The Infidel

Dimpled headers, MSD wires and these. Never had an issue.

JCI was the only mount supplier for years and years, they are good to go. There are some new shops making mounts now in the last year, but I havent heard a review on them yet.

If you dont mind, once you have that all buttoned up I'd like to see what you come up with. I am thinking of doing the same thing to get more room to work with.

Is the bottom of your core support cut out, or is the foam sitting ontop of it?

also might have to open up the holes on the flex plate, I had to anyways.

If you can see the millisecond lag imput while in a "competition" car you must have glasses made from the lens from the Hubble.

LOL

Well it can take up to 30 seconds to acquire the satellites on start up, but if you add consistent power to a certain harness it will keep your last know gps position so the acquisition is faster. I didnt wire that feature in because I never jump in my car, fire it up and take off. For responsiveness Id wager sensor or mechanical is more reliable for real time speed input. But we are talking milliseconds here, my eyes cant register the difference. I dont notice any sort of input lag on the SpeedHut. I stab the throttle and the speedo moves, all the way up so far 119mph when I ran out of gearing. Its never jerked or lagged out and works at low speeds, something my mechincal speedo never did. I can change my final gear, rear gear or tire height and not worry about my speedo being off. The only issue I can see the SpeedHut running into is if you live in an area that has extremely poor gps signal. SpeedHuts are good to go.

You can take the barbs out and tap it 3/8 and 1/2 npt and run a plug

Speedhut, it is gps driven.

Either the LS2 or LS3 pan depth is 5 inches vs the batwings 4 3/4 if you wanted to go a different route.

Any reason you are going with the nv3500 over the nv4500, or even a t56?

I put a 5.3 in my Z after I spun a rod bearing in my LS6 couple months back, just to get it back on the road and put around in. Its a tough little motor and I have seriously considered ditching my LQ9 NA build and putting a turbo on the LM7. Look forward to your progress.

I have speedhuts and they are fantasic.

I am not worried about the bolt pattern.

I think the aluminum can handle over 40mph.

Now I think about it there is no real way to check the sensor itself. I'd pull the sensor and clean it, if there are metal shavings stuck to it you are going get no signal.

Speed senor is on the transmission for a t56, make sure the weather pack is in good serviceable condition on the plug since you talked about heavy rains.

Red wire is 12 volts, black would be your ground and white should be signal. Check power and the ground, if that doesnt work check the speed sensor output.

Sent you a pm

Anyone running the Mustang aluminum spare wheels for skinnies on a s30 while drag racing, and do they clear the Toyota calipers?

Looking for a r230 diff cover. Mounting holes for the mustache bar must be 5 1/2 center to center. Thanks.

I still need to notch it for the pumpkin but ill hold off until I remove the old bar, that way I have a referance for the depth. After that I can break out the two part paint and get it all nice and shinny.

Got a replacement piece in the mail the other day, here is my jab at trying to keep this from happening again. I also am thinking about boxing the two uprights that attached to this cross bar for the hell of it.

I used an EFI 280z tank with my swap, I never saw the benefits of using an fbody tank in my car.