JMortensen

That's not Terry's car. That is a YZ kit from Reaction Research. There is a weird glare on the rear flare that almost makes it look like there is a more sculpted shape to it than there really is, but I'm certain its the YZ. Do a search on YZ and you should find plenty of info and pics.

Exactly. These rivets are not actually holding the wheels together. Taking them all out is the other answer.

Some people here have had to adjust them due to spinning the inside tire in corners. The gears do wear on the case and although I'm not sure about the Quaife itself, the knockoff OBX uses belleville springs to set preload, in what might be considered a similar fashion as a clutch type LSD.

Wrong forum. Moving to Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis

Looking at your first pic, I don't think 3/4" depth is enough on the threaded ends. From Aurora's website: Unless I've done my math wrong (which is possible) you need 15/16" of threads inside the tube to fulfill the bearing manufacturers' requirement here.

Dave, see those two threaded holes in the strut pictured above the broken part of the arm? Put bolts in there. It's a known ITS failure point discussed some years back by Dan Baldwin and katman as I recall, and putting a bolt in there essentially fixes the stress riser of the threads having been cut into the strut. With regards to this failure, the threaded section is clearly too short as Ron suggests. Whether or not that would have prevented the failure is something that could only be determined through testing. But a threaded tube end is 1.25" long if I remember correctly, and the max adjustment out of the threaded tube end should be about 5/16" on a 5/8" rod end. Your rod end looks to be turned out closer to 5/8". This would lead to a weakness in the rod end itself, but your failure happened at the arm (this time). Still, when you get your car running again you might consider turning the rod ends in a bit. If you need extra track width a wheel spacer would be a better way to go. What was AZC's response? How did you fix the arm? Have they changed the design?

I used to work on a Porsche racecar which had a widebody kit that was something like 10" wider than stock and super thin fiberglass. What we did on that one was to take your standard aluminum fuel tube that you buy in a roll from the auto parts store and cut a length and pinch the ends. Then we drilled a hole in the flattened end, fiberglassed a nut to the bodywork and bolted it to the bodywork. The chassis end was attached with a sheet metal screw. I really liked this setup because the tube was easy to work with -- and talk about light! I don't know what you could do for the inboard end seeing as you have to attach it to the cage somehow. I think this is going to be the same answer as your floorboards. Maybe drill a hole in the cage and tap it (seems like a bad idea) or weld a nut onto the tube? Someone with more race experience that I will come up with the proper solution I'm sure...

Don't mean to thread jack, but I don't want there to be too many stickies because it makes it hard to browse the threads in a forum, so I just added a warning for Suspension Techniques customers to the title. It's come up a couple of times now where people have purchased the ST springs and installed them as directed and the front sits way too high and the rear way too low. Basically the problem is that ST is labeling the springs wrong. The longer springs should go in the rear, and the short ones in front, regardless of what the stickers say.

This is good advice. The other thing I'd suggest if you absolutely have to drive on salted roads is what the Canadians do. They have shops that drill holes in inconspicuous locations in doors and frame rails and they spray oil into these areas. That apparently helps a LOT. Krown is one place that does it. http://www.krown.com/ I really don't think the Krown treatment is going to save your Z from salty roads, but you might get an extra couple years before you can do a Flintstone style stop with your feet through the floorboards...

The strut wouldn't likely cause a sag on one side. Main symptom of a bad strut in my experience is shock oil all over the fenderwell. The age old test is push down on the fender and see if it comes back up once or if it oscillates, sometimes that's a bit hard to do on a car with stiffer springs.

Must be a 280 arm you're weighing. 240 weighs about 9 as I recall, but the 280 has thicker walled tubing and heavier gauge steel, more gussets too. bjhines did the outer stock control arm mod that I did which adds about a lb and a half and weighed his at 10lb 9oz with all of the hardware to mount it. I can run out to the garage and weigh one again if that doesn't sound right to you. If I recall Austin's setup with hub, hat, and Vette rotor was 13 lbs. I think that hub had studs installed but no bearings and races. I was pretty shocked when he posted a picture of the parts on a scale. When I weighed a stock rotor it was 12 lbs. Austin's rotors were drilled and I think they are 13" x .81".

Any triple manifold should work with your carbs. I'm 99% sure they all have the same bolt spacing. I have my Mikunis bolted to a Weber (Cannon) manifold. Linkage is the problem, and I think the solution requires 2 parts. First, use a cable instead of linkage through the firewall. It's easy to do with a little imagination and doesn't bind. I used a Nissan truck cable and modded the pedal and made a cable mount that bolted to the top of the carbs. Second is going to be the linkage from the carbs to the cable. You might have to fabricate this. Hopefully your SK manifold comes with some linkage. If not, you'll need rod ends to hold a chromed rod, lever arms that attach to the rod, and links that attach from the carbs to the lever arms. I think you should be able to find this stuff from a Weber or Mikuni setup and adapt it to yours. I adapted the Mikuni stuff to my Cannon manifold and it wasn't too hard to do. Before you ask, sorry, no pictures and it's all disassembled right now.

