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tokuzumi

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Everything posted by tokuzumi

  1. tokuzumi
    Interesting. Does the factory FPR do the same thing? Lose all fuel pressure after shutting off the engine? My factory FPR was doing that before I replaced with the Aeromotive yesterday.
  2. tokuzumi
    Had 3 issues recently, which I was pretty sure were fuel pressure regulator related 1) Fuel pressure at idle was only 20psi 2) Long cranking times, as fuel pressure needed to build 3) Fuel pressure drops to 0 immediately after shutting off the ignition Replaced the fuel pressure regulator with an Aeromotive one, as I couldn't find a stock style in stock. Got fuel pressure dialed in, and now the car cranks almost immediately after turning the key. But my inline fuel pressure gauge (in-line barb style with a threaded bung which has the gauge screwed into it) still shows 0 after shutting off the car. It could be the gauge only reads pressure when fuel is flowing...not sure. It's this one; https://zcardepot.com/collections/fuel-injection/products/fuel-pressure-gauge-fuel-injection-0-100-psi-280z-280zx?_pos=1&_sid=193df092d&_ss=r Is this normal, or do I have another issue elsewhere? I know my other cars will hold pressure after shutting off the vehicle, so I assumed the ZX would hold some pressure once the car is shut off.
  3. tokuzumi
    My 1980 was purchased new by my uncle, and has been in my possession for just over two years. Car was a base model car, not originally equipped with AC. Uncle paid the dealership to have AC added. Initially I assumed the AC was using all factory components, but I noticed the hose routing differed from the FSM. In the folder of paperwork, there is a warranty card, with the name Southeast Air Control, Inc. Car had 340 miles on it when it was installed.I'm in the process of determining what if anything is wrong with it. Compressor is not locked up, and I get a light hiss when pressing the schrader valves on both the high and low side.There is no relay plugged into the factory location, but now I'm not sure if this kit would have used the factory relay location.Turning on the AC should just be move the directional selector all the way to the vent position (I have a label that says "A/C", and you can see "Vent" at night shining through the tape when the dash lights are on).
  4. tokuzumi
    I found some I think will work. Ordered a set. I saw Gorilla come up a few times in searches, but never these lug nuts. Thank you.
  5. tokuzumi
    And a 17mm diameter shank. I have Western wheels with removable spokes in the stock size (14 x 6-ish). When buttoning everything back up from my brake job, I noticed one of my lug nuts wasn't round at the base anymore. All the lugs are fine, as I was able to thread a lug nut on all studs as a test. Trying to find a mag style lug nut with a short collar is easier said than done. Some paper napkin measuring shows I have about 10 mm from the wheel face to the outside of the hub. Current lug nuts have about 3mm of collar below the washer. They are the stock M12 x 1.25 thread The wheels; And this is the lug nut I'm trying to replace (21mm socket, 34mm long); As long as I can get something that fits in the 17mm lug stud hole, I'll be good. I can double up on some washers on the shank if need be. On an unrelated note, how much of a job would it be to get the holes on the wheels enlarged to accommodate the 18mm shank on every lug nut on the internet?
  6. tokuzumi
    I'll be tackling this project very soon. Did you have any trouble removing the nut from the top of the front strut tubes? I bought the spanner wrench from The Z Store, but I'm curious if I'll be in for a fight removing that nut. Car is a southern car, and doesn't have rust, but that nut hasn't been touched in 41 years.
  7. tokuzumi
    @Ryanotown22 @Shiboh What wire did you guys tap into for the 12V switched power?
  8. tokuzumi
    Is it a dash cover? They are cheap-ish on Z Car Depot, and match the factory colors really well. My 1980 has the original dash pad, but it's been garaged the whole life, so no surprises there.
  9. tokuzumi
    We have to keep in mind the injectors Nissan used in the bosch fuel injection vehicles were limited to just a handful of vehicles in the US. Since the mid-80s, multi point fuel injection (GM's TPI system, and Ford's EFI if we are just looking at V8s) have used the solid body EV1 style high impedance injectors. This is the market Holley is geared towards because there are more customers. I feel the Z Car Depot is doing a bit of a disservice saying this will work with stock injectors. Sure you can probably hack the input parameters int the system to get a pretty decent fuel system, but to take full advantage of the EZ EFI, you would want to ditch the stock fuel rail and injectors and go with high impedance units. It's why I'm six sigma percent sure I'm going with a Megasquirt kit in my 1980.
  10. tokuzumi
    I've been told MS can be used to control fuel only in the past by a coworker who is knowledgeable about the Datsun world. It would certainly be worth my while to talk to Godzilla or ProtunerZ about using the MS for fuel only.
  11. tokuzumi
    My goal is to upgrade the old 40 year old components with more of a "set it and forget it" system. My car is NA, and forced induction will not be part of the picture during my ownership. Although it may just boil down to availability. The EZ EFI kit has been mostly out of stock for the last few months. It was briefly available about a month ago, and has been out of stock since. Megasquirt is available immediately, but you have to find the unobtainium 82-83 turbo distributors.
  12. tokuzumi
    Would you guys buy the FAST EFI again, knowing what you know now? It's getting very close to go time to choose between this and the godzilla raceworks megasquirt unit. I know some of you are using stock barb injectors, whereas I'll be using 14mm o-ring style high impedance units. Maybe that's the difference? The ECM has an easier time controlling the high impedance injectors and needs to be hacked to control the stock style injectors?
  13. tokuzumi
    I see those Cardone distributors, but when I actually go to the site, "Out of Stock". I'm sure there are some out there somewhere, though.
