Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'throttle'.
Hello everyone. I'm going to jump right in. I just installed a new motor. Fully stripped of emissions except charcoal canister. Cold start delete. Bcddd deleted and plugged. EGR delete. All new vacuum lines. New plugs E3's /wires MSD 7mm. New fuel pump (95psi) regulated to 35psi on rail, and filters before and after. Clean grounds. New battery, starter, alternator. Clean connections on injectors. All injectors were bench tested and contacts cleaned w/ new gaskets. Vacuum tested @ 17. New Fidanza flywheel installed with exedy clutch. The issue: Car starts right up strong. Will rev to 3k decent. If I hammer throttle it backfires out the exhaust. I have played with the AFM because both units I have already been played with. I have calibrated one using the guide on Atlanticz.ca and everything went well. On reinstall, the car would not start. I had to tighten the clock spring on afm for it to run again. Now it is soo tight I am afraid to go any further. If I hold extra tension on the AFM it runs beautiful and smooth to 6.5k easy. What else can/should I do to correct this issue? Open to all suggestions.
my 83 stock L28et has a stumble at idle, dose not want to take throttle under load, will not build boost till high rpm, and will only make 4 PSI . I have verified all injectors are working, all cylinders are firing, I can not find any boost leaks on the stock Jpipe , I have cleaned all electrical connectors and grounds per instruction on http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html , and checked all grounds , car is running stock engine management system. The car takes throttle very well at idle but sounds like it had a random miss any help would be very much appreciated. The stumble under load can be heard here at 25-30 secs in to vid very clear. Just a short vid of the issues with the car and showing it taking throttle at idle
Hello, recently i just recently purchased a used set of weber 40 dcoe. But basically i am missing a few parts such as the three eye joints that screw on to the manifold, and one butterfly and throttle shaft. What had happened was i bought the set of webers that had the three pieces of linkage missing so i new i was going to need those. But me being an idiot i was disassembling the first carb without penetrating fluid so i stripped the heads of the screws that hold the butterfly and the throttle shaft in place and i had to drill out the holes. But the throttle shaft needed to be replaced anyways since one of the ends threads were stripped. So basically i need one throttle shaft, one butterfly, and three of the eye joints that screw in to the manifold. The carbs seem to be fairly old italian weber Dcoe 18 No. 9E ,with a cannon manifold. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
My throttle had been sticking at about 1500 rpm until i press the gas pedal sharply, then it goes back down to normal idle rpms. I recently replaced the throttle cable and made it run directly from the firewall to the carb, instead of in a loop as it was before, and the problem was much worse, until I adjusted the part where the cable cover mounts on the carb in order to make the curves less drastic. It seems to be a bit better now, but still sticks sometimes until I blip the throttle. If I open the throttle manually on the carb, it goes back to idle no problem.. so its not the springs, or the carb in any way. The spring on the gas pedal feels a bit weak, but I'm not sure if that could make this happen. I am thinking that the cable must be sticking inside the cable cover somehow, but I have lubricated it with LDL dry lube spray very well. Should I use a different lube? Has anyone else had this problem? PS. I have an auto trans, and the cable from the trans to the carb is engaged anytime the throttle is opened. I know it should slide and only engage when the throttle is wide open, but I did not have a problem with it before. Could the tension from this cable help the throttle close?