Meph

my obx was 15 thou undersized and torqued in the carrier / loaded the pinion = runined diff. Check it to your old one before installing with same shims

Rim specs on that? First time I've ever seen louvers and loved them!

That looks mean!

not a bad first attempt! First time is just learning process, especially with metallic or pearl paint.

That final fabrication looks A+. I really like how the mount that attaches to the cover and two posts on the diff was done. should keep the diff very stable. Idon't know if it's been mentioned already, but mounting location for the front four bolts can have issues with strength and breaking/ ripping away from the unibody. Have you taken any steps to reinforce the area? At very least make sure you use Loctite on the bolts. I remember reading one post where somebody that broken off but having Loctite on the bolts Save it from failing completely (nuts broke away from their welds)

Those are the best problems!

I was the one who welded the axle splines to engage the VLSD. I bet it would have worked, but I ended up buying a OBX Helical diff for 350, and just cut the welded section off my axle to run it stock. Never did try it on the road.

Thank you! Its not solid,it will use Some poly bushings. The stock mount is gonna cost me 95 dollars here in Canada. My new mount will be free:) and fun to make. Sorry for the typo.

Hey guys, Ive been working on designing a front diff mount but im missing one really crucial dimension, the distance from the bottom of the diff mounting holes, to the top cross member (top of the mount to the bottom surface that contacts the crossmember). If there's anyone out there who had a solid diff mount laying around they could measure (or a good condition stock one) or maybe a blue print drawing of the solid mount Id really appreciate it.

Thanks MJ, the 12 bolt uses the same aftermarket shim kit as the 8.8 I believe.

Hey guys, Ive spent a couple days trying to find the answer to this. I'm looking to re-shim my r200 after the OBX install and would really like to know what kit works best. The 200's Carrier race is 3.35", a ford 8.8 uses 2.995" shims, and Dana 44 has 3.265" bearing races. I assume the 44's shims would be very close to the r200's and the 8.8's is off by .35". I would like to get some that are as close to the r200's as possible. -Has anyone had luck using other diff's shims that are readily available before? -Same with the Pinion shims, if they are needed, has anyone used shims from other diffs for it? This question has been asked a few times on the board but on ones ever had an answer. Thanks for any help!

seized caliper, piston not able to retract = constant drag and heat Complete loss of pedal? Im guessing the brake fluid boiled, forced the fluid out of the line, and when you pushed the pedal, you compressed the air in the system from the boiled fluid, not the fluid itself. If you're interested, I got 4 pot caliper in the mail right now, coming to me. They're replacing my stock calipers. If you'd like to buy my old set at a good price let me know, they are compellingly rust free, recently rebuilt and work perfect. old pads included

1982 280zx rear rotors are the winner! I check mine out, same as the 300zx but 258mm diam. ( I rough measured 254mm so im pretty sure its the one, hub measurement was right on. Thanks a lot for the help.

The odds of a part store in Canada having 1980's brake parts in stock to compare to is something they'd laugh at me for. The 85 maxima rotor looks like it has studs pressed in? Mine is the basic slip on style they held tight by the rim.

Hello, I've been searching google for the past hour trying to find my answer. I'm trying to find which rotor I need to order to replace the ones on my current rear disk conversion. I'm not sure exactly which kit I have, but it looks like 240sx calipers with the CNC'd hangers. 4 bolt. All website just refer to the rotors as 11.4" slotted drilled. Probably to make it difficult for others to piece the kits together themselves. Would the standard rear disk of choice be a 300zx? 1985? NA or T? Anyone with info, I'd really appreciate it.

throttle body is such a simple thing that a cheapo or legit model of the same Diameter will make next to no differience. As for the turbos, do yourself a favor and invest in something half decent. The china turbos work, technically, but Id be very concerned over the quality of the metals, balancing, ect. Pick yourself up a Holset off a dodge diesel for less than a china turbo, and have something that's proven to last a million miles.

I looked into it a little and it seems possible to powder coat fiberglass if you use the correct primer powders. Id be worried about warping at 400 degs though.

On my 1jz, I capped off the coolant lines for the heater block, tight fitting bolt + JB weld works well for a quick fix

after wetsand n buff

LOVE IT, wanna see more!

I used a cheap harbor freight style electric sprayer to do a car once. The spray pattern is huge, and its goes though a lot of paint, but it came out surprisingly well, I'm sure a quality sprayer would be even better.

Just a head up about the Flux welder. I have a 220v I run flux on because I dont have the tank or means to fill it right now. The welder has a low setting (so low that its 100% duty cycle) and its pretty good at not blowing though, though it does happen if you're not careful. I wouldn't hesitate to use it to weld on rockers, though I prefer gas, and with out it, the flux takes patience and practice. You might have to do a series of spot welds to make one large weld, but you do what you gotta do I guess. Good luck

Not to beat a dead horse, but I was using the Organic + P95's when I had the reaction, from what I remember, no company rates Organic Filters for Urethane use. They do work, but when they start to loose efficiency there isn't a way to detect it by odor. Somewhere I remember reading they are good for about 1 hours exposure then its smart to change them out. If you plan to make painting a semi regular activity, just spend the 400 on a supplied air system, not scuba, just a mast with a hose and air pump.

For what it's worth guys, I wouldn't use cartridge filters with urethane, or activated paints. I did for a while, and my last attempt left me coughing and wheezing for about a month. The cartridges work fine with lacquer, non-cat enamel ect. This was using new cartridges. If you do decide to risk it, use p100 organic filters, not the cheap p95 (filtration %) . If you're in a booth with great ventilation out outside , you may be fine but I had a reaction from it. 400 bucks can get you a supplied air respirator, and if you end up cheaping out and gettin sick / potential permanent damage to your lungs, atleast you saved 400 bucks to buy a playstation for all the couch time you be putting In the rest of your life! Don't trust the companies that sell paint direct to the consumers online that you'll be fine with cartridges, they are out there to make $$$$

Urethane is defiantly the way to go if A) You are having someone else do it Want a paintjob to last the lifetime of the car Only reason I recommend lacquer is if A) You have the tools to spray it yourself and want to give it a try Dont mind doing the upkeep (even a ruined section can be fixed in an hour or two) C) Hard to get runs/ orange peel (good for a novice) D) Understand its probably not a "forever" paint job E) It doesn't have isocyanates F) I could through together a good looking car for 100 bucks Urethane is usually more expensive and if you're using it to paint yourself, just invest in a supplied air system. Plus, all the shops here in Canada have had to switch to water based paints. Thats why I recommend a painter on the classifieds to spray urethane for you. You can also consider Cheap enamel paint instead of Lacquer. I have an MR2 I painted with some Rust Paint. 2 Years and 30 Dollars later it still looks great. Good Luck, let us know what you choose