JMortensen

BTW did you turn your rotors before you put them on? Looks like more and more people are saying they had to, just wanted to hear your experience.

Sounds like it just needs to be bled to me. There shouldn't be anything holding the piston in other than friction between the O ring and the piston itself. Have you tried jamming on the pedal really hard? I'd be really surprised if you had it properly bled and you slammed on the pedal if it wouldn't move. Maybe you just have a little stiction on that one piston and it will free up once it starts moving. Worse comes to worse a rebuild kit is like $10.

Are you changing the ring and pinion or just the bearings? Bearings are pretty easy since you shouldn't need to mess with the pinion depth or preload or backlash. Should be able to reuse all the old shims with your new bearings. If you're changing the gears then it's a bit more complicated. To answer your question the FSM is good. Also you can look at some generic R&P setup instructions here: http://www.ringpinion.com/downloads/yukoninstman.pdf The info on patterns is good in that little pamphlet, also gives a good basic idea of what you're doing if you aren't very familiar. IIRC the FSM sets up pinion depth using a pinion depth gauge, the pamphlet tells you how to set it with the pattern. When I worked for Randy's R&P the shop set every R&P by the pattern and never used a depth gauge. Both are valid methods, but you will find some people who will only do one or the other.

I'd just like to point out that stock L6 turbos rev to right about where my new GMC 5.3L V8 does, so "high revving turbo" is somewhat misleading. The GN turbo 6 peters out well short of where my new truck motor does. And then you've got V8's with 6 speeds. Are these people lazy too? They took on a whole other gear, and that certainly that shows their willingness to do what it takes when it comes to shifting. Bottom line for me is that I like a NA motor because I haven't yet found the turbo that doesn't have lag (I've driven the low boost high compression Volvos quite a bit too). I like a high revver because I know that in a NA motor there are 2 ways to make more power. More displacement or more revs.

Yes it is. Most of the states I've been to have 92, CA has 91, and I think a lot of the East coast has 93. Higher elevations tend to have less octane just because you don't need it there. The oxygenation of the fuel to reduce emissions cuts power too, and I imagine it would reduce the amount of boost you could run. So CA is about the worst with 91 and oxygenated gas.

Are you sure you have THE SAME 98 octane as we would have here right at the pump? There are 2 scales for rating octane, RON and MON. US uses the formula RON + MON / 2 = octane rating. Europe uses RON only IIRC. The same car that says "requires 92 octane" in the US says "requires 98 octane" (or something like that) in EU. It wouldn't surprise me if you had better gas than us here especially those of us who suffer from oxygenated fuels at the pump, but I wouldn't go cranking up the boost because of the number on the pump in EU, because it doesn't translate to our number here. Here's a link: http://www.ozebook.com/compendium/suzi/octane.pdf And the important bit:

Just reinforce the hatch before you install it Mike. If it actually has a shape capable of producing a good amount of downforce it will flex the hatch and cavitate at high speed, basically doing nothing but ripping the hatch apart in the process. You might even want to mount it to the body on either side of the hatch, especially if you have a fiberglass hatch. The mount NEEDS TO BE STURDY!!! 2 stories: 1. My old boss had a 911 with the whale tail and the relatively common in PCA/POC gigantic-carbon-fiber-banana-looking-wing that sat on pedestals near the roof line. The wing was $5000 or something stupid like that, but the pedestals it came with were maybe 2 feet tall and 1/8" aluminum. Looked pretty badass on the car, but he got some video of the car going down the straight and the wing was blurry because it was cavitating so much. You couldn't see any damage where the aluminum was flexing either, and it felt pretty sturdy if you just tried to shake it back and forth. I've also seen this cavitation quite a few times on ricer wings that are mounted to a trunk lid. If you're ever looking at a riced out car that surprisingly DOESN'T have a wing, check the trunk lid. If there are a bunch of really stretched out holes the wing was cavitating and basically tearing the trunk lid apart. 2. Last time I watched the American Iron Series of races at the track (about 3 years ago now) the car in the lead was a Mustang with the trunk lid (notchback???) with a GIGANTIC ricer wing on it. I mentioned it to my friends who run the Maximum Motorsports Mustang, and there was some grumbling about it but they agreed he was fast. If I could strap a dead chicken on the hood and go faster I'd have a dead chicken on my hood...

