there's a very small chance that it's actually the root of the problem, it's pretty tempting to just buy another new carburetor and not have to deal with this bs so I can move forward to the tuning...plus I can get annular boosters instead. The fact though that I've already dropped at least $150-$200 in parts on this 670 and it still doesn't run worth a crap, I'm having a hard time throwing in the towel. I'll double check this tomorrow, but I'm trying to figure out how the base plate gasket would be responsible. If I remove the accelerator pump and put compressed air into the little passage hole that it squirts fuel through, I can feel air coming from each shooter nozzle. However when fuel is added to the equation, it will fill up the body that the shooter nozzle sits in, but instead of squirting out the shooter and squirts out the hole (the one pointed out in the first post) in the bottom of the carb...almost like the check valve under the shooter isn't doing its job. The valve looks fine, but I'm unable to access or even see what it seats up against, so I can't tell if there's a bad seal / debris / etc that's keeping it from seating properly. I was hoping someone had experience with this issue before.

I really tried searching and reading the archives to figure this problem out, but I swear I'm about to heave this carburetor into my neighbor's yard. I can't for the life of me pinpoint what's causing it to act up. Small backstory: 8 years ago I purchased a brand new holley 670 street avenger for my 350 (.030, victor jr, holley systemax heads, 9:1 cr, 292hr comp cam). With a little bit of tweaking the engine ran great, a little rich but I was still getting 26 mpg on the highway so no complaints. In 2006 I dropped the car off at a bodyshop; 5 years later I pull it out of the bodyshop incomplete because i was tired of their bs excuses and neglect, and I finally had time to mess with the car again. So for the last few months I've been slowly getting it closer to being on the road again. I picked up a trick kit and used it to rebuild the 670, but it still runs ridiculously rich...like teary-eyed idle rich. If I just drive it doesn the block, it leaves a haze of unburnt fuel. I've torn the carb back apart several times and blew compressed air through every passage, as well as carb cleaner. Everything seems to check out fine, here are my issues of concern: 1) throttle plate bushing has some play in it, enough that when I hook a smoke machine to the carburetor, smoke comes out of it, indicating a small vacuum leak. So I plan on picking up another base plate for the carb, but I doubt that's where my problems are coming from. 2) I have a low vacuum source (5-6") most likely from having too much cam for the engine / compression ratio, but I had the same cam in it before I dropped it off at the bodyshop and like I said, the carb performed just fine with it. I'm wondering if the low vacuum source is causing me to have to open the primary throttle blades too far that it draws in too much fuel. I tried tweaking with the secondary throttle blades but that was a disaster...I just figured I'd try again with the new baseplate. My low profile air filter was interfering with the choke linkage, so the entire choke assembly / plate is removed...don't really need it in texas anyways. I've installed a 3.5 powervalve to make sure it isn't messing with me on the idle circuit, and just for kicks I installed 64 primaries but it still ran stupid rich. Also have another problem with a different carb: So a week ago I picked up a holley 750 4160 off craigslist that was supposed to be a "bolt on and go" carburetor. Lol, well it hydrolocked my engine by dumping in waaay too much fuel, gas literally poured out of cylinders 2 and 4 when I removed the spark plugs. Today I got to messing with the carb and found a blown power valve and baseplate gasket that needed to be changed. Only other thing that I can't figure out is the accelerator pump shoots out the bottom of the carb. As in, no fuel comes out of the squirter on top, but instead I'm assuming the check valve isn't seating beneath the squirter screw, and the gas is just blowing passed it. I've attached a picture of where the fuel is squirting out underneath the carb. Please help with this, I can't tell you how many hours / days I've spent messing with this stupid carburetor to no avail. It's so painful to know my car is just a carburetor adjustment away from being able to drive it on the road again, I just can't figure out what's wrong with it.

z31 tail lights roughly mocked up using gimp, but with 280zx MSA II bumper: It was one of many tail light options discussed in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96106-looking-for-other-280zx-tail-light-ideas/

ZXr or fiberglass replica, doesn't bother me, as long as it doesn't have the cutout for the windshield wiper. From what I've read, there used to be a larger design than the one that's available now on zcarparts.com, and I'd actually prefer that one if someone has one collecting dust somewhere. The bigger the better

You are amazing, sir. PMd

As borini pointed out, your t5 is a different setup than the Nissan 5spd trans that I'm running, so it doesn't have the shifter pin I need. Also at this point, I pretty much have all the parts I need through PMs except for the shifter pin. Thank you though for responding to this thread.

