JMortensen

The thing that I got from researching this is that the wing changes its angle of attack, where the car really doesn't change more than a couple of degrees. So you put the vortex generators in a position where they're right at the point on the car where the flow starts to separate, and they cause the vortices and essentially stick the airflow to the shape of the car again. On the wing that is going to be quite a bit farther forward than the car. I'm not saying that there might not be a better vortex created by putting the VG's in clean air, but I think the trade off might be a lot more drag. Possibly something to check out in the next round of wind tunnel tests...

Then I'd suggest you get the rear end out of the 280Z along with the mustache bar, and weld up the carrier gears.

What I'm getting out of this is that Mayolives's VG's are probably not as effective as yours, because in the Mitsubishi example the airflow tended towards the center, and he's got his VG's angled toward the center. The difference I think is that an airplane wing is mostly out by itself cutting through the air, while in comparison the roof of the car is not the only consideration, you've got a bunch more crap in the airflow to deal with.

From the Mitsu article, page 13: This tells me you did it right, and I have a hunch there wouldn't be much of a vortex created if you had them straight in line all the way across. This kinda makes sense too if you read what they said. In the center the airflow is straight back, so you angle the VG. On the ends, the airflow is directed more towards the center of the car so the VG is installed straight and that puts it at an angle to the airflow.

What I said was get away from the spider gear issue by going to an LSD or welding, and then it should hold up. If your point is about the weak spider gears on the 2 pinion open carrier, then I do agree. But if the guy has a built 455 he should be able to afford a proper LSD. That's my take on it. The R230 is probably a good answer too, but then you're looking at so much fab work to get it in there it just seems like kind of a PITA to me. I was serious about guys who can break parts too. Some people can break just about anything. If you want to design the Z so that the loose nut behind the wheel can do ANYTHING to the controls at ANY TIME with 600 whp, I think you'd end up with at 3500 lb Z car. What's the point in that?

What height do you need to install a lift? I have a shop that is almost exactly the same size with 10' ceilings...

Just because someone managed to break a part with a 6 cylinder doesn't mean that the part is bad. I know a guy who snapped a mustache bar behind his NA L6 with SU's. That doesn't mean that the mustache bars are weak though... some people just have a special gift for breaking stuff. The issue with the R200 or any of the R diffs is the spider gears go, especially when a 2 pinion open carrier is used for drag racing. If you start with a quality LSD, ie not the Z31T LSD which relies on ONE clutch disk per side to put the power to the side gears, then I would think it would last quite a while. So as BRAAP suggested, a Nissan comp LSD or a Quaife should do fine. Welded spiders on an open carrier should hold up for a long time too.

There are some dyno graphs of relatively stock engines at zhome.com

It is the cell itself that has to be approved. I think only Fuel Safe and ATI make approved cells, not absolutely sure on that though. Your welding looks a little rough, but I don't think that strength is much of an issue here. 15 gallons of gas weighs ~100 lbs, so it's not the most heavily stressed area of the car.

I think you can do the 2+2 in quotes like: Datsun 280Z "2+2" EDIT--Oops, guess I was wrong. Thanks tannji

You don't have to go to google to do it.

There's a lot going on here. When you just pop the hood, you open up a long slit all the way down both sides of the hood in addition to the area at the cowl. Tests would need to be done to determine what exactly happens in this situation. It could be as you said that more air gets evacuated by the air streaming over the hood than gets pushed into the cowl area at the back. The air doesn't have to just go out or just go in. But raising the hood farther eliminates the high pressure area at the windshield, because the air isn't hitting the windshield as directly anymore. I think it's probably fairly safe to say that the hood opens until the pressure on top and bottom is relatively neutral. How the air flows through the radiator when the hood is open 6" is another thing that would need to be tested. I would venture a guess here to say that you can't vent enough out the top of the hood to cause a lack of air flow through the front of the car. It's possible that you could divert the air up and over the rad core support and out the top of the hood, but I don't think it's likely with anything close to the stock front end. Maybe if you closed off the grill way too much and didn't seal the front of the car to the core support... don't know. That's what I'm thinking... If the air that comes in the front opening HAS to go through the radiator, then I don't think this is possible.

