RebekahsZ

It just DEPENDS. Noone has ever checked the dates on my belts, or the SNELL rating on my helmet. Noone has ever checked the footplate dimensions of my rollbar, but they do check to see that I have one. But seriously, you guys are suggesting as much work to fake it as it will take just to put the darn cage in. I think SUNNYZ and I have big winter plans, specifically getting the cars to a point where we don't get kicked out no matter where we go. That's my plan anyway.

I think you need to keep the factory temp sender to send temp info to the PcM for fan control. JCI includes an adapter to use the Datsun temp sender (although you gotta CAREFULLY sand it down a bit to fit). I kept the Datsun gauge, but I used a sharpie marker on the face to show me the typical temp. If the needle is above that line, it's hot! If I could do it over (which I can), I would do all aftermarket gauges, I just didn't want to get bogged down throwing my back out under the dash.

209mph = a bad year? I won't go that fast EVER in all my life. I think you guys are amazing.

With regard to tire movement under load: video also showed that the tire is still moving forward in the wheel well before the car moves forward. This is in spite of the aluminum LCA bushings that I thought would help. While the tire isn't hitting the fender since I trimmed the fender, there is no way that I could ever go up to 27" or 28" tires, which is my hope if I nitrous next year. But, there was significant improvement in vehicle stability at the fast end of the track. It could be from the Hoosiers, but I don't think so, because I ran those down to 11psi and it still ran straighter. So it wasn't for nothing, although I now remember why I removed the aluminum bushings: they make your fillings fall out when you hit the smallest joint in the pavement.

I think a lot of my trouble is having the T56 instead of an auto. Been dreaming about building a second car that is purpose built for 1/8-mile drag. A buddy is sending me the info on a clean 260z that he has found. Would have to be TOTALLY rust free, so not likely to follow thru with this. I would strip it TOTALLY, lighten it, fiberglass fenders, doors, hood and hatch. Cheap paint job. Two seats (my family enjoys a joy-ride). 8.50 cage, wheelie bars. Glass windshield, but lexan elsewhere. narrowed 9", four bar, tubbed. Cell, dual pump for wet nitrous system. Fender dump headers. Not sure on transmission, but likely a Powerglide mated to a variety of stock junkyard motors, either 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 or 6.2 based on what I could get cheap and just spray the hello out of whatever motor I got. Swap intake and pan and throw it in and treat it badly. Would just swap intake to LS1 version unless I stumbled across a cheap FAST. Would dzus fastener everything on it that I could and focus the build on ease of servicing major assemblies. Keep ride height high to clear crappy return tracks and hard wheelie landings. Stock front end with adjustable droop straps. Tach, oil pressure, fuel pressure and temps only. Goal would be to run in a motor only 7.0 bracket class starting as a foot brake then moving up to a Pro class. Save spray for grudge nights with plan of running in low 5s. The compromises I've made to drag race a car that has more in common with a road race car are getting pretty tedious. And one autocross a month is just too little to justify the compromises. Although I hope Matt Isbell will have me to AMP again in the spring, and I'll open the season with a trip to Arkansas for their solo II weekend at Blytheville again. Driving car to work this week since I didn't break it this weekend at the track for a change. Put about an hour on it tonight running errands. My buddy with the SBC/T350 280z broke an axle u-joint last night and destroyed the yoke on his axle, so he is down for a couple weeks until he gets another axle and puts some better u-joints in it. I may be loaning him a diff, since he says his sounds terrible since the axle broke.

Oops-I meant to post this on MY thread.

With regard to tire movement under load: video also showed that the tire is still moving forward in the wheel well before the car moves forward. This is in spite of the aluminum LCA bushings that I thought would help. While the tire isn't hitting the fender since I trimmed the fender, there is no way that I could ever go up to 27" or 28" tires, which is my hope if I nitrous next year. But, there was significant improvement in vehicle stability at the fast end of the track. It could be from the Hoosiers, but I don't think so, because I ran those down to 11psi and it still ran straighter. So it wasn't for nothing, although I now remember why I removed the aluminum bushings: they make your fillings fall out when you hit the smallest joint in the pavement.

I spent the afternoon watching videos. It looks like the weight transfer off the rear wheels is the RESULT of spinning, not the cause of it. If I try to time the spinning, it times out to the instant the 2-step clicks off. So, Saturday night the plan is to depress the gas pedal not to the floor, but only to the point the 2-step rpm is exceeded. Then delay going to the floor till after the clutch is out, on a one count. It seems that it takes one second to the second hook in the double hook I now have. So, maybe I can have the benefits of a 2-step yet not have it switch off so abruptly causing spin.

My buddy gets great weight transfer with stock spring that are,what, like 100#? I think jnjdragracing and 1QuickZ are on stock springs too. I think I've found the best I'm gonna have with the current setup. Next year I will try to get double adjustable konis. I can get an initial hook by lowering my 2-step but as soon as the two step clicks off, the tires spin just off engine torque as soon as the rpm is unrestrained. It is like I need some sort of progressive controller ( I know that is supposed to be the driver).. The porpoising I see on video seems to be from a double-hook. Hook (weight transfers back and load springs)-spin (weight transfers forward)-hook (weight transfers back, and get down the track).

Zfan-you solid axle?

