emeraldlion

I'm not sure if this would cause an issue, but do you know if your z has had any accidents in the past that might have tweaked things?

That does look really good. There's another member with a smoke grey car that powdercoated the window trim. I'm debating doing the extra work to shave the side body molding/trim or to powdercoat it like the window trim. this is going to be against a midnight blue paint scheme.

Ok so calling all cars. I searched and found maybe one or two threads that mentioned nerf bars but didn't see any cars with installs. Also does anyone have pictures of cars where someone has powdercoated or blacked out their side body trim on top of a color car(something other than black car). Much thanks.

Don't underestimate that acura type-s. Those 3.2's are some mean engines have high compression COP ignition and GREAT factory honda tuning. My wife has the regular accord version and it pulls nice in a 3400 pound accord.

Sounds to me like your dyno numbers are not very accurate. I would think that running a 13.8 you would be making more than 195/270

No doubts there. Picking up my lq4 this week. Will be contacting JCI hopefully next week. Time to start sourcing swap items.

Wow. I got a weird(wierd?) itch last night and was having second thoughts. Was considering an l28et swap just for a slightly easier swap. So I started reading some turbo threads and that cured me right quick! Good gosh, the headached of the extra system, compressor surge, detonation, l28 rebuild costs, and etc was staggering. Blowing my mind real fast. I figured a turbo would be a little more sedate to drive out of boost but now I figure if I want sedate I'll just granny the skinny pedal. I have to give major props to any of the guys here running high levels of boost. The turbo system requirements are way beyond my young n/a skills. N/A v8 it is for me.

Well, if you search through the body and welding subforums you'll see plenty of cars that have rust WAY worse than yours and have been revived so it's do-able. If someone quoted you $2000 to repair all of that rust I'd be a little leary of the work they were doing, that seems like a VERY low estimate to repair. I think that if you were to find a 280zx that is near rust free and painted/modified it you would still be staying true to the car without throwing big dollars at it. All that said it's your car and only you can decide, but I have a feeling this will be the general concensus unless you can do the work yourself and have a fair amount of time.

When referring to shady I meant taking pictures of the car with the hood closed then pictures with the carb and aircleaner on. That's slightly misrepresenting in the ad. That's why we don't buy until we see the car in person though I suppose. I would search on that kwik bracket. I think I was reading in a thread that it hits the strut tower ( I could be wrong though I've been reading a lot lately and it's starting to get jumbled).

Wow. Thanks phocion. That's pretty shady. I was wondering what was going on, because the belt wasn't tightened up and the alternator didn't look like it would clear even if the filter did. There ya go cable, fuel injection it is. I really want to retain my stock hood and don't want to fab my own mounts.

Well, although I'm no engineer I've gotten creative a few times so if I am able to figure it out I'll definitely post it up for everyone. That is, of course, assuming I end up carbureted and not fuel injected. Like I said I'm not entirely decided yet. I've got some time still.

I haven't yet but will be giving it a look if that's a challenge. Sounds to me that you're saying it's not possible in a manner to make it worth it, in which case I probably won't.

Right. It'll be a non-computer controlled 700r4 which should be fine. I figured if I did go witht he carb setup and I wanted efi I could later go with something like fast ez efi system. I would be retaining my returnless system so I should by able to switch without too much work. I know it wouldn't be as good as individual injectors but would retain the carb look( which I'm really fond of). I would also be able to use all the truck accessories this way(with exception of changing alt. mounting).

700r4. Well, some extremely good points. Didn't think the 850 would be too too big. In defense I'm not too concerned with instant starts or bad mpg as this is a fun car. With that said the mileage is obviously a HUGE difference with efi and is something that is difficult to ignore. As far as lag after cam I haven't thought of this but with the 240 I owned it had a 4 barrel and pretty radical cam and didn't really mind it much. The 240 was a 2.8 with mild head work that got 12 mpg and I loved it. The raw fuel in oil I wasn't aware of. Didn't even know this occured.

Cable as far as I know no one sells 280z sfc. I think you can make the bad dog connectors work if you change to a rear mount style rear sway bar. The bad dog rears interfere with the mounts. It's either this route or fab up your own similar to pparakska's design. Cut the top off the tubing and use it as a cap instead of in-floor design. Anyone else please feel free to chime in but this is what my searching has resulted.

Not entirely cable. Weighing my options? In the long run I think they will both come out costing similarly. The fuel injection is extremely tempting so I'm a little torn at the moment. I have a friend that asked me if I wanted his demon 850 last night for a near steal and it got my gears turning again. If anyone wants try and talk me out of it I'm game.

Beautiful. Thank you, not sure how I missed that one

Anyone know if the carb conversion will fit under the stock hood. I was hoping it would but I'm starting to believe it won't fit.

Let me be the first to welcome you to the hybridz community Jake. Please understand up front that this forum can easily become an addiction and dreams form freely. There is more information on this sight than I could ever make use of covering engine swaps and big horsepower to wild body work and custom fiberglassing, to creating custom suspension geometry for road racing. Always use the search feature first if you have a question. Don't use the generic search or you'll be overwhelmed. Use subforum search and advanced search, learn to use quotations around your search phrase. Seems like you have a solid car. Enjoy it and this sight I know I am. P.S. there is a new members sub forum as your scroll down the site, you'll see many more posts similar to yours down there.

I used bondo because it was free and I didn't know any better then. It has held up pretty well, but given an alternative that is not porous, is more flexible I would have used it. After the bondo work we used an etching primer, sealing primer, two coat two tone with ppg and a clear So I don't know if it is the quality paint or prep work that has helped it hold up so long. I agree with everyone that says use a marine type

I'll post what I did with my 62 VW van in the rockers to patch some major holes. It was all done using bondo products and it's all holding up 9 years later. Granted my van doesn't see high hp or body flex and such but with good metal prep and a good paint job no bubling or recurring rust in the patches. I used a mixture of fiberglass sheets an epoxy, bondo glass and bondo body filler(new a dynatron exec who got it all for us for free). Anyhow I would cut out the offensive cancer clean up surrounding metal and rough up the edges. Then I would put this sticky swiss cheese type fiber sheet across the hole and spread bondo glass over that. get it smooth with the flexible spade then sand smooth after all said and done. The bondoglass and the supportive sheet set up well enough to be enough structure for my concerns. The biggest hole I did was about the size of the larger oval shaped hole in the bumper. Well, I have to start paying closer attention to posting dates instead of getting caught up in the read

Lol, yeah I'm not particularly up on the engine covers and badging. I like the old school here's my motor look. I do have to admit though the covers do a good job of hiding the wiring an dI've seen it done tastefully, just not my cup-o'-tea.

Yeah, I watched the video a little closer and saw some lines coming out of the hatch cable. You think the cell is actually INSIDE the hatch?

Not exactly sure why but I'm loving this center exit exhaust. I've always been a HUGE fan of either a shaved rear or 240z bumper but this just wet my whistle. Is it just me or is he running a stock gas tank too? Anyone see any potential problems here other than ground clearance?

Wow. This got alot more attention than I had expected, which is a good thing. BRAAP, thank you for the input and experience in the matter. With everything taken into acount, if an individual doesn't particularly care about the extra 75-100 pounds and ESPECIALLY if planning on running carb'd ls then the "truck" ls variants seem to be a downright steal.