tannji

Beautiful!

During the day I run the counter at a Welding supply and equipment company. Took the job because it would expose me to things I want to learn, but do not particularly want to do for a living. I stay current on trends and tech, and get exposed to all the old dogs who know more than I ever will... my customers. Come evening, I get to go home and relax, while taking over much of the grunt-work of a 2+ shift home daycare. In fact, I took the welding job in part because my sanity refused to co-habit until I spent more than 2 hours a day out of the home. Financially, I am relevant... to the extent that if I lost my day job, we would need to take on 2 or 3 kids to replace the lost income. My version of paradise starts at 5:30 in the morning, and ends somewhere between 11:00 at night to 1:00 the next morning. On the bright side... I am able to slowly stockpile parts and tools, and aim to start doing something with them as soon as I drop power to the garage and rewire it. I don't know how I would get through without Phil's work thread posts.... thank god for google.

Ya... don't get me wrong, a steal is a steal, and you can learn on it. If I had a significantly better budget I would already be rockin' the PrecisionTig 225 or a Dynasty. As it is I am waiting on electrical to play with a 220 MIG and a cute little 110 DC TIG. Don't "try out" one of the bigger machines until you finish your project though... = )

No offense... but get the best deal you can on the torch and consumables for the Econotig, play with it on steel, and develop your technique. Find another person looking to get into TIG, and sell them the package at a tidy profit, and get a better Aluminum welder. I just spent about 15 minutes today on Miller's newest TIG, and I kinda like it.... but I really like it's price; a little over $1600 list, meaning we will probably sell it for about $1400+/-. It is 165 Amps, and is a dumbed down Dynasty. We just had an industry show today at which the welder was shown for the first time in the country. Look for it on shelves in the next 3 weeks or so. The Econotig is ok to learn on, most especially when you get a steal deal on it... but you lost me at aluminum.

I had to google it to find a video file that would play for me... Youtube has it. Interesting stuff.

I was doing some reading about studs as well.... and while I hope Grump can elaborate further, I think that an undercut stud has better elasticity, meaning that it can conform to the cyclical stresses that each cylinder's combustion process applies to it with less chance of failure. From what I was reading though, it seems that it is commonly used or suggested in cases where there are studs of varying length, because the shorter studs of the normal un-cut variety will not conform to the stresses in the same manner as the longer ones will. The longer ones allow more stretching of the stud. It also seems that undercut studs should be used in conjunction with dowels or pins, as the thinner shank area of the undercut studs can not handle shear loads as well. That is my understanding of it, now perhaps Grump will shed more light or correct me = )

My God! That was even more cruel than the thrown wasp hive story... I have read it several times today... and I still split seams off of the visuals it gives me. Anyone that decides to adopt a Bobcat in that manner deserves what they get... but the poor fools who decided to steal it might have gotten at least as much as they deserved as well. I am laughing again... good one = )

If any of you are about to buy cylinders, keep this in mind... pricing on cylinders new and used is going up, and not by a little, either. If you come across a deal... take it NOW! My "street" price for new cylinders just increased by about 40%... For instance, an Oxy Acetylene cylinder pair with #3 Acetylene and 125 cubic foot Oxy now goes a little over $600! The price of steel and fuel both is causing this... and it will only get worse. I would religiously shop for a used unit, and sell your flux core welder to a beginner. If you are buying a new regulator, that Hobart (Smith/ITW/Miller) is a decent unit, and that is a great price... but get a receipt, I have been seeing some failures on them lately, especially as packaged with MIG welders. Esab and Profax regulators can be had for $20 to $35 as well... but are fragile.

Excellent post, Tony... thanks

That's the wheel style I was talking about... haven't found one to beat it yet.

I have never had any luck with non-standard aerials. I tried every one I could find back in the day, and they all had horrible reception.They tend to function better as a function of height and length, which is usually at odds with what we might be looking for.

