RebekahsZ

Ok, now I was just teasing. With all due respect, I think sunny is still living in an apartment doing his wrenching outside. I wouldn't be able to get ANYTHING done in those conditions.

I wish you guys lived right next door -think of the hell we would raise! Off topic, but I just saw a patient who is a retired welder and has a tig welder at home and a big shop. I'm trying to take car down to his place this weekend and get this exhaust finished up. My current process of running pieces back and forth to a welder is taking forever and I'm creating a big pile of expensive scrap metal. Fortunately I did a good job on his eyes so he should be able to see what he's doing just fine.

Why are you such a whiner? It has been too cold to work here too. Got down into the forties-I was freezing! I couldn't stand it. Get to work or I'm gonna be dropping time slips all over your ask this summer!

I couldn't run a stock ls2 gto alternator no matter how much I cut down the ear bracket and the JCI driver side motor mount. (The alternator is longer and there is a screw on the front that will hit on your steering rack) Switched to a ls1 camaro style alternator and it bolted right in. Lots of pictures in my build thread (I think). The stock ls2 alternator bracket is the same as the camaro. The rear bracket is different but is available thru dealer for $9. The gto alternator plug is different so the harnes will need a small mod as well if you swap alternators.

I'm just gonna let the LS2 computer do the reading for me. I'm not that smart. How much of the sensor needs to be inside the pipe? The bungs bought are kind of deep.

What style of racing are you building for?

I love this site and I might have a little man-crush on Tony D. That helps a lot. For example: driver side I gotta put sensor directly into the collector, which is very short, basically just a reducer. On passenger side it would be more convenient to put sensor about 2' down the tailpipe/headpipe due to where the wiring is for the sensor. (The Sanderson headers are different left to right). I think I can run the sensor wire differently and put the sensor in the passenger side collector so that they are the same.

For the driveshaft loop, consider one that bolts to the two bosses on the transmission tail housing. I considered it but didn't do it for fear of insufficient strength. I've since seen some torque arms mounted to those bosses, so I'm now sure it would have been ok.

I totally agree. That's why the o2 sensor is gonna have to be very close to the primary tubes in the collector. Ill just have to re-group if there are problems.

That's gonna be impossible to get it that close due to the y-section that splits off one way for an exhaust cutout and another way for the real exhaust. The split is right after the collector so I'm space-limited. I've gotten answers ranging from as close to the exhaust valve as possible to 6" after the collector. Both credible sources. I'm gonna conclude that it probably doesn't matter too much and ill put it wherever it will fit.

Thanks!

Oh-oops! Does it matter where I mount the O2 sensor within the collector? I had them in the first section of my tail pipe before but I'm re-doing my exhaust. If I don't get any feedback, I'm gonna just put them right in the middle of the short collector (length-wise).

Snag from us-haha, I meant help from us.

Yeah, there are just a couple of wires that you have to use like a signal from the ignition switch to the stand alone fuse block to wake the thing up. Most everything else either comes off the stand alone fuse block or runs straight off the battery with a relay to turn things on. You will get a good electrical education doing the swap but it is nothing you can't work thru with a little snag from us as you encounter problems. Get the spearco and call Jim when you hit a snag.

Got a bunch of mock up done today, but I think I'm done until Monday - need to get some things spot welded and sections expanded before I continue. Headers are done except for O2 sensors and ceramic coating. Muffler is hung and it looks like I have enough clearance for the tire. Photo shows largest tire mounted with suspension compressed as per 1/8-mile launch. Will test fit street tires and autocross tires too, since they may have a different offset. Have several sections built, but need to be spot welded. More as I make progress.

I have 1" of rear tire clearance with my stainless exhaust-do you think that's enough?

V-bands tacked onto Sanderson headers. Was able to just cut passenger side at an angle; passenger side needed a pie-cut section before the reducer to get the angle right. These are awesome and give me lots of clearance under the car now that the huge 3-bolt flange is gone. I can position the band-clamp bolt in a position that is easy to tighten. Wish the band clamp bolt was 1/4" longer-I have to remove the nut to get them on and off. Got a machinist to open the down-stream V-band a few thousandths to allow for the thickness of the future ceramic coating of the header. QUESTION: On, O2-sensor bung: johnc says closer to head is best. Based on that, I'm thinking I'm just going to have them welded directly into the collector since it is also the widest part of my exhaust until after the y-pipe (Dans toy says to put it in 3" section). Anybody think it matters how far into the collector it matters so that I'm measuring the average off all four primary tubes? Can I have the sensor TOO CLOSE to the primaries such that it only measures one of them and neglects the effect of the other 3? I just don't know how sensitive the sensors are.... Taking header to welder on Monday to have them finished up. Back under car to do some more mock-up.

Just take your car apart and leave it on jackstands for a couple of years. It will always be there when you are looking for it. Anybody coming to steal my car will need to bring tools and a tow truck.

Muffler mounting system done. Stainless tubing has arrived. Hoping to hit it hard this weekend-I've got 3 days off.

Why are speed bumps called speed bumps? Shouldn't they be called slow bumps? Or crap your pants bumps? I hit mine almost everytime I race due to rutted return tracks. If you buy that pan, keep stock ride height or taller. I'm raising my car since doing the swap. And custom mounts won't help unless you cut out the tranny tunnel and do something special there.

If you haven't added anything in your tunnel, you could safely go to 3" no problem. I have added some brake lines, some mounting bolts for some things inside the car and I could have done a better plan with my driveshaft loop, so I went 2.5" but I might still have had room to go to 3" but it would have been tight. Also, ask him to use the strongest yokes he can, my rear yoke looks kind of puny.

I wonder how much difference there is between the Z32 brakes and the Maxima brakes? I'm pretty disappointed with my Maxima setup. The E-brake works, but nothing else does.....I wonder if my brackets and rotors could be used with just changing the calipers. Perhaps I can trouble you for some measurements when you have the parts in-hand? Congrats on selling your stub axles.

You are so right. Perhaps another time in another thread (I'll keep my eyes peeled)...fantastic car and beautiful work!

Where would you measure if your entire rocker panel is rusted off? We are talking z-cars! Seriously, does anybody have a suggestion for rear suspension tricks for drag racing? I wonder if the rear toes-in under heavy accelleration? Static camber recommendation to account for squat on launch?

So, is your rear drivetrain all squared away? I'd drive that mother for a year before tearing it back apart-it's fast as hello already!