jay260z

Dose anyone have the demensions for a t56 from a LT1 cross member in a 260z? Ive searched and found a few write ups with pics witch help a little bit but, none have demensions posted up. JTR never replied to the emails i sent last week so there no help so far either. Thanks

The flywheel is a special flywheel because of the 11" clutch to a 153 tooth flywheel. There are two differnt flywheels that centerforce makes for this setup, a 1-piece or the 2-piece main seal. There can be others who make them but, i just searced on summit racings website and thats what i found. The extra rotating weight helps in stop and go traffic, the alum i have heard in some cars it makes it a little harder to drive in traffic, its up to you if you want better track results or better street manors. The steel will take the heat buildup of stop and go traffic better than the alum will also. Im not sure witch one will last longer but the alum has a steel ring bolted to the face, the other is all steel so it cam probly be surfaced more than the alum if needed to be done.

One of the main reasons others convert to the push type clutch is the ablity to mix and match clutch combos, when you do the pull type (factory LT1) you are limited to only the clutches for the LT1 t56 cars. The factroy LT1 clutch is 11" and ive seen no other diam, just a singel or twin disk. The 168 tooth is about 14 1/4" in diam. and the 153 is a little over 12" in daim. A 168 tooth flywheel will not fit under the factory LT1 beelhousing so you have to use the 153 tooth and a starter for a 153 tooth witch any LT1 camaro/firebird starter works for this. Your centerforce II will not work with the LT1 clutch setup it has to be a pull type clutch in order for it to function. The parts ive bought are; centerforce flywheel pn. 700107 $380, a cheep stock clutch form autoparts store $200, slave cylinder form the auto parts store for $50, russell clutch adaptor fitting pn. 640281 $21, and a pilot bushing pn. ST656KPB $41. I have not got a slave cyl yet and i used a steel flywheel to make it more street friendly over the light weight alum. I talked to a buddy of mine who owns a 96 LT1/t56 firebird and takes it to the track all the time running 11.62 at 117 and has no problem with the stock clutch setup. I kept it simple to prevent headaces and if parts need to be upgraded later on they easily can be by using parts for the same car the t56 come out of.

understand 100%

What is a general peak rpm that will be safe to turn with the rods that are in the enigne. The last thing i want to do is throw a rod and ruin the entire engine. On crowers web side the cam makes power form 2000-6000k and has a red line around 7k, i know that the motor will not run at those exact numbers its just a general range but will the rods be safe to around 6500 if needed?

Ive never messed with solid cams in cars before, how often do the valves need adjustment under weekend street use? What would a good hydralic cam be?

The motor ive got is a sbc 327 with 9.5-1 comp, forged pistons, I beam rods, forged crank, double hump heads, performer rpm manifold, holley 4160 ~600cfm carb, full msd ign. The cam is unknown because he lost the build specs and dosnt recall whats in the engine. It came out of a frieds chevelle after about a year of very light use then he converted the car to a ls1/4l60e to be faster and more reliable on the street. My z is going to be a street/strip car and i am hoping to run in the low-mid 12's if not faster on just the motor. The engine is backed to a tremec t56 out of a lt1 camaro and the rear end ratio is gonig to be a 3.7 or 3.9 ratio once i find one. The engine right now will not run that fast i konw for sure because the 3800lb chevelle ran a 14.48 at 97mph with a th350, 2300 stall, 3.73 posi and no tire spin but ran out of gear before the 1000 foot mark. What cam would you suggest to use to run the lower end of a 12sec pass or faster?

With the stock bellhousing you will have to use a 153 tooth flywheel that will use a 11" LT1 type clutch (Pull Type) witch is stock in all LT1 cars with the T56 trans and the throwout bearing is made into the pressure plate but can be removed in needed. Here is what a LT1 pressure plate looks like, the clutch fork pulls the on the clutch instead of pushing like every other car. http://www.caspeed.com/gallery14/images/mc-assm-800.jpg The pull type pull LT1 clutch will require a special flywheel to use the a LT1 clutch and centerforce is the only company i konw of that makes them. To use the clutch/flywheel setup you have now youll need a new bellhousing to fit it all under and a new slave cylinder setup to convert from a external slave (factory LT1 clutch setup) thats a pull type into a internal slave cylinder that will be a push type. An easy way to compare the push and pull clutches is to look up a factory LT1 camaro clutch/slave cylinder setup to a factory LS1 clutch/slave cylinder setup. You will notice they are totaly differnt.

A standard lt1 flywheel will work on a one piece crank but the centerforce is what you have to use on a two piece crank, the bolt paterns are differnt.

Yes you will need this flywheel http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CTF%2D700107&autoview=sku For the rest you have to use the factory lt1 car clutch setup ie. slave cylinder, pressure plate/disk because the clutch is a pull type clutch and not a push type like all other cars use and will only work with the lt1 style clutch. It is true you have many other choices of clutch and flywheel combos if you convert to the push type clutch but, its a few hundred dollars alone just for the slave cylinder from Mcleod it may be cheaper from another company but i have not called any one else. The tremec is a better transmission hands down, only while using the lt1 bellhousing and slave cylinder witch is externaly mounted on the trans on the drivers side and sits about 1-2 inches from the body so the exhaust will have to be routed around it.

thanks im going to look into that

good news about the tech, the regulator is mounted just in front of the strut tower, if you can see where janaka mounted the ecm for the engine on his car is where the regulator is mounted on mine. Janaka by the looks of your fue line it goes from the regulator across the manifold and a 180 turn into the fuel rail. If you didnt konw alreay the factory fuel rail will mount with the inlet towards the passanger side of the car so the fuel line dosnt have to got across the engine and back the other direction into the rail.

the car is getting a sbc 327/tremc t56 the 3.7 ratio will work but the 3.9 will be the better choice for a strip car because of the gear ratios in the t56. Ive been lookin for the 87-89 300zx non turbo cars but have no luck, all i have been able to find are the 86 and older 300zx cars.

Same basic location as a sbc but in the middle of the block instead of to the side, you may need to take the manifold off to get to it. http://econtent.autozone.com:24991/znetrgs/repair_guide_content/en_us/images//0900c152/80/1c/b1/cc//medium/0900c152801cb1cc.gif

thanks for the tips

thats exactly what i need.

Sounds like a plan to me. How much of a drop base are you using?

are there any special tools that i may need to take with me to make it any easier?

Ill have to do the 1/2 inch spacers to be extra safe

Im going to all the local junk yards in search of a r200 for my 260 2+2. What all do i need to take off of the donor car besides the diff, half shafts and mustache bar? Im in search of a 3.90 ratio in good shape if anyones got a lead on one.

What all are the uses of the 3.36 r200 rear end? I think i may konw where ones at if anyone may need it.

Ive got a sbc mounted with the JTR mounts with a edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold and a holley 4160 what air filter will fit if any under the stock hood? From what I have seen from searching, everyone either has the torker or the performer manifolds and can fit a drop base air cleaner witch is what i want to do. Has anyone got any type air filter setup that will clear the stock hood using a perfromer RPM? thanks

The borla XR1 mufflers have a nice sound at idle but are quiet while you drive and do not drone the only donwside is the price of them.

thanks for the pic

If your not already aware you have to use a clutch for a lt1 camaro/firebird and a 153 tooth flywheel for that transmition. You buy an adaptor kit to convert the clutch setup form a pull type to the standard push type and use a clutch of your likings but, its a few hundred dollars alone for the new coversion slave cylinder. The ls1 t56 is already set up for the push type clutch and will bolt to a sbc.