mistafosta

I'm really not sure what you are doing to break all those rear end parts. I never once had a problem with my r200/moser/z32 cv setup, and I drove the pants off of it to countless 10 second passes. The z32 stuff is WAY beefier than any of the other models though, so that might be why.

Some horrible misinformation here. I've run 10s with the IRS for years, and could have easily done 9s on it, but I opted for the safety of a solid axle once I started moving through to 8s. I'm sure if you take an original 70s IRS and swap fancy new solid axle parts, the car will handle way better, but compared at the same wear level for corners, the solid axle will lose every time. If you want pure straight line performance, and you don't care about corners, go ahead and go solid axle. Go IRS if you want a good mix and you don't plan on doing deep 9s. Get GOOD axles, CVs, and rear end. (I had a snub nose r200 from a q45 with 200k miles, moser axles, and MM adaptors. These parts were on my car for years running 10s with a t56, and now are on The Infidel's car which has done a bunch of 11 second passes and about 10-20k miles) Set up your springs and shocks correctly, and don't overshoot on the hp. (You can easily do it with 450hp and no cage. If you want track legal, its gonna need more power and more weight for the cage) If you want to see a stock IRS running 8s at half throttle, look up Krazy Kelly on youtube. Also watch how many times he has crashed, since the IRS starts to get a little light around 140+. Kelly's car is capable of doing bottom 8s without a problem, and it doesn't have anything crazy in the drivetrain. (I know pretty much every part he runs)

stock truck manifolds of course.

Down and forward here. Still using camaro alternator mount.

Yeah, originally I was going to do mine like yours, but then we figured out we could fit them down low on both sides and still run a full 3.5" exhaust (Also have a 5" dump tube for the track) My only worry is that at the HP I will be running, my block will eventually give up the ghost, and then I don't know if a 6 bolt block is possible with these manifolds...

Absolutely. Its actually easier than when I had headers on the procharged setup. Takes about 10 mins to do a plug swap on the car.

Latest update, got the car together and drove it to and from the track. (Chasing an overheating issue, but I think I have an airbubble somewhere ) Once at the track, we took the hood off to keep it cool enough to make some passes. Best run of a 9.1 @148 so far. Didn't have time to do much with the tune yet, so its pretty dirty and its only at 14psi (Motor is built for 25+) Next time I go it should run mid 8s without batting an eye, and still all on 91 octane + methanol. Unfortunately the only video I got was my slowest and first pass of 9.8. You can hear the miss on the launch in this video. http://youtu.be/a9a3Jx9l1hY

Was the other Z yellow? If so, its not just a SBC lol, that car is a solid 8 second car on a bad day. I know that car well, and yes he is very secretive due to the money racing he does. I run at the same exact track with a 4 link 240z, and anywhere from 650-800hp depending on the month of the year. (Always changing stuff) On radials, I pick up the front end significantly (Almost flipped once) and carry it for about 20ft, while running a 1.31-1.39, OR I blow the tires off since radials are quite finicky. When I run hoosier cheater slicks, the car will do 1.32-1.45 pretty much everytime. What is your setup like? Pinion angle, IC, ect.? Mine is -2degrees with the IC set about a foot in front of my car on the ground. Have you tried putting more rpm in on the launch? I launch around 4000 but I have a lot more tire than you do. (28x10.5w currently) Transbrake helps a lot to get the car to leave well for me as well, but its a learning process obviously.

Ive got a set of these sitting around that I didn't end up needing if anyone wants them at a discount

Normally I would agree on the attachment point but it's not a load bearing attachment. The kit is gusseted in multiple places and he's never had sag issues . I actually made him add the triangulation point which I will not keep under load. It's just to keep the weight pulling on an inward arc. I actually bought new mounts but he decided to use the old ones since it fits well enough and the dump tube will be used for most racing

Some more updates. Turbo stuff will be done tomorrow night, then I have to pull everything off and wrap it, install the turbo cam, and put everything together again... The dowpipe is split, there is a 4" dump that has a vbanded plate on it for track use, and there is a 3.5" that is run all the way to the back of the car through a single muffler. The 3.5" has almost no clearance, so I might massage the mount tower a bit for room.

Sadly, you are probably at the limit of those z31 axles with those types of launches. 2 step and sticky tires are gonna hit quite hard. Its been a long time but I had moser axles with z32 cv joints before, is that still possible with your setup or would it be a huge change?

My buddy started building the headers and fitting the turbo in my car. First, had to move the radiator a bit. Mostly angled it, with a small shift forward as well. Then he started on the manifolds and turbo placement. He should have the hot side and downpipe done tomorrow, and hopefully have the intercooler build and mounted as well soon. He is aiming to finish by wed, which is when I get into town to work on it. (I live in Chicago, car stays in Cali)

For some info, I ran a nitrous SBC setup with 600rwhp on mine without any issues. Slicks, 6 speed and launching off the limiter.

r200 is long gone, I have a 9", which should hold up to around 1600hp.. Infidel has my old differential in his car now

Im 6'2" 240 so I'm no small guy. Lost about 2-3" legroom. Its a tight fit but not too bad. I've driven from san Francisco to reno for hot August nights with it and the space wasn't bad at all. Sunny, I posted this on ls1 tech awhile back, so that's probably why.

