The Infidel

Yea, I am.

It snapped while sideways, going into second. Your opinion is correct. Although it has survived for the last ten plus years of abuse like a champ. Alot of quick nitious and all motor passes under its belt, fairly impressed it lasted as long as it did. Only reason I went to the TTT front mount is because the old home front mount was looking a bit beat, that should have been an indacater to change the rear also. I was just going to make a fab and tig one out of stainless but this is really nice, with an excellent price for everything that is included. Even includes swaybar provisions, which I need. Does anyone know what RSB is compatable with this AZC kit? I'd assume thats the green ST bar?

Whoops.

Depends on the set up, I get horrible mpg. But I run a TH400 with 3.54 rear gears and a 24inch tall drag radial for the street and a taller slick for the track.

I would not want to own an engine equiped with opti-spark. Just my opinion.

I got a set of low milage 243s for cheap on TBSS owners website, all the prices there seem to be reasonable compared to Ls1tech and the website moves at a slower pace.

I ran off to get another belt which did not solve the issue, it will have to be sorted out down the road. The current belt/belt wrap with the 8 rib wasnt enough for the new set up. Next time Fosta is out he should get 8's, everything that could go wrong did this weekend. How much boost are you making at 2000rpm? Also sorry Keith for jacking your thread, solid run. Congrats.

What year was the 5.3? At one point GM went to flat tops in both the 4.8 and the 5.3, if you dont have the year of the block you can check the crank part number. You might have the LM7 H/O. Stay away from 706 heads, some of the early ones have a bad casting that cause them to crack and leak coolant. 317s are comparable to 243/799s but with lower cr. If you mill 243s past .030 you need your intake milled to match, any competent shop can do that. I do not know what cr an lq4 and 243s make off the top of my head, but if you have access to a large wrecking yard sell off your lq4 and pick up an lq9. Same displacement but with flat top pistons.

MistaFosta runs a reverse rotation F1r, it was alot of work and it was not a bolt on and go ordeal. You may run into the same issues with a vortech.

I wish I had time to see your car work from the tree, but I was running around helping my buddy with his car. What was your two step set at?

Horsepower isnt a concern, running 9's are. The off idle power is what I remember from ride alongs in a maggie c6 and some roots style viper, and what I am concerned with in my car. Why the 2300 over the 1900?

You should have done the Q45 swap your self, saved some money and bought a new carpet kit.

That is exactly my worry even on low boost. Id hate to have 600hp and run a 12, might as well own a Supra.

Yea, Dan's car is pretty radical from what I saw looking at his old posts. Does your friend have a dyno sheet(s)? Id be curious in looking at the torque numbers.

Looking between Dan's car and the car you did work on they are completely different set ups for the power and drive train compared to my set up. I am going from an N/A LS6/th400 set up to a turbo LM7/th400, but a maggie 1900 crossed my mind. I am curious how well mannered the car is with IRS and how is the traction (or lack there of) on a 8.5 tire? I am on my phone so Ill dig into your thread and look at Dans set up more when I get home.

Such as a Magnuson or Whipple? Ive searched and came across people talking about doing it but no one following through.

$10k war chest? $2700 for a q45 swap? Bought, not built. Got it.

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Road racing might not be your cup of tea.

Thanks but looking for one in the SF Bay Area.

In the SF Bay Area. Thanks.

The hose numbers are posted in this sub forum

You gotta do something about that split loom stuff.... Lol. http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/nylon-mono-braided-sleeving.php