Meph

Good first post got some more pics of the 205/60 stretched?

When I need to get the Z up higher I get it jacked and supported on strands as high as possible, then put a 2x4 between the jack and car, and slowly jack it up and adjust the stands up a notch whenever possible. Add a second piece of wood if needed. I jack the rear at the diff.

that would be a mint car to find here. If you have some fabrication skill, a cheap hand held sandblaster/compressor and get it for 1/2 the asking price you might be alright

Did you reinforce your frame rails where you attached your engine mounts? I wonder because when I put my 1JZ in I had added 8 inches of plate on top and a piece of angle iron on the side that attached with the plate as well. Im still worried that It might deform, but maybe I took it a little too far. http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2968/521/32417760010_large.jpg there's a pic before the angle iron was welded underneath. really lovin' the build still, seems like everything's already welded in place just but wanted to suggest adding some plate to the rails to help distribute the loads.

sun pics!

theres 3 prongs, all 3 must be connected to work. one needs 12v, one needs to be on a circuit witha charging light. and one is ground I believe. For mine I wired a small light right on the plug that tapped into the 12v ignition power. You dont want constant 12V on the alt but an ignition 12v source that comes on with the key. I had issues too and all tires has to be connected on mine

where did you pick this one up from? I usually have an eye pealed for 240z's in Ontario.

looks like it may have been laid on a little too heavy, or excessively. When I started painting DIY in my garage I found that I always had the urge to use all the paint in my gun, or cover the car heavy enough on the first few passes to make it a solid colour. I find now that its best to follow the rules and apply a medium-light coat with 50% overlap, and if there was still paint in the gun when the coat was done to just put it away, i think paint often has a pot life of a couple hours, so save it for the next coat in 15 minutes. I think with a base+clear system, you dont need a heavy coat of base paint, just enough to give you full coverage & you can lay down a heavier clear to protect it. The wet sand and buff. Can anyone confirm this?

i thought i was coil binding, but it was actaully the bump stop that i was hitting. I removed the bumpstops int he front and the car drove 100 times nice on the road, I know its not the right way to do it but it helped out a lot. If u need a temp. fix it could help

I think he meant the thought of you selling your car was a funny joke, did you plan to sell this from the start?

i guess you know mine has a 1jz 15x8 and 15x10

bit of wet sanding and polishing and u should have a nice looking paint job!

cant wait to see how it turns out, love the engine choice

3.545 and a Toyota R154, turns 2200 rpm at 100km/h

the winshields stuck down, then the gap around the shield to the frame's filled with some sealant from a caulking tube, shoothed out and painted black, dont own any trim

pictures are fun

i think a bird has started a nest on your battery tray

Few shots of fall, damn you winter and motorfest oh and I fuel up to the tune of 34.5 US MPG this thing rocks

for all the extra work its probably a lto more sensible to upgrade the stock components with readily available parts, and check the toyota l6 forum for engine swap details. 7m's are known for a lot of different issues, im really happy with my 1jz swap

sounds about average, new engine should be around 170+ consider rebuilding below 130. Did you have the throttle wide open during testing?

Thanks, I want to set my toe as well and I figured the TC would have an effect so I decided to adjsut it first.

Hey guys, Diving into another unknown area of suspension, my TC rods. The shell came with Techno Toy TC's installed and I have never put much thought into adjusting them till now. For a general starting point, is it a correct to start with each rod at equal length? and would anyone happen to have a picture roughly showing the amount of threads you would start with? On a side note, what does adjusting the caster/tc rods actuallydo when your driving? thanks!

What was the lowest geared r200 long nose model made. I think the auto turbo 280zx's had 3.03 but what about open diffs that might be a little more common? Ive got a 3.54 thats pretty angry sounding, its about all that i can hear driving around and I'd like to put a new diff in preferably with lower gearing. Any other options out there? (I use to have a link to a page with a lot of differential ratios but its gone missing)