RebekahsZ

For the DC aspect- we aren't talking about 12V DC - like a cigarette lighter adapter-are we? Does the DC aspect of the power options make this unit more portable so I could use it with power from a car battery?

The LS1 PCM is HUGE! The LS2 PCM is nice and compact. That thing is almost as big as the battery!

Thanks. I thought it would be OK. Just have limited access to tig welders in my area. Gonna ceramic coat it. Thanks for giving me the wire specs, too.

If I plan to get the exhaust ceramic coated after it is built, is there any problem with welding 304 stainless V-band flanges to mild steel or aluminized exhaust tubing? I want the V-bands to be easy to assemble/dissassemble for many years to come, but I don't know anything about welding and metalurgy to know if there will be a problem with that welding interface with the dissimilar metals. I'm hopeful that regular gas-mig welding like exhaust shops use will be OK. Recommendations/suggestions?

Car is at Red Wrench Hotrods in Muscle Shoals, Alabama for welding work described above-I won't see it back for a week or two. Started thread looking for a favorite porta bandsaw to buy in prep for exhaust system fabrication. Ordered exhaust system parts: 2.5" v-band kits, 3.0" v-band kits, 2.5" stainless braided flex, un-coated JTR headers to modify for V-bands, QTP dual 2.5" electric exhaust cutouts with wiring harnesses and extra flanges. Have Borla XR-1 3" muffler already. Will wait to order mandrel bent tubing and hangars until car is back from fabricator. Plan is to use stainless v-bands and flanges to avoid rust in the connections, mild steel tubing (I'm finding tighter radius bends in mild steel than in stainless), then when entire system is mocked up I'll send/carry it out to JetHot or similar company for ceramic coating. Gonna be pricey.

Did you take any pictures of the cracks in your crossmember? JCI crossmember or home-built?

jnj-where's your water pump?

Gonna have this thing forever (or as long as it works). Can somebody help me decide between the merits of these three models? I used the Home Depot site for my information. All three of these are $299. 6232-6N 4-7/8" cut capacity 10.5 Amps. 6232-21 5" cut capacity 11Amps AC 6238-21 5" cut capacity 11 Amps AC/DC I don't know what the AC/DC spec means on the 6238-21. I'm planning to get the Swag portaband table attachment to allow me to mount this upright on my bench. I looked at the HF vetical/horizontal and it looks like a good deal, but I fight with my wife for garage space and I can't have anything that sits on the floor-everything needs to fit on my workbench.

Mama did good, too.

Nothing wrong with a stock mechanical pump for triple carbs.

Screw the flares-run it like it is! Love it.

Thanks guys! This is so much better than the reviews I've been reading on line from people I don't know or trust. The brand that Home Depot carries is Milwaukee. 2 years ago I bought a $129 Ryobi upright bandsaw and bought a metal cutting blade for it, but I have been very dissappointed with its performance and ability to keep a blade on track and make a straight cut. I'm going to look into this vertical/horizontal model that several of you have been talking about. Seems every brand of saw has some criticism on line with their ability to maintain the blade guide rollers. I've been doing fiber rotary cutting blades-I'm hoping this will be less time consuming and will allow me to be more accurate (and make less mess). Thanks for the recommendation on bees wax-I've been using either oil or water-and that gets messy quick, but at least it lets me get some cutting done with the flimsy Ryobi. The blade on it broke the other day and I can't find one locally. If I get a better metal saw, the Ryobi will become a wood only tool.

Gonna buy a portaband to build my own exhaust. Was in harbor freight and saw one for $84, then saw a Porterfield at Lowes for $299. I don't want to fight my tools but I don't want to throw away money either. Reviews? Favorite Portaband?

Yes, I should have measured it and marked it better than I did, but it is all bolted back together. The photo of the diff is the wrong size flange, I just included it so that folks would know that I was talking about the pinion flange and not an axle flange. The bolts are 8mm. If somebody has a flange that measures out with the meaurements I've given I'll take a chance and buy it. If it is wrong I haven't lost much-(surely/hopefully this won't be an expensive part). If it is correct it will make things a lot more convenient for me and I can keep my spare diff fully assembled and full of oil.

Please refer to the 2 attached figures. The measurements on the tracing are fairly accurate give or take a few mms. The photo shows which differential flange I'm looking for - it is the one on the front of the diff that the driveshaft bolts to. Seems every R200 has a little different pinion flange. The measurements on the paper reflect the flange that is compatable with my JCI driveshaft. I have two differentials that I hope to quick-change, so I need an additional flange. If you have what looks to be the right flange and you'll part with it-send me a PM and lets talk turkey.

I was wrong once before, but perhaps I was mistaken. Sorry I posted inacurate information-I did not do the bolt-to-bolt weight comparison of the bolts myself, but trusted the report of another. I only weighed the grade 5s when I got home with my loot. So glad you double-checked me, Snailed-thanks.

On the grade 8 bolts vs grade 5 bolt: I took the hardware store clerk's word for that-I haven't checked it myself-the difference might not be that big. But you can feel a big difference in your hand. It just made me stop and think: I'll only spend the extra money for grade 8 in those situations where high strength is really indicated. That's all I was trying to discuss.

Z car is at the welder's shop for about a week. Went to a gun show with a friend, worked in yard, took my family to dinner. It was weird. Maybe I'll try to get some parts ready to ebay tomorrow...maybe I'll take a nap. Maybe I'll ask one of the neighbors what my wifes' name is. Gotta take a little time to get to know her before the car gets back. I feel kind of sick, like my appendix has been removed or something...

1tuffz has mentioned using aluminum for exhaust tubing. Is this a pratical idea? I street my car some. When I add exhaust and a REAL rollbar, I'm gonna be break-even on performance after I add nitrous to keep the power to weight at the current level! johnc, i guess those 2" longer coil springs are gonna add a little weight too....now, if the driver could only lose 30 pounds....

Weight gain can be insidous. I went to the hardware store and bought the (8) 1" long 1/2" bolts and 1/2" nuts that I need to mount my droop limiter straps. I have a bit of a washer fettish, so I bought those too. I first grabbed grade 8 bolts, but out of curiosity, I grabbed a grade 5 bolt. I asked the hardware store attendant (we have a wonderful old-timey hardware store) to weigh one grade 8 bolt and one grade 5 bolt; the grade 8 bolt weighed 2.5X as much as the grade 5! I decided to get grade 5 since these bolts just hold nylon straps. Got home and weighed the 8 bolts that I bought with the washers and nuts: 2 pounds! If I had gotten grade 8, it might have been 4-5 pounds! I'm gonna need nitrous just to break even.

I've already done the 3.54 swap, but I can always change back.

Send a PM to CrayZ. He is in Houston, maybe he can give you some pointers. My LS2 came out of a salvage yard somewhere in Houston.

PM me an address and I'll send the puke bottle next time I pass the UPS store. Rebekah LOVES beef jerky. Please, no dirty jokes-I'm being sincere, that is what I put in every college care package I send her-she can eat a whole bag of beef jerky in one session. Sounds like a fair trade. Just load the box back up with jerky and send it back and we'll call it even! If only you ran a bacon factory, you'd be in like Flynn.

Zfan1-what size rear tires are those? I have 26" slicks and I'm wondering if I could go to 28". That might let me go back to my 3.90 gears; then I could just use 26" for 1/4 mile (6000rpm in 4rth) and 28" for 1/8th (? rpm in 3rd - gotta do more research). A lot easier swapping tires than swapping diffs.

I haven't started my car in 2weeks and it has been snowing today. Car started on first turn of the key. Never could have done that with my triple side drafts! Loving modern life.