Meph

check your battery voltage with the car off, and then running at idle and 4k. See what the numbers are and that should start you on your way to a diagnosis.

Is it possible to get a stock 240z tach to communicate with my aftermarket ecu? I have a positive 0-5v or 0-12v trigger wire I can connect but Im not sure how it should wire up to the existing gauge. I think there are two versions of tach's aswell, so if you have any ideas im all ears. Thanks

that 4 CFM is probably average (say 25% running time) its continuous is probably like 16 or something huge. Air tools require a lot more than 4 cfm usually. I have a similar compressor and I can barley count on it to power spray guns. Id be weary of it

did you check compression with the new HG to make sure its alright and not leakin? Its possible theres a crack in the head/block i would think

Hey guys, Im look into installing my rear sway bar, I got this one with the car, but Im missing the hangers, some bushing and all instructions. Its green in colour, similar to this setup My setup looks as follows Will I be able to mount it with my current setup? or will it require modification? Are there any write-ups out there? I also have an annoying squeak in the rear end. sounds like its coming from the lower control arm bushings, I read something about a proper assembly order, or it squeaks. Any more info on this? (bushing are all new so im told) Thanks a lot Meph

Just a little info, you CAN clear tremclad (rustolium). I used OMNI MC270, cheap stuff, works great. If your gonna spray it, use lacquer thinner (mixture of acetone + a few other chemicals), its reduces dry time and I had no run with it. Acetone probably works the same too. Wear respirator, chemical kind, they are cheap, get one. If your gonna clear it, go on ebay and get some pearl pigments to mix with the clear!

I had an issue with my 1jz thermostat so I replaced it, maybe you have a similar problem if its old.

I first had a 120v 2 setting peice of ♥♥♥♥, I did a lot of work with it. Sold it for about what a payed a year or two later and picked up a 220v from the discount tool store, best 200 bucks i ever spent. Its flux core but has a amp range from 30 to 110 or so (in 4 steps), 30 amp setting works great for a lot of stuff, sheet metal, pipes, tubes ect. Dont feel like because its a 120 volt its gonna suck, Lincoln makes good stuff (it says its 20A input so it might not be a standard 15 amp plug) but if your looking for a cheap welder you can probably get a 220v from another company for the same price or less, look for used too. I'd be happy welding sheet with anything possessing an amp setting in the 20-30 range.

A+, your making me want to do redo my bodywork and paint for the 4th time

I used laquer thinner and got A LOT better results, much less orange peel, no runs, faster dry. 3-4 parts paint to 1 part laquer thinner. Also, go to the discount auto store and get a 30 dollar resperator (for paint fumes). Its definitly worth it. PM for any other questions, dont wanna jack the thread. maybe i should make a post on how to tremclad a car the right way.

Hey guys, Im gonna start wiring up my datsun soon, I was wondering how the lights are activated for the brakes? Is theres a switch the pedal trips or some kind of circuit the pedal completes when pushed? Thanks

thats looking great, I actually just finished my 3rd paint job of my Datsun in less than 6 months yesterday (its painting is a hobby i guess, and so if bad body work so each time I just had to fix rough areas). I work on the cheap but splurged for some automotive clear coat and its defintly the way to go verses using tremclad clear. $total Legit base coat = $300+ Legit Clear = $115 Legit total = $415 My job Tremclad base = $30 Legit Clear = $115 Pearl Pigment = $30 Total = $175 Results Just tremclad http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3241776/3 Pearl and clear http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3241776/4 p.s. pictures always hide faults, I have some tiger stripe issues on the hood, and top of fenders oh well live and learn, use more light when I spray from now on.

Hey if anyone has a front valance for sale please let me know. Id be willing to trade my current one seen here http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2968/521/32417760031_large.jpg Also looking for a zg style flare Hoping for someone local but will pay for shipping in canada, located in barrie ontario

I replaced the e6k with an e6x and got it fired up second try. Assuming it was the ecu was kaput

That looks great. Welding exhaust is my favorite thing to do, ive been itching to start mine

I fit my 1jz into the Z with out trans tunnel mod and its right up against the firewall, 80% of the engine is behind the struts, I hear this is good for weight distribution. 1 or 2jz are nice it seems, cheaper. Im almost considering a 2jz-ge instead of my 1jz-gte for the sake of simplification and a bit of money in my pocket

Ive been playing with it somemore. Im 95% sure my settings and wiring is correct but, Falling edge, int. reluctor. I zeroed my timing ( tooth offset 11 trigger 66). I can crank the engien over fine, with the plugs out they will spark in the correct order, but when I combine them with the fuel and such in the engine It will just die. as show in my video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q9kA-ZDNum0

