Meph

I can squeeze about 35 MPG out of my 1jz right now, thats on 80km/h roads driving it with fuel economy in mind. My goal is 40 mpg when alls said and done. I hope to get there with more tuning but im already on the edge with my ignition. I have left the spoiler on, and confident Ill be able to get to 40 after some more tuning, new diff (3.54 to 3.03 LSD hopefully) synthetic gear oils, new tires and an alignment.

I have the strut belts on my c pillars but I don't recommend it. There on tehre good and tight but not really ideal. It will function though

1" wheel spacers and this thing would be perfect

pretty low compression numbers, no guarantee the 2j wont have any problems of its own too. I the 1jz-gte in my z is a lot of fun, the NA 2j still gonna make 220hp (in good working order)and thats plenty to get a z moving.

juut noticed your exhaust cam gear is the defect style of HKS that has tooth wear and timing belt eating issues. Incase you did know, looks great

i still think my post will help you out, I covered mineral spirits vs lacquer thiner

if you have the patience, you can make rustomilum look good no matter how its applied, i did 2 fenders for an old car fo mine with rattle cans, wetsanded and buffed it and it looked amazing, perfect finish. If you roll it on, the big disadvantage is that it will take a logn time to cure, maybe less if u use acetone or lacquer thinner to thin. It will also require sanding to get smooth. It dosn't really matter for you apply the paint, i think i may have rolled on my base coat actually. Once its on there, you can wetsand it baby butt smooth and polish.

try my post here for some ideas http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/83073-how-to-paint-with-tremclad-the-right-way/page__p__786868__hl__%2Btremclad+%2Bright+%2Bway__fromsearch__1#entry786868

my goal been 300hp, 30 MPG To get 33mpg I had to drive like I was trying to get 33mpg. A lot of 50MPH cursing, some in town driving, nothing over 55MPH except for a few boost runs. I think 35 MPG is definitely possible with a little tuning and the right driving conditions. My RPM is about 1900RPM at 50MPH and that helps too.

its an electric blue pearl with purpal crystals, you cant see the purple in pictures, only in the light in person.

Hey guys, Not much to update on but Ive been enjoying the car a lot, and need to raise my exhaust up as the car scrapes like mad when its loaded with stuff. After tuning my 1JZ I'm starting to close in on 35MPG, may have already hit it. Im pretty sure I'm around 33MPG right now (yes fuel economy matters to me, I like a challenge) Here's a pic too

hatches and doors can be replaced cheap, check your floors and frame frails, engine bay rails, wheel arches, from the looks of it, it might have big issues

Just installed soem weather stripping the other day, I used sportage for the front and a Suby Legacy for the hatch. The doors have issues closign with the stripping so I had to cut about half of the spongy rubber off the bottom of the sill on both sides to get them to close, probably just a unique issue to my car. Still, compared to no stripping at all its a lot better. The hatch is tight with the legacy stripping. I had to use GOOP on the top corners to get it to seal and keep water from leaking under the stripping. I ran some goop all the way across the top for good measure, no leaks with a hose. the fumes in the cabin were reduced to an unnoticeable amount, very happy with the results!

My Z made it into the top 4 user submitted rides Check out the rides and vote for you favorite, the Cressie is pretty sweet too! http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/08/13/poll-gt-gt-your-favorite-reader-s-ride-so-far.aspx

make sure you check your bump stops vs. strut clearance, I only had about 1/2 " of travel before hitting the stops.

s2000 engine?

I know the idea isnt guaranteed to work, but Im trying to find a solution that I can afford to do with the money availible. If I can pick up a new pair of springs for 40 bucks vs a new set of coils for ~500, bring unemployed right now spending 500-1000 on a set setup isnt possible if I want to eat still. I think what I need to look into is the spring rates of the front vs rear and the length of the coils. I really have next to no experience with suspension tuning so im wrapping my head around it the best I can, I know the theory isnt bullet proof but Im not a real fan of getting called hillbilly for trying to think outside the box. What is the spring rate of the front 5020 springs? 140 lb-in is sticking out in my mined. What i was leaving out of my thought was that spring rate will change if I cut the coil (right?) so if I ran a 165 in the front and cut the coils it would raise the rate further. With a 140 in the rear i would probably though the balance off too much, even with the extra weight. So relocating the perch, finding another suitable spring or installing a coil over setup. I do appreciate the input from everyone, even constructive criticism thanks a lot !

