jay260z

hey i think ive seen that car before (I grabed that diff from you a while back), good to see theres some progress on it and hope to see it out soon.

prybar with a large face

If you have another dist. try to use that one as a test. The plugs may be to satirated with fuel to start the engine if you konw the plugs are firing properly. just a thought

Was the TDC on the compression stroke? An easy way to tell if its the compression stroke it to get a buddy, take out the #1 plug, hold your finger over the spark plug hole, have the buddy crank the engine over untill the air in the cylinder pushes your finger off. As soon as your finger is pushed off stop cranking, that should be TDC on the compression stroke. Then take the cap off the distributor and see what contact in the cap the rotor is pointing towards, this should be where the #1 plug wire is on the cap if its not then re-stab the distributor so it is.

The Centerforce flywheel is the correct one for the LT1 t56 onto a pre-86 sbc. You will have to use all clutch parts and starter for the 93-97 LT1 camaro/firebird i.e. slave cylinder, pressure plate, disk, throwout bearing because it is a pull type clutch. Basicly you will need A clutch for a LT1 T56 camaro/firebird The flywheel from Centerforce you listed above A fitting so you can adapt the slave cylinder to a an -3 hose a p/n 604281 Slave cylinder of 3/4" or 7/8" a few differnt people on here like differnt pressures on the pedel. You can convert the clutch to a push type with a special slave cylnder and a few other parts, I do not rememver all that is needed to convert but I know it is possible.

Ive got a r200 3.36 if your intrested

If had to guess im going to say the distributor.

There a standard 3/8 bolt but depending on the bell ousing is how long the blots will need to be. I know on a gm bellhousing for a muncie the bolts below the guide pins are 2 1/4" and the others are 1 1/4" long. Just measure how thick the flange is on the bell housign and add about 3/4" to that and it will give u and idea of how long of bolts to use.

i know what each bulb dose i just didnt konw witch spot each one went into untill now, thanks Pharaohabq.

anybody have any info?

just plug the holes for the heater hoses. I would take the pushrod out for the fuel pump i had a motor that with it left in and had no issues, its just 4 bolts and if will slide right out. Theres no reason to leave parts in the engine if they dont need to be there IMO.

Sorry about the confusion, now i konw for future use.

Tonight i was replacing the bulbs in the rear of my car and i got in a hurry because the sun was almost down and forgot to mark where each one pluged into the housings. I searched my books and the site and cant find where each light goes but i have an idea and i dont think its right. Its a 74 260 and i was just needing to know what section in the housing the tail light, brake, and the turn signal go in the propper spots. thanks

the 4 lug mustangs are 4x4.25 they wont fit, i tried a set on my car with no luck.

Was the bellhousing hitting the pressure plate or flywheel? Engine/trans were aligned well while you tried to mate the two? But assuminig all of you new parts are the correct ones the input shaft seams to be the area for the issue imo Heres a few things to try 1. Take the pressure plate and disk out and try to mate the two back together. 2. If it goes all the way on then put the transmission into any gear then slide a yoke into the back of the trans and try and turn the yoke. 3. Dose it turn, any binding? 4. If it wont turn then you have bind somwhere. Next thing to do is to take the pilot bushing out and do steps 2 & 3 again without the pilot bushing installed, try putting a small piece of clay in the crank to see how much clearance you actualy have.

something stuck in the seat?

Yep it sure is red.

sounds good to me, now just need to wire all the crap together.

Ive got the mallory hyfire vi digital ignitionbox and would like to not mount it under the hood but still have access to the box for adjustments. The cars got a sbc 327, MSD dist and coil. The reason for not mounting it under the hood is mainly dirt/water getting inside causuing damage. The cargo area at the rear of the car was and idea but im not sure if that amount of distance from the distributor and the coil would cause issues. Any ideas of inside the car but closer to the fire wall that wouldnt be a large obstruction to the passenger?

thanks. You sould post more pics of the fan/rad so we can all see how it fits in the car.

With that Griffin radiator what hoses are you using?

you can take it apart and remove the spring inside or grind off the shaft to where it dosent sitck out of the solenoid if you didnt want to power it.

For the reverse problem thers a lock-out solenoid that screwes into the side of the trans on the drivers side just below where the shifter bolts down. You can take it out and grind off the the ram or you can make a plug. heres a pic of the solenoid http://www.darklair.com/images/T56/T56_rear.jpeg

thanks, i dont have the bigger frame rails but ill adapt to the stock ones.

I have thought about doing it that way but i dont want to have the driveline in the wrong angle and have to do it again. Any body got an idea of the the angle or how much offset if need on the trans to the rearend?