tannji

Like normal jackstands, these would be adjustable.... and the only person that would be likely to get in while I was under the car doesn't weigh enough to load the suspension = ) I need to check front wheel bearings and possibly rebuild the the calipers anyway, I might just take a rotor to work and fab something up.

I could have sworn I have seen jack stands that have a plate to mount up to your rotors like a wheel does. I just spent all day under the Z chasing a couple of wires, fiddling with the fuel system (or what passes for one in this car) and dropping the fuel tank. With 4 jack stands, I spent a fair amount of the day wanting to be in the same spot as a jack stand. Has anyone seen or heard of these? I googled a bit and came up with a patent for this idea, but no product. Obviously, they wouldn't work in situations where you need the suspension unloaded, but otherwise its seems like a good deal. Not only are the stands out of your way and in a wider support pattern... but the suspension would compensate nicely for my non-level garage floor. I have the Harbor Freight 6-Ton stands... not quite as wide as I would like, but wide enough to work. I don't think that the spinning axis of the wheel is a problem... pushing on the car hard enough to rock the stands there would probably rock the stands the same, if not more when they are used conventionally. Any thoughts?

Well, I have the car up on jack stands finally, and I am about to drop the fuel tank for flushing and inspection. When the car was still on the road the fuel gauge wasn't working and I ordered a sending unit from MSA. I was originally going to pick it up while I was in San Diego, but didn't.... and ended up forgetting about the part when I put the 240Z in storage. No real shocker, but they weren't willing to send it after all this time. They have it on record as charged to my card, and on the hold shelf for me to pick up. They apparently do not have any way to track inventory once it is on the hold shelf... they assume I picked it up because it isn't on the hold shelf any longer. I asked if they follow up on old hold parts with a call or letter, and the guy said they probably did = ) My phone and e-mail haven't changed since then, and they certainly didn't. My fault for forgetting about it for sure, but I was a little put off by the attitude... he didn't care, and wasn't apologetic or concerned. If I want one, its another $45.00 + shipping. Oh well... lesson learned.. again lol. If anyone has one sitting around, I would be interested = ). Any specific recommended treatment for the tank while I have it dropped? I was sort of planning on visually inspecting the effluent and the interior appearance, and if nothing was particularly bad, flushing with alcohol and re-installing.

That is exactly how mine is routed, but with the MAF included. Seems to work fine, but I don't have the room you do there as the owner that installed the TPI didn't utilize the JTR kit or positioning.

Are you selling the kit again? If so, there were a couple of people at the end of that thread wanting to know if it was still available.... and while I initially wrote it off as not quite my cup of tea... it is growing on me. please update us, or PM me as to what the status is... = ) PS... link to the thread:http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113300&page=12

I use Pretect, made by Walter. I wouldnt use it anywhere that it would be difficult to remove, but for areas you can reach, and external areas, it lays a paraffin-like layer down, so it inhibits rust, wont evaporate or rub off. Remove it with a standard solvent. We sell it to the Military and to those who specifiy a need for MIL-Spec.

ROFLCoptors....! Too funny, reminds me of many game forums and voice servers for games I used to play. Some things wont be missed. Thank God for this little oasis.... = )

I came across a Vette show on my recent vacation, thought I would share a few shots for those who lust after or who own Vettes. http://picasaweb.google.com/tannji/LakeOkobojiCorvetteShow Some pretty nice examples, I am particularly fond of the early 50's models, and that 64 GS is pretty mean as well, though it appeared to be a reproduction to my un-informed eye.

You can google everything in your startup list... there are several good sites that will describe and define all your startup listings, and tell you whether or not you should disable or delete them. Between that and the task bar, you should be good to go. The Task Bar programs are particularly bad, because most of them are TSRs. (Terminate and Stay Residents) This means that even though you are not actively using them, they are actively running in the background and consuming both RAM and CPU cycles. Most of these can be removed from the task bar by either right-clicking them for options, and removing them or de-selecting an option usually called "Load on Start-up". You can also remove many of them by using MSCONFIG to remove them from the startup file, and this is actually the better and more reliable way to do it. The items in your startup file can be misleading though, be sure (using Google) that you know what everything is, and whether it is necessary, safe to remove, or even whether or not it is malware. I have seen custom installs of XP run on minuscule amounts of RAM, but an average user with IM clients, Outlook, media players, RSS feeds, Active Desktop, etc running will need more than the recommended 256 to 512MB of RAM. As noted above, cleaning up your Desktop will help as well... mine has no Icons whatsoever... I use hidden toolbars with as few Icons as possible.. the Desktop shows my wallpaper only. Clean everything up and get an additional 512MB RAM and you will have the equivalent of a fresh motor in your computer.