  14. tokuzumi
    Definitely staying NA. The car is a garage queen, with mostly original paint in great shape (no sun damage from original paint), and I don't want to hack it up and do anything that can't be converted back to stock for purists down the road. I could always go with the ProtunerZ crank sensor pulley, but that seems like I'd have to go with a coil on plug scenario at that point. Godzilla can offer assistance in sourcing a distributor for an additional charge. I will also reach out to ZManOfWashington over on ZCar.com. He sounds like he's sitting on enough parts to build 100 Z cars of all years.
  15. tokuzumi
    Getting my mind prepared for the damage I'm going to do to my credit card to go with a Megasquirt kit (Godzilla or ProtunerZ) for my 1980 ZX base (this will include new fuel rail, injectors, adjustable FPR, etc). But I need a 82/83 distributor assembly along with the oil pump. Some basic Google searches show this is a "Where's Waldo?" type of part. Rock Auto is a "return and rebuild". And local parts stores have 0 inventory. I'm guessing it's not really feasible to frankenstein the 82/83 innards into the stock 1980 distributor? This leads me down the bluetooth distributor path; https://123ignitionusa.com/datsun-6-cyl-240-260-280z-123ignition-programmable-bluetooth-distributor/ This site does not mention compatibility with the 280ZX, however. Tabling the "will this distributor work with the 280ZX" for a moment, does this have the ability to interface with the MegaSquirt to get the info it needs?
  16. tokuzumi
    That is a fantastic survivor. Like mentioned before, anything made of rubber is on its way out. Replace as many vacuum hoses, fuel lines, etc as you can over time. Might not be a bad idea to order a roll of 3/16,1/4,5/16 vacuum line, and some 5/16 fuel injection line. If the car will spend time outside, I'd make sure all door and hatch trim is still keeping the inside dry.
  17. tokuzumi
    This guy discusses the install process of the Holley kit on his 280Z. Had some similar concerns as the OP. He said install was overall pretty straightforward, but did leave some things to the imagination. Most instructions were generic and geared towards V8 engines. He did use modern EV1 o-ring style injectors, so this probably helped out with the fueling system woes because of the stock injectors.
  18. tokuzumi
    I included new bump stops when I ordered my springs and shocks. I have a digital caliper which I will use to measure the rotor thickness. If it's within spec, I'll just replace the pads. I don't anticipate the calipers needing to be rebuilt as the brakes function normally, but I'll know for sure once things come apart.
  19. tokuzumi
    I'm in no hurry to do the shocks. It will probably be a month at least before I get around to it. Gotta get brakes as the pads are at about 3mm. Also not sure what shape the wheel bearings are in. Hopefully I can just reuse the existing ones.
  20. tokuzumi
    1980 280ZX 2 seater. I'm sure I'm overthinking a lot of this, and once I remove the coilovers most of my questions will be answered. This only applies to the rear shocks The diagram in the install sheet has a picture of numbered components with circles or squares. Circles are "replace" components, and squares are "original". 2 of the parts look like they would most likely be rubber bushings (specifically 4 & 6), which I can't see the original 40 year old parts being in any kind of salvageable shape for reuse. Here's a photo of that install sheet, and a picture of the contents of the hardware bag. Do I need to get some additional poly bushings for this shock install? I'm going to reach out to the Z Store to get their thoughts, but with this pandemic it's a pain to try to contact these vendors.
  21. tokuzumi
    @Shiboh, seeing that it's been 3 months since you installed the system, did the self-learn make things run better? Or did you still have issues with the operation of the system?
  22. tokuzumi
    I realized my wording wasn't very good. The kit saved me $50, compared to piecing the parts together individually. Going the strut/spring method I went with, I can just disassemble the factory coilover, in install a new strut, and reassemble the coilover. If I want to go with an aftermarket adjustable coilover, you have to cut the front shock tubes, and have a sleeve welded in its place. which is the threaded collar the coilovers use for height adjustment. Fortunately the rears don't have this "cut and weld" requirement. S30s you had to do the cut and weld front and rear.
  23. tokuzumi
    Hmmm....I'm stupid and wouldn't mind a second S130. Might have to browse Commifornia Craigslist listings. But the sun has probably destroyed everything on the inside. When I bring it back to GA, I can remove all that smog nonsense.
  24. tokuzumi
    I wanted to go with this system, and was about to pull the trigger, but it's currently "out of stock". Not sure if it's because of the Corona and lack of parts and supplies, or no one ordered it, and the Depot is waiting for enough "email me when available" requests to put it back in stock. I will end up going with the MegaSquirt, but I just didn't want to change out the distributor (I have a 1980). Oh well. What's an extra $200 when you are already spending $2k in parts?
  25. tokuzumi
    I have Eibach springs and Koni struts/shocks awaiting to be installed on all 4 corners. Purchased the kit from The Z Store, which saved $50 buying the items individually. I read on The Z Store the KYBs are not for lowered cars, which is why I skipped those shocks. I went the shock/spring route because I didn't want to cut my front shock tubes. That's one of those "point of no return" things. I was trying to source a set of front strut tubes, but didn't want to pay the $230/side the Z Car Source was trying to charge. I still paid ~$900 just in parts for the shocks/springs, bump stops. But I'd need a shop to cut/weld the shock tubes, so I'm saving around $300 on the low end by not doing coilovers, to about $900, depending on coilover choice. With my stock shocks and springs, I have about 5" of ground clearance at the "frame rails". Everything is original. I'm hoping my suspension hasn't sagged too much. We'll see after the install.
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