Ants are the ones with formic acid, for the most part. Wasps have a nastier chemical (I might have known the name as a 12 year old Lepidopterist, but new information replaces old, especially as I get older = ) The big thing with wasps is, people tend to get more sensitive to the venom with each new exposure to it. My only exposure came from running over a large nest under a bush with a lawnmower. Not a good day. Felt like someone lit me up with an auto air gun from close range. I have LOTS of exposure to Formic acid, however... I liked to open ant hills and make captive ant farms. The worst part wasn't getting bitten or stung though, it was not being able to sleep because I had this re-occurring nightmare of ants in my bed, meaning I had to get up and sweep the bed out every time I woke up. A nit-picker might see some justice in that, I suppose. = )

Go to a welding supply and get the Walter version. It has more meat, and doesn't load up as much as the 3M pads. Remove paint and primer until you can just see metal through a haze of the paint or primer, then switch to whatever fine abrasive you want to finish with. http://www.industrialtool.com/categories.asp?cat=111

Those 3M pads, or the Walter FX surface pads are probable the best solution... after chem-stripping or on their own. The spongy, flexible construction is to help prevent loading up of the surface with waste... and they don't over scratch your metal if used properly.

No, not OK... but I was under extreme unction, or whatever the ex-hippie, protestant/semi-cult-member version is.... lol. I needed to delay that wasp, and my dog took things like that seriously... never mind the fact that he was far better equipped to deal with it than I was. I was consumed by guilt after the fact, but I was also about 12 years old... just getting into the swing of acting out before I had a chance to think it through. I was also bare-foot... the thought crossed my mind to stomp it like I would have an ant... but it was a brief thing, quickly over-ruled by a few thousand years of flight instinct and a powerful case of buyers remorse.

Worst bite I ever got was the Black Widow variety, while in Colorado. Was cleaning a storeroom at work as a favor to the manager I was turning it over to, and a spider got into my loafer and bit the top of my foot. I ignored it, as it didn't hurt all THAT much... but as the day progressed, so did the pain... up my leg and into the groin. By the afternoon, I was having stomach cramps and it felt like just like someone was kicking me in the "nether delectis", repeatedly. I spent hours in the ER getting morphine and Vicodin shots. I now religiously kill the widows. They are sneaky and bad-tempered, and I don't sleep well around them anymore = ) I also caught a wasp in a butterfly net, as a boy in Texas. These things were iridescent black and about 2 inches long, and the locals called them "Cicada Killers" because they would sting a Cicada (Locust) and then fly off with the thing like Rutan's mother ship. Well, I caught one, then watched in horror as it rapidly chewed it's way through the net....! Just then I remembered that these things were supposedly deadly to people as well as Cicadas... so I sicced my loyal shepherd on it and ran like the wind. The dog did a very respectful and careful sliceNdice and chased me down to collect his due for saving my life. I never tried that again, if you can believe it. I tried to Google it, seems it might be also known as a Tarantula Hawk, for obvious reasons = )

Isn't it just plain sequential that requires a secondary trigger to determine stroke? Meaning you can run multiple coils as wasted spark if there is no compression stroke verifying, as EDIS, DIS and other systems do.

I keep seeing the AC Delco D585 (LS2/truck COP) available for reasonable pricing, especially in sets with brackets and harness. So obviously, this places me in the position of wondering if I can use them in wasted spark with either EDIS or the MSII v3.57. I was going to utilize the existing HEI because it is already there, and the Sequencer isn't..., and then convert to the sequencer at the same time I am re-positioning the motor mounting and deleting the distributor. I have been reading the manuals, updates, and trying to search the MS forums (using "COP" doesn't seem to work in the search there, I have no idea why, but it is frustrating, lol) and I have seen references to using two EDIS coils and one PIP signal, with coils connected to fire paired cylinders in a set-up similar to normal wasted spark. If this is possible, would I have to order the MSII box modified or pre-configured to address this, or is everything specific to doing it external to the ECU? ( based on what I have read, I can see no reason it wouldn't all be external) I just bought a spare 3-row crank puller setup, and I have a new machine shop customer (who really appreciates us at the moment = ) who can machine the inner pulley to act as my trigger wheel. I already have an EDIS8 module, but apparently no VR sensor. I have seen it suggested that the sensor be matched with the module, should I make certain that this is the case when I source a sensor? Thanks in advance... I can't wait to get started on this = )

Jim Cook is selling his 280ZX I believe... I think I saw it for sale on his website. It was pricey though.

