Jump to content
HybridZ

Ryanotown22

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    40

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Ryanotown22

  1. Ryanotown22
    Is anyone still making these to sell? I can’t seem to find one to buy.
  2. Ryanotown22
    Anyone have to shave down the caliper fins? I have 15x7 konig rewind and the fin on those calipers are rubbing. I have 1989 Toyota 4Runner v6 calipers nugeon 9701550A (97-01550A) and 9701550B (97-01550B). I have the spacer in from zcardepot for this swap also.
  3. Ryanotown22
    Yeah I will gladly take the file I might be able to find someone nearby
  4. Ryanotown22
    That center vent is exactly what I need. All I have right now is my duct squished into one of the vents coming from my vintage air. Any chance you would want to print another?
  5. Ryanotown22
    I ran power direct from battery to a switch I picked up from the car parts store. Mounted the switch in the center console below the radio. Clean power that way
  6. Ryanotown22
    Does the driveshaft work without any modifications?
  7. Ryanotown22
    I just measured the ohms in my injectors and it came out to about 4.0 so I have low impedance injectors
  8. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh I forgot to ask did you buy resistor style spark plugs? I did as part of this I bought bpr6es-11 supposedly they cut down on electrical interference that might help possibly and it is part of the recommendations in the instructions
  9. Ryanotown22
    With the ez efi system you really need your car in good working order before you install it. The system will not fix issues such as vacuum leaks exhaust leaks, bad grounds and power, bad fuel pressure, leaky injectors and on and on. I would never attempt an install on a car that’s not in good shape. The values the sensors get need to be stable and valid. Also you can have electrical interference that can throw off the system if you run wires parallel with spark plug wires and near ignition coil wires. There was one other thing I did that really helped stabilize my system was my timing on my car was way too advanced and it would not hold a steady idle I backed it down to about 10 degrees btdc. I also went over all my intake and exhaust nuts all my exhaust connections and my a/f bung to make sure the sensor was tight also made sure it didn’t get gunked up from too rich soot on it. Double check all vacuum line connections etc etc. I am not an advocate for the system I think there are a lot of downfalls but on my car it does work and seems to work well. I got about 50-60 miles on it now and haven’t had an issue other than the initial very first setup but once idle was stable everything seemed to be stable. Saying that I would buy the system again because it suits my needs. I am guessing there are cases that the system struggles to self learn with but I would assume that is when there are outside symptoms that it just can’t resolve.
  10. Ryanotown22
    Supposedly stabilized in around 50 miles but if you have bad “learned” values it will not work right and potentially only get worse that’s why I suggested a reset with the wizard. There is a way to totally reset it by doing the wizard 3 times in a row or something but not sure exactly that process. I agree the lack of documentation is not great and there is generally no documentation for something other than a v8. I did a lot of cross referencing with other self learning systems to fully understand this system. I am also not sure of the warranty on this system or how that would work if the ecu stops working since it is bought from a 3rd party. I would assume it’s covered from FAST but I have no registration info or anything other than the serial on the ecu
  11. Ryanotown22
    That is odd but I had that same sort of thing happening at idle but not while driving. What I did to fix my idle surging all over was go through the wizard again and start over. It’s either going through a cycle of adding too much fuel then not enough or too much air then not enough or a combination of both. What is your idle speed set at maybe try 900 rpm just as something to try.
  12. Ryanotown22
    Excuse my ignorance of the mega squirt I haven’t fully researched it but can’t you do fuel system only just like the ez efi? That way you do not need to have the distributor
  13. Ryanotown22
    @tokuzumi it really depends on your goals and expectations. If you want a set it and forget it type system that you have limited control of and are fine with that the ez efi will work. If you want to data log and control every little input into the system you will be let down with ez efi. Also if you go with mega squirt you can control ignition that might be important to you. It also depends on your level of how much you want to learn and have the time to learn to install and configure mega squirt . For the ez efi I could have been up and running in maybe 3-4 hours from the time I opened the box to the time my car was driving. (Add more time if you need a bung welded in your exhaust) Another plus of mega squirt is you have a ton of people using it and actively contributing on forums. With the ez efi there is very very few resources online for the Datsun setup with this thread probably having the most details. I personally have not really had issues aside from a bad temp sensor but that could happen to anyone but I also still am in the learning phase and feel like I need a lot more time driving to give all my feelings but so far it has been a good system. Again my system has stock barbed injectors for a 78 280z. My own personal goal was just to get rid of the old equipment and put in a system that had easily replaceable parts and the ez efi system fit that for me.
  14. Ryanotown22
    Update: new intake air temp sensor fixed my issue I picked up this one it’s cheap but so far it’s very stable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D52RD1J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J7kgFbD074F8E
