emeraldlion

Based on some more internet research(take it with a grain of salt) it appears that the a518 bellhousing is 2 inches narrower. 18 inches vs. 20 inch for the 700r4. This doesn't necessarily mean, yet suggests, that the a518 will be narrower overall than the 700r, but probably not by much.

So I have been prepping my 280z for a few months now for a v8 swap. Was planning a SBC but now am considering mopar v8 and possibly a 440. I've been looking into the transmission and I know that you have to create some "reliefs" in the tunnel for the 700r4 to clear. I am wondering if anyone knows the width of the a518 overdrive auto vs the 700r4. The a518 is several inches longer than the 700r and the mounting point is a few inches rearward. It seems to be the concensus that the 518 has the same bolt pattern as the th350 mount so I don't see any reason I couldn't use a JTR trans crossmember and the chebby mount and just relocate rearward. I've just read some info that states the 518 is FAT so was wondering how it compares to the 700r4. Thanks for the help guys

Having looked closely at the rear of LOTS of g8's I would say not easy to fit at all. I think the overall curvature horizontal would be off.

I'd like to see a decent song written and performed by a hybridz member about their datsun or the addiction.

Yeah. Just to add a few things to what MAG said. He pretty much summed it up. I wouldn't start anything until you've researched the decision thoroughly on this site. Please search the forums thoroughly. The FAQ section has some very good turbo swap threads to read, as well as the turbo sub forum. It goes over turbocharging the NA l28 as well as the factory turbo. Search for threads that discuss v8 vs. turbo. They are out there and have discussions from guys that have had both cars. There are ups and downs to each. Although in my research I have yet to see a true drawback to the v8 chevy swap other than it not being "nissan" and requiring some permanent modification to the car. With that said, welcome to the site, it is truly invaluable to any gearhead not just someone working on datsuns and Z's. Please clean up your posts in regards to punctuation and structure though. Proper sentence structure greatly aids in the readability of your posts and is something that is actually enforced well on this site(another reason it is so great). Good luck on the project

Must. See. Pictures.

Thanks for the lesson. I love learning stuff on this forum.

Did you run a larger return line than stock? I was expecting a reduced life on the pump because of the built up pressure between pump and regulator if return line wasn't large enough. I may start this way and just replace the pump with a proper carb pump if it craps out.

that's the advice I was looking for. I saw the aeromotive unit just wasn't sure/

Yeah I could see that but I didn't have a screwdriver small enough, and I was twisting and contortioning and sweating on the floorboards I've been trying to derust and all of that culminated in me taking large hedge loppers last night and lopping it into about 10 pieces. They pushed out from the back just fine then.

Bollocks, exactly what I was trying to convince myself wasn't necessary.

Yeah my last z had a holley red. Was noisy as heck though. Wanted to know if it's okay to run the adjustable regulator thatstates 3-60 and adjust it appropriately at 5 or so psi or if this causes to much back pressure in the line

Now I know the stock pump is pumping fuel injection type psi, but what I was unsure of is do I need to swap to a noisy aftermarket carb fuel pump or can I keep my nice quiet stock pump and use a quality regulator and return line setup. I think I saw a couple of regulators that ranged 3-60 psi, they weren't cheap but they were available.

These are just water drain plugs. I think welding them shut on the framerails would probably be a bad idea, you want water to drain from those holes, welding them shut could trap in moisture resulting in even faster spreading of the dreaded cancer

That custom hood is looking good. Sorry no input on the filler. I know most of the threads I've read just include lead solder. I've never done this but it sure looks cool from watching some you tube videos. I've only been practicing with scrap body panels but I'm using a .028 non-flux gas shielded mig with what I'm assuming is the stock 20/22 guage metal. working pretty good so far.

sounds good. I generally start by getting forceful and usually break something so I thought I'd check. Time to get medieval.

Ahhhhhhh I see. Must have read that wrong. I thought I had remember you saying you did but couldn't resist throwing in my sixpence.

Hope I made the title clear enough. I am dismantling and repairing and wanted to remove engine harness. went to passenger footwell disconnected the connectors but found that there is a white plastic holder that bolts in the footwell and I cannot figure out how to remove the connectors from the holder. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Goth, i know you're trying to keep your costs down but I would seriously consider a better starting point than the 305. You will put more dollars into it to get it to where you want to or have to swap a 350 or more in later down the road. I think grumpyvette had agreat writeup about starting with the 305. If you have to you have to but I would try to take the extra time to source out a reasonable 5.7 from an impala or what not.

Looking for the passenger battery area of inner fender apron. needs to be firewall to as close to stru tower as possible and from where apron meets framerail up to a few inches from framehorn. Thanks.

thanks for the correction on that.

Thanks for trying to keep things on track cable I really feel for you guys in cali. Makes things awefully difficult. I appreciate everyone's response and it seems that the truck engines are a great way to save dollars in the swap if you're not too concerned about adding around 100 pounds from the iron block. Simple cam and head swap with stock components seem to bring you up to performance levels. Now I have been reading that the iron/aluminum combo tend to have higher risk of "piston slap" noise from the different allows expanding at different rates. Seeing as though these engines are being run with high mileage it does not seem to lend itself to excesive wear.

Man, the more I see zx's like yours the more I'm liking them. Not as much as my s30 mind you but it is one good looking vehicle. Great job bringing her back from the edge.

Seems to be a decent zed you picked up. Work look good so far,keep it up and keep us posted.

Check out Terry oxendale's swap page. He plate mounted a 289 then 351W IIRC. He had a pretty cool alternator setup too. USed front and mid plates. Would be similar in a SBC situation but believe me it is going to shake rattle and roll, I rode in a willy's jeepster last week with a 350 plate mounted. I had considered doing this at one point because of the extra stiffening it lend to the unibody structure, especially if you tie the strut spports to the engine.