mistafosta

To warn you, radials on a car with 90" wheelbase is an awful way to go. Even with wheelie bars, you are going to be skating a thin line between dangerous monster wheelies, and blowing the tires off. (Ask me how I know this one....)

I run an open breather setup, (2 -10 lines from the vcs to a breather) but my engine makes 870hp on the low boost setting and should do well into 1k for the higher boost. Most guys run an ls6 breather setup with a oil separator or catch can in line to the intake, which works great for low or non boosted setups. I've never seen issues with oil retention in the heads on an ls engine so I never looked into a return setup for that. Has anyone had that issue with an actual ls engine or is it just spilling over from past experiences of other engines?

I run a vented crankcase breather system, as do most v8 swap people. The issue we are battling here is not low oil due to retention in the heads, it's a terrible pickup design by Chevy mostly. Neither of these items would fix the issue we are trying to address

Ah I don't have a choice of running the truck depth on my pulleys. I have camaro depth currently, and I'm not sure truck depth would work. Did you have to remove your dash to install the box?

So you're running camaro depth, just had to custom build the brackets? Any pictures of the condenser? I think this would fit my turbo setup, and I would LOVE AC in my car. Does the vintage air box have its own heater box as well? Sorry about all the questions, this idea is super interesting to me. (Tired of trips in 100 degree weather, dying of interior temps)

Please, enlighten us? I have only seen head scavange pumps coupled with a full dry sump system on an ls engine, which is WAY overkill and overpriced for any of the cars in here. Please elaborate on the direct atmosphere venting as well, I've never seen that, but I mostly deal with drag and street engines making 300-1200hp so it might be something from another form of racing.

Sorry I missed this thread until now, I'll try to throw in my .02 I pulled air into my oiling system due to a non modified ls pan while doing http://youtu.be/CqYkTHhNcNw?list=UUVN2JWzzgBXpzxKo9uzvDew that wheelie. It was a very short amount of time, but on the drive home that night I noticed a decent drop in oil pressure and pulled the motor apart that week. Found a decent amount of bearing damage, and 2 scuffed pistons. (Luckily Rebello does fast and excellent work, so I was back on the road within a few weeks) To keep that from happening again, I did 2 things. First we moved the oil pickup to the rear of the pan, by extending the pickup tube, and creating a new baffle plate. (Nothing very complicated, since this is a street/drag car). Second, I installed an accusump in my fender as I showed the OP in another post. I run the electric valve, because after talking to accusump, they told me its what is recommended for a street car. I don't use it at all unless I am at the track, since its overkill just driving around on the street. (Hooked up the control valve to my transbrake/2step arm switch, so when I'm racing there is no way to forget it) Since these two mods, I have had zero issues. Probably about 10-15k miles, cross country trips, 50+ 9 second passes, and now 1 8 second pass, without an issue. The accusump pretty much never has issues, and I completely forget it is in the car except when I am changing the oil. (Still, its an easy thing to do with this, just flip on the valve when the car is off before draining, then let it fill on startup) If I was road racing the car, I probably would have built my own baffled pan or used the improved racing pan baffle kit. The thing about the baffle kit I DONT like, is it still uses the front of the sump area for the pickup which I think is a mistake on a high hp rwd car, even in road racing applications. On to oil coolers. I currently run an oil cooler in front of my left wheel. Its not particularly large, but it works pretty well for my setup. I have it hooked up with a thermostat and through an Improved racing low profile oil cooler adapter. (This WILL fit on the sanderson/JCI header setup, its just tight) My accusump line Tees into the oil cooler hoses, which makes setting it up very nice on my car. My car stays cool in 100 degree outside temps while driving pretty much anywhere, (Traffic, freeway, you name it) and it makes a decent amount of heat with a front mount turbo and 402 engine. Oil temps are pretty much always right around 210-215 once the car warms up. I've yet to see more with this setup, no matter what the driving conditions are, and I'm convinced it helps keep my engine nice and cool. I'll see if I can find some pictures of the setup but I'm sure you guys get the idea either way.

