Arif

Is there any way to save that video to my computer? That bike is insane. On the last video I think he did a wheely at over 100 mph as you see nothing but the sky for a second or two!! Crazy..

I have done many mods to my Z car and it has just hit me that my speedo has to be way off. I originally had 195/70/15 wheels and a 3.54 diff. The new set-up consists of 225/50/15 tires and a 3.7 diff. How far off is my speedo now? When I upgrade to 17" rims what size tires do I need in order to correct my speedo reading? Thanks

I went to weigh my Z at a local CAT scale. I was surprised to see that my 78 Z weighed "only" 2740lbs! I know you 240 guys are a lot lighter than this but I thought the 280s were in the high 2800 lbs. Sure am glad I got rid of those ugly and heavy bumpers Itried to do a search to see what others have posted about the weight of their cars but the search function was not working.

Tim, Thanks for the quick response. They told me my frame was bent and to take it to a body shop!! Do you know where I can find more info on camber plates and notching the 3 holes in the strut towers? Thanks.

I went to the alignment shop for my 280Z a few weeks ago and got surprising news. I replaced my entire suspension with motorsport springs (off a 240), tokico illuminas, poly bushings, LSD diff, custom driveshaft and figured I would get it aligned. I get the print out and it looks like my old geometry tests (red marks everywhere!!!) Here is what the print out says: Front: Left Actual Before -0.9 degress -0.9 degrees 0.03 degrees -0.82 degrees Front: Right Actual Before -0.5 degrees -0.5 degrees 0.11 degrees -0.80 degrees Rear: Left Actual Before -1.2 degrees -1.2 degrees 0.71 degrees 0.71 degrees Rear: Right Actual Before -1.7 degrees -1.6 degrees 0.12 degrees 0.11 degrees They told me the rear negative numbers were not within tolerance. What could have prevented them from getting the rear end aligned within spec? The rear end has never been in an accident before.

It does not matter which order you hook up the injector harness. It is batch fired just like the original system.

Tim, looks like they managed to copy the worst part of the new Z, the front end. I don't like the look of that vette at all. Maybe the vette fans will speak up about the redesign. yuk.

Call me crazy but this looks like the evolution of a 1st gen Z to me: http://www.autointell.com/european_companies/BMW/bmw312.htm It has the long front hood with a short rear area. Nissan should have copied this design instead of the Audi TT IMO.

Thanks for the suggestion Clint. I had fuel delivery problems earlier and would run lean on the top end despite the added fuel. I will try and lean it past 4400 rpm and see what happens now that I replaced the fpr and fuel pump. Interesting thought on the timing. I was told it normally maxes out around 3000 rpm. So are you saying that you increase your timing from 1000 rpm up to 3600 rpm. That would mean that you would end up running more than 27 degrees. Thanks for the input.

Clint,Like I told Ron be careful with my RPM IGN map because it is fairly aggressive with a total timing of 27 degrees (42 RPM IGN-15 IGN RET MAP). I think Scottie used to run 24 degrees and a few other folks ran similar timing. Not sure why I can run that much more timing but the engine responds great with no detonation. I would start out with 20 on the RPM IGN map and ramp it up from there. I'll send you an email with the spreadsheet.

I just recieved my Blitz BOV in the mail. Does anyone know how to adjust this thing? As for the installation, I know it needs to be as close to the throttle body as possible but is there an adjustment that is made relative to the amount of boost that I am running? Thanks

Ron, you've got mail

Ron, What is the problem with your current settings? We have similar parts (except for adj. cam sprocket) so the maps should be close. Last time I ran the car I saw about 18 psi of boost with no pinging. I had to get out of it because I haven't installed my BOV yet, should be here on Wed. Let me know if you need a copy of my map settings.

Thanks guys for the help. I got the following Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lite gauges: Speedo Tach Oil press Fuel level volts water temp w sender Does anyone have instructions or pics of how they wired up the turn signal indicators for the tach? Has anyone been able to modify gauge pods from other vehicles to fit on the 1st gen a pillars?

Does anyone know who sells this strut bar? http://www.240z.org/photopost/index.php?photo=967

Tim, Thanks for the response. Is it difficult to remove the dash in order to get at the gauges?

Does anyone know ANYTHING about these fuse blocks? I can't get in contact with z car creations.

Which type of gauges are the best to install into a first gen. Z, mechanical or electrical? What is the deciding factor when choosing between the two? Also, is there a way to install the speedo and tach without removing the dash? I am looking at getting the following gauges: water temp. oil press. volt meter fuel level fuel press. (maybe)

What is the best brake pad replacement for Toyota front calipers? Looking for a pair that will be used primarily for street and occasional strip. Also, got a source for them?

Has anyone used the Maxi fuse block replacement from Z car creations? I am looking at replacing the ugly stock fusible link that is currently on my Z. Are there any other options out there for replacing the stock one? Off subject...I went to the jy last week and out the corner of my eye I see a wrecked 2000 Honda accord with 18" Konig Monsoons on it. I take a look at the corners and see they are in decent shape, however one is missing. I asked the guy how much he wants for them and he say $75 per wheel. Man, if he only had all 4 wheels. I might go back and see if he would take $200 for the set Does anyone know how much it cost to straighten rims and a place that sells individual Konig rims at a decent price?

Thanks for the reply Ron, Is that fuel pump a direct bolt on or is there some modification that needs to be done in order to use it?

OK I spent my sunday replacing the wiring (10 Ga) to the bosch fuel pump that was suppose to flow enough for 500hp. Yeah right. Anyway does anyone have a recommendation for a high flow FI fuel pump? Is there anyway I can test the fuel pump to determine whether it's bad or not?

A little back ground info. I have a bosche fuel pump that is suppose to be good for 500HP. I also have a bosche adj. fpr. At idle the fuel pressure is set at 36psi, when I get on it (8-10psi of boost) the fp goes down to 30-32 psi. I know it is getting lean when it does this so my next question is: what fp range am I suppose to be at under boost say 8-10psi?

He also says that he thinks the engine is running 15psi of boost. If it is I wouldn't touch that thing. He doesn't even have an intercooler on it. I seriously question that boost level. If it is true he had to of detonated the motor atleast once or twice.

Will I get better performance out of my L28T if I switch to another type of spark plugs or change the gap on the current stock ones. Right now I am running about 10 psi and timing at 39 degrees (with no boost).