There are a lot of inline 4's out there that are all good options... this one is a V4... most of us have seen how small a V6 looks in the S30 bay, this one would fit in a Z's breast pocket, lol.

Don't know if anyone has seen this before, but this would make a very interesting swap into a Z, especially for those wanting to go nuts sealing the nose area and venting through the hood. http://www.weber-motor.com/en/products/mpe-v4/technical-data/index.html Nearly 230 lb-ft in the turbo version... and it is tiny. 265 pounds for the turbo version?!!! I would jump all over one of these... Another quick read: http://www.autofieldguide.com/articles/040604.html Any thoughts?

So... After doing some reading at CNGChat and NGVAmerica... is it legally doable to convert to LPG or similar fuels on our own, or are we required to have a certified installation? I know that the gas cylinder has to be certified, labeled, and follow an inspection schedule. I can probably arrange for a cylinder exchange (fill-up) at work, but I am not so sure I want to get pulled over by a DOT officer. Do any of our "Exempt" vehicles get around this, or just get around the CARB and EPA requirements?

I apologize for the long post in advance, but I am interested, and this information is relevant to some or all: (quoted from CNGChat.com/forums) Converting a gasoline or diesel vehicle to run on natural gas is a $8,000 to $18,000 proposition when done safely and legally. There are tax credits starting at $4,000 to offset this (see #7 below). In the United States the conversion of a vehicle with onboard diagnostics (OBDII) must be performed using an EPA or CARB certified retrofit. This generally means all vehicles less than ten years old or so fall into this requirement. Getting past EPA certification is generally a $40k to $80k root canal per engine family and model year for the Small Volume Manufacturer ("SVM") providing these retrofit solutions. CARB certification for California and 12 other states which have adopted CARB standards is about a $300k process per engine family and model year. The prices in #1 above include at least $2k to $6k in recovery costs for the root canal described in #3. The rest is in expensive high-pressure CNG tanks, regulators, injectors, and of course the installer's shop time. There is no shortage of illegal kits out there which purport to convert anything with four wheels to run on CNG. There is also no shortage of shadetree mechanics willing to throw these dubious kits on your vehicle. While they and you might never be caught, there are many downsides to this including: unqualified mechanics installing poorly engineered / dangerous high-pressure flammable gas systems; messing up the vehicle's fueling system and diagnostics (engine light constantly on & burning up catalysts), fines and penalties; zero tax credits to offset the installation. If you are in California, don't even think about it... CHP impounds vehicles without a valid CARB certificate. CNGchat is a forum for the promotion of safe and legal products. We remove posts and ban users who use this forum to promote illegal and non-certified products (click here for our rules on the matter). There are federal and state tax credits & other incentives to help offset the cost of your legal conversion. Please browse over to the Incentives Forum, especially the "sticky" threads which describe these incentives in detail. Here is the current list of legal conversion systems. http://www.ngvamerica.org/pdfs/marke...ses.NGVs-a.pdf If your vehicle is not on the list please don't ask us why. Many of the illegal kit manufacturers have deep pockets and have certified their systems with the EPA in past years. If you are in contact with these companies please ask them to suck it up and get their systems certified again. NGV America has put together an excellent primer on conversions. Please take a moment to read this FAQ before starting any new discussion threads here. Many of the questions that keep getting posted on this forum are answered in the document. Thanks! http://www.ngvamerica.org/pdfs/FAQs_...ng_to_NGVs.pdf One more, Also from CNGChat: Convert Your Vehicle to Compressed Natural Gas - SAFELY Source - NGVAmerica - CVEF Thursday, 22 May 2008 USA The following bulletin was issued by NGVAmerica and the Clean Vehicle Education Foundation(CVEF). Though aimed at the US market, the safety message is relevant to most other markets as well. As gasoline and diesel prices continue to rise, many people are considering converting their car or light truck to run on compressed natural gas (CNG). CNG is a clean, inexpensive (currently selling for less than half the cost of gasoline) domestic fuel. Best of all, it uses zero imported (or domestic) petroleum. And