RebekahsZ

If there isn't a 9" how-to on the forum, we sure need one. Would you consider putting a bunch of photos and a parts list on the forum? We would owe you a debt of gratitude.

Everybody I know, including me, has gotten rid of those metal bushings. The are way more noisy than camber plates and offer very little adjustability for the trouble. A lot of times I ask questions already having a clue of what is needed, but I learn something everytime I ask a question. And it is really nice to have my parts and tools together before I tear into something.

We all seem to like strut bars, but when they have an arch or a bend to them like that - are they really doing much of anything other than adding weight? Honest question, here, strut bar is on my list of things to do, but it just keeps getting knocked lower by all the "ah-shits" I can't seem to keep up with. Finished work early and my family is out of town - headed straight to the shop!

Will do. Gonna tear it down again........I'm so pissed that I didn't slot the brake line support bracket in the strut to allow me to remove the caliper and swing the strut out without detaching the brake line (and having to bleed everything again!). I have 20/20 hindsight. Maybe I can then find a part number on my strut inserts or at least some identifying features.

Dam n, that's beautiful welding! Johnc, if I lived in LaHabra, you'd be making a lot of money off of me. I think I have a good welder here in Alabama, but I'd have to go to NASA in Huntsville to find somebody who could do that kind of work.

Looks like puppy love.

Are you one of those guys who puts a bra on his car?

Your pressure plate looks just like mine did when the clutch wasn't TOTALLY disengaging. I still think that might be the root of your trouble.

The pictures show a set of progressive coil springs. My first set of springs were progressives and I hated them. They only wound up having one or two active coils. It was like having no suspension travel at all. Switched to mon-progressive and I was good to go.

Front swaybar is back on-car was back together for a few minutes. Found some "play" in the front end. Thought initially it was a bad or loose TC rod, but I think I've got a loose shock insert (something else to keep me from racing in the spring-what's another project??). Ordered the droop limiter straps: 10" rear, 9" front. Ordered more exhaust parts (decided I gotta have Doug's Headers cutouts instead of QTP, so another return to process). The QTP has exposed mechanicals that I don't think will do well inside the wheelwell, the cutout really restricts the opening, V-band installation isn't possible and the instructions say to clean and lubricate it monthly. Supposedly, the Doug's unit is mainenance free, and I don't see any exposed mechanicals. Screwed up an order for some spring rubbers-gotta unscrew that tomorrow. Put car up on jackstands where it should remain until the exhaust is done. Cleaned and cleaned and cleaned the garage. Ordered a SWAG adapter for my new Milwaukee portaband. Gonna drop driveshaft tomorrow night and box it up to ship back to JCI on Tuesday.

Weird. I'm gonna ask them for the strongest they can make and still fit.

If you think you are not going to track this car, you'd better NEVER do it once. It is like CRACK! (Actually, I don't know anything about crack....) Do it once and you'll be back for more and think about it all the time. Go long when you put together your remote bleeder. Mine is 4' long and I wish it was about a foot longer. Think about where you'd place it to make bleeding easy. Not all remote bleeders have a speed bleeder-watch for that difference in products.

Noticeable clunk in right front strut, barely noticeable clunk in left front strut, both noticed when loosening lug nuts for tire change-no problems when driving. But if it happens when I'm just breaking a lugnut free it has to be happening I have tightened the gland nut as tight as I can with a big channel -locks, but I think the strut is loose LATERALLY inside the tube, like the diameter of the shock insert is a bit too small. The strut has to have a little clearance so that I can get it in and out, but I wonder if I have a bit too much clearance. I don't know the model number of my struts, but when I bought them a million years ago, they were the MR2 struts and I got them from Ground Control when I did my coilover conversion. The strut rod has no machining at the top, only threads. I bought the struts already sectioned from an SCCA IT racer that I trust. Gonna get under the car and have somebody wiggle the lugwrench with me under it-just to be sure it isn't a TC rod or tie-rod, but I'm pretty sure it is the strut. I don't know how I might shim be bottom, but perhaps it is at the top-I think the gland nut is stock 240z, not a Tokico gland nut if that matters. Can't recall why I chose to use the stock nut and I don't have a Tokico gland nut on the chance that is the problem. What tool do you guys use to tighten the gland nut?

Heck if I know - I just bolted the thing in and run it! Past the rings? It even still has junkyard spark plugs; I splurged and changed the oil.

Turbo and nitrous? Yeah, I guess you do need to be worried about that back bumper....rear axle?

Stinky? When I come out of the garage my wife say's I smell like beer, gear oil, grease and B.O., or as she puts it: "funky." Maybe it's the driver?