As the title states, I'm looking for a 280zx factory cassette deck in well-working condition. Mine is the dolby so I would prefer that one, but if you don't just lemme know what you have. I don't know how interchangeable these are, but mine is out of an '83. I would assume at least the '82-83 decks are the same. - Also looking for a 130mph speedo cluster. I don't know if you need the instrument cluster harness for the conversion, but if you do, I would need that as well. - Need a 280zx interior courtesy lamp cover as well - 5spd shifter pin and clip (holds the shifter into the transmission) - Lastly (for now) I'm looking for a factory driver-side power mirror assembly. It's off an '83 turbo so it's tinted and heated...again, not sure if that makes a difference with interchangeability Thanks

Madhater, if you ever want to trade your analog speedometer (boring) I'll reluctantly exchange it with a totally awesome 80s digital dash out of my '83 280zxt. Chicks love it

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Bump, still need one.

Sent you a PM

I installed a 300zx ECCS setup on my 280zxt, but the MAS that I purchased is way out of spec and makes the Z run awful. I'd prefer to buy one that came off a well-running vehicle, but if you can test it first to make sure it's in spec, that'd be great. If you're not sure how to test it, hit me up and I'll give you the steps. (It's just taken from the FSM) The sooner the better, thanks!

I've been realizing the same thing lately. I just picked up a '93 Rx7 R1 that I plan on swapping in a lt1/t56 setup, and since this is the first non-Z I've ever purchased, I never really ventured out to other car forums for information and research. Norotors.com is the closest thing I've been able to find, but is mediocre at best compared to this site...it clearly showed me how spoiled hybridz has made me.

How about them gas fumes?

Thanks, I'll be sure to post some newer pictures up when the body is finished. Hopefully it will be back from the body shop by the end of the summer.

I have some other pics on a camera that I can't find the usb for, so unfortunately those are the most recent pictures I have as of now. Hood is the front bonnet that was offered by arizonazcars several years ago. The hood has the stock appearance for now, but I purchased a cowl hood that I'm having molded into it. It's the '75 project that's in my sig.

Best of both worlds: blacked out and high visibility.

I've actually always liked scoops that were painted black. Pictures: Silver one is of my current s130 project. Don't know if you can see it, but there's actually a headlight cover on it, with no weatherstipping, and headlight buckets are painted black. Try to ignore the body dust/gunk running down. Then the red one is from '07 (sorry, bad pictures) of a red s130 I had. Second picture shows more of a side profile of the painted scoop...which I think looks great.

Nvmnd, took forever but FOUND IT! http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?t=224101

The thread basically started as a link to a build in the middle east I believe, but it was supposed to be documenting a reputable "tuner" that was modifying some import...I think maybe a mitsubishi eclipse but I could be wrong. All I remember about the car is it was light yellow / light blue with overspray everywhere and everything painted...brake lines, wire looms, etc. The whole car was pretty much an example of what not to do to your car, but I can't seem to find it anywhere. If you remember please post a link! Thanks

I bought my mystery flares off eBay several years ago, but from what info I've gathered since then, I think those are the same I'm running: See also:

Too many variables to give you an accurate estimate, but my 280zx with a mild 355 (maybe 400 flywheel hp) and t56 would see 25-26mpg on the highway...and that was with afrs in the 15s. I could've leaned out the mixture for 16s to get even better mileage.

I made this writeup for r180 to r200 swap a few years ago. It should still apply to your situation: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/57879-s130-r180-to-r200-swap-guide/page__p__528579__hl__%2Br200+%2Br180__fromsearch__1#entry528579

First two pics are of one I sold a couple years ago - it was repainted using the orignal blue (904 I think), but with just a little more blue added to the mix. 3rd is of one I gave my brother, it's been painted the ford blue you see on 2007 ranger, focus, etc.