zeeboost

I'm assuming all the timing tabs are the same, but if not, this is for a '77 280z. I just need the igntion timing tab that bolts to the timing cover. Thanks

Every number I tried calling for Legendary Cars Inc was disconnected. nullbound - Would you be able to take measurements of the actual cowl portion of the hood, then that way I can search through summit, jegs, etc for a universal one to be bonded? I'm guessing all I need is length, width, and height. I would really appreciate it.

THANK YOU!!! I'll see if I can find any info on it.

I already have clear lenses ready to install, so I only need the housings with bulb socket and wiring. Don't care how rough they are, as long as the housings are intact without cracks and functional. Thanks

bump I got sidetracked with the project (as usual) but am back on it. Really need to find more info on this cowl hood. Anyone?

I'd rock it - looks good on that one.

Man those are beautiful. Hurry up with the production, I want to see mine in person now!

I doubt Dave at Arizonazcar has any fiberglass left. You could buy it here though: http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd1751867/_IMSA___3_PIECE_TAIL_

I came across this exact same type of deal a few months ago - damage looks almost identical except mine had a dent in the roof area as well. IIRC, my estimate was around $3k-4k in parts, but that included getting all replacement parts from the junkyard (including dash and steering wheel from airbags) and doing the work myself. With other hidden / misc costs, I decided to pass. It was an '07 and he was asking around $5500 with salvage title.

So they take the 2003 pizza delivery guy bombing and make it a comedy...? I like the main actors, but that's pretty tasteless IMO. Oh, and weird b-pillar trim on that s130. In case you don't know what I'm referring to (little graphic): http://www.ebaumsworld.com/video/watch/28950/

You wanna tastefully do side stripes on a Z?

I'm jealous - I came close to buying one a few years ago for like $1800, which I thought was a good deal at the time. How did you find that one?

Thanks for posting this - it motivated me to tear apart the laptop and clean it today. I've owned it for roughly 1.5 years now and have watched the temps keep creeping higher and higher. This morning, GPU temps were 105*C and core temp was around 93*C. As of right now, GPU and core are both 57* C Just like a Z after a tuneup, she runs sooo much better now.

I'm in the same boat as you mista. I'm thinking the best solution would be to just grab a universal one from summit. They have the dimensions on there so you could get an idea of how it would fit the car.

Yeah, I'll bite. I was planning on having custom headers made which probably would've surpassed the $1k mark anyways. Put me down for 1 set at 1 7/8 primaries. Not sure on the vband connectors yet...

True, but I hardly think the Y-pipe alone can be responsible for that much of an increase. I agree completely the cost vs marginal gains argument...however that was also for a stock engine with no modifications. Even something simple such as a head / cam swap should yield better results. I was also inquiring if the 1 7/8" could be had at a cheaper cost if the group buy was switched to those primaries instead (I'm guessing the price was $350 there due to it being an option, instead of the standard production), because like you said an extra $350 is a little hard to swallow for the primary increase. Most people opt for the proper long tube headers to maximize power under WOT, and I would assume that in WOT situations most people shift after 4800rpms. People in this group buy want to purchase these in the interests of more power. Shorties are already available for our cars - if horsepower and optimized WOT performance isn't a priority to them, I'd imagine most people would just stick with what's already on the market and much cheaper than longtubes. Driveability is another factor - unfortunately I could not find any hard, concrete data (again, because the main interest is for WOT application). Reading those debates can get exhausting, huh? I understand that we only have limited data to work with on the lsx builds (SBCs are a different story). And I would agree that 1 3/4" headers wouldn't cause a restriction...but the flow may not be optimized, and there could be more power on tap to take advantage of that. The only data I found supports that. I have no doubt that they have a drag vette with 800rwhp running the smaller primaries. My question is how much more could it have with the larger primaries? I don't expect them to do any testing with it, but it seems pretty likely that with a supercharged lsx, more power could be on tap using 1 7/8". I would've rather heard that the owner "didn't" make any more power with 1 7/8" headers instead of the owner didn't "think" he could make any more power. I've read on the lsx forums that the vette owners are pretty loyal to the 1 3/4" headers and typically defend them under any circumstance. No clue on the reasoning as I have not searched the corvette forums to confirm this. The lsx forums seemed unbiased enough to gather information from there. If most of you are satisfied with the 1 3/4" headers, that's fine. My argument was that since the point of these headers are to maximize power output, since these guys can clearly weld up a 1 7/8" set, and since the only data I've found points to 1 7/8" primaries yielding better results, that if the cost could be equal or at least really close to the 1 3/4" headers then it would be in the best interest of the group buy.