I have to say I don't think you're going to drop too much weight by changing control arms. Stock rear control arm weighs something like 9 lbs if I recall correctly. How much could you possibly lose there and maintain structural integrity? AZC's front aluminum arms might drop a lb. How much is a front arm? 4 lbs soaking wet? The brakes are a good place to drop weight. I think Austin (240hoke) has the lightest front hub/rotor setup I've seen. I seem to remember it being Corvette and the hub and rotor weighed about the same as a stock solid rotor. No kidding... Now THAT is a weight savings. In the rear there isn't going to be much that you can bolt on that is lighter than the stock aluminum drums, but you can drop a significant amount of weight in the front.

I'm also thinking it's a cool looking gizmo. Plus it would allow a person to put a wrench on the turnbuckle to get the tension just right vs using a screwdriver or prybar and then tightening down the 4 lockbolts.

If I recall the gain from a crank scraper was small enough to be negligable. The true benefits to dry sumping a motor are not having to worry about losing oil pressure and being able to lower the motor in the chassis, in my opinion.

^^^Good stuff strotter!!!

I don't think Stony is too worried about SCCA rules. Seems like NHRA is going to be the sanctioning body...

Oh, I thought the 2nd pic was showing a second tube protruding on the other side of the firewall. then I would plate around it with the 1/8" like dr hunt suggested and call it a day.

I'm not sure how to connect the floor to the cage. I don't think what has been done there is bad, I just don't know how to connect the two parts, although I'll be sure to check back and see, because I bet my attaching my dash is going to be very very similar... As far as the firewall goes, in my opinion they should have cut a hole in the firewall, slipped a single tube through it, welded it in, and then made a patch around the hole in the firewall. What they've done on your car is not good because you will have a weld joint right in the middle of a structural tube. If you don't want to cut that tube out and redo it I think your best bet is to weld a plate in at the floor that is cut to fit around the tube on both sides and make sure that the welder is set high enough to attach the plate to the tube and the tube to the tube fusing all the parts together fully.

You might want to think about moving it behind the core support.

Yep. I've got used headbolts and mains on my current engine. No problemo.

Sorry about that guys. When posts are made to the FAQs the forum software is supposed to notify us admins by email. It hasn't been happening and I think Dan has a bunch of other stuff going on right now so I doubt it will be fixed soon. Because of this problem posts will sit on there until an admin happens to go into that FAQ and see the posts waiting. If you post to the FAQ and don't see an approval, email one of us and we'll take a look. If it's FAQ-worthy we'll approve it.

Based on that article I'd say the center lock is a lug nut cover/hub cap. I'm pretty sure they'd mention it if they were actually spinoffs. I do recall about maybe 6 or 7 years ago hearing about a Hyashi Racing setup where you bolted this adapter to the stock hub and then the spinoffs attached to that. I recall it being expensive and rare and the wheels were 15" diameter and maybe 7 or 8 inches wide. I don't know if such a thing is still produced, but it seems a bit on the hokey side to me, I think I'd rather have separate lug nuts and focus more attention on getting the brakes right.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=100401

http://www.colemanracing.com/ and I'm sure many others will do custom rotor hats, so you could reverse engineer it by obtaining the rotor you want to use and making the hat to fit. Also, I think if you were just going for the super-duper, all out, stick your face to the windshield best friggin calipers you could put on the car, I don't the the Porsche Reds would be it. I don't think they're bad by any stretch don't get me wrong, but places like Coleman sell the AP Lockheed calipers which seems to be what you see on serious race cars on TV. Not to mention the Reds would be sized for a car that has a roughly 40/60 weight bias, and your car is probably more like 60/40 (guessing), so the bias would be very rear heavy. You could take care of that with a dual master setup, and I'm sure the fabrication involved wouldn't be a problem, just wanted to bring it up because I think you will be running into that issue head on. You mentioned scalloped rotors. I've seen these on mountain bikes for years and love the idea, but I asked about them here a while back and was told that the cheap ones that were in my price range (Wilwood or comparable) had troubles with warping and premature failure. I think you can go with some very expensive alternatives and not have those issues, which may not be a problem for you judging by your quest for carbon fiber rotors. Coleman is just one option, but I think there might be other more high end race parts suppliers that could help you out as well. I'm looking forward to seeing what you end up with, regardless.