emeraldlion

You're pullin my chain right? They're all hubcaps? How did I miss this piece of info? That would explain why there seem to be so many styles though. Now I feel pretty ridiculous. Ah well, compile pictures of all the hubcaps then? lol.

So was looking through the wheel thread and while there are some great photos, I had a hard time finding all the oem wheels. Searched google, searched this sub-forum, and didn't find anything that had a compilation of strictly the oem wheels offered for the 240z-280zx. Thought it might be interesting to make a thread compiling all of the oem datsun wheels and which model/year they came on. To include JDM USDM and EDM. Sorry I don't have a picture of my own to post yet(but will when I pick it up wednesday).

So after reading through the whole thread I'm biting my nails in suspense. What engine? BTW I have a cousin that lives in Bakersfield. Not a bad place to be, he seems to love it. The build was going great so far so I can't wait to see what you have planned.

Thanks for the replies fellas. This info actually will help when it comes to the tuning part. I was not describing my search properly though. I did finally find the post. It's dealing with a adapter harness that allows the harness to function on it's own with minimal factory harness integration/splicing. Instead of having to have say a speartech modified harness, this adapter allows easy integration into factory harness. For some reason I had adapter module instead of adapter harness in my head. Again thanks for the helpful replies anyhow. Link to original post below. Harness is made by Mcmahon motorsport http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/80472-ls1-engine-harness-adapter/page__p__763379__fromsearch__1entry763379 Chris

Maybe I read the post wrong. This didn't sound like it was for tuning. You still used the stock pcm to reprogram but this module worked in conjunction with the stock harness and pcm instead of the painsfree harness or speartech etc. ,to create an easy swap.

I tried searching and guess I just couldn't find the right phrasing. I read a post not too long ago about a company making a module that when mated with the harness and ecm makes the engine and management standalone. I failed to subscribe at the time and I should have. Anyone else remember who is making this module, have you used it?

There are no stupid questions. If you try searching "turbo tom" That will give you some info on turbo/carb setups. Two different types of setups draw-through and blow-through. Each application is dictated by boost built before turbo or boost built after turbo and regardless of the setup, you won't ever be able to tune it as well as efi turbo setup, but it's definitely unique. You should read the turbo section and some of the stickies about boost and quench, it's some pretty deep stuff but I learned real quick there are some extremely knowledgable members on this forum both book and experience smart. You're definitely in the right place.

Well you're getting into an awesome japanese sports car community if you do. Check for rust and obviously bondo work with a magnet. I f you rea through the forum you'll find that these cars are very succeptible to flexing and twisting in stock form and rust weakens it further. The thin body panels and no rust proofing make them very prone to rusting in all the wrong areas. If you're planning on big fun power(which it soudns like you are) then a strong chassis would be recommended. I would look it over very seriously. He says 75 280zx turbo car in his listing but 75 is a 280z and 280zx came in turbo. It's not very congruent so I would get pictures of the turbo.

No prob. That's what this place is about. Best of luck in the future. There are great finds out there. Depending on what sort of project you are looking for. If you want an early Z just keep your eyes open. The cancer gets these cars though, that's why mine doesn't go out unless it's sunny.

Actually I like the zhome.com site. He has a side view of a z on his site that points to all the major rust areas. Remember that if you're not a welder and want floorboards replaced and done right it could cost you 1500 bucks for the job. That should give you an idea of how much money you can save by trying to find a car with as LITTLE rust as possible. Or you could just trade me your g35 for my Z, lol. Welcome to Z community. In the chassis/brake area and the welding/fabrication area of the forum there is an immense amoun of information on rust repair. When a car sits for a long time the rings can stick in the ring lands. Most often I pull spark plugs and put a small amount of ATFin the cylinder and let it sit overnight, then turn the car by hand first, then try to start it up. IT will smoke like crazy at first, but helps in unsticking the rings. Your smoking could be from the rings just being frozen on the piston since hasn't run. The clutch probably means that you're loosing fluid somewhere in the systemone of the lines could be rusted, could be the masater cylinder has gone bad, they're fairly easy to replace. If you can properly bleed a clutch you can replace the components.

