Meph

1jz?

THeres still plenty of opening to get air from under the car, the density of the air is only going to be effected by temps, so it may be a slight bit hotter but the reduced drag will far out weight that. My indicators are actaulyl from a pulsar

if you can post some more pictures of your mounts, I can give you a rough idea of their strength. The tensile and compression strength of steel is very high, so the geometry of the mounts are more important. If your unsure of your resign theres no harm in going and buying 10 bucks of steel and bulking them up. Maybe add some gussets in corners and triangulate where ever possible. Im curious how the mounts arwe bolted tot he block, it looks like just two bolts?

engines all standalone so engine temp really has no effect on it (its a 1jz). For comparason, when doign this mod, I unknowingly broke my groudn wire, so my fan was completely off for the past week, and highest temps ever got were 200 at a stoplight, driving around it was always 190ish, engine still performs as before

I cant really say how it would perform on the track, but since I installed it, I haven't had temps over 193, so my thermo fan has never turned on. From what I read on here, a 2"x6" opening to the rad is all thats needed, i dont know if this is for ducked application or sealed in general, but im confident my cooling capability is much more efficient now than before. When sealing the rad there was a lot of small gaps that had to covered alwell, the sides of the large sheet running from the bumper to the bottom on the rad, the flat section next to the headlight buckets. I think the easiest way to understand it I read was to imagint he car sitting vertical, you fill the area infront of the rad with water, you would only want the water to drain through the rad and no other way. I know mine is 100% sealed, but id say im 95% there.

Working on my 1jz ignition map, trying to find the settings that are going to maximize 1k-2.5k rpm crusing, user maps are all over the place, for example at 1500 rpm and 16"-hg vacuum, ive seen values as low as 16 deg and some as high as 38deg. Id really like to know what Toyota programmed into the ecu's (im sure they did the R&D to get optimal numbers) or if someones experimented, what spark advance is going to provide the highest MPG/torque. Here's where my map is at now, ive got the Boost timign sorted out fine, id really like to get things done right in light loads though. v If anyones got some input that would be great.

sorry didn't do any testing, based most of the modification off the wind tunnel results, theory and other sticky threads

Here's my end result of about a weeks work, on and off. The goal was to reduce the Cd of the Z without taking away from the classic lines. Ill start with a picture of the car before modification for comparason Pay close attention to the front airdam as thats where most of modification has taken place. Here's a shot of the front end after modification I know the lighting wasnt very good, but overall I feel ive stay true to the styling and not degraded the overall look and feel. Now heres the same shot highlighting the areas of interest Blue- Air flow in, there is a 6" x 6" passage for air to the rad From the bottom up -Disk vents, blocked -Lower Grill block from the airdam to the bumper -Partial upper grill block (will be more visable in other pics) From here we move into the engine bay First off, u see the top of the rad has been sealed to prevent airflow around, on both the sides and top. The upper grill blocks can be seen Below the upper grill block the airflow to the rad has been "sealed" air is directed to the radiator and blocked from entering the engine bay any other way. This will pool up air at speed creating a pocket and sending more air around the contour of the car. Black fiber board can be seen running from the bumper down to the bottom of the rad in this picture here Finally, a partial "Belly pan" had been fitted to the air dam, it runs from the front of the dam to appx 4" past the rad support Thanks guys,

does 105 110 psi not seem like very low compression to start with? my 8.5:1 1jz was 170-180 psi (dry test). For all the effort of pulling the engine apart, maybe gap and install new rings all round? Im no expert on L series at all, what are normal compression numbers?

Yeah looking to improve the 1jz's mileage. but when looking at the windtunnel results the spoilers all seem to to reduce the drag over stock hatch, dont seem to make sense to me

racing aside, my biggest curiosity is if a spoiler will reduce drag over a stock hatch (as the wind tunnel tests seem to suggest). As a stock Z is about as aerodynamic as a parachute, I'm trying to find way to maximize efficiency when simply cursing around. Thanks for the input

Hey guys, Im working on cutting down the drag on my Z, so far Ive made up a partial belly pan extending from the air dam to mid engine and make lower grill block from front bumper hight to air dam. After looking at the wind tunnel results it looks as though a rear spoiler actually reduces drag, but this would seem counter productive as it disrupts airflow before the two streams rejoin. I two hatches, one with a spoiler similar tot he 5" one in the wind tunnel testing, with a less aggressive curve. The second is stock. Im looking to install the one with the least amount of drag, does anyone have any experience or knowledge on the subject? Thank you Meph Incase anyone is gonna start flaming, yes I searched first but didn't got a definitive answer.

if your concerned about the timing, check ti with a timing light. Princess auto has them cheap, work jsut fine.