As anyone who has been around here for any length of time knows, we're sticklers for searching before you ask a question. The problem was always that the search engine provided with the vBulletin forum software was not the best. Well, as a side benefit of doing the Google ads for non-donating visitors to the site, we now have a Google search engine integrated into our site. When you click on the Search tab in the blue menu at the top of the screen, you will now see the OLD search box and below it the NEW search box. The new box searches using Google. It can search just the HybridZ forum, just the classifieds, just the photo albums, or the whole internet. Search results come up in a window that looks much like your standard results screen over at http://www.google.com, and our preliminary testing shows that this new setup is a major (MAJOR) improvement over what we had before. So everyone should be sure to thank Dan for getting those Google ads on the site and for the search engine upgrade that came along with it...

It's open all the way down the side of the hood, not just at the back like a cowl. When they did the aero testing the hood popped open and opened up about 6 or 8 inches and stayed there, and the overall effect was beneficial I think. It's in the aero thread if you guys are interested. Limiting strap is a good idea. Otherwise when you hit the brakes your visibility may become "less than ideal".

I went ahead and stickied speeder's post in the L6 forum, also one of BRAAP's posts on headwork. You'll be into both of those areas to get max power from the L6, and I've referred to them both enough times that I thought they deserved the sticky...

I just figured that FAQ thing out the other day helping someone else. If you hit the FAQ link in the blue bar at the top of the screen it will ask you to search and you won't get any results unless you happen to type a word that exactly fits the title of one of the FAQ threads. If you hit "HybridZ" in the title bar to get back to the main forum page, and then hit the FAQ forum, which is the first one right above V8 Z Forums, that will get you into the FAQ area and you can view all of the FAQ posts without having to search. That "C" cam has a gnat's ass more duration than the other cams one one lobe (I think it's exhaust) with a gnat's ass less lift. If there is any difference at all I doubt it would be significant enough to be measured on a dyno. A gnat's ass bigger than tiny is still tiny. The problem with going to a really decent sized cam is that the stock FI sucks and it can't handle anything outside of it's narrow fuel map and vacuum parameters. So put in a decent sized cam and it will run like crap. Plus there are other pitfalls to running a larger cam like when you get lift over about .470 (still pretty small) valve springs coil bind and hit valve stem seals, etc. There are work arounds for those issues too, and if you search "valve stem seals" in the L6 area you should come up with speeder's post which is excellent and tells you all you need to do. I'd suggest you look at replacing the FI with a newer, standalone EFI if you want to stay NA, or replace the FI with carbs like roundtop SU's or triple sidedrafts. If you want to stay NA and want to make power, you gotta get a bigger cam in there, which means you have to deal with both of these issues. I'm not aware of the N47 head having a tendency to crack, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I haven't run that head so I haven't looked into it that closely, but I think if it had a well known tendency to crack I'd probably have heard it along the way somewhere.

No, sorry. I don't usually take my car to any shops to have work done. I know there is Z Sport in Everett and there is another Z specific shop on Hwy 2 in Snohomish, but I can't remember the name...

I don't want to speak for those doing the testing, but it seems that we're after racing modifications, and I don't think louvres would even be allowed in any organized racing class just because of the danger they could pose in an accident.

I'm sure you could send the diff to Unitrax. I'm also sure that you could buy another diff with the ratio you want and swap the LSD for about the cost of the shipping...

No problem Paul.

That doesn't work. A lot of the visitors are probably search engine spiders and bots of other various varieties.

Sounds right. The trick is going to be ordering them. I tried to order from Nissan and they were NLA, I expect this will fall apart when you try to order. Hope I'm wrong...

Like the others, I'm glad it worked out to your benefit. Even happier to know that you used the $$$ to buy stuff from another member.

Fie has to be one of the most under-utilized expletives- plus it sounded funnier...

We're discussing #3. I haven't noticed #2. Do you have an example?