I've read several good threads about wiring the shutoff switch and the likely need to complicate things with shutting off the alternator. Before I get to the point of wiring the switch, I'm in a bit of a quandry about WHERE to place the shutoff switch. I understand it is best to have at the back of the car so emergency crews can get to it if the front of the car is all smashed and the engine is on fire. I was thinking of putting the switch thru the tail light surround panel, but looks kind of complicated. I want to add one of the switches in my next order from the parts site to combine some shipping with other things I'm buying. Just looked at one of the switches in the auto parts store and it is a larger component than I had envisioned in my head and will require more space than I had orginally envisioned. Can any of you who have installed shutoff switches on your S30s send me a cell-phone pic to demonstrate where to locate this thing for the simplest and cleanest install? SCCA/NHRA legal is the goal. Also, I'm gonna need either a 2-pole or a 4-pole (working on the concept)-does anybody know if the 4-pole will work as a 2-pole (just don't hook up the second set of poles)? If so, I'll order a 4-pole to give me more wiring options as I figure out exactly what will be required for my car.

McLeod uses its own slave cylinder,although the concept is the same as any other. The ls9 slave has a green baffled designed to keep dust from coming on the sides, but my experience suggests that the dust comes in on the end, so I don't think the boot is a real solution. Keep me posted over time if you have discolored hydraulic fluid all the time as I do. I assume you will use a steel bellhousing? I gotta go back maybe next year and do that. I think it is really helpful to have an opening in the bellhousing that lets you inspect your clutch engagement and look for hydraulic leaks. The shimming of the slave has to be perfect. The hydraulics have to be perfect too. The TIC master cyl is just a tilton with a rod end fitting on the push rod. There is nothing special or magic about the tic. I have purchased 5-6 different tilton masters and half of them were bad out of the box. Get an AN 3 plug and put it in the out port of the master. Bleed the brakes then make sure your master will hold pressure against that plug. If it doesn't, the master is bad. Check that before spending a lot of time looking for red herrings. That is a go-no-go test on the master. Also, cut the metric nut off the yoke for the push rod and have a SAE nut welded in its place so you can use the longer rod that comes with the new master. You can just swap rods and avoid the welding, but the Datsun rod is barely long enough and you want some adjustability. My datsun rod is fully extended even with a 1" master which makes for a pretty stiff pedal. Most guys are doing fine with a 7/8" master if they have a longer rod to allow full travel. The difference between 7/8 and 1" is very noticeable for pedal effort with the 1" being more stiff (think old school racing clutch). Hope that helps-I just shared most of my t56 problems that kept me on jack stands during the height of last racing season. Lots of t56 folklore on the Internet and it is 99.9% crap. Ill try to edit this later and show a picture of the dust all over my slave cylinder. IMG_0752.MOV

That is a lovely thing to think about(wheelies). It is hard to get mine in and out so coming back forward with it might make things a little easier. No way the JTR headers would fit if my engine was even 1/2" forward of he current location.

BTW-for all you guys who can't see, I'm an ophthalmologist: call 256-760-1771 to schedule an appointment. You must be VERY OLD!

If anybody wants a specific picture, PM with your cell or email and I will try to send the photo in a larger file. Ill try to send the pictures in a larger file size in future posts.

Ill try but I I'm not very good with the computer.

Got droop limiter brackets mounted and ordered some straps, so that job is almost finished. Looks like 10" for back and 9" for front. V-bands, exhaust cutouts and various other exhaust parts arrived. Cutouts are from QTP. I'm gonna go ahead and order a set of Doug's Headers cutouts too and return the one I don't use. Seems each design has its merits and limitations. i have to remember, I'm runnning these to make noise first and power a distant second. Cleaned and painted front swaybar mount reinforcement and jacking plates. Painted cattle catcher. Swapped my front springs from 8" to 10" and raised front ride heighth 1 inch from where I had it before (being overly low looks cool but is a royal PITA. The fabricator made me another clutch master cylinder support rod-with only one on one side, the master cylinder was wagging like a dog due to firewall flex. Much better now. Pushed front camber plates all the way in, preparing for autocrossing hopefully in March.

That's right. I'm starting to try to plan on things breaking and trying to figure out how to limit collateral damage. I'm psycho about mocking things up 100 times before finalizing a plan and I ask other people questions beyond the point of being annoying. I'm hoping for good reliability this year. Pretty much going thru the car from top to bottom.

Definitely. Would you consider aluminum stronger? I'm definitely getting something new.