Hey Ive been trying to get my 1jz fired up with the e6k. (1jz= 12 tooth crank wheel and home signal on cam, 24 teeth per revolution ect. ) The usual setup for a 1jz is tooth offset 10 and trigger deg 65 ish. To get my engine timing to match the locked in value (10deg)I had to run a tooth offset of 8 and 52 trigger degrees. Any ideas why my settings are so differnt? Ive tryed wiring the cam position sensor in reverse but the timing is way off. When I try to fire up the engine it seems like it wants to go but it will suddenly die, and the ECU shutdowns (laptop reads "Reconnect Haltech") Could this be related to my timing settings? would it be better to run an offset of 7 with a higher trigger degree? Also, whats the best way to calibrate the gain on the triggers? I have mine at liek 7 and 4 to get it to spark the plugs, a lot higher than normal Thanks a bunch Meph

Hey, if anyone have has a nice looking stock or after market front lip/bumper things let me know! flairs too. thanks

sold both ways. U'll beed between 2-3 quarts of paint

yep its Mick's, do you know him? Last time i was in contact with him I was asking for some parts that should have been with the car but went missing, he just broke contact, not a huge deal, i made due without them. I could do a paintjob if you want, no guarentees on it being perfect but with some time it can get pretty close and for a lot less then 2-3k. Let me know if you want to get into details. p.s. is there any build threads or additional info on the car i have?

1 Optional: Get some grey tremclad primer, thin about 1 part thinner to 3.5-4 parts primer, Spray the car, this dosnt have to be a great coat, the primer snads smooth very easy, much easyer than enamel paint. 2: Sand Current paint or primer relativly smooth ( I say this because chances are the paint wont be perfect, or close to it really so going really fine is just a waist right now) 3: Colour Coats, get your compressor (mines a 1.3hp continous with 5 gal tank) get your paint gun (i purchased a small spray gun for the job, with a .8mm nozzel, this ment the paint had to be thinner 1:3 ish.) Set your psi to about 40-60, the small gun let me run higher psi for longer compared to my regular sized gun. Start layering on paint, thin coats, give them about an hour inbetween to get tracky and dry, i did about 4-5 coats. 4: let it dry for a while, like a week in the sun 5: nows the time to fix imperfections, get some big razor blades from the dollar store, find your runs and use the blade the scrape them off flush with the paint. 6: get some wetsand sand paper maybe 400 grit or so (you can go 400, 1000, 2000 grit if you want it really smooth, but again, its cheap paint dont go overboard on yourself) 7: Sand it down but be sure not to eat through the paint, try to get rid of the orange peel texture as much as you can 8: Electric Buffer needed, i got one for about 70 dollars, get some buffing compound as well. Wet te buffing pad, smeer on some polishing compound and get spinning. Its a bit of an art you'll pick up on as you go, it might leave behind a haze, dont go nuts trying to buff it away and eat through the paint. 9: Get some wax, the type you apply with a sponge, cheap turtle stuff is good. Apply liberally on a warm day out of the direct sun, let it haze over then rub it off, it would take the haze from the buffer and leave a glass finish. 10: Enjoy your cheap, but decent paint job. To make this paint work you Need: - to spray it, the roller is a giant PITA. I prefer the 10 minute a coat sprayer method, I once used a 15 dollar electric sprayer and it worked good enough but A LOT of waisted paint everywhere -Wetsand a buff, it will give it an even finish. If you dont do it, it will be shitty. Ive never really tryed the orbital buffer but I think the big honkin rotarty one is the only real way to go

Never seen those colours for sale in stores here. There really isnt the biggest selection when compared to the website. Try Rustolium, same company but the US version, it should work just the same.

Ive done about 5 of these tremclad paintjobs. Thin it, spray it, sand and buff. I havnt wetsanded or buffed the z yet, but things are looking good. Colonial Blue, 1jz Installed awaiting driveshaft

Hello, Ive got my 1jz mounted in the 240z but Id like to try to beef up my custom motor mounts a little more than they currently are. They are basiclly the same design as outlined in the 1/2jz swap thread, but designed a little different. Under Hard acceleration one mount will have to deal with compression forces higher than the other (that may or may not be in tension), with the 1jz turning the crank clockwise Id think the mount on the passanger side would receive the compression stress, can anyone confirm this? I did a little experiment with a drill and I think thats how it goes. Thanks Meph