JMortensen

Maybe leaded is available at the pump in Norway. Also, the aiport WILL sell you gas. There is no pilot's liscense needed to buy leaded, or race gas for that matter. In fact they usually have a self serve gas station where you pull your plane up to fill it. You can't pull your car up there, because filling your car with leaded and driving it on the street is illegal. But you can fill up a gas can.

Maybe I'm being dense, but won't that only work with "gapless" rings. Because the ring gap would allow whatever liquid to pour through to the bottom, right???

How about duct taping all the holes around the cylinder where you make the mold? Then you could make the mold without crap getting into the other holes. I would imagine the hardest part would be getting the clay to hold it's shape while you pulled it off of the piston. Maybe just put it on and let it dry for a day or something??? I don't think enough could get in between the piston and the bore to cause a problem since there is only a couple thousandths clearance there.

Gotcha. Sorry bout that, my mistake. So then you'll need valves and springs and cam from a 280Z N head IIRC (not the P head). If you go with a big aftermarket cam then you'll need aftermarket springs and retainers, there was a good thread on valve stem seals that have better clearance, etc. I don't think that book talks about the Maxima head, but it's going to be pretty similar to the E31 which is described. You'll need to install new valves and seats, port the head and unshroud the valves. There are some good threads here by Mack who used the Max N47. You might have already seen them, but if you search for his name you'll get some good info.

Yeah, you're right, but you wouldn't want to do it on an engine that needs to last any length of time, you DEFINITELY wouldn't want to do it on a ZX damper, and you'd need an induction system and a cam and an exhaust system that would still make power at those rpms to make it worthwhile in the first place. And you'd probably want everything safety wired at that point. At least that's the impression I've gotten from those who know better than I do.

If you don't want a stroker don't use the diesel crank. The stroke difference is 79mm vs 83mm. Balancing the crank apparently doesn't fix the harmonic problem. The 240 had a rod ratio of 1.8. The 280 had a rod ratio of 1.65. A 280 crank with 240 rods will have a rod ratio of 1.68. You can search here and on the internet and find tons of info on rod ratio and you can determine it's importance for yourself. The bottom line is that going from 1.65 to 1.68 isn't going to make a huge difference, but like I said, if you have both rods, it would be dumb IMO not to use the L24 rods. That makes me dumb, BTW...

The carbon ring is totally normal, and it only happens above the area where the top piston ring stops, not where the piston stops.

According to the L engine calculator, your head stock should have a combustion chamber of 44.6 cc's. Since your head has been heavily modified, who knows what you have now, but it probably isn't 53.5. 53.6 is what is listed for a P90, just FYI. As for the dome, maybe you could take a mold of one of the pistons and measure the capacity of the mold??? Also stock pistons stick up above the deck just a hair. I want to say .003 or something like that.

Well you might want to try it before you just take it out. You can also change to a thicker fluid which makes it more aggressive. Swapping should be no big deal as long as the CV bolt pattern is the same on the outside end of the CV. Just get a new diff and CV's from a 87-89 and pop it in. Swapping the LSD out of that housing is a little different and you'll want to avoid doing that if you can. It can be done, but the CV's don't work and there might be issues with the ring gear bolts being too large. I want to say the VLSD has 13mm bolts which means you'd have to redo the holes in the carrier or swap the ring and pinion, at which point you'd probably be better off getting the CLSD diff and CV's in the first place.

I bolted my stock seatbelt in over the 4 point, then just tucked it back behind the seat and swapped when I went racing. Worked great. 4 or 5 or 6 point harness sucks on the street.

There should be no mixed opinions on 240 rods. They are just as strong as 280 rods, if not more so (with 9mm bolts). If you have them, use them. The difference in the rod ratio isn't going to be huge, but there will be a difference. There is no downside to it, and since you're buying custom pistons anyway it won't be any more expensive. I wouldn't pay a whole bunch of money to get the 240 rods, but if you've got them you should use them. The L6 crankshaft has a harmonic problem going over 7500. Keep it under 7500 and you won't have your damper and your flywheel bolts back out on you.

.007 is pretty minimal. That's not going to significantly effect compression ratio or volume IMO. I cc'd my chambers on on my E31. It's pretty easy. I used a piece of lucite that I got from Home Depot, and smeared a super thin layer of white grease around the chamber then stuck the lucite on top. I had drilled a bunch of holes in the lucite and filled the chamber with water that I poured from a graduated cylinder. I got the graduated cylinder from a hobby store. It was marked to the .5cc, but there was enough space between the marks that my chambers are probably within .2 or .3 cc. I did three things wrong. First I kept putting one of the two valve springs on the cylinder I was working on, so there was a lot of compressing springs going on. Second, I also torqued down the spark plug so that it was water tight. The third thing was I used water. Apparently you can use a little white grease on the valve seat and the spark plug threads so that you don't have to mess with the valve springs and the spark plug, and instead of using water if you use alcohol it's apparently much easier to avoid bubbles under your lucite, which means that I probably wouldn't have needed so many holes drilled into the lucite.