It made around 750hp at 13lbs with a D1SC. I got the little D1 up to 15lbs before swapping it out, so I'm guessing 780-800? It was a long painful journey though, since everything I did fought be along the way, and I had no other vehicles to use as a reference or guide. I imagine the turbo setup will be a lot easier hahaha

I have since gone 9.3@147 with a 1.32 60' with the D1SC as well. The car likes to wheelie on radials I found out though: http://vimeo.com/40401224 I changed quite a few things on this car as time progressed, as you all know is bound to happen with project cars. Different fuel pump (Holley Dominator, which I cannot say enough good things about), and many different attempts to eliminate belt slip. I bought an F1R and attempted to turn up the car a few notches, but ran into massive belt slipping issues. I figured out the car would need a 10-12 rib belt setup with a flip drive or a cog, which would end up being a $2000+ investment, and that I would be much better off with a different intercooler setup. So I did the math and figured out that turbo is the way to go. After selling all my blower parts, and buying all the turbo materials, I am making a profit so far. In the end I think the changeover will end up costing me about $1000. I'm going to be using a BW S484 with a billet wheel, and should be making around 1100hp with this setup. (Motor is ready for it) Should be doing mid 8s this year, once I get it back together. I'll take pictures when I get the turbo stuff rolling if you guys want.

cage is pretty much done except for door bars, and the frame is in the car. 4 Link is welded in as well. Once we get shocks/springs we will set the suspension up and start the tin work. I ordered a belt for the blower, and finished the front brake lines. Still have to do a bunch of little stuff under the hood though. Got a belt measured up and it fits perfect. This tensioner setup has a manual and spring tensioner built into it. Pretty snazzy I powdercoated the piping black, I think it cleans up the underhood a bit. Also changed my coil mounting design. The driver side coils were hitting the alternator and there just wasnt a clean way for me to relocate the one coil. I may relocate them somewhere hidden, but for now this is how they will sit. Scott made progress on the cage and tin work as well. The cage will be getting certed next week and the tin should be done as well. Getting close, finally. Heres some updates. Got the car back home from Scotts. They did AMAZING work on the cage, tinwork, and painting the interior. I couldn't be happier. We still have to set up the rear end and do a final weighing of the car before I can go racing. (Though, I may have gotten to do an initial weighing just to see how much the car weighs. Its pretty light ) Also there is a TON of work left to do at home, which I have been doing almost non stop since friday. Back in the garage, getting started. Seats fitted, door bars done. (Done at Scotts) Still have so much to do under the hood. Chased some wiring gremlins, including not one but TWO bad relays on my summit racing LS1 wiring harness. Was not happy about that, but Picnic George hooked me up as always. Fuel tank installed for the last time. (I hope) All this rear end, no more fragged rings and snapped axles for me! Running fuel system, since its a street car I ran check valves so that I don't have to cycle the pump to start the car. To keep my weldon in line I got a fuel pump controller. These new ones are TINY, seems to work well to keep the pump at a quiet level. Speaking of fuel pumps. Also, if anyone is looking for a nice compact prefilter, summit carries these and they are not expensive at all. Carpets are for wussies. I think the bedliner interior really turned out well. Fuel lines, CHECK! Battery cables and extra grounds, CHECK CHECK. Snazzy battery box that Scott built for me. And the obligatory shutoff switch for when I visit the track. I like the HIDs, will help a lot for night driving. The old headlights were tragically bad... Getting closer.... Car has been home about a week. Got it running, and buttoned up almost everything. I still have some track only stuff left to setup but I will do that when I have time/money. All the little bits and pieces I had to use at the end here cost me an arm and a leg. Don't know when I will be able to afford the exhaust system... Yes, I know I have the most wrecked hood ever. I'm gonna try to wetsand it so its presentable until I find a good cowl hood setup for the car. First time testing. This was after 3 hot laps, and no adjustments allowed since the track was about to close (Early )