  15. Ryanotown22
    According to the manual lb/hr data on the screen is “Current total fuel flow rate into the engine. Given in pounds per hour. This can be used to get a rough approximation of current engine power. Horsepower = Fuel Flow (lbs/hr) x 2” so if you see 60 that would be 120hp? I did see it flash 70 for a second so maybe it’s estimating car makes 140hp. based on that explanation I don’t think that data is really meaningful
  16. Ryanotown22
    @ShibohWhere do you see we are pushing 60 at WOT? (Edit I see the lb/hr on my video not sure going to research that. )As a side note my intake air temp sensor broke when I drive the temp moves all over the place at first I thought it was the wiring so I ordered a new connector and pigtail but it wasn’t that. When I shake the sensor it kind of rattles and the temp fluctuates all over the place so I guess I need to order another one. Btw the air temp sensor is from 2002 Camaro if you search for it. Not sure what happened I was just driving and it went crazy on the drive. I followed this video for the TPS to be at .2 .3 but I think all that matters is that it’s above .0
  17. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh Here is a video from this morning going around a corner and up to about 60 sorry for the footage hard to hold and video, something happened to my temp sensor on the drive got to figure that one out but you can see when shifting or low load your AFR is going to be really low numbers that’s normal I had another aem AFR in my car before this and it’s the same thing your are adding a ton of gas into the car without any load it’s going to momentarily be super rich.
  18. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh Mine does not bog under acceleration but I had to have the accel value to negative 6 to get it to stop bogging. I would drive it around if you can . I will get a driving video up. My pvc system is still connected. One thing noticed is your air temp really fluctuates a lot more than mine. That can throw things off a bit. I wonder if your getting electric interference. Are you connected straight to battery positive and negative? Your battery value us a little on the low side is also why I am wondering you can see in my video I am at 14.1 volts at idle. On your warm video it looks really close to what my system is showing other than what I mentioned
  19. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh my need was all the way left until I turned my idle speed screw all the way in and left the IAC control the air. I am including two videos of one at startup and one after warmup let me know if you want to see anything else on video Cold (cold is not really that cold it’s Arizona in the summer yes it’s 116 in my garage) warm
  20. Ryanotown22
    Also make sure you are calibrating it when all the way warmed up and maybe go through the wizard again after it’s already warm
  21. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh yes it is very steady AFR at idle fluctuates less than to maybe 13.5-14.5 when it’s warmed up but usually less than that even. I do not have my BCDD anymore maybe you have an air leak there. My IAC is in the green zone when warmed up. When it’s cold started it’s to the right of the green zone. Is your needle to the left or to the right of the green zone? I think left is too much air and right is too little air but that’s just a guess
  22. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh It runs really good under idle and under load pulls really hard to 5k rpm I am assuming it would keep going but I generally don’t shift further than that. I adjusted my distributor timing I had it way off at about 15 and I moved it back to 5 btdc then I recalibrated it all using the wizard. After that my AFR range is normal although sometimes it drops into the 8 but only momentarily. Normally it will just go down to 11-12. Idles at 13.9 like I programmed it. My injectors are low impedance and I tested them with the ohm meter. I still have to do more driving to have it learn all the way but I have been pretty happy with the system. One thing I know is you need to make sure you have no vacuum and exhaust leaks or that will mess up all your readings and will run bad. If i have fuel trim at anything more than -6 it will not run well at all. During acceleration it almost dies. But if I have it at -6, -7, -8 it runs fine
  23. Ryanotown22
    @Shiboh I got the system installed on my car now it’s a 78 280z I am using stock injectors with aeromotive adjustable FPR and a billet fuel rail with no cold start injector here are my settings they are some differences on what your settings are. base fuel pressure; 40psi injector pressure; 19lb/hr @43psi Fuel trim; -6 for accel setting, zero for cranking. AFR set to 13.9 at idle, 14.0 at cruise and 12.7 at wot idle set to 800 rpm Engine size 171 rev limit 6000 Throttle body “other” Injector count 6 I set my TPS to about .3 volts set Fuel Pressure regulator to 29 with vacuum connected and car at idle I have my idle speed screw all the way closed on the throttle body I think I need to lower my accel value to -8 like you have it because it seems to really be dumping fuel under throttle and my AFR shows about 8.8
  24. Ryanotown22
    Stock is normally low impedance until some of the later 280zxt cars. What injectors did you end up getting from autozone? Do you have the part number
  25. Ryanotown22
    It’s odd that on the fast efi site it says you can’t use low impedence injectors but zcardepot says it works with stock injectors and I have seen YouTube videos that show stock injectors and some that show the larger high impedence injectors. I also emailed zcardepot about the stock and they said it’s due to supply line issues. Can you post the settings you entered in the ez efi so we can look at what is working for you?
×
×
  • Create New...