government rebates are available to help with the cost of conversion and to further lower the cost of CNG fuel. But conversion from gasoline to CNG should not be done by unqualified technicians, using unapproved conversion kits or unsafe high-pressure gas cylinders. The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has rules concerning the manufacture, sale and installation of alternative fuel engine conversion systems. The California Air Resources Board has similar and even more stringent emission rules for conversions in that state. Only EPA and/or CARB-certified conversion systems are permitted to be installed on vehicles. While a variety of non-certified systems are sold on the Internet and/or offered by some automotive shops, EPA has taken the position that installation of these systems is "tampering with a federally approved emission control system", a federal violation punishable by a substantial financial penalty. Installation of non-certified systems can also cause a vehicle to fail emissions inspection. Because of the technical difficulty and the expense of EPA and CARB certification, certified conversions are only available for a limited number of engine families and applicable vehicle models. An up-to-date list of all currently available EPA- and CARB-certified engine retrofit and repower systems is available at NGVAmerica. New Honda Civic GX CNG vehicles, built in the USA, are also available in some states (see Honda). Installation of an engine conversion package and fueling system may be done when the vehicle is first purchased or after it has been in service. EPA and CARB require that converters provide appropriate documentation and training to installers of their systems. Installation by non-qualified installers is illegal and could damage the retrofit equipment or the engine (or both), compromise vehicle performance, or render the vehicle unsafe to operate. No EPA- or CARB-certified engine conversion systems are sold to untrained/unapproved installers. CNG conversions SHOULD NOT be performed by unqualified technicians! Properly installed CNG systems are safe and economical, with the vehicle operating almost exactly like a gasoline vehicle. However CNG systems rely on high-pressure compressed natural gas for fuel, and high-pressure gases require specialized components and technical skills for installation. Conversions should be done according to the National Fire Protection Association's Vehicular Fuel Systems Code (NFPA 52). CNG converters and vehicle owners are reminded that CNG cylinders, often the most expensive component of the fuel system, must carry labels showing they meet the applicable Department of Transportation standard (FMVSS 304) by the symbol "DOT" on the label. The label will show an expiration date, after which the cylinder may not be safely used. Cylinders should also be inspected for safety every three years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first (see www.cleanvehicle.org for more information). Converters and vehicle owners should have documentation that this safety inspection has been done. Detailed answers to "Frequently Asked Questions About Converting Vehicles to Operate on Natural Gas" are available from NGVAmerica.

A lawnmower and a bin lorry... lmao

You both caught important details in my post, lol. I want the ability for higher revs because I do at some point plan on switching to a Toyota four cylinder and turboing it. I suppose that I might just address that when it happens, like using a new Megasquirt with the sequencer and COP, but I wanted to have the ability to do it now... no biggie really. Certainly not an issue with the current intake and heads. I had read somewhere, possibly in one of the Ron Tyler or Braap posts that certain coils were capable of mid to high 7000's... I do in fact plan on initially using the HEI to get it running, but at some point I am getting rid of the 700r4 tranny for some flavor of 5 speed, and when that happens, I want to clean up the engine bay, set up EDIS while the engine is accessible on the engine stand, and rewire the harness in the front clip for cleanliness and maintenance. More to the point, I want to remount the engine about 5 inches closer to the firewall, (goodbye, HEI!) in search of handling that is closer in feel to that of the stock setup... I miss it, and the way it feels now puts me off the whole V8, and on to a nice L4 application. I am kinda peeved about that coil pack not being accurate, because of all the Dodge coil packs, I liked that one best for mounting and routing wires. I think I already have a V8 coilpack for EDIS, might as well use that then = ) Thanks for the input, both of you, and Matt, I expect to damage my savings on your site soon!