I'm sitting in the Dairy Queen parking lot breaking my diet watching all the high school kids celebrate a football victory after making about 15-20 passes at TnT. First night on the 26x9x15 Hoosier drag slicks. Hot, humid night with bad DAs. Ran anywhere from 7.08 to 7.35, mostly in the mid 7.20s with 1.6 60's. spent most of the night trying to fond some traction. This car used to hook great but I've evidently lost my mojo. Finished the night getting least spinning with tire pressures down to 11psi. Played with the two step a bunch and finally settled on 3200rpm. A learning night but nothing broke and I finished the night hot-lapping working on my light. I suck. Only did one .600 but my best was a couple of .525s. Have settled on a setup that seems to be limited by my 250# autocross springs. Consensus is that they are too stiff. Hoping to go to Jakes Dragstrip in Moulton,AL next Saturday where I have set my 1.4 60' times. Eager to burn these tires up and get back to MTs. Oh, I got bottled by a truck that ran 7.30s all night then cut a 6.55 when he lined up against me. That was funny-I beat him off the line by a mile then he just blew past me. I did my fair share of dealing out pain, so it was a good night. So happy with the fuel injection-seems everybody was fighting jets with the bad air, and I just hot-lapped away. First car in the staging lanes and last to leave the track. Representing!

Your tranny is normal.

Where's the video? Maybe I just can't see it on my phone?

There are stickshift classes in bracket racing. Just not very common.

This question is posted repeatedly on this forum and I have an illustration that show why the question has only one answer-gotta try the wheel/tire on to know. So I've burned up my 26x8.5 Mickey Thompson slicks and I'm in the market for some new ones. The day before I'm about to order from summit, a well meaning good ole boy says-"I gotta a brand new set of 26x9 Hoosier slicks you can have for $200." We'll why not, that's less than half price for a tire and only a half inch (1/4" per side) wider and I have plenty of room between my strut and the tire and between the tire and the fender lip. So a deal is made, someone gets paid and I'm feeling pretty good. Get tires mounted, screw them to rim and give them a trial fit. Damn! Even though the section width spec only differs by 0.4", the paper-thin sidewall bulges and rubs on the strut. To get a tire that specs 1/2 wider on my car, the following work was required: 1) aluminum offset LCA bushings which requires: 2) remove and reinstall exhaust system. 3) adjust camber plates 4) 1/8" spacers (thank goodness I already have long studs 5) trim 1/4" off the lip of my fender arch 6) increase ride height/preload 1/2" 7) lower spring seat and jack tire into wheel well three times to ensure clearance then reset ride height 8) watch old video of car launching to see how much car squats on launch. 9) inspect Z31 turbo axles to ensure no axle bind. Wish I had just replaced with same tire and spent the money-I'm whooped! Even if you think a tire will fit, you never know till you bolt it up. This little 2-night experience has solidified my decision to do BAMF flares this winter.

On a Datsun, that would be just inside the rear hatch. Before I went fuel injection I swear there was nothing in the interior but exhaust gas. Folks knew I was at work because they could smell it when I hit the door! Loving my LS-squeaky clean-GO GREEN! Back to the track in two nights.

I'd like to at least beat you off the line if we ever meet up. AZC has had my street rim for a couple months so I haven't been able to daily drive. Track is my only Z-time.

A photo of the springs would be very helpful.

SunnyZ-go slow like me and you won't get kicked out!

Fixed 2-step. Bad o-ring in lower portion of valve-crumbled. I alternate between blue brake fluid and Motul 600. I wonder if that is bad? Working tonight on getting the rear suspension narrowed up enough for the 9" Hoosiers. Definitely doing BAMF flares this winter-these rear fenders are a pita. This damn exhaust is always in the way, too. Glad I used v-bands, but I gotta drop it AGAIN to install the aluminum LCA bushings. I got some cheap 1/8" spacers but I may not run them. So long as the wrinkle is all out by the time the tire rotates to 12:00, I should be ok. I really think I could get away with just a 1/16" more clearance. Wish I had time to knock some out. Maybe it will rain Friday and I can get another few days to work. I need a new drug!

Yeah, I was just kidding about drowning it out. Anti seize is so messy...

The AutoPower roll bar in my car is really just there to give me something to attach my shoulder harnesses to-it is really not much better than what this fellow has done, and he should be commended for the effort. Lets give him some constructive criticism. 1) What is the purpose of the roll bar? If it is to be safe, it is likely minimally more safe than the car without it. If it is for safety when racing, it fails to comply with ANY racing safety regulations in both tubing size and design. If it is just a bar to attach your shoulder harnesses to for a custom look and not racing, it is probably fine. If it is for looks, well, it is kind of funky to the educated eye. 2) You don't need the horizontal bar that is in the bars going back to the strut towers. It should be right behind the seats on the main hoop at about the level of your upper back/shoulders. 3) Your main hoop diagonal is leaning the wrong way-it should go from over the driver's head down toward the lower right side of the hoop. 4) None of us like the roll bars that bolt to the inner fenders-they are not very strong and he cage can punch thru them easily.

Any drag racers out there who can tell me if this slick wear is normal? The rubber seems to be peeling off. Had terrible traction this weekend at the track. Wear is JUST to the bottom of the wear holes. This is how they look after about 100 passes; this was how they looked right after the last run. Have been running 13# hot in them; tires are mounted on 7" rims with rim screws. Traction was terrible last night after being really good initially at the beginning of the season. Have I over-heated them with too long of a burn out? Too many heat cycles? Is my alignment goofed up? Is this just normal wear and I need to chill if my next set does the same thing?

I would love to see a video of the car launching!?

Sounds like you need to go get a new Lexus. Or a pair. If dudes can show up to work smelling like hemp and kiss their boyfriends -I'm sorry, husbands-goodbye when they drop them off for work, why the heck can't you show up with a few bugs in your wind-blown hair smelling like a rich tailpipe, sweat, rotting horsehair and antique vinyl? I think you might have grounds for an anti-discrimination suit. Just drive the damn thing!