twoeightythreez

Paz8, Kinda makes you wish you had the conv. done before the 33 extension opened? That road would have been great for some runs being it was being built for about umm...30 years

Hey couldn't help but notice. I'm so glad to hear that there are a couple left over there, one of the most car-unfriendly places in the united states. Now cars only have to live through wet, salty, snowy winters. Though the loss of industry is still saddening, at least the acid rain is diminishing, as there are some advantages to the steel mill, the textile mills, the concrete factories, and the semiconductor factories closing down, and that's definitely air quality. (Those who think L.A. had bad air should have seen the Lehigh valley in the 70's, particularly Allentown and Bethlehem.) I was born and raised in Bethlehem, moved to Allentown at 15, lived in Allentown until I joined the Navy. (Not to beat a horse to death but when I first got out to CA I was amazed at how CLEAR the air seemed...so despite me being a motorhead I can't really argue the tough smog laws.) I miss it so much that I'm going back when I get out in Feb-March. I'm going to drive my infiniti and ship the Z unless I can find someone to drive back with me. (My ship is homeported in San Diego) Then, the next project will begin. (Start a new job, get a new place..will probably live at my parent's for a few months till i get settled...and start wrenchin again.) My next project I'm thinking about is an S110 or S12 200sx with the VH45 in it. I have to get the Z done first, though. WHen I get home we have to connect somehow, get a little Z club going over there! Peace, Bryan

Nismofiend, I noticed that you have "HybridS130" next to the pic of an S11 200sx? Did you install an L28 into it? Sorry to hijack the thread but I'm just curious. Speakin' of leaking injectors, I had the same prob. on my Q45, I replaced the injectors and the new ones were defective, and I had an hour to get the car running, so I pulled the injectors out and about a pint of fuel poured into #1 cyl. I reinstalled everything and forgot all about the fuel....cranked the engine over and BANG! (It was hydrolocked with fuel!) I waited about 10 minutes and cranked her over again and she started (pulling plugs on this thing takes like an hour) and ran fine. I hope I didn't damage the cylinder too bad.

I used the chisel method. The brass is very soft, you only have to score it with the chisel, then get a small screwdriver and carefully collapse the bushing. Once that's done you can use compressed air to blow the chunks out. I also didn't need to press my new one in, I just used a socket the same size as the bushing OD and a brass hammer and tapped it in.

too bad they were SIX LUG....

Though...I guess if you want a low-geared, LSD rear that's relatively narrow and is super-strong the pathfinder rear is hard to beat (I've heard that some cherokee owners are using them, apparently it's just about a "bolt in" swap and you can score H233B's for cheap at boneyards) Pathfinder rear was coil-sprung with DISC BRAKES that had internal drum parking brakes! (hint,hint)

Shoot forgot some of the datsuns with H190's, including the 710 sedan and wagon (coil spring), the 810 wagon (leaf spring), etc. Pretty neat that nissan would provide a 4-cyl. less then 100whp car with a 7.5" ring gear diff.... These things are heavy, too. I put a 720 rear in the 510 wagon I used to own (it made it slow, the ratio was 3.42, stock was 3.90) It was at least 29 spline, was 55" wide and had 12x2" drum brakes on the back. I can't imagine what the H233b weighs.