Yeah dual tial mvr 44 wastegates. Didn't want boost creep issues so I went overkill

Went to the track again, didn't get many passes and I broke a rocker bolt midday. (Fixed it and still drove the 80 miles back home after racing as usual lol http://youtu.be/kTF-CCRO4qs I'm still around 14psi, just got a good tune going, and fixed some little issues. Was leaving at 3psi though, which is way less than I usually did on the blower

This is the only picture I got. I had to remove the fender for ease of install, but it fits back on without an issue. There are two bolts up top and one in the bottom mount. Its rock solid, car has about 12k miles with it mounted there.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If its fuel, the pressure will significantly drop as well. You said it was working fine, then did this? Or has the 5.3 always done this? There are a few tables in the stock ECU that can cause a low RPM rev limit like that.

I destroyed an engine from wheelieing too much on the stock pan setup. Its extremely easy to relocate your pickup and do your own baffles like I did. Just extend the pickup tube and plate the bottom. I still don't like the improved baffle since it leaves the pickup in the wrong place (Front of the sump area) and in situations like ours that is not a good idea. For safety, I added an accusump, which was not hard to do. It hides perfectly in the fenderwell.

02 sensors do NOT make the car do anything in a WOT condition. It doesn't really reference them at all, so they would not be your problem. Maybe get the tune fixed first, then start looking at issues.. You might have fouled the plugs (Which is pretty tough to do on an ls) or the tune is just way way off. (Which is easy to do with an ls)

What part did you break? How fast was the car at the time? Did your springs bind on the launch? I'm genuinely curious since I've gone quite a bit faster for way longer on the z32 axles than most people here without any issues, but I dialed my pinion angle/spring rate/ect in correctly.

Nascar is the biggest joke of the racing industry. They only JUST started using fuel injection in 2012. They are in the stone ages for racing, and solid axles are more for limiting the speed than anything else. (Which is coincidentally the root of 99% of Nascar's rules)

So you ran stock 1970s parts? Did you upgrade any of the IRS before switching it out? Don't condemn it without actually having experienced the IRS in its full glory. Yes, the stock axles suck. But its a lot cheaper to upgrade axles than swap to a solid axle (Unless you have a special circumstance, like have a shop, welder, experience in that, ect) And MOST people don't frag CV joints like RebekahZ does. (Which I'm sure will get figured out) I'm no IRS junky either, my car has a 9" and 28" tires. But it also runs bottom 9s with very little boost,and drives thousands of miles without any issues. I only went solid axle due to safety. No other reason. Side note, this is probably the most posts that hybridZ has seen in years. Keep it up before the mods come and try to shut us down for talking too much.

Its arguably one of the best IRS suspensions made for its time. Its not trash by any means. Even with poly bushing and coilovers it will still outhandle most modern designs. I'm not sure why you think the 240z suspension is so bad? I'm looking for evidence that backs your point, and I'm really not seeing a reason.

The upgraded IRS works great. Stock 1970s parts don't work so well, I will agree with that. But if he freshens up the suspension and correctly upgrades the parts it will absolutely handle better than a Z with a solid axle and the same power

Please explain. How does a solid axle ever perform better than an IRS, all things being equal? Your evidence so far is incredibly compelling, but I would love to hear you elaborate just a tad bit.

First of all a taller tire increases load on the axles. Its a basic equation of leverage. Just like using a longer breaker bar to get more leverage, just think of it as the ground having more leverage against your axle. Same weight to move, but now it has a longer lever to fight your axle with. Ideally you should change your rear end ratio before the tire size to adjust for shift points. What RPM are you shifting at? Maybe can shift a bit later so you go through the traps at a better gear place. You also have another glaring problem I can see from your videos (I believe they were yours, Dr thompson?) and that is when you are launching, your rear suspension has WAY too much travel, to the point that it looks like it binds and rebounds while you are still in the 60'. I'm betting you hook really well and then spin tires a bit after 15-20 feet every time? That is from your suspension binding. Another nasty side effect of that is that it will load the axle catastrophically in an IRS car. Reduce that movement, reduce the tire size, and I bet your axle issues will go away.

Yeah, I saw the 28" tire, I feel that is way too tall for the setup but I don't know the car that well. I did 10s on a much smaller tire. Unfortunately, I bought my setup through MM when Ross was still around and doing the z32 axle style. You could probably redrill the new MM stubs for 6 bolts and get ahold of moser for the axles though. I run 6 bolt z32 CVs on both sides. (Inner cv joints x 4)

T-56 for all of my 10 second passes, pulling a tire off the ground every launch. Currently its on a th400 with Infidel's car.