Arif

Sabum, You didn't say what was causing it no to fit. On mine I had to modify the passenger side inlet from it being curved toward the engine to being a straight shot off the IC. Scottie modified the driver's side on his: http://www.zdriver.com/members/scottiegnz/icmods.html Hope this helps.

Will the data from a dyno run tell you whether you are running rich or lean during the run? I think I am fairly close tuning wise on my SDS just want to fine tune with better data than from my A/F meter.

Ok I knew I should of gottten an engineering degree instead of accounting dagree So then let me back up and ask wether I will see a noticeable gain going from a 300ZX (55mm) TB and upgrading to the Mercedes (66.7mm)unit? I know I will have to bore out the intake to get the benefits of greater flow. Also, what would be the downside of a TB that is too big for an application? loss of HP, TQ?? Educate a poor accountant!!

I heard it was off a 75 SEL. Just need someone to verify it for me.

Anyone know what year and model Mercedes the 65mm TB came from? I have a line on one and want to make sure it is the right one before I have them ship it.

Does anyone know where I can get a set of 280ZX CV w/flanges that will bolt up to a 280Z w/ an 3.7 LSD? I want to do as little modification as possible

Try Drax's site: http://members.home.net/drax77/Turbobuild.html

What is the limit on the 1st Gen BOVs? I plan on running upwards of 17-18psi, will it hold that kind of boost?

Does anyone know what causes a transmission to pop out of gear at about 3000rpm or higher? It's mainly 1st and 3rd.

Finally got the Z running great (at stock boost). I changed the timing values on the SDS. I have an external wastegate and a manual adj. boost controller. How do I increase the stock boost to about 10psi? Do I need to make any changes to the wastegate or sds values. How sensitive are the manual boost controller? Do I have to turn it quite a bit for it to increase the boost? Fire away guys!!

If it is anything like my t3/t4 it is probably water cooled. The outlets on the sides are for coolant lines.

Another option if you don't have a programable computer is to possibly go with the SVO/Merkur injectors. They are rated at 370cc so if you do use them you will more than likely have to address the AFM or the engine will run rich if at all. Also there are modifications that need to be done to the injectors. Scottie used to have the "how to" on his old website. I upgraded from those and went with the 75 Mercedes 450 sel injectors. But like someone said before they do require an aftermarket fuel system to run them.

I have completely rebuilt my 280z suspension with MSA springs, Illumina struts, poly eurethane bushings. What other adjustments, other than a front end alignment, need to be done to bring everything back in line?

I ordered the 75 450 SEL injectors after talking with Ron about the modifications needed (none). Got them last night and installed them this morning, the idle is great and I'll be spending the weekend retuining my SDS. Thanks again Ron for the info, they only cost me $53 a piece compared to rc engineering $85-$90.

They gave me a new turbo and I had to give them my t3 as a core. It came with a back plate that i welded up to a mandrel bent 3" U bend that I cut in half and had a mount welded on for the O2 sensor. I don't know how you would to that with yours since it looks from the picture that you went with an internal wastegate and I used an external one. Not sure if that matters but the back plate that they sold me wouldn't fit that application, I don't think. [ October 14, 2001: Message edited by: Arif ]

Ron, Try Majestic turbo. I think they sell the spacer for $15. Mine came with my turbo for free. Here is the website: http://www.majesticturbo.com/ Good luck.

As far as the horsepower ratings for the Mercedes and other injectors at http://www.sdsefi.com/techffhp.htm Does anyone know if these quoted hp ratings are rwhp or flywheel?

Clint, I have heard that it is not a good idea to vent to the atmo. I know the t3/t4 gets in the way of where the PCV valve is bolted into the intake but I used a smaller pipe that fit the intake and threaded it in. I then used a high temp hose, clamped that end and put the PCV inline as the hose goes down to the crankcase. It worked and in theory should be the same as if it was mounted on the bottom of the intake. Just make sure you mount the valve so that it is straight as if it were mounted on the intake. Hope this helps. Arif [ June 30, 2001: Message edited by: Arif ]

Thanks for the quick response. It is actually more of a white smoke. The tail pipe has a bit of condensation in it. I haven't done a compression test yet. What can I do if the rings have not set? ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Another set back. I had my engine rebuilt about a year ago and recently started driving it after I got all the other parts together. The engine only has about 500 miles on it and has burnt through 3 qts of oil. I think it is either the valves or the piston rings, is there any way to know which one it is before I have them take apart the motor? ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Thanks guys. At least now I can do a process of elimination of most of the clutch parts. ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

I think it is the clutch because when I get on the gas hard the revs increase but there is barely any acceleration. Also I'm not sure what else would cause the engine to feel like it is in too low of a gear when it is below 1750rpms. It feels like I'm starting out in 2nd gear from a dead stop, but it is happening in higher gears going down the road. Makes me want to take that engine mount bolt back out ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

...I think. I have a stock 83 280z tranny with a Centerforce DF clutch. I was under my car on Friday and noticed one bolt missing from the passenger side engine mount and the engine was probably 1/4 to 1/2" from the mount. No biggy, looked in my misc bolts collection and found one that matched. Now when I drive it the car feels like it is in too low of a gear from 1000-1750 rpms regardless of what gear I'm in. Sometimes it launches great and other times (usually when the engine is cold) it feels like it has no power. The main reason I think it is the clutch is because the free play in the clutch pedal was over 1" vs. .1 to .4" as recommended per the Center Force DF instructions. Does it sound like I need a new clutch or could it be something else? ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

As for where to mount the magnetic sensor I removed the timing marker on the passenger side of the pulley (280zxt). I then fabricated a bracket using the holes from the timing marker. The only problem with that was that the alternator was too close for comfort to the magnetic sensor. I found a toyota cressida (80 something) and used the alt. bracket from that which allowed me to push the alt. further away from the sensor. If you need pictures let me know. ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

I have bought a few items from Topend perf. for my Z. They were never rude to me, however better prices could be had elsewhere. They are also very set in their ways and believe that there is only one way to do certain things (like a 3.1 stroked turbo will not work...ask James T). ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ [This message has been edited by Arif (edited February 16, 2001).]