Meph

Hey guys, I was wondering if someone who's worked on a 240Z rack could let me know if there are any internal bushings to keep the rack (#13 in the diagram) tight fitting in the housing (#14 in diagram). Ive been trying to diagnose a shake in my steering wheel, and while I know the tires are probably the main contributing factor, Ive found there is play in the rack, not in and out but vertically. If I extend the rack out in one direction or the other, and reach down though the engine bay and grab the inner tire rod Im able to pull/push it up and down causing a knocking/clunk (it moved maybe 1/16 to 1/8th of an inch up or down at the tie rod so its not all that loose at the rack). My MR2 is known for a very similar issue, caused by a worn internal bushing that causes wheel shake. Is this normal for the Z to have some vertical play or has something come loose/needs replacing? Anyone who can lend a hand would be much appreciated. Thanks, Meph

15x10 rear 15x8 front, both 205/55

if you want flat, google a product called "hot rod flatz". Its probably better than using duplicolour clear coats and less money

I should update this thread, Ive found a few issues with this method of the years. The main one being that clear coat is high build, so by the time you apply pearl coats and then clear coats you end up with a lot of orange peel and think paint. Not too much to handle and fix but I found a way to get better results. A lacquer clear coat will lay down A LOT smoother and dry faster. You can use it to mix your pearls into instead of the urethane, and then shoot urethane ontop of it for protection. I dont have time to get into it too much now, but my latest paint job was duplicolur deep blue metallic (3 quarts, about $75) from their paint shop line up. I got it in a pinch at canadian tire and it covers well, lays down super smooth and have a nice metallic effect. then I coated it with 2 full coats of clear coat that I got for $150, it was something like 7.5L spray able , which would be enough to clear coat almost 4 Z's, it used it on everything, my car, my emblems, rims and its been really nice product. Id really recommend this process to anyone thinkning of painting their car. But research and take appropriate health protection measures. DONT use duplicolour primer or clear coat!! The base is good, but not worth it for the other stuff that doesnt come out well. For primer, if your spray red over red ect, I would skip it in exchange for an extra coat or two of colour. If you have bondo to cover you will need to bite the bullet and get some primer, if you can get some high build lacquer primer get it (I got 2 gallons at a liquidation store for 5 bucks but that was a steal) but I think some cheap enamel primer like tremclad or the discount brand would be fine, thin it with lacquer thinner and give it lots of time (3+ days to dry before shooting the lacquer duplicolor over it ( and sand the primer first too with 400-600). Sorry for the rushed post, but ask question if needed!

Me:P That colour was electric blue pearl with a purple ghost pearl over a navy blue base. Oddly enough I painted it dark blue (deep blue) bsp204, duplicolor stuff with a 2k clear on it, looks awesome for the money. Still reassembling atm.

The engine compression being so low is going to cause some loss is power, my 8.5:1 engine with a rebuild has aroud 180 psi, say you could contribute a 15% loss due to a worn engine (I really have no idea what the % would be but I think 15 is conservative) and an A/F ratio thats so rich is looks like a diesel truck + safe timing you are probably looking at another 20% loss of potential power. I've been working on my maps for a few years now just tweaking the boost injector timings on the street and slowly but surely Im getting there, its an excuse to drive the car every day Im just aiming for 11:1-12:1 a/f in boost, when you have something like 8:1 or 9:1 A/F you loosing a lot of potential efficiency. So 240 x 1.35 = 325WHP = about 375HP crank. seems like a nice number to me

Engine compression test, im guessing that somewhere around 150-170 psi would be ideal for that motor, check the a/f ratios and ignition timing. Make sure the injectors are clean and balanced?

One thing I've used to get stubborn bolts in the past is a hydraulic jack pushing up on a long wrench/rachet/cheater bar. Just be sure the socket has a good hold on the bolt and stay away from the danger zones if the wrench were to slip off the foot of the jack. Good luck

You know you own a Datsun when people stop to comment on how cool it is, while it's broken down off the side of the road.

In Barrie, I stopped by Zfest a couple years ago but wasn't finished my car at the time. I have a Ontariozcar account but dont frequent it. Maybe Ill make it down for the next one.

you should be able to brace it in the correct position with some clever fiberboard or aluminum work

225/50 are the norm, I have 205/55 on my 15x10 because I got a set cheap. they have too much stretch for my liking but not as stupid looking as you'd imagine. Im going to get be getting a pair of 225/50's over the winter hopefully.

My 3 piece rims don't leak....

What tires are you running?

I need new pants.

Legally, the chassis stamped VIN is what really counts in the end. I know here, from my experience working with the Police that we only check dash VIN generally.

I got a set of ZG's from Bangkok, they wernt a perfect fit but they bent to the correct shape after bolting them down. They were something like $100, 2 years later they are still holding up fine.

I don't remember exactly, but if you hook up power and ground plus the accessory power it will turn on and you can query it. You need a dos based laptop to communicate or run dos box, its a little tricky to set up so its hard to tell if you just got the programming of dos box wrong or if its dead. I have a e6k that seemed to be a little finikie to me and reset when I turned the engine over. selling it for 100 is someone wants to try it, it communicates fine I just couldnt get the engine to start.

Hey guys, I need a 280z wheel hub . and an the outer race and bearing with it (smaller of the two bearings, i really only need the race) If you have one and can ship to Ontario, please let me know. Thanks Adam

Thanks VKLR, I ended up running the TC rods at 11.6MM from the base of the joint to the threads. Drives nice this way so I think Ill be fine now.

I have been running a pretty high amount of caster but after installing my new tires with 5% more sidewall and lowering with my new coil over setup I'm running into rubbing issues on the front of the fender. Im able to do my own toe and camber adjustment so was just looking to run stock caster for the time being (or have an idea what position correlates to what degree appx.) I never measured caster just ran the rod at the same length with no pulls or issues. Thanks for the input so far, if I find an answer Ill update the thread for anyone in the future who might need it.