Ended up at VicBritish, ran me about $75 for master slave and rubber line with shipping. Was $30 for the master and $20 for the slave and $12 for the line. Just FYI.

I believe you're talking rear, and I'm talking front. If that's the case, nevermind.

The pilot hole in the middle of the rotor hat probably isn't the right size for the hub, since it's meant to go on the other side. Also the offset would be WAY off, and you'd need to space the caliper out a lot just to get it centered over the rotor again. Then I suspect that your next problem would be that the caliper hit the wheel. I think you could probably have a decent machinist redrill the AZC hat to match the MM hub. The weird part is that I thought both setups were designed off of the 300ZX 5 lug hub, which should mean that they have the same bolt pattern. I guess I was wrong on that one. Maybe Ross changed the bolt spacing when he made his hubs or something.

The valves will hit the cylinders. You would need to notch the block, even then you probably wouldn't get better flow because the valve would still be very close to the cylinder wall. The P90 has a gigantic combustion chamber 42cc for an E31 vs 53.6cc for the P90, and would net you 7.6:1 compression on a stock 240 block. Get a '80 or later ZX L28 bottom end for your P90 or get a 240 head would be my suggestion.

Called around a bit, best I got was $74.91 on the master and $56.08 on the slave. Seems to me that that's about $75 high. I want to be a nice guy, but I only want to be a nice guy to the tune of $40 or $50...

I'm looking to buy a clutch master and slave cylinder for my brother in law. He bought a really nice '71 that was sitting in a garage for 10 years about a year ago and has never driven it because the clutch master and slave are dead. Who has good prices on this stuff? How about the rubber line to the slave? Anyone? Thanks, Jon

I thought the NL was a typo for NC or something. I'm going OT again to prove the point about govt spending (again). I have not been to Europe, but Seattle is probably the closest you're going to find in terms of public transportation in the US. New York might be close, but people still take lots of taxis there. Chicago might be in there too. Maybe Netherlanders do it better than Washingtonians: The state of WA is going to get several hundred million dollars out of this new budget to upgrade the ferries that run across the Puget Sound. In addition to that money, a trip to visit my sister in law on the other side runs my wife and I $32 round trip. Then there are the insanely long lines to get on the ferries, especially peak hours. I once waited 2 1/2 hours for the Kingston/Edmonds ferry. It is consistently a money LOSER for the state despite the expensive rates and federal funding. In 2001, 70% of the ferry funding came from excise tax on automobiles http://www.baycrossings.com/Archives/2000/07_August/news.htm We have a pretty extravagant bus system here, with articulated buses and routes all over the city. The bus costs $1.50 or so (can't remember exactly) to ride on a single particular route and runs fairly smoothly for the most part. Our bus system was called the best mass transit system in the US a couple years back by some Washington DC committee or other. Used to be funded by an excise tax on automobiles, now apparently is overbudget: http://transit.metrokc.gov/up/archives/may00/rr_legislature.html We have the Sound Transit light rail system. It was originally budgeted at 2.5B and is currently running less mileage with less trains than originally anticipated at a cost of 4B. The mass transit proponents want to EXPAND the system by digging under the city. Can you say Big Dig??? http://www.globaltelematics.com/pitf/bundy-cop.htm I couldn't exactly find how the Sound Transit system is funded. I know voters approved it in 1996, but I don't know if it was a sales tax or a vehicle tax or what that actually provides the cash. Then we have the monorail. This is the worst POS attempt at public transportation I've ever heard of, and I got a $400 dollar increase in my car registration in order to fund it. Even my wife's sociology professor doesn't like the monorail... that should REALLY tell you that it sucks balls. But since it is still in the planning stages I'm hoping to just move away before I have to pay too much into it. So again, I'm not into paying for all of these public transportation services with my vehicle or gas taxes. Maybe some are willing to make that sacrifice, but my opinion is that these services should be run like businesses. I think that some of these services could be profitable, but some will never be. Unfortunately they will ALL continue to be an economic burden to the taxpayers of WA, because gov't doesn't run like a business and it's easier to shift the burden onto the taxpayer. Sorry, but IME public transportation SUCKS.

No problem. The good thing about the coilover setup is that you only need it for the front obviously and it's not terribly expensive. Then you'd need springs, but you can use your existing shocks. It's worth the money.

I think a HANS device might be made to work. EXPENSIVE though... In looking at this one it seems like you could use it to make that bridge I was talking about. Just cut a groove in the padding so that the pressure went to either side of this exposed artery. http://hansdevice.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.47/it.A/id.4158/.f

I was planning on doing this exact same thing, but I was going to chop the axle 3/4" and then weld the ball retainer plate onto the end instead of re-machining the axles. Finally I decided to just say screw it and do a CV conversion instead. I think my idea would have worked just fine though, and certainly 2126's way of doing it would work, although it might be a bit more expensive.