No offence John but no one here has examined my car first hand, if I had followed everyone suggestions without my own input and interpretation I would have substantially decreased my suspension performance past the point it was already at. By listening to everyones input, even though i have not followed them necessarily, has allowed me to fully understand the issue and develop a solution that for now, has worked very successfully. I think the idea of buying springs for another model of car and chopping each one of them would be considered pretty hillbilly at first (280z springs), but someone did it and now its accepted as the norm. I don't think using rear 240z tokico springs (higher spring rate and non progressive, same properties as the 5022's) in the front is any more hillbilly than buying 280z springs and chopping them, the fact that ive added 1-200 lbs over the front wheels would call for a stiffer string vs. standard setups, using rear springs in the front would increase the rate about 12% over whats in there now. This is before the sujbect of availability of parts in my location and costs come into the picture. Hopefully someone can comment on the spring diameter and maybe someone has a pair of rear springs left over from when the upgraded (should be a lot unused springs out there) Im planning to section the struts, install the front socks in the rear and use mr2 socks in the front. I have listened to the input of others and its been very helpful, so thanks everyone. Hopefully this clears up my hillbilly ambitions.

The ride has improved 10 fold after removing the bumpstops in the front, I only bottomed out slighly once on a large sink hole in the road but even that was a lot less severe than even small bumps were before. I think I'll modify the rear stops buy cutting it in half to allow another 3/4 inch of travel till I find a more permanent solution. I think my current plan is to section the rear struts with the current front struts installed in them, and continue to use the current spring. in the front use MR2 struts up front, and find a sutable spring to run. Is the diameter of the tekico spring the same front and rear? Are rear springs taller than the front? What about finding a set of rear springs, they are non progressive and have a little higher spring rate, that would help with the extra weight of the 1z setup and allow me to trim the coils will I get the appropriate ride hight.

i pulled the bump stop on the one strut, it was getting shredded by the strut. the pack of bump stop allows for about 1.5" more travel so maybe ill get lucky and the coils will bind before any physical contact. Test drive tomorrow then I start the hunt for new struts.

I went to check the car today, I think my issue is two part, first being the coil only have roughly 1-2inches of possible travel as they are so closely bound. The second issue I see is the top of the strut housing is very close to the top of the strut, further more, only one the passenger side has bump stop (i think it called a bump stop, it prevents the strut from hitting the perch (i think its called a perch)). When I jump on the door sill I can see the side without a bump stop travel, but the side with will wiggle a bit but dosnt travel like the side without. Logically it would make me think that the main problem is the strut casings are too tall, and secoldly the coils are binidng after an inch or two travel. Is there any free play in the strut that would allow me to cut/weld the top down lower to give more travel? I've seen mr2 struts talked about, would I need to replace the cartridge to lower the strut tube length? would removing the other bump stop be a fair idea to get me some travel on the right strut till I can find a more permanent solution?

i believe that is the coil binding issue with the tokico springs, not idea and im likely facing the same issue

ill snap a photo tomorrow because its really hard to tell without a visual. the coils dont seem progressive to me, they look like a uniform coil but again, ill post pics tomorrow . the ride is so stiff to start with i really wouldnt mind going a little softer coil

im thinking the coil are probably binding at thats whats giving the god awful shock to the chassis. The shocks are tokico as well, likely the most basic because there's no adjustment to them. whats the differience between the 5022 and 5020?

Hey guys I've been neglectign to drive my datsun a lot because the drive quality is so terrible. When Im driving its like a mine field of bumps and pot holes that has be driving all over the roda to avoil small blips in the road. When I do hit something I cant avoild, it feels like im driving over a curb, a jarring jolt that makes me feel like im gonna bend my frame in half one day soon. By setup is tokico 5020 springs (not sure of the drop really), bump steer spacers, tochno toy tension rods. When the car sits the front coils arnt locked but theres not much room between each coil and the large suspension technique sway bars (not sur eof the size but they have some gurth) Theres a 1jz in the engine bay, so 100 lbs or so over the l24 Am I doomed to have this terrible driving experience? I was hoping some softer springs might help or maybe I need to adjust my tension rods ? I got this setup when i bought the shell, Im not looking to make a track machine, but I want soemthing that more cooperative to drive. any suggestion? Thanks a lot!