First, we felt that I didn't quite have the rear end that I wanted in the car. So I started by taking out the old suspension and rear end: Then I cut everything out, so we can start "fresh" While I was working on that, SS&C got to work on the intercooler piping and mounting. We ended up having to lean the radiator forward to clear the intake tube, so they made a nice new upper radiator support beam for me as well. Also they filled in any extra holes. While Scott was working on the cage/rear end I redid some stuff. My suspension up front looked like this: So I figured, I might as well do it right since the rear half of the car is going to be so nice. I bought a 5 lug setup, all new bushings, new trailing arms, and a nicer coil setup. Also some brakes, and a matching front set of Tel-Star rims. This is the result: Next up I wanted to tidy a few things on the blower up. I mocked up the new 8 rib blower pulley, so I could measure belt length, and I figured out where I wanted to put the blow of valve. (Its now welded in, just don't have pictures yet. I think I am going to powdercoat the piping black) I chose that location so that I wouldn't have fitment issues with whichever fan I decided to run. While I was working, Scott and Alex were plugging away on the main hoop. (We had to cut out all the old stuff, and now they are redoing it CORRECTLY. with how opened up the car is, Scott was able to remove the main hoop after tacking it together and getting all the angles perfect. Then he TIG welded it on a welding table to make sure it remained perfect.

I've posted this up on other forums, but I feel like since this IS the lsx forum I frequent, you guys might appreciate it a bit I've owned this car since I was 18 or so, and it has gone through MANY different motor combos. (Turbo i6, and about 6 different SBC setups) This final (Crossing my fingers on that) build is me doing what I ultimately wanted for it all the time, but could never afford to do. As I started, I found a TON of rot on my frame rails up by the engine, so I had to fix that before anything. Had to cut out rotten sections My close friend, Liz, is an amazing welder. She welded up framerail re-enforcement and filled all the holes under my hood from years of small screws being used to mount stuff. After the welding was done, I POR15ed the whole underhood as best I could. I actually conned my girlfriend into doing most of it, hahahahahaha. Before: After: My original plan was to use a buick v6 GN motor that I bought from a car that ran 10.70s at low boost and 3900lb curb weight. Unfortunately when I opened that motor up, I found someone had essentially thrown a grenade in it. Almost every internal hard part was destroyed, crank, pistons, heads, ect ect. When I found out how much it would cost me to build a buick motor with the power I wanted, I realized I needed to scrap the whole idea and pick another powerplant. The "donor" motor At this point I was picking up all the fuel system items, and re-wiring the car with a painless harness. Luckily I had my 10 second corvette to still mess around with so I wasn't too bothered by the set backs I was having. I took my time and made sure the wiring in the dash and for the lighting was absolutely perfect. So I was pretty much at a standstill until I could figure out a motor for this car after getting the wiring done for the most part. At this point, my friend (Infidel on here) came up with the shitty idea of taking the corvette engine and putting it into the datsun, that way I can save myself from spending the next two years building an engine. His car is the orange car I pulled the vette motor, after putting together a stock ls6 to replace it with. Sold my fancy clutch, headers, ect, and returned the car to stock minus my trans/rear and a 160 tstat. Old and new This is after hours of cleaning the motor. It was a dirty pig. Bought a Mike's Ultimate TH400, and some other goodies for the drivetrain Liz made me a nice lil crossmember out of my old one for the car too And in it went! Fit quite nicely as just a long block. Unfortunately there were other fitment issues down the road. I started to do the basics, put the manifold on, wire under the hood (Used a summit harness) and plumb fuel system too I tried to make the wiring as clean as possible, I feel like the pictures don't really do it justice. Next up was the accessories fitting. I got a beautiful bracket from AandA Corvette, and heavily modified a stock alternator bracket from a c5 to fit my car with a mini alternator (hi output from a chevy truck. 105amp I believe) (Blower is reclocked now, obviously) I might lay the radiator down for more clearance to fit an intake to a filter, since this really is a street car despite what people seem to think. After the motor was pretty much done, besides fluids and intake/exhaust design I towed it to Scott's Speed and Custom to build be a custom trunk and get my cage up to certification.

I'm going to start using these mounts for my new turbo setup http://randyellisdesign.com/?wpsc-product=110-diy-caged-bushing-tubular-race-motor-mount-kit-duplicate-2. I've already re-enforced my frame rails with box steel so the welding need for these is no big deal. You can also put solid or poly mounts in this as well. I was happy with the JCI mounts I have been using for the last 5+ years. The header issues that came with the JCI mounts was a bit of a headache (Shorties on a 800+hp LS engine are no bueno), but it worked for what I needed.

Is he the only person that works at his shop? Pretty terrible way to run a business if you can only ship when the owner is physically at the shop. Can't imagine why you would undertake this sort of thing if its that just to ship items that were already paid for.

Actually, the issue on the ls7 motor is not the rods. Not sure where the tuner came up with that info. The issue is that the "dry sump" on an ls7 is an absolute joke. Under hard turns, it is almost guaranteed to pull air through the oil pump, which will quickly destroy bearings and toss rods through the motor. AlainBuron, that is an absolute shame. I would be blowing up someone's phone every hour about them..

Why would you spend $1000 on a set of headers if you aren't interested in maximum performance? Why not just get shorties? They work fine on my 800hp setup, so I'm sure they are more than enough for your conservative vehicle.