As said in earlier posts...these are ALL live axles, so unless you really want to "keep it all nissan" Might as well use a Ford 9". I believe when people refer to using the Hardbody diff they're referring to the R200 FRONT DIFF (IFS) used in 4x4 hardbodies. (and frontiers, etc.) The H190 has been used forever, pretty much on every Live Axle nissan made with the exceptions being the V-6 models and later 4x4 models. H190 looks like a mini 9" ford diff. Models I've seen with the H190 include: (bolt patterns are 4x4.5, 5x5.5, 6x6) '68-'72 datsun 510 wagon(leaf spring 4-lug) I believe these were 29spline, all other H190's are 31 spline gear ratio was 3.90 66-late 80's in civilian dress- Nissan cedric sedan(non US market)(coil spring 5-lug) Cedric wagons had the H190 leaf spring 5-lug H190 gear ratio 3.70 66-present- Nissan Cedric taxicabs/police cars (non US) (coil spring 5-lug) S10, S11, most S12 200sx vehicles (only V-6 and turbo models had the R200, all other models didn't have IRS standard till the S13) (coil spring 4-lug) 3.90 Nissan pickup 521, 620 models 59-79 all models leaf spring 6-lug 3.90-4.30 depending on year and intended uses (some were camper specials) Nissan 720 pickup 80-86 2wd regular cab/king cab all transmissions leaf spring 6-lug 3.42-3.90 depending on tranny and cab Nissan stanza 83-84 4wd coil spring 4-lug probably 4.11 Nissan 1200 (datsun 210) wagon and ute (australia) leaf spring 29 spline 4-lug these might have been as low as 4.66 There probably were plenty others.... Models sold with the C200 differential all 6x6 bolt pattern 29-33 spline C200 looks like a GM 10-bolt (it even has a 10-bolt rear cover) Nissan Patrol FRONT axle (rear axle was either C215 or H233) I don't know ratios, sorry All C200's are leaf spring axles Nissan 720 Pickup 80-86 4x4 REAR axle (front axle was an R180) 4.11 ratio Nissan 720 Pickup 80-86 2wd HEAVY DUTY model (non-duallie) 4.11 ratio Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-97 2wd automatic 4.30 ratio Nissan D21 pickup 4cyl long bed 4.11 ratio Again, probably many others that I don't know about... Models sold with the C215 diff (same as C200 but ring gear is 8-1/2 or so) Early nissan patrol REAR axles (I've not read much about this rear) Models sold with the H233B differential either 5x4.5 or 6x6 bolt pattern Looks like a ford 9" being it has a 9-1/4" ring gear! 31-37 spline depending on year and application... Nissan 720 pickup 80-86 DUALLIE CAB/CHASSIS model 2wd I believe 4.65 ratio Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-94? Duallie cab and chassis 2wd 4.65:1? Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-95 V-6 2wd 3.90 Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-95 heavy duty model V-6 2wd LSD 4.11 (LSD optional)95 was the last year for the V-6, duallies, and heavy duty models until it came out on the D22 (frontier) in 1999 Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-97 4x4 4cyl rear axle Non LSD 4.69:1 (front axle is an R200) Nissan D21 pickup 86.5-95 4x4 V-6 Rear Axle LSD 4.11-4.69:1 (depending on tire size) Front diff was an R200 Nissan Pathfinder V-6 all years 2 and 4wd same as pickups but these are COIL SPRING with DISC BRAKES! Nissan Van (the one that was recalled) Rear axle 4.11 H233B 5x4.5 bolt pattern (or possibly 5x5 I've not seen many of these even in junkyards, nissan recalled these and crushed them) Nissan D22 (frontier) 4x4 rear axle 4cyl 4.69 or so non LSD Nissan D22 4x4 V-6 rear axle same but with LSD optional Again, there are many others that I've probably not mentioned. Also keep in mind these diffs are not manufactured by "Nissan" but by Fuji heavy industries, of which nissan is partial owner. This is why you can find R160's in scooby doos (and the R180's and R200's in later models) as scooby doo is owned by Fuji heavy industries. This means that most all Jap live axle vehicles (other than toyota) probably have very similar rear ends. (kind of like US vehicles that use Borg-warner and Dana axles, except for the General) There were bigger ones out there too, but good luck finding them. H260 and up...used in Nissan's medium and heavy vehicles. I think the only reason Nissan went with the dana44's in the Titan was because possibly it would have cost more to ship the H260's and H233's across the ocean, also possibly because of the 44's aftermarket, not because of any strength issues (as all who abuse R200's well know)

I know it's beating a dead horse deader but try a test light on the solenoid connector. It should light up when you turn to "start" if it does not the problem is 99.9% the ignition switch assembly.

(You only need the ign switch itself) Oops let me clarify. You only need the ign sw. itself to test/rig the thing. You need a new LOCK CYLINDER to fix the switch.

P.S.- to keep the new switch new for a long time, never force the steering column lock. Gently rock the wheel left to right as you turn the key, this way you don't bend the lock cylinder engagement pin, and the switch will last for years.

I know this sounds like it's TOO easy, but did you check your ignition switch? These things are notorious for going out, the nub at the end of the lock cylinder bends slightly when it ages, and you turn the key to start, and nothing happens. You will still hear relays click, because you hear the relays DISENGAGE from the "ON" position(this is why the radio will go out when you turn the key to start, as will the ventilation, Nissan wanted to make sure as much current as possible got to the starter for those cold days), but the starter solenoid gets it's feed directly from the ignition switch. Try jumping the starter solenoid itself (the big batt terminal to the little male spade end on the solenoid) It should crank unless you have a bad solenoid. I'm saying this because you mentioned bypassing the solenoid entirely. An easy temporary fix is to take the column shroud off, then take the two screws out of the back of the lock cylinder. The little thing that plugs on the connector is your actual ignition switch. You can use a screwdriver or your car key to turn this, and the cool thing about it is you can turn it farther, so it will work. (I've never seen the actual ignition switch go bad on these things, just the lock cylinder) This way you can still drive the car while you order a new lock cylinder. Concerned about theft? Take the ign switch with you when you go. You can put the shroud back on when you're done and tuck the connector back under the dash, nobody will notice anything is wrong. Actually, a better idea is to just go to the junkyard and rip a lock cylinder assembly off any datsun/nissan from the late 70's to mid 80's, they're all the same switch. (You only need the ign switch itself) This way you don't even need to remove your column shroud. YOu can just unplug the connector and plug the switch in, voila! Instant fix.

