RebekahsZ

Get the tee fitting from a junkyard. Either flare nut is fine.

I like to install the strut housing, then build it up on the car - it gets hard to tighten things when you have one hand holding the strut and one hand working the wrench. Plus, that keeps the parts of the assembly lighter during the times when you have to lift it into place. You could put it in a vice, but then you have the vice rash to touch up. I can't see your photo (website is acting goofy for past 2 days), but you have to put a tire on or at least the brakes to torque the axle stub, etc. I can't recall how tall my springs are, but yeah, you don't want to get airborne. So far, in all my life, I've never gotten airborne in a car. However, one of my projects this winter is to make droop limiting straps to keep the springs from cocking on the shafts (I've had my coilovers for 10 years but never got to this until now), so it isn't that big of an issue. It can be a pain when you jack up the car and the springs, etc, fall down the shaft. You just have to be careful when you let it off the jacks.

Any progress? Why don't you assemble your diff with stock u-joint axles just to get some shake-down miles?

My favorite silly post lately has been replies to classifieds: "I buy that part in a heartbeat, if I had the money." Huh?? These are the same folks who voted in the current President (his name must go un-spoken): "I'd like to get paid, but I don't want to get off my butt and go to work." I mean, isn't it implied that those responding to a classified should have the money to buy the listed part or service? I should start a thread called "HybridZ is not Reality 101." Most of the guys I'm dealing with, however, are straight up. I'd much rather deal with somebody on this forum than with ebay, and very, very lastly craigslist. We really have a good community here - thanks Admins!

Sway bar?

Hey guys, will 22X16 wheels with a +93 offset fit inside stock 260zx fenders without rubbing? And, what's the best coilover kit to really slam my car (I don't really car if the car is driveable, I just want it to look really cool)? Show pictures and be really specific. Trick or treat!

PM sent

OK, SUNNY, it was 1.594, BARELY a 1.5 / mostly a 1.6 . The most recent 60' times are listed to 3 decimal points in my Motorsport thread, second to last post. You still got me beat by a wide margin! I'll post some 1/4-mile times on Sunday-hoping to be going thru the traps a few rpms below the rev-limiter. It will be my first time over 100mph on bias plies with 14psi in them. Expecting it to be a handful.

PM SunnyZ - he has had a set made by the Drive Shaft Shop and should be able to tell you how to contact them. They charged $600, which is $100 more than JMortensen at M2, but they did all the labor and provided all the small parts like boots. In my mind, having done this, that is $100 well spent!

I have same play. Should be ok.

It's been a while and I wasn't sure I remembered correctly. Hey, if there are any z-folks up there in NJ damp and freezing to death; it would make for a long commute, but I got two empty bedrooms.

See photo. Just a little inspiration for those who are up late trying to finish their conversions and those yet to begin. Tried to credit all who have made it possible, though I've undoubtably left folks out. JCI kit, JTR headers, MGW shifter, 26X8.5X15 MT ET Drag slicks (ColtGT..), 250# coilovers (Ground Control), Tokico Illuminas set on 1 (johnc), PT Cruiser bump stops (jnjdragracing/1QWICKZ), .4 degrees positive static camber via Modern Motorsport adjustable rear LCAs (rags?), DP camber plates (johnc), no rear swaybar (johnc), line-lock (Hurst), 2500 rpm 2-step clutch release (MSD/Red Wrench street rod shop/Charlie Hudnall). ManticER2 clutch kit (East Coast Performance) 3.90 R200 CLSD (CobraMatt), R200 Mustache bar (redleg?) with extra clutches (Savage42), RT diff mount, MSA poly bushings, and JMortensen shortened Z31 CV axles and companion flanges (JMortensen). Lots of encouragement from forum, especially (mnoel, SUNNYZ, and many others). 1.5 sec 60' at Pickwick Dragway, Michie, Tennessee. Enjoy.

I was planning to do this later, but I have a 2006 subi r180 3.90 CLSD, Beta Motorsports stubs, and wolf creek cv axles already assembled, all for sale. Pm me if interested. This would be a great package for the right buyer because it is all there and I have already put it on my car, and I drove around with it for about a month before going a different direction. I had no problems with it at all just decided to do something different. It won't be cheap.

Had same problem and it turned out to be burned contacts in my headlight combination switch. Cleaned the contacts and problem was solved. Are your dash lights out to? Take the plastic cover off your steering column and remove the combo switch. Then carefully bend open the 4 little tabs on the little combo switch box. Clean burned switch mechanism and reassemble.

Dude, make no apologies-that looks boss and super sano. Check some of the street rod suppliers like speedway for a radiator hose reducer or sleeve. This is a sleeve that fills up the gap between the smaller tube and the stock Ls sized hose. I know some hot rodders who have used them without trouble.

That is it. It has 2 spot welds to hold it on. I have a 72 240z which only has one strut on the hatch. Before I had my car painted, I had a second one put on the other side just to make the hatch stay up better. Well, after 10 years, my old painter's low-quality spot welds broke. I drilled it out and re-installed it with 2 pop rivets-I dabbed a little caulk into the holes in the pop rivets. 4 years later, it is still working.

That is it. It has 2 spot welds to hold it on. I have a 72 240z which only has one strut on the hatch. Before I had my car painted, I had a second one put on the other side just to make the hatch stay up better. Well, after 10 years, my old painter's low-quality spot welds broke. I drilled it out and re-installed it with 2 pop rivets-I dabbed a little caulk into the holes in the pop rivets. 4 years later, it is still working.

I had this problem on a non-z car years ago. The problem was mis-matched compound. For some reason the rears had more bite. I changed all the pads and the problem was solved.

I'm an ophthalmologist. Next piece of metal you get in your eye - I'll remove it for free on the hybridz discount. You just gotta drive to Alabama in your completed Z-car project. Glad you have time to get that car finished up!

Will try to get that out to you by UPS tomorrow. To figure out which wire on the fans to put to power, you can use some little jumper wires to your battery (be careful). You want those fans to pull, not push.

I have one of those steam fittings with the sight glass and the petcock that goes into the top radiator hose if you want it. I paid $55 plus shipping for it. I'd send it to you for $40 shipped if you want it.

I ran into trouble with clearance between the passenger side fan and the lower radiator hose tube such that I couldn't get a hose on. If you have the same problem, order a piece of aluminum tubing from speedway motors and have it welded on. I had a steam vent fitting put in the top tank while I was at it.

Leaned back in my chair and thanked God that I put a LSx in my Z instead of fooling around with a turbo L6. Had a beer and considered all the hard work I'd have to do to get it ready for the strip next week: get in, start it up and run 7s all day long without breaking a sweat.

How much was the Jet Hot? I already have ceramic coated Sandersons from JTR, but I want to cut off the flanges this winter and add V-band flanges. So, I'll want them re-coated. Tired of having to retorque them after every trip to the track.

Lookin good. Can't believe how fast you are going! It took me three days just to get my line lock wired!