This is more of a general question, not specific to the L series engines, its actually relivent to a Toyota 1JZ. Im looking for light load ignition vales at 1500 RPM, Ive seen maps that are as low as 16 deg's and soem as advanced as 38, Id really like to know that is truly a good choice to maximize the combustion energy. at 38 deg im sure there flame front is being compressed, maybe not pinging but I can imagine you'd be losing power and effiency, 16 may be too retarted. 1jz specs are 8.5:1 compression, 2.5L, 91 octaine. I guess im hoping someone here has some experience with timing, I spend a lot of time in the 1500 rpm range, and would really like to know how to maximize my gas mileage. IM currently running 29 deg at 1500 rpm and light load, I figure trial and error while averaging injection times is gonna be the only way to tell forsure, some people say best mileage is right before ping, im not too sure bout that. Thanks a lot is anyone can help!

thanks thats exactly what i needed to know.

Tried searching, couldn't even find a picture of the one in question so Ive painted on where it is in this pic (im talking about the stock suspension, i know this isnt a stock pic) its between the bushings, does it hold something in place between the knuckle and control arm, couldn't figure out its purpose.

Hey guys, ive got about 350 miles on the 1jz 240 now and ive noticed the rear passanger tire has started to get inner camber wear. The cars lowered down, dont know how much but low, the drivers rear tire dosnt show any uneven ware so I dont think its a lowering issue. Is there anyway the toe can be misaligned or adjusted in the rear? Any ideas what may be causing this/how to fix or check it? The wear is noticeable from the outer tread to the center of the tire and more. Its quite a more worn than the driver tire and only in 350 miles so what are the possibilities? Id got to an alignment shop but from what I can see the rear isnt even adjustable, could the whole sub frame be at a slight angle if not bolted down precisely? I've -wiggling the tire with it jacked, seemed fine and secure -cranked down the bolts holding the bushings at the end of the control arm -pulled the disk off and cleaned all the mating surfaces Thanks a lot

Got the rims in the deal with the car, they are massive and impossible to get tires for. Im gonna end up having to stretch 225/50/15's over the rear (the ratty 240z that was all over the net is running the same size rim with a a 225/50 so it is possible You did spy my emblem, I take a lot of flak for that, but I refuse to change it out of stubbornness. I dont have a datsun emblem ether way so I figured id show some of my Toyota love on the datsun I have my Holset hx35 install now along with my HKS cam gears. Very sad news on the 1jz front though, when installing turbos a few days ago I forgot to attach my oil return line, i was very busy doing 10 things on the car at once, started it and let it idle while I checked for leaks, well, after dumping ALL the oil onto the garage floor I found one. I herd the engine making a stange noise, I believe it was the oil pump running dry, like a slurping straw in a slushie. noticed the leak and turned the engine off asap, threw a little hissy fit and started assessing the damage. The engine dosnt knock but if you rev it up in neutral at liek 3-4 k you get the can of marbles noise, now i read a ton of stories online of places forgetting to refil the oil after a change and the engine being fine after, some drove 40 miles and were able refil the oil and have a "normal" driving engine, but everyones a little different and I may have gotten unlucky. Ive been leaning out my fuel mixtures and adding ignition timing so I could also be pinging, really hard to tell at that RPM, noises happen fast. It defiantly not constant noise, It will come and go depending on throttle position over 2000 rpm (only free revving, havnt noticed any knocks driving). I got a spare block if its the problem, or ill get a long block, can usually score a deal online for a few hundred. Not the end of the world but a big PITA.

Don't have any weatherstripping, one day I'll track some down I did however tidy everything up with a bit of black paint around the window, dont think I ahve pics of it. I followed the mount making process in the 1jz swap thread, and its running off a Haltech E6X right now, works good but a but lacks some features and tech support is terrible. Holset turbo is int he process of beign installed, really looking forward to seeing how it compares.

Gonna be sweet, cant wait to see it all together

old ones, all that I could find right now, the gt40 is getting replaced with a holset hx35 for now, maybe somethign even smaller later, just looking for response mainly

Epsilon 15" : )

my friend took this one, made it into a wallpaper if anyones interested and a couple more Im replacing the GT40 with a smaller holset, the lag is just too much right now.

Thanks for the help! no more stock mounting points, re-framing the car eliminated them. Im gonna try mounting them off the 2X4 running the underside of the car,like in the pics. It will be low but something else is gonna scrape before it does 8)

I got this swaybar with my z, finally getting around to the install. I tried to mount it in the standard location behind the diff but it overshoots the endlink hold by like 4 inches. Is it designed to mount int he opposite direction? Luickly my frames been reinforced with some 2x4 construction steel and it seems like I can mount the bar in that location with little to no modification, but I dont believe the original body would have had this option. Where does it belong? Thanks a million