I'm running the '83 turbo dizzy in my Z with MSII. V3 board. Don't forget to add a pullup resistor in the circuit. The MS V3.0 has a pullup circuit but it's not very strong, and it does not hurt to add one in the connector. (Mine is using a 4-pole trailer connector, as the Nissan one was messed up and I couldn't find a waterproof connector at any parts store anywhere to save my life, except for the trailer connector) If you want to use EDIS (which I'm considering strongly for the future) good luck! (I wonder what you guys use to block the dizzy hole? You still need to center up the oil pump driveshaft!)

My 78 had the FPR under the hood, under the relay cover. I have a few pics attached to show. (in Megasquirt forum where I installed MSII to my 78) Keep in mind the Nissan relay is fed power all the time and recieves a ground to operate. (At least in my car, build date 5/78)

Those are the weights that give the clutch more high rpm holding power. I hope you didn't remove them because then you basically have a stock pressure plate with a centerforce dual friction disc. I have the C/F stage II clutch, it's been good behind my L28E in my '78, I'll find out how it holds up behind a turbo L28 soon. (I'm going to re-use all but the T/O bearing, it's all still in good shape even after 200 or so passes and daily driving)

3rd pic down confirms that it's a dash cap. I have one on my 280

1978 280z about 2950w/me in it (lots of sound deadening) L28ET going in w/ MS-II Current best time on old motor 15.2@90, Currently car has 2pp (people power) external engines applying traction through combat boots. 0-1mph- 2 sec 0-2.5mph 5sec 60'-30sec@2.5mph 1/8-5 minutes@1mph 1000-10minutes@0mph (takin a break) 1/4-are you kidding? steam clean bay on base was far away but not that far away Currently I'm underway for workups so here's some specs for the vehicle I'm currently in (but not driving) 1972 United states warship- hull number 68 (USS Nimitz) Race weight over 90,000 tons Engine: 2 water cooled nuclear reactors providing steam to 4 steam turbine engines Transmission: 4 reduction gears (one for each shaft) Differential: one 26ft diameter non-variable-pitch propeller per shaft "wheel" horsepower: over 70,000hp each shaft, 1-160+RPM, torque: millions of foot pounds Performance: 0-30 knots in 7 minutes 30-0 knots in 4.5 minutes top speed well over 30knots (can't tell you exactly how fast we have gone, it's classified) Quarter mile: a minute or two at over 15 knots, respectable I guess for the weight:)

Umm...pretty F-n heavy. When I pulled mine (doing an L28ET swap) I was so surprised I scratched the head surface to make sure that it wasn't aluminum PAINT on there. Not to mention that I had to jack and jack and jack....because the front end came up about a foot and a half when all that weight came off the springs. I think the short block alone weighs like 340lb. Geez. That must mean the LD28 must be somewhere in the neighborhood of 700lb? (since it had an iron head too)

I think the L-28 does impressively well considering the year it came out, also. The stock cam is very mild and compare it with other engines that came out around that time? stock 78 Z L28 had around 115-130hp and 150-170lb ft, right? Here's some examples of typical late-1970's horsepower figures. 1978 Buick Regal 3.8L 231cid 2bbl- 105hp and 190lb/ft 1978 Chevy 250cid straight six 90-100hp and lots of torque 1978 Corvette L-98- 200hp! 1978 Buick 350 2bbl 155hp and 260lb/ft 4bbl 165hp and 275lb/ft (wtf) 1976 Buick 455- 195hp and tons of torque 1986 buick regal 307olds(5.0L) FOUR BARREL (I actually owned this one) 130hp 260lb/ft...car did 0-60 in about 15sec and was light for it's size at 3300lb and here are these little datsuns putting out an honest 1hp/cid (albiet gross hp) during this same time period. What the hell is the complaint about again? So what if they don't put out modern numbers or comparable to an engine (chevy) that's had an aftermarket continually improving the design for the past 60 years? I think it's commendable considering that terrible smog era.

