RebekahsZ

I've noticed that a bunch of our newer members have trouble communicating. Is it possible that we are getting some "English as a second language" members or even folks who are great at wrenching but not so great at typing? Advice: if you do have trouble expressing yourself, or if you aren't finding your answers because you aren't the best at English or computers and using the search function (I'm not all that savy with searching myself), look for the top posters in your area of interest and do more with the PM (private message) function, going directly to an individual instead of broadcasting your difficulties to the world. You will get picked on less and will get more done in the garage. Most of us want to help, but I think the founders of this sight have a strong interest in keeping up the academic quality of the discussions and a certain level of respect and initiative among members. Feel free to PM me, then if theres is a problem I'll even give you my phone number if that works best.

Don't know anything about an OBX-I've only done the Z31 differential. I don't know anything about setting up any of the lash or gear engagement. I've only done an uneducated plug and play.

I guess shifting at less than 7300 rpm is out of the question?

Try 1.25 pitch

If the diffs are on your work bench, the easiest way to check the ratios is to pull the covers and look for the stamping on the ring gear. In fact, it is the ONLY way to be sure what your ratio is.

I usually direct my motor-only questions to LS1tech.com. The guys on this forum that have opened LS1s up the most seem to be: cable, wfritts911, SUNNYZ and ColtGT-something (I always get his screen name wrong). I'm sure there are others, too. I haven't even changed the junkyard sparkpulgs that came in my LS2. The only thing I actually have done to my motor was swap the oilpan.

I have to remove the calipers to change the Maxima pads.

Try adjusting your pedal or clutch fork for a little more disengagement.

Try adjusting your pedal or clutch fork for a little more disengagement.

Dude, if that's you sitting in the car, you got nice legs!

I love my maxima calipers because the e brake actually works really well. But they dont stop the car much when it is in motion. Is the problem with balance more of a pad size problem or a cylinder size problem, or is this a stupid question?

Machinist is in good shape. Mamas on Monday!

You play tennis too? When do you sleep?

What's woopie? Is that something you make in the kitchen? Never heard of it. How can you let something that sounds so trivial get between you and car work? I mean, how long can it take? A minute or two? Try warming it up in the microwave. Thank goodness my wife doesn't make me make woopie.

I concur with both concepts.

The cool thing is you can do anything you desire; just my experiences. I'm going thru the same "what if" thought process on roll bars. I would definitely do a bolt-on so you can change your mind. I really don't think that most of us need a strut bar on either end, but they look cool so we do them. My engine is in the way for one in front. I really only want a roll cage so that I can get my car certified for drag racing-you really only "need" a roll cage once.

Truck is in the shop, so I put Z-car on the ground and drove to work today. CLSD banged on first left turn, then on first right turn, then all was well, with no banging on trip to Subway for lunch. Car (seems) much more mellow with the 3.54. I don't have that much experience playing with different ratios, but it dropped rpms a lot. First gear now has a role to play. Time will tell how my 60' times suffer. If anybody falls in love with my differential puke tank, I had is custom made at Alabama Hose in Muscle Shoals, Alabama. Cost? I bartered for medical services (removal of metal from eye). I got the better end of the deal.

Elbow on fire? Is that kin to iron sliver jammed under fingernail-check?

I use the "back-up mode" of hybridz to tell me when it is time to go to bed each night. Kind of like a curfew.

To imagine how this happens, look at the housing of the CV that you have been calling the cage (the cage is actually the part that of the axle that mounts on the splined axle shaft, that you snap the balls into). The housing is the part that has those long grooves in it that the balls ride in. In a perfect world, the balls would ride in the middle of the grooves. If you measure from middle, that only gives you, what, 3/4" of travel either direction? If your axle is too short, it hammers itself to death. If your axle is too long, it overextends and falls apart. But, there has to be some (axial) movement in the system because the axle needs to be length self adjusting. If the length is correct, these axles rock-if too long or too short they are maddening.

Unfortunately, he might not be happy even if I don't screw up. Mama's never happy.

Oh, I don't have anything for scale in your photo-it is heavier than I thought. Ill try to copy you.

If you totally fill that gap you won't be able to get your axle in or out. There need to be some movement in the cv-just not too much.

Ophthalmologist.

Thanks! Do you think that long limber-looking design is rigid enough? I don't know.... There are two bosses on the tail-housing of the diff that a similar setup could be bolted too. But I don't know that I want to risk breaking my trans case. I'm betting a broken driveshaft is like having a tornado by the tail. For rules purposes are we supposed to have driveshaft loops for our 1/2-shafts too?