Yeah, with that processor (Pentium4?) You don't have too many options other than memory. As JNJ said, 512MB is marginal, and an indication of that is the fact that your spec sheet says 77MB physical RAM available... which means that as you sat there, XP and what ever you had running at the time was eating up almost all of your ram. I would check to see how many ram slots you have, and if you have 2 with one open, I would just buy 1 stick of 512MB ram. Here is the rub though... Your Ram is old... and systems can be picky about not only what ram they use, but what they will use mixed. You may not be able to find a new stick that will work with the old stick. It may in fact be better to get rid of the old stick all together and buy new. Before you do that, try to find a list online that lists memory that is known to work with no issues with the motherboard in your machine. Odds are that almost any RAM you buy will work just fine, especially if you get rid of your old stick first. But its worth checking on before you invest the time and money. Unless you do any gaming or use programs like Photoshop that are noticeably slower than they should be, 1GB of ram should work very well for your machine. Don't forget to look into what is running in your system tray... that can kill performance as well.

What do you call that? Liquid burbling? I like it even more than the Mustang's ever so carefully engineered resonance. Here it is in a Skyline, short but sweet:

Here are some links with detailed info that may or may not be helpful for Slide Throttles: http://www.rotaryeng.net/intake.html

I don't want to shoot that one down out of hand.... but my repair department wont even take those in on trade, and parts are apparently hard to come by. That being said, it might be worth it.... but I would look into parts availability first, or buy a new Lincoln or Miller with much better support and a solid track record, for around $100 bucks more.

OK, I never even peeked at this thread before... I am not particularly into models of any type unless I built them from scratch, preferable from balsa instead of die-cast plastic. I do own two 1:18 scale 240Z models made by Yat Ming Industries, both were gifts from someone with low confidence in their gifting abilities, and I appreciate them = ) So, I wish I had read this before, I would have voted... the entries were great, nice variety and a lot of work! Anyway, I just got back from a week-long vacation at Lake Okoboji in Northern Iowa. I was in a Casey convenience store asking for directions (Google Maps let me down on the last major turn) when our 12-year said "Hey, look at this!" I know he is at the shelving unit strategically placed and stereotypically stocked to sucker tourists out of their money for crappy items that will be lost or broken before they even get home, so I shoot him my best "In a minute, Al...." that is designed to suggest that 6 hours of driving and moderating back-seat bickering have not left me with a whole lot of interest or generosity. He persisted, so I shrugged and wandered over. He was holding a Glossy, Black, ZGed, amazing-looking little 240Z! The clerk says "Ya, dunno what it is, just put it out yesterday..." and I am exulting at this chance, improbable find, it even has what looks to be a RB20 in it! Fast forward a week, and I now know that in Northern Iowa, Caseys has a very strong presence... even cow towns have one or two of them, and apparently 90% or so of them stock these cool little modified Datsun Z cars! Sorry for the thread-jack.... but the funny thing is, (remember, I hadn't read this thread before) After seeing different paint jobs on the same car I bought, I thought it might be kinda original to repaint mine, or perhaps even modify it a little... maybe some of the people over at the Hybrid might appreciate it. Go figure....

Just thought some might like this 2RZ Celica... Paradise Racing is doing high 7's in the 1/4 now = ) http://www.nyce1s.com/Race%20Videos/Event%20Race%20Videos/Drag%20Race%20Event%20Featured%20Cars/Luis%20Corujo%20Celica%20VS%20Carl%20Stevens%20Nissan%20350Z.wmv

I had my first ride in a Z back in the 80's. My room mate had a 77 about 95% restored, all on a budget with sweat equity, and I loved it. I finally jumped on a deal to pick up my first z about a year later. It was a 79 ZX, with 100K and a saggy suspension. It was cool, and the newest car I had ever owned, but it wasn't, with all apologies to our ZX members, a Z. (to me) I didn't get the feel or thrill from it that I did in his, and I had a hard time keeping up with his sprints on our various capers around Long Island. I did like its drifting ability on wet pavement = ) but thats about it. I sold it with over 200K though, for $400... so it was nothing if not reliable, and bailed me out every time another car failed. About 6 months after finding the ZX, I ran across a 76 that was deemed too out of date for Daddies college girl. Picked that one up for $1200. It quickly became the love of my life and remains my favorite car to this day. I "stole" a fresh, lightly cammed motor from a friend who bought a Z to be cool enough to hang with our little Z crew. He loved my Z because it was so "smooth and quiet".... I gave him $200, he gave me his car for the weekend, and our little crew swapped both motors, new struts, a 411 diff, and a 5 speed tranny. After fighting my new engine for about 8 hours, we replaced o-rings on the injectors, and I had a transformed car. It launched well, it handled well, it chirped 4 gears if I wanted to, and it ate the mid to late 80's camero's and 5.0's regularly. It eventually showed me its rusty nature, and I salvaged body panels from a brown 240Z, and a canary yellow whale tail from the JCR Cali Kit, on the sky blue Datsun body. I had no shame, nor money for a paint job, and I still loved it. If anything, it was MORE of a sleeper, lol. I took that car to 125 or so because of that whale tail..... and I shudder now, don't know how it stayed on the road. It met an untimely end at an intersection where I T-boned a Nissan Stanza because of black ice. I immediately hit the want ads and found a 1970 240Z with a non-JTR 350/Turbo 350 3 speed combo. I slapped the JCR Cali Kit on it, with the BRE spoiler, and spent a year owning Hempstead Turnpike with it. Got to the point where none of the Joeys in dad's camero/5.0/928/944/Vette would play any more. Best Race ever was against a buddies Goat with a BB.... beat him for the first time (very bad day for him) and then hit Reverse with my ratchet shifter at about 60 mph... did a fast 180 and ended up bumper with him, staring into his wide eyes, still doing 50 or so, going backwards. My passenger threw his feet up on the dash, grabbed the window sill, and screamed like a girl. I was too shocked to do anything but act cool, lol. Got a ticket in that car for modified exhaust, and held on to the ticket for a while... it listed the car as a "Porsche".... I had to get out of Z's due to economic shortcomings... and it took me 15 years to get back in the saddle. Now in the process of hybriding my hybrid... losing a TPI 350/700r4 combo for something lighter, smaller, lower, and more rev-able. Oh, current Z is a 1971 240Z... with an indescribable and undesirable metallic rootbear/maroon paint job that would make Earl Schibe cry.

