Arif

Super, Go to www.zdriver.com and click on links, from there go to downloads. Scroll down and they have a program that will estimate the CR of an engine once you input the parts that make up your engine. ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

The block off plate on the front of my L28T head has a broken bolt. The plate won't seal with only 2 of the 3 bolts in the head. Because of the location (in the front of the engine) I can't drill it out without pulling the radiator to get at it. Is there a type of sealant that is resistant to engine heat and oil that I can use? Any ideas are welcomed. ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Morgan, I THINK they shipped the bosch type water sensor. It did fit without any problems. I went with the 2 bar map sensor. I am using a t3/t4e turbo and expect to run max boost at 17psi(about 350hp). I went with the 2 bar because it really doesn't take more than 350hp to get into the 11s. Which is what I was aiming for with my set up. Carlos (sells the sds) also told me the 3 bar was better suited for race applications, these two circumstances are the reason I went with the 2 bar. I haven't set my boost that high because I am still breaking in the engine. So only time will wether my t3/t4 will generate 350hp at 17psi.

Still fine tuning my SDS and was wondering what exactly can be done if I decide to take my Z to a dyno shop. For instance can I program the MAP/fuel/ign for different boost settings off of a dyno run? Will it tell me were I'm rich or lean at, etc? ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Sundance, The body shop that installed it mounted it onto the the body. Not much finessing as far as the installation went. I will be getting it repainted next year as I've added a few dings and chips to it ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Scottie, Thanks for the clarification on the distributor. When I had my engine put together the mechanic said I needed it to drive the oil pump. Morgan, the system is really easy to use just don't be too impatient to get to the boost. I concentrated on getting the ehgine to idle and run w/o boost for awhile. ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ [This message has been edited by Arif (edited December 18, 2000).]

BLK, I swapped my R180 for a R200 LSD a few weeks ago. I highly recommend AIR TOOLS! It took me about 2 weeks (everyday after work) to get it done. Mainly because I also swapped out my struts and springs on all four corners and went to the junk yard for a few items. The air tools really made the job a lot easier. Good luck ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Sundance, After I installed a set of MSA springs (originally made for a 240)it lowered the car 2" however it doesn't scrub when I leave the driveway. Let's just say I am cautious when I even think I'm about to scrape the air dam. The pictures on my webpage were taken before I lowered the car...huge difference ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

Morgan, I still had to use the bottom half of the stock distributor to drive the oil pump. Scottie or someone else might know a way aroung not using it at all. IMHO I would pick up that distr. just to be on the safe side though. Just my .02 ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ

That is a MSA bumper. I have a set on my 280 and they look a lot better than the stock bumpers. I had a body shop install them and I don't think they were attached to the bumper shocks. The only thing you have to be careful with is in parking lots with the little curbs in front.

I have an extra R200 moustache bar. However from the looks of the bushings they will need to be replaced. Email me if you're interested. [This message has been edited by Arif (edited December 10, 2000).]

Morgan, According to my haynes manual here are the measurements: turbo driveshaft length spider to spider 22.64 in 75 280Z 21.7 in 76 280Z 22.24 in 240 w/4sp 21.26 in 240 w/5sp 20.47 in As far as wether the driveshaft will fit with the t5, I don't know if there is enough play to squeeze the larger turbo driveshaft in a 240. If my memory serves me correct a friend of mine had to cut the stock turbo driveshaft when he installed the t5. Hope this helps.

Can someone explain the theory of MAP values of the SDS. I made some changes to the stock settings and the engine responded better. I don't want to get too far into changes until I fully understand the relationship between fuel values and the MAP values. Also when I start the engine I get a bad stumble right off idle when I first start it. After it warms up the response is a lot better Any pointers on how I can clear that up ------------------ http://communities.msn.com/TurboZ [This message has been edited by Arif (edited December 07, 2000).]

I had my pipe and flange done by a professional because of how tricky (not that I could weld anyway) it is to weld the cast iron. My only suggestion is the shorter the pipe the better. If it is too long you risk cracking under extreme conditions. I say that because I showed my welder a picture of James' wastegate mounted and he advised me if I was going to go that long to also weld a bracket from the manifold to the wastegate pipe for added reliability.