Search. All the info you need is right here in the drivetrain forum.

Both of those cams seem really wrong for a turbo motor. You don't want that much overlap. I have something very similar to the small one right now. Works OK, but the big one might be nice to try... See the turbo cam selection at the bottom of this page: http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm Note the lobe separation and the shorter duration. You really don't want both valves open at the same time for such a long time with a turbo. Just forces a lot of the intake charge into the exhaust. I wonder if Sunbelt makes those cool single valve spring cams in a turbo grind... You're going to need a pretty healthy clutch for your green car, but your blue one would probably be OK with a heavy pressure plate and a stock disk, and if you went that way it would be a lot easier to drive on the street too. I've seen Fidanza flywheels, but not the Z one. They look good. I'd buy one.

Read post #6.

The halfshafts will work, but you need the little stub shafts that come in the 280Z's with R200s.

The stock ZX rear discs were 10" IIRC, and I think your 300ZX rear rotor is 11". Might need the prop valve to dial back the rears a bit, but I guess there's only one way to find out...

The only real "problem" with the ZX caliper setup is the rotor. Rotors are a part that is going to wear out. The harder you drive it and the more aggressive your pads are, the more rotors you'll have to replace. So you might be setting yourself up for a lot of lathing. If that doesn't bother you then I say do it. If it does then you might consider moving the bosses out 1/8" or whatever it is like Terry did. It's a PITA, but you only have to do it once, then your off the shelf rotors work fine. I've got some friends that run ZX struts and brakes on very fast 510's and do lots of track days and I can't remember any of them ever having a bad caliper.

My suggestion is to get a screw in stud for the front.

Coolest BBQ trick I've seen lately was at my in-laws' place. My father-in-law uses a fairly large amount of lighter fluid and throws a match and gets it going. At this point we're both chuckling, and I'm thinking my father-in-law is pretty cool... but then he pulls out an old HAIR DRYER and turns it on high and points it down into the charcoal. Coals were ready to go in about 3 minutes!!! That guy is freakin awesome! Who else would think of that?!?!

Nitrous.

Now that I've seen that, I can't believe I haven't seen that before!

I'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak. Try spraying starting fluid around the intake hoses while the car is running. Flex the hoses around too. Sometimes a hose is cracked just a bit and when it flexes it leaks. My other thought is a dirty throttle body. If that happens the engine will surge then stall. Just fixed a dirty TB on my father-in-laws 5.0. Paper towels and carb cleaner made a huge difference in the way that car runs.

The normal turbo shafts won't work because the VLSD has a different spline count on the diff side.

Some 240SX's with R200s had the VLSD. I believe the 240SX halfshafts are longer, maybe you could get a machinist to shorten the axle and respline. Other than that you're looking for another 88 SS. Then you have to get adapters to attach to the wheel end. I'm betting Ross could tell you if his adapters work. http://www.modern-motorsports.com

That cam seemed a little long on duration to me, so I looked it up. It is a N/A cam, NOT a turbo cam. You need a turbo cam. They have 3 turbo grinds listed: http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm FWIW if I had a L28ET I'd for sure put a cam in it. The engine is capable of a lot more than 5500 rpm, but the cam isn't. My N/A smacks against the 7000 rpm limiter with a cam and triples.

Looks like 44 Mikunis to me. Webers usually have a longer runner and a shorter velocity stack.

Mine has rod ends on both sides, so I just put a little compression on it with the turnbuckle in the middle. I also have diagonals going to the firewall and do the same there. I wouldn't get too hung up on having them 35.94" apart. What you really want to do is keep them from spreading under side load. If they are 35.94 or 35.75 or 36.2" apart it doesn't matter. What matters is when you go around a corner and your outside front goes from -2º camber to -1º camber.

I wouldn't change anything on the gasket thickness because that will change the cam timing and make it a bitch to get the cam sprocket back on. Just slap it back together with a stock thickness gasket if you're going to do it at all.