JMortensen

Here's the pics. My old garage was about 1/2 the width of the new one, and probably 7 or 8 feet deeper. In the old garage when I went around the front of the car while it was on the rotisserie I literally had to suck it in and turn sideways... The car is at full ride height in the pics. It's going to be lower than that when I drive it. It's not that cool really, I'm just stoked to see it actually rolling around on its own four wheels! 10' ceilings. The cutouts on the wall are for flourescent lights. The PO painted cars, so he has them installed all along that wall. This shot gives a little idea of what the roll center is like at the max possible height. Keep in mind, no engine or anything else in there... Rear rotisserie bracket is still on the car. Back end of trailer is touching the wall... Front end of trailer is PAST the door track. Literally had to flex the door past the trailer! Look how close the tie rods are to the rim. I suppose I could remove the bump steer spacers, but it still wouldn't allow enough movement to fix the bumpsteer with the inner LCA pivots in their highest position.

As far as boar hunting goes my understanding is that you're usually at pretty close range when you shoot. Open sights might be better than a scope. Sometimes when you use a scope up close all you see is fur and it's hard to aim. I think this is particularly a problem when you're in close and whatever it is you're hunting is trying to kill you. That's why you don't see too many people hunting cape buffalo with a 10x scope... For what it's worth I wouldn't hesitate to use a .270 or a 30-06.

Sounds like a bad booster and master to me, basically you're leaning out the engine really bad when you step on the brakes, because it's sucking air through the brake booster diaphragm. You can pull the hose off of the booster and suck on it, and if it doesn't hold vacuum then you know it's bad. The master should never lose fluid. Pull it off and look inside the booster. I bet you find that it's got a bunch of fluid inside. The only other option for loss of fluid is that you have a leaky fitting or a bad caliper or wheel cylinder.

The fender vents on the blue car are connected to some holes in the inner fenderwell, so they basically take air from the engine compartment and extract it to the fender. The fender vents on the top of the fenderwell take air from the fenderwell and extract it through the top of the fender. I think both ideas could be used simultaneously, maybe in addition to that you could have an airdam which has a lip in front of the front tire as well, which would suck air out of the fenderwells in that direction too.

Downforce in the rear. Front end got light.

Are the holes in the core support plugged or open?

Sounds like a good deal to me. I think I paid $607 for the welder, a helmet, and a pair of gloves. If you want a cart, go get the HF one. It fits the welder much better than the Miller cart.

I still think you guys are wrong about the air under the hood. If NASCAR can get neg pressure under the hood, then we can. NASCAR cars are very basic in terms of shape, previous to last month's release of the COT they didn't have splitters or anything else. No undertrays, no nothing. All they do is get the nose of the car ON THE GROUND, and use the shape of the car to extract air from under the hood. I see no fundamental reason why we can't do the same thing.

This is due to the location of the wake or "pressure drag" behind the car. The spoiler deflects air upward causing some downforce and that also pushes the wake upward as well. Without the spoiler the wake is directly behind the car. With the spoiler the wake is moved further away from the body and higher up and so it can't "suck the back of the car" as well. This link talks about pressure drag in aeronautics terms: http://selair.selkirk.bc.ca/aerodynamics1/drag/Page2.htm There was quite a bit of discussion about changing the location of the wake and how that could reduce drag on these threads: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117165 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115294

You could draw them up and have them made like he did, or you could buy a new LSD for $500. I don't think there are any replacement parts available. At least the people who have gone looking for them can't seem to find them.

Any pics? Were the holes in the core support open?

The wind tunnel operator thought the rear diffuser was a waste of time, not Mike Kelly. It was stated that bigger gains could be had working on the top of the car than the bottom. Here's a list of things that I would like to see in the next test. I don't expect that this will all happen, but these are suggestions: 1. The car lower to the ground 2. The airdam much lower to the ground, maybe 2" from ground level or so 3. Sealed and sloped airbox from the airdam to the core support 4. Bigger vents in hood, with a trip strip in front of the vents 5. Large single plane wing on back, with and without Gurney flap 6. Test with splitter vs without to see the difference the lip makes 7. Test with window nets, both the "strap style" and the fine mesh style 8. Flare/airdam combo which covers the leading edge of front and rear tires and preferrably sticks out at least 2 or 3 inches past the tires on each side 9. Holes in bottom of rear window 10 Holes in top of rear window

http://www.amazon.com/Tune-Win-Carroll-Smith/dp/0879380713/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/103-6497924-6233420?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1179156406&sr=8-1 I haven't read it in a while, but it has do's and dont's for duct shapes, and I think it talks about pressures inside ducts as well.

No, I think that COULD BE what happens. And the point with the Bernoulli effect is that air doesn't necessarily have to flow out of the vents because of pressure. But when the top area between the core support and the hood is left open, and all the holes in the core support are left open I think it's very difficult if not impossible to obtain a negative pressure under the hood.

Exactly. The book Tune to Win has some more detailed info on flow and radiators, how to shape them so that you get good flow across the entire radiator, etc. if you're interested Bob. That's exactly what I would expect. More air trapped under the hood, not getting sucked out by the Bernoulli Principle. So are you agreeing with me there, or did I miss something? Might be fodder for the next testing session. I'd be REALLY interested to see the results of that particular item.

At this point I think THE KEY to getting underhood negative pressure is the box. Everything that you've done to limit air from going where you don't want it to go has been successful, but there seems to be a resistance to the box idea which I don't understand. The circle track article states: So they're saying that BOTH of the boxes that they used sealed the nosepiece to the radiator, but this version of the box allows for negative pressure directly above it. Just that small increase in available space for the neg pressure to act upon change the downforce by 180 lbs. That's not counting the rest of the hood! By the way, the yarn only shows where the air is going, not what the pressure difference above and below the hood is. I know that doesn't sound like it makes a lot of sense, but to put it in other terms, Bernoulli's Principle will allow you to evacuate the crankcase and create a strong vacuum by attaching it via a hose to the pressurized exhaust. You would think on the face of it that the pressure under the hood HAS to be higher for the yarn to show air coming OUT of the hood. In fact this is not the case. Just like the crankcase example, air flowing past the hood vent, especially one that is properly designed, will suck air out from under the hood even if there is negative pressure under the hood and positive pressure over it. I am not going to press this particular point any further after this post unless a new angle is brought into the discussion. I don't want to wear you guys out right off the bat, and there are a lot more things to talk about than just this.

I think I'll have to disagree with Bob on that point then. I don't think you'd see so many race cars from so many different classes doing the same thing if there were no point. The opening to the box I'm suggesting could be whatever size you want to get a very small frontal opening. This is very similar to the point you guys proved about sealing the air dam to the core support. That prevents air from spilling out UNDER the radiator. The box prevents air from spilling out OVER the radiator and through the holes in the core support. And if you have a LOT less air in the engine compartment you might just make a low(er) pressure area under the hood, which translates to more downforce.