Sorry Drax beat me to it. This thread should be renamed a million questions P90 heads are labelled P90 between the front 2 spark plugs (nearest the radiator). N42 intakes don't have all the emissions etc. on it. However I was told that the turbo runners are a bit larger than the N42 although I haven't measured them. I have a turbo intake in the garage if you need measurements. As far as oil supply line...there is a oil line fitting on the F54 (turbo)block in front of the oil filter. The oil pressure sensor is also plumbed into that oil line fitting. I'm someone else will chime in on the rest of questions. [This message has been edited by Arif (edited November 20, 2000).]

Morgan, I am running 370cc injectors on mine (upgrade later) and it runs great. A friend uses 550cc injectors with the SDS and he has no problems.I was tired of messing with the AFM as well. When I started this project I didn't want to do anything twice so I opted for the F system instead of piecing together a MSD etc. I have no regrets paying extra for the coil. I had a friend drill the holes for the magnets, however the most important thing is to scribe the pulley correctly. This system is really too easy to hook up, it is as advertised "simple"in the way of installation. Good luck

Morgan, I have the complete SDS system and it does everything I need it to do. Like someone else said earlier it doesn't have the data logging capabilities but you get the best bang for the buck with this system IMO. You would be better off with the P90 instead of the P90a. I went with the P90 and it flows pretty well. A lot of people have told me that the P90a's hydralic lifters are a pain to mess with. I talked to James T. when I was deciding on what ratio to run. He said 8.5:1 was better suited for a full race turbo motor, so I would figure that 8.7:1 would be on the high side. I went with 8.0:1 if you were wondering. Just my .02

I agree with Mike. When I did the swap on my 78 I used 300ZX vented discs and I think that was the key to improved braking. I also used the 280ZX master cylinder and it bolted right up with no mods needed.

Stony, That is one bad set-up you are gonna have. When you get back to the states you will be a rare bird with that monster. keep us posted on the swap.

I just swapped out my 3.54 diff for a 3.7 LSD and I always thought the higher the gear the lower the top end mph you make? Is this correct with all other factors remaining constant? I know that mpg will suffer a bit and I'll have a better take off but what other things should I expect with this LSD?

I took my LSD flange into the driveshaft shop and they matched up a yoke onto the driveshaft. They didn't put the part number on my receipt, but it was about $75 to modify the driveshaft. BTW that was a good deal on that LSD wish I had a pick and pull around here. [This message has been edited by Arif (edited November 05, 2000).]

Clint, Actually it wasn't your page. My car is a 280 however like I stated earlier it was an automatic (r180) from the factory. After dropping in the LSD the only parts that actually needed to be swapped was the halfshafts with u joints and diff cover if you plan on using the large capacity LSD cover. Not all R180 need to replace the additional parts. 240Z I guess have different hardware. [This message has been edited by Arif (edited October 30, 2000).]

Scottie, I was not refering to you. I had read a "how-to" post on another web site that stated all the parts I would need to do the swap. It was inaccurate for my car atleast and I just wanted to let anyone else doing this swap to check the parts on their car before spending hours in a junk yard buying parts they don't need. Sorry if you thought I was talking about you.

Lesson learned..... I have a 280Z that was a automatic until I swapped it for a 5spd tranny. I was told that I had a r180 diff. along with all the normal parts you would have to replace when installing a LSD. After spending 3 hours in a junk yard pulling parts I thought I needed. When I got home and compared the front diff mount, rear transverse link mount and companion flanges, they were all the SAME!!! Seems like (my car atleast) the only difference between the r180 and r200 were the diffs. All the other parts were the same. Thank God I didn't remove those companion flanges. Anyway just food for thought for anyone trying this conversion with an auto tranny 280Z. I should have it back together tomorrow minus the rear brace since I decided to keep the large capacity cover.

Mark and Glenn, Did you have to drill any additional holes to mount the brace?