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About tokuzumi

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. I see those Cardone distributors, but when I actually go to the site, "Out of Stock". I'm sure there are some out there somewhere, though.
  2. Definitely staying NA. The car is a garage queen, with mostly original paint in great shape (no sun damage from original paint), and I don't want to hack it up and do anything that can't be converted back to stock for purists down the road. I could always go with the ProtunerZ crank sensor pulley, but that seems like I'd have to go with a coil on plug scenario at that point. Godzilla can offer assistance in sourcing a distributor for an additional charge. I will also reach out to ZManOfWashington over on ZCar.com. He sounds like he's sitting on enough parts to build 100 Z cars of all years.
  3. Getting my mind prepared for the damage I'm going to do to my credit card to go with a Megasquirt kit (Godzilla or ProtunerZ) for my 1980 ZX base (this will include new fuel rail, injectors, adjustable FPR, etc). But I need a 82/83 distributor assembly along with the oil pump. Some basic Google searches show this is a "Where's Waldo?" type of part. Rock Auto is a "return and rebuild". And local parts stores have 0 inventory. I'm guessing it's not really feasible to frankenstein the 82/83 innards into the stock 1980 distributor? This leads me down the bluetooth distributor path; https://123ignitionusa.com/datsun-6-cyl-240-260-280z-123ignition-programmable-bluetooth-distributor/ This site does not mention compatibility with the 280ZX, however. Tabling the "will this distributor work with the 280ZX" for a moment, does this have the ability to interface with the MegaSquirt to get the info it needs?
  4. That is a fantastic survivor. Like mentioned before, anything made of rubber is on its way out. Replace as many vacuum hoses, fuel lines, etc as you can over time. Might not be a bad idea to order a roll of 3/16,1/4,5/16 vacuum line, and some 5/16 fuel injection line. If the car will spend time outside, I'd make sure all door and hatch trim is still keeping the inside dry.
  5. This guy discusses the install process of the Holley kit on his 280Z. Had some similar concerns as the OP. He said install was overall pretty straightforward, but did leave some things to the imagination. Most instructions were generic and geared towards V8 engines. He did use modern EV1 o-ring style injectors, so this probably helped out with the fueling system woes because of the stock injectors.
  6. I included new bump stops when I ordered my springs and shocks. I have a digital caliper which I will use to measure the rotor thickness. If it's within spec, I'll just replace the pads. I don't anticipate the calipers needing to be rebuilt as the brakes function normally, but I'll know for sure once things come apart.
  7. I'm in no hurry to do the shocks. It will probably be a month at least before I get around to it. Gotta get brakes as the pads are at about 3mm. Also not sure what shape the wheel bearings are in. Hopefully I can just reuse the existing ones.
  8. 1980 280ZX 2 seater. I'm sure I'm overthinking a lot of this, and once I remove the coilovers most of my questions will be answered. This only applies to the rear shocks The diagram in the install sheet has a picture of numbered components with circles or squares. Circles are "replace" components, and squares are "original". 2 of the parts look like they would most likely be rubber bushings (specifically 4 & 6), which I can't see the original 40 year old parts being in any kind of salvageable shape for reuse. Here's a photo of that install sheet, and a picture of the contents of the hardware bag. Do I need to get some additional poly bushings for this shock install? I'm going to reach out to the Z Store to get their thoughts, but with this pandemic it's a pain to try to contact these vendors.
  9. @Shiboh, seeing that it's been 3 months since you installed the system, did the self-learn make things run better? Or did you still have issues with the operation of the system?
  10. I realized my wording wasn't very good. The kit saved me $50, compared to piecing the parts together individually. Going the strut/spring method I went with, I can just disassemble the factory coilover, in install a new strut, and reassemble the coilover. If I want to go with an aftermarket adjustable coilover, you have to cut the front shock tubes, and have a sleeve welded in its place. which is the threaded collar the coilovers use for height adjustment. Fortunately the rears don't have this "cut and weld" requirement. S30s you had to do the cut and weld front and rear.
  11. Hmmm....I'm stupid and wouldn't mind a second S130. Might have to browse Commifornia Craigslist listings. But the sun has probably destroyed everything on the inside. When I bring it back to GA, I can remove all that smog nonsense.
  12. I wanted to go with this system, and was about to pull the trigger, but it's currently "out of stock". Not sure if it's because of the Corona and lack of parts and supplies, or no one ordered it, and the Depot is waiting for enough "email me when available" requests to put it back in stock. I will end up going with the MegaSquirt, but I just didn't want to change out the distributor (I have a 1980). Oh well. What's an extra $200 when you are already spending $2k in parts?
  13. I have Eibach springs and Koni struts/shocks awaiting to be installed on all 4 corners. Purchased the kit from The Z Store, which saved $50 buying the items individually. I read on The Z Store the KYBs are not for lowered cars, which is why I skipped those shocks. I went the shock/spring route because I didn't want to cut my front shock tubes. That's one of those "point of no return" things. I was trying to source a set of front strut tubes, but didn't want to pay the $230/side the Z Car Source was trying to charge. I still paid ~$900 just in parts for the shocks/springs, bump stops. But I'd need a shop to cut/weld the shock tubes, so I'm saving around $300 on the low end by not doing coilovers, to about $900, depending on coilover choice. With my stock shocks and springs, I have about 5" of ground clearance at the "frame rails". Everything is original. I'm hoping my suspension hasn't sagged too much. We'll see after the install.
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