I don't know why everyone doesn't just put s2000 seats in..besides the 600 dollar price tag lol

Yeah. That's the juncture that I'm at. The weighted cost of repairing it back to stock or going to a tube frame front end ala 74 5.0 Z. somewhere in the future I am going to go v8. Although this isn't going to see REAL hard autocross or drag it might make a couple of trips down the strip now and then. And realistically I probably won't go above 300-350 hp. My welding capabilities are probably limited to patch panels so I'm going to be in for some cash on just my frame.

Where in Texas Skahide? you probably saw E88 that looked like an R88. From going through the head files I don't remember an R88 being discussed. You probably have a 240z there. Depending on your end goal with the car. I speak based on the combined advice of almost everyone that has posted on this subject but the MOST important things are how much rust and how straight? My car didn't have any rust but I was so blinded by that fact I overlooked the slightly crumpled front driver's frame rail in the engine bay which subsequently lead me to find that the upper frame rail driver's was tweaked. Fortunately my car is square but in the future is going to cost me. I would rather have a straight car with minimal rust than one that may take some work on the engine. Mechanical work is ALWAYS cheaper and more rewarding for the dollar.

On the original topic. When I bought my Z it had initials on the bumper KD. I just found out they are the initials of the guy that did the glassing on the effects package(a decent job). In conjuction I found that the guy is in prison for KILLING 3 people and that's no joke. So I'm kind suprised to see this thread. Coincidence? Maybe?

When I rebuilt my volkswagen van we took the whole line off and used a wire coat hanger unwound in a very lewd in-and-out manner to get junk out. We didn't have a compressor but sounds like the two combined would get 'em pretty clean. Coat hanger is really only if they're pretty crusty though

At what point does frame damage no longer become cost efficient in repairing. I have a very clean car low mileage(66k), that has next to zero rust. Floor plans and stock under pan rails replaced. Has had front end damage that resulted in some damage of the driver's side upper frame rail and mild damage to driver's engine frame rails. Kinda buckled the bottom of inner fenders right behind lower rad support. It drives fine. I would eventually like to perform a v8 swap and will eventually want to put in engine bay triangulated strut/frame bracing. I'm just wondering when does the extent of frame damage warrant trying to look for a straight/rust free shell especially when my shell is very rust free, and low miles. When I get some decent light I'll post some pictures

The owner of my 62 VW van was stationed in Ft. Hood. When I was cleaning it out there was a bunch of enlisteeinfo and all sorts of military paperwork. Burned that stuff...

All z car specialist in Ft. Worth has gotten some thumbs up from some local guys on the board. That's the only place I've heard of in DFW. I'm sure there are some in Austin and Houston. Very much depends on locality.

Okay. Lol, I was looking for a hidden spring or clip that held the top slider to the lower slider to slide it all the way forward and off. The easiest answer is usually the correct answer no?

Ok, now I find it odd. I tried every phrase in the book to search on how to remove the seats from the rails. I have some cheap corbeau seats in my z and I think they're using the stock rails. How do you take them off? I came up with nothing in the search.

Also need a referal for north dallas Mckinney area. No one wants to touch my car. Pissed me off enough that I won't take my honda to any of these places anymore.

Okay I saw SIG picture of a member with a black turbo car that has rear flares and stock fronts(as far as I could tell). I'd like it if anyone else who has this setup could post pics of your car. I have fiberglass front fenders/headlight buckets and was considering going back to stock metal, would like something to judge on looks.

The link given by JSM is pretty good. I typed "240z t5 swap" into the search field, remember to use quotations it narrows it down in boolean. This is the first link. will be VERY similar in your 280: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=72185&highlight=%22240+t5%22

I guess I'll chime in here since I've been researching this. I had to search and read through multiple threads/posts. I will no address the fact that you will need a clutch pedal assembly and clutch slave cylinder etc. You will need an l28 engine borg warner t-5 transmission. The BW t5 came from the turbo only cars, you can see the difference at zhome.com under the bw t5 link. The bw t5 will bolt directly to your engine without modification. You will need to use the throw out bearing collar that corresponds to the flywheel/clutch assembly you utilize n/a clutch/flywheel n/a bearing collar etc. the turbo t5 input shaft is specific so best bet is to shorten/balance, Sorry don't know specific length to shorten. The transmission crossmember will require some modification. From what I have gathered the 280z tranny crossmember is offset and requires slight slotting of the mmember to allow the transmission mount to align. Hope this helps. You're going to have to search and read for anything further.

thanks war, didn't think to ask ebay. Go to college in fayetville? Have a brother that just graduated. went to UAMS in LR myself.