tannji

I recently obtained a new Sending Unit from Jdarkme for the 240Z fuel tank resto I have been doing. I noticed immediately that it was not exactly the same sender, but chalked it up to being newer and updated. Upon hooking it up today, it registers bone dry as 1/4 tank of fuel. I was wondering if anyone has input to this before I try field-engineering it mechanically or electronically. I looked it up at MSA and there is apparently a model-year change at late 1974, and the newer part is almost double the price... but I obviously don't know what the difference is. I just spent an hour cussing the car, the tank, and my forgetfulness... (Note: it is MUCH easier to reconnect all hoses before installing tank straps!) I don't particularly want to pull the tank again, so any pertinent info would be welcome = )

After refurbing my 240Z gas tank, I dug into properly wiring and mounting the ghetto set-up of the external fuel pump and filter. I was reasonably certain that a short in the pump power line was responsible for killing the original Camero ECU, and verified that today. The THREE individual power leads attached to the positive pole of the pump had arced to the fuel banjo fitting adjacent to them. Any idea why someone would run a line from the pump to a momentary switch in the cabin? The same person wrapped the banjo bolt with one ring of electrical tape, in an apparent attempt to prevent the short in that location. Moving on.... Since I am not trying to completely correct all the problems this car came with (pulling drive train out this winter for a different swap) I just want to find a cheap pump to replace this dead one. The best deal I found so far is this one on Ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-External-Fuel-Pump-E24-630i-633i-635i-L6-M6_W0QQitemZ330162986103QQihZ014QQcategoryZ33555QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem Would any of the BWM people here know whether or not this is appropriate to TPI injection? (need approximately 25gph and 50psi) Or is anyone aware of a similar pump that would work on the cheap?

I can't believe no one suggested "Flied Lice"... or maybe the "Rice is Right"?

Well, finished tank looks ok.... I am refurbing the gas tank straps right now. I wire wheeled the straps, wiped down the liners, and gave both a coating of aerosol undercoating. Looks pretty good actually, and it might keep them from rusting again. Finished tank: I think the next tank I run into that has sealer will go to a professional... but I now have a pretty fair idea on restoring them otherwise...

I had a bench at a previous job that had adjustable feet AND casters, which I thought was just for leveling... until we had to move it. Empty, the thing had to weigh 300lbs plus, and the feet were practically welded to the floor due to years of spills. (photo chemistry and various cleaners) We realized after after nearly giving ourselves a mass hernia that you raise the feet to drop the table on the casters, move it, and then lower the feet to take the weight off the casters. Ours weighed enough that we had to put a lever under the end while screwing the feet out... All in all it worked well, and I would build one that way if I had to do it again. As mentioned though, I would use the largest practical pneumatic tires you can find. I also wouldn't count on "locking casters" to secure a table from shakes and wiggles... but the adjustable feet will!

Just crawled out of bed here. That woke me up and gave me goosepimples.... again. I so wish F1 had more going on here. My Mother waxes poetic about going to F2 (? I think) races with her Father as a girl. I took the kids to see a 3D Nascar movie at the Imax, I would kill to see a F1 version, shot similarly to that commercial.

There are cleaning wheels for drills and grinders that look like a sponge, but are coated with abrasive. The holes and channels in the "sponge" prevent the pad from loading up at all... and you can get pretty aggressive with them too. The only ones we carry at work are made by Walter, but I am sure there are other sources as well. I like them because they are pretty fast without the risk of ruining a pad to load-up, but don't add much scratch to your metal once you reach it, saving you unnecessary additional time "repairing" once you have the paint removed.

It's an interesting kit... but requires a fair amount of work, even after a decent installation, to make the car look finished. (I owned one back in the 80's, loved it, but never had the means to really finish it) This one on Ebay looks to be in great condition, but is missing the airdam, which BTW, is freaking HUGE! I am watching it as well... but keep the airdam in mind, because both aesthetically and structurally, it has to have that airdam or something similar to finish the front, and to structurally locate the lower fenders. Another area that takes some real thought is how to finish the tail light section on the Z. The best looking solution I ever saw had a Vette tail emulation, which at the time I bagged on... but now have to admit looked sharp and flowed very well. I don't know if I will bid on it, but I certainly hope someone here gets it, I would love to see a well-executed Cali-Z here at HybridZ.

I think it's because the HICAS hardware is Aluminum, weight making the need for the eliminator acceptable. All the eliminator does is remove the steering movement that HICAS adds to the equation.

Honestly, it sounds pretty much like every other LSI-Z video I have heard.... still makes the hairs on the back of my neck lift though = ) Looks and sounds great!

Admins@HybridZ: Thanks a million for all you do! I know that it's not mathematically certain that we will not have our own Copex... but it had never struck me quite so strongly as to why we do not. Certainly feel bad for the publicity MX6.com is getting... I hope they get some legitimate new subscribers out of this = ) May I say they really need a TOOLBox like ours?

Well... I suppose I should hang my head in shame... but since it was hilarious and I managed to avoid the majority of our 12 year educational system and am largely "self-educated" I laughed instead. Wouldn't mind seeing a "Talking to Canadians" version though... I have spent many hundreds of hours gaming with Canadian friends in my headset.... that would be similarly amusing = )

Does it have an intact pedal box?