Not quite what I was expecting... Never saw a herd react after the fact like that before. Crazy vid, thanks = )

wow, that made me a little uncomfortable.... brings to mind all the times Mom said not to run with a (insert utensil here) in your hands.

LOL Tony, I had to think about it for a minute to see what you were saying, or cautioning against.... I was not intending to seal the tank with Ni or NiL in it, rather, just flush with Ni until the tank was judged to be clear of fumes. With a little more thought I realized I could probably just use Co2 to purge AND weld. Not optimal, but it is only the back side of the weld, and the front will still be shielded with argon. As far as heating the gas, wouldn't it be as efficient to heat the tank? (my interest being of course that it would be easy,lol) I was thinking about filling it with Co2 and while it was flushing using a small torch to heat the sides. On a side note, I was discussing this at work, and someone's Uncle is apparently a Fuel Tank Welder... meaning that he suits up, enters a large tank of fuel (gas, diesel, etc) and stick-welds with an application specific filler. I understand the technical safety of the process... still not something I would feel comfortable with, lol.

Good to hear! I get gases at cost, and Nitrogen is not too bad, especially considering I wont have to worry about buying or renting cylinders. I don't think I would weld the tank with the Nitrogen still in the tank... Nitrogen tends to contribute to porosity in the weld, not a good thing, especially in a fuel container = ) I think I might flood nitrogen to desiccate, and then flood Argon while welding. Hmm, I wonder if I can use the Nitrogen to get rid of the deadening material in the floorboards while I am at it?

Is a hot gas (exhaust) purge considered to be a safe way to prep a take for cutting and welding? I hear horror stories all the time at work about people damaging and losing body parts welding on various fuel tanks... kinda leary of doing it, but a heat treat to remove moisture makes sense to me.... what about purging with argon or nitrogen while heating the tank? My car sucks air pretty badly on left hand turns, but I had resigned myself to an external surge tank or a fuel cell due to the issues with welding tanks. Any more thoughts on this?

How long has that V12 been in the Z? I used to live near Iliff and Chambers and passed a pretty nasty sounding purple Z near Smoky Hill(?) I tried to flip an U-ie and catch him, but couldn't find him. This would have to have been in 200-01, before I moved to Iowa. LOL, now I am even more pissed! I suppose there could be more than one purple Z there, but I did not really see too many and I lived there almost 10 years.

"heres a decent fairly cheap mig, that will handle almost any car related steel welding" Good machine, although I prefer the Lincoln 180c... But Miller is about to release an affordable Spoolgun for their lower level welders that is nearly the same price as Lincoln's, and will probably be better quality. Looking at the average time it takes to "complete" a project car, I would really suggest a small 220 machine if at all possible. Over the term of your project, considering time, effort, and materials that could be saved with a slightly bigger machine, I think budgeting for it is worthwhile. Most of the machines that are Significantly cheaper are not even in the same realm of performance as a Miller or Lincoln 140, and if you do want the reliability and performance, the small 220s are pretty close in price.

WOW I am probably 15 years or so removed from trying something like that... but I wish I weren't! That was obviously thrilling, but kinda moving as well... combination of the scenery and music perhaps, but I think it goes beyond that... loved the possibilities of the "buggy"... looked nearly like a new, lithe and beautiful life form out there. Just wow.

1971 240Z, supposedly a Cali car. Bought it on Ebay, drove it from San Diego to Iowa. Just starting the process of cleaning and prepping for conversion... Currently running an 87 TPI SBC with 700R4 tranny, R200 rear, and Toyota front brake conversion. Immediate plans are to remove current drive train in favor of something that sits further back, lower, weighs less, and makes nearly twice the hp. My Z's private hero is Blueovalz... emulation is the highest form of something or another = )