Ouch...that's a pretty penny for an extra 1/8" diameter. What if everyone agreed on 1 7/8" instead...would they still cost an extra $350 or would they just cost the original $825. Reason being, I've read several 1 3/4" vs 1 7/8" debates on the lsx forums. The general consensus is that given a choice between the two, the 7/8" will always be a better choice b/c you don't lose any power and will support current or future mods better than the 3/4. The only dyno graph I could find was where someone changed out his 3/4" for 7/8" and changed his Y-pipe out. It's attached at the bottom, and blue curve is obviously the new setup with the 1 7/8" headers. ALSO, a speed shop took a stock ls1 (with a FAST intake) that did their own dyno comparison between the two header sizes and found that the 1 7/8" was either equal in power or made more than the 1 5/8" in all RPM ranges. Here's what was said: "The very first dyno testing we did compared header primaries & power output from 3000 to 6000rpm. The base engine was completely stock 01 engine with only a Fast intake installed. We dyno tested both the Pacesetter 1 3/4" coated long tubes & the TSP 1 7/8" long tube headers. The goal was to see how the larger primaries would effect power on a basically stock engine. To my suprise the 1 7/8" headers made a considerable amount more power than the 1 3/4" headers! Power output was virtually identical untiL 4800 rpm when the 1 7/8" headers began to outpower the smaller 1 3/4" primaries. The 1 7/8" headers made a peak hp of 414.x hp & 421lb ft while the 1 3/4" headers made 408hp & 419 lb ft of torque. While this isn't a huge difference, it definately shows that even on a basically stock car the larger headers are still a good investment! Power under the 4800rpm point was virtually identical! Infact the 3000 rpm numbers were 209hp 366 tq from the 1 3/4" headers & 209hp 359.9 tq! Both dyno runs were backed up several times & the combos used very similar air fuels & locked in timing at 28 degrees. I thought this was a pretty cool comparision, because the common thought is the 1 7/8" headers is just overkill on anything smaller than stroker setups. This is apparently not the case...." The point I'm getting at is I think it would benefit the HBZ community more to make the run for 1 7/8" headers rather than the 1 3/4". I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes, and I do appreciate that people are taking initiative here to get these done (much better than custom, which is what I was planning on), but if the price would be closer to the 1 3/4" then I think more people would opt for the 7/8".

These are tempting, but from everything I've read it sounds like I should go for the 1 7/8" primaries. Still researching...

edit: I fail at sarcasm :/

Yes, I've been bench testing the pump with a clear liter bottle of fluid, so I can see everything that's going on. The only way I can get it to move fluid normally is by removing the casing off the pump and spinning the shaft with my power drill. If I hook up the electric motor straight to the battery it just spins but doesn't suck anything in, but does slightly when the polarity is reversed.

Too wordy? Confusing? I think I'll be picking up an n/a pump tomorrow just for a temp fix to get this car rolling again, but it would be nice to figure out what's wrong with my turbo pump. Anyone?

Cliffnotes - I can spin the shaft of the fuel pump with my power drill and it works fine. I hook it up to a battery, motor kicks like it's got plenty of juice and sounds healthy, but doesn't suck in any fuel. More detailed version: Okay, in my '83 280zxt that got left out in a field, the gas cap was also off, so I've been trying to clean out all the sediments that accumulated in there. I read that the inlet to the fuel pump has a little screen in it that can get clogged up, so I took the four screws off the cap to check it out and make sure everything is clean. When I put it back together, I haven't been able to get the pump to work at all (worked fine before removal). I'll spare you the details of all the testing that I've done, but here's where I'm at now: I took the outer casing off and hooked the shaft of the motor to my power drill. The top portion was assembled together, just the casing was off. I put a hose on the pump inlet, stuck it in a bottle of water, spun the drill watched it suck the water in just like it was designed to. So I put the casing back on, wired the motor up to the battery (still with the hose in the water) and I got nothing but air bubbles. When I had tried this before, I never saw air bubbles or any other type of movement - this just started happening after I spun it with the drill. So then I reversed the polarity (makes sense, because it looks like it's pushing air, right?) and though the motor made a terrible noise, it sucked water in. The motor would keep dying on me if I left it connected for longer than a couple of seconds with the polarity reversed. After a few seconds it reached the point where it wouldn't suck in any more water. By the way, when I hooked up the pump normally, it would kick to the left, so I'm guessing it spins counter clockwise. I'm pretty sure I was spinning the drill clockwise when I got it to work. This whole time nothing came out of the outlet. So I removed the outlet, wired the pump normally and I had a little bit of water dribbling out, but nothing was being sucked from the bottle. I decided to reverse the polarity again to see what would happen, but this time it sparked pretty bad so I didn't bother with hooking it up backwards again. When examining the outlet, it looks like there's a little check valve in there because I can't see through it. If I blow through it the same direction that the gasoline would flow, no air comes out, so I'm guessing that pressure is required to move the valve up to allow passage for the fuel. If I used a pin to hold the valve up, I can blow through it. Again, this is all assuming there's supposed to be a check valve in there, I really couldn't see what it was, but that's how it acted. I'm on day 2 of messing with this stupid pump and I'm getting nowhere. Can't find any reliable pumps around the area, and don't want to buy some crap from autozone. Plus, I this pump looks and acts like it should work fine, so it's really frustrating me that I can't get it to. If anyone could tell me WHAT THE CRAP IS GOING ON!!!! I would be ever so thankful.

Implants for a woman, no. For a man, yes

I sold this one a couple of months ago, but it's the only one I have interior pics of. Some grant wheel with a 280z shift knob:

Agreed And of course I'll admire beauty when I see it, but something that could pass for a man with implants doesn't tickle my fancy.