RebekahsZ

IDK-it's like magic.

Thanks for posting the video! I speak international sign language, and the message you sent that fella was pretty nasty! Thanks for keeping us all motivated. Or would that be "Mattivated?"

Wow-that thing is gonna fly!

I left the reverse lockout function in place completely. The only thing I did tranny wise was to have the skip shift programmed out. The reverse lockout was a non-issue.

That looks great-really great. I wanna hear about racing with that tranny. What gear do you finish the 1/4 in? What about in the 1/8? What tire you running? Other than the stall and the cooler, any other tranny mods? I'm impressed.

Second ignition switch didn't fix it. Well, it intermittently fixed it but I still get stuck in parking lots turning key on and off repeatedly until it starts. Will try bending the actuator as you suggest.

When I swapped from drums to maxima kit, I found one of my rear stub axles was bent. That would cause wobble of the rotor. Check that. Also, at low speed my CLSD makes the rear of the car shimmy like a wheel is gonna fall off.

Yeah!!!

Sounds like we are all the same. Yeah, my Datsun pushrod is ALL the way out. I need to change to the longer rod myself.

Matt-I wish all you sra guys would post pics from underneath while on a lift. I'm talking to the fella in georgia with the black wheelie-prone ladder bar car. Trying to get together at his track next week. I'm likely looking at a chassis minus engine and tranny. Naptown-my problem (one of my problems) was lack of pushrod length also (insert favorite Viagra joke), even after bleeding like crazy. Bleed some more in a week to get those tiny bubbles out too. Also, make sure it disengages a little extra or you will grind on high rpm shifting. It has to totally disengage. Anybody know why on jackstands, with the clutch is in, when I push the shifter from neutral into first, the tires rotate a bit? Is that synchros?

Matt-are you four link or ladder bar?

Save yourself the trouble: take a big wad of $100 bills and light them on fire. Honestly, it will be cheapest and fastest to get it running and driving in stock condition. Do a V8 swap later, but enjoy driving it for a while before you start doing major mods. The more you modify it, the more time it will spend in repairs.

You likely need more practice!

About how much?

I'm dying for a lift too. I helped a buddy swap a diff the other night using a lift. Actually, that job is easier for me on my back assisted by a floor jack. Dislocated shoulders just can't catch the diff overhead. Took three of us old farts to carry the thing down! That dilutes the beer 3 ways too!

Not only is Jim a good forum member-he's a really good dude! The garlic was awesome-all gone already. My wife says "No more!" The pickled whole cloves are my favorite-snack on them like pickles-all the bats in my neighborhood have moved away.

You must have a 280z? The 240z and early 260z have a wider floorpan and narrower tunnel. Lots more (plenty) room for heel-toeing. But, less room for exhaust and big transmissions.

Madkaw, so it would seem, and so it was on my buddies car which has headers only and no exhaust pipe. But on my car, the exhaust runs under that crossmember. Soooo, to get room to torque the driveshaft, I have to drop the exhaust AND the bracket. If I didn't need the strength or tie-in that the crossmember provides, I would so totally cut it away, leaving only the saddles. I think that is a great mod for low hp cars. Totally resolves a lot of access issues.

Three times due to damaging it but only one total failure (I inspect after every race night and replace anything twisted or cracked). I plan to drop the driveshaft early this winter for clutch inspection and bellhousing upgrade. May drop it again for a differential change out. I am under the car on my back at least once a week. Madkaw, I saw a post once where the crossmember was cut away leaving only the saddle mounts for the control arm bushings-that might have been you? I considered this mod too, but I need the crossmember for rigidity of the back of the tranny tunnel. I am also considering integrating the crossmember and my RT mount via bolts with sway bar link style bushings. This portion of the car takes a beating. Nix240z- did you just have to go up a few drill bit sizes on the hole enlargement or did you have to router them out to elongate/slot them?

About five times a year. And I cuss every time. I have already made two modifications to the stock crossmember and am contemplating another. And another. If you race, you gotta make it easy to fix broken stuff. If you think about it, a paint job is just bling, but most people have one.

Rock auto and eBay?

Trying to do it with just replacing the electrical end of the switch. I'll let the posting rest until I try swapping it again. Some parts are in the junkyard because they belong there.

Thanks fellas-I'll try to get that done this week.

Yeah, my headlights suck. Bought the upgrade harness-maybe it will work to the top of the list this winter. I took car to Autozone and had them put the tester on it. Battery tested fine, starter tested fine (which the switch would work), alternator tested fine. Still have intermittent starting trouble. Car will just fail to crank sometimes. Swapped a junkyard switch into it (super easy job) and car now cranks every time, but will not fire and start! Switched back to old switch and fires and starts immediately every time it cranks. Only pissed me off three times at the track and I got it started by just continuing to try with the key until by some miracle it started. Got another switch from the junkyard to try tomorrow.

Check internet, like autozone.com or something like that?