Anyone ever taken their tank to a Professional for the hot tank acid dip? So far I have hit this with a weak muriatic bath, acetone bath, stronger muriatic, 1 gallon of stripper, 1 gallon of muriatic, 1 quart of phosphoric acid, with flushing in between, and the last 2 flushes at the car wash! I am running out of containers for the effluent, and my patience is waning. I have all the rubber sealant out except for remnants in the seam around the circumference of the tank, and around the various fittings. Two of the vapor or return lines were completely sealed by the rubber treatment, and I have no idea how the intake line to the pump wasn't as well. Perhaps when this fellow figured out he was screwing up his lines he quit in the middle of the treatment? I am going to hit it again tomorrow with some more stripper and acid, and then call it done. I cant see myself putting more rubber in there... it is very difficult to get out of the fittings, and i can't see a practical way to keep it out of the lines without leaving a weak point where the lining could start failing. Has anyone just used phosphoric to kill the rust and left it at that? Or is there another treatment to seal the tank that isn't as troublesome as the rubberized sealer? Galvanization perhaps? I think the rust comes from water in the tank... couldn't this be addressed by an occasional draining and gas treatment? I would have taken more pics, but I did not want to expose my lens and its coating to the vapors coming out the tank.... it was pretty bad. Some of the rubber fell out in one inch thick chunks! I honestly think I would rather cut the tank open than do this again, lol.

Funny you should mention non-cut TPI harnesses = ) I will have a 350 TPI with intact harness and 700r4 tranny looking for a home in a few months. In my experience... if you are looking for decent gas mileage, good torque from low RPMs, and do not intend to end up with 350+ HP or a high-revving engine, its a great combo. I averaged about 26 MPG across 2000 miles when I got the car, and I would estimate about 17 MPG in city driving. What I was NOT keen on was driving an auto and not being able to play with higher revs. It runs out of breath at around 4800 RPM. It is very civilized in a Z though, my GF was all too fond of grabbing my car for suspicious and gratuitous "grocery trips"...

LOL< I was just going to post this question, because I don't remember seeing it here... thanks again.

So... A conservative strength Muriatic Acid bath did nothing to the messy sealant in the tank. Did manage some good shots of my mess tho... Sorry about the size... still learning the options on my new hosting site... So, back to the acid bath. I reckon 3x stronger on the muriatic acid might creep under the edges of the sealant. I am having second thoughts on using a rubberizing sealer though. It looks to be difficult to get the coat even, and how do you get it on all parts of the baffle? short of playing rugbee with the tank I don't know.

Well, I decided to take another, better look in the tank tonight, and since I am going to go ahead and replace the sender, I opened up that bulkhead. I saw what appeared to be a film bubbling up from the tank walls, like my alcohol bath had loosened something. WTF?! Looked pretty good the other day through the filler neck... Turns out the genius that wired some stuff on the car must have attempted to seal the tank as well. He apparently poured it in, shook it a couple times, no more... and called it done. You can see the edge of the sealer skin, and the drips and splashes where some managed to spread in spite of his best effort to keep it in a couple of puddles. I am going to pull it out with a hook, and then aggressively use the muriatic and phosphorus... I shudder to think what must be behind the baffle, out of my sight. Anyone have any idea if either of the acids will completely dissolve an older tank liner/sealer? I will post again in a bit, I will even attempt some photos through the filler neck and sender bulkhead... = )

I saw what I would call slightly more than flash rust. I may be modding this tank in the near future, so I will not seal it at this point, but I have muriatic and phosphoric acid on hand, so I will go ahead and treat it and re-flush it.

ROFL!!! Thats where I saw it... couldn't remember where I had seen those for the life of me! Thanks man, that was seriously bugging me = )

I think Turbo6 was talking about BSP (or BSPT) plugs... You tap a hole with the appropriate thread and then screw in a plug. Thats how I would do it as well, just take care and try to prevent any chips from falling back into the coolant system.

I am thinking that there are arguments for circulating coolant both ways, depending on application and observed results in a specific application. I believe I read somewhere that for some applications the most efficient path is for the coolant (either air or fluid) to enter in the cooler region, cooling it to the limits of the temp differential as allowed by flow speed, and then move on to the hotter region, where it will still cool, because of the remaining temp differential. As Tony D points out, apparently reducing the temperature differential between the top and bottom of the block can be as important as maximizing the amount of heat pulled out by the coolant.

LOL! That was brutal... both for the "Niss-an" and for Americans. "Ah, Hell, I've wrecked my Hummer", and TICK, TOCK!" Love that show.

ramps work... but as I said before, I am looking for more real estate, not less. Ramps, especially if I were to use 4 at a time, practically prevent access from the sides of the car, not to mention getting the car on them in the first place. I think that some 1X2 stock mated to something that closely resembles a wheel spacer, with linchpin holes drill to select extension heights would work great. Being as I work in a welding supply house, I could probably entice a scrapyard guy to bring what I need in with him = ) The only concern I have off the top of my head is insuring that the fixtures would bolt to the rear hubs without having the differential clock one side or the other out of its vertical alignment. Perhaps a slotted arrangement on one of the rear stands.

Hmmm.... well, picked the car up in June of 2003, called them yesterday. Not that I shouldn't be able to say "show the signature or get me the part", but its been over 4 years. My fault for storing the the Z and forgetting. Its not like it is earthshaking that I lost $50 or so, but I was a little put off by his attitude.