Sonomaz, My motor is far from fresh, it's just a crappy, oil burning, oil leaking N42 block/N47head L28 that came with my car...which I bought out of the junkyard, and did a few bolt-ons. I never even pulled the rocker cover to adjust valves. It had an odo showing 01,500 when I bought it and now shows around 42500 so I have 142K if I'm very, very lucky. The motor is now sitting in front of the car at the base hobby shop, as I'm swapping in an 81 L28ET. The timing chain was so loose that when I installed MSII I could only approximate the timing because the mark jumps around so much. So, when it put down 166rwhp that day I almost crapped myself. I'm sure the dyno was reading high but I still had 166 and the guy with the built L28 had 164. He was mega pissed. It also put out a super torque curve, 179lb ft if I remember correctly, and it never dropped below 140 unless it was at idle. I could get it to run consistent 15.2's at 90-91mph in the quarter, and it ate two nissan transmissions along the way. I also don't know everything about these L series, but don't sell them short. They were way ahead of thier time when they were designed. (in the early sixties, as the first L-powered car was a non-us market car called the Cedric, back in 1966, before then the Cedric had OHV engines) That's why I always tell people the L-series engine was the "small block Chevy of Japan" (since nissan used them in literally everything and people still hop them up, over 20 years after production stopped) not the B-series (which in 20 years will be about as remembered as the friggin' 8-track) like everyone says. The b-series is more like the LS1 of Japan. Just my two cents.

My brake warning light works fine. If you have the fluid topped off, the caps are correct, and the E-brake switch is fine, try stomping on the brake pedal a few times really hard after it's bled. This usually repositions the proportioning valve switch back to neutral. I can't resist, though. In that pic, OF COURSE the light is on, be a little observant and notice that the ENGINE is not running. (The alternator light is also on) If the engine is running, then the alt. is not charging, and the brake lamp will light too. (I found that out when I threw an alternator belt. The first thing I noticed was that glaring "brake" light, then noticed the alt. light was on too.) That light comes on whenever the key is on and the engine isn't running. The "floor temp" light will bulb check while cranking. I do have a question....how are you guys posting pics in the post itself? I want to put up some pics of my MSII install in my '78 and can't figure it out. (not terribly computer savvy, I'm afraid)

Get the motor to TDC as suggested in the post. Once you've verified the motor is actually at TDC using the rod method, etc. check the damper and make sure it lines up with the "0" mark on your timing pointer. Install the dizzy so it's pointing at #1 and ensure you have equal adjustment in either direction. If this is all squared away you can now turn the crank damper mark to the timing mark corresponding to your initial static timing. My '78 called for 10deg BTDC. Once you have the crank damper pointer at 10deg BTDC (or whatever value you want to set it at) turn the dizzy until the rotor again points at #1. Tighten the dizzy bolts down only enough to hold the dizzy but allow you to still turn it, reinstall the cap, and make sure your firing order is right. This will definitely get the car running, if you do it right the timing will be within 2-3 degrees of what you wanted. Disconnect your EGR valve (temporarily) and plug the vacuum source so it doesn't leak. Warm the car up and drive it up a steep hill in 5th gear at low speed(less than 2000rpm), and floor it. Stop the car periodically and advance the timing a bit at a time. You'll be ADVANCING the timing if you hear the idle speed go up when you turn the dizzy. Once you just barely hear ping, retard the dizzy a hair, tighten your dizzy down, hook your EGR back up and you should be good. I never actually timed my Z with a light until I installed MS-II; at that point I had owned the car for 3 years. You should really get a timing light when you get the chance though.

pics underhood relays.zip

The pinout for my 78 is in the megasquirt thread. Has all the wires ID'd in the stock ECU connector. I'm sure 75 thru 78 are similar, minor differences in component location is up to the proper year service manual and lots of time.

I believe the KA engine was tilted over, but yes, the 720 engine was mounted on a tilt to clear stuff, and the bellhousing on the transmission was tilted to match. I used to have a 510 with a 720 engine in it and the L20b tranny was tilted drastically. The trans mount still worked, it was just REAL hard to get the Xmember bolted up (once it was it was fine) The shifter pointed right at me and fell close to hand, which was cool, but the tranny started going because the orientation of it made it impossible to fill fully. Changing the oil was also a major pain in the butt because you had to JACK UP THE CAR on one side to get all the oil out (if you didn't you would leave about 1qt extra dirty oil in there....Just putting this out because if you used the 720 mounts you might get away with using a KA transmission with no mods to the tranny mounting at all! I'm guessing you could also use the lower section and pickup tube of a 720 oil pan....this way your oil levels can remain the same