RebekahsZ

What is the bottom emblem off of? I like it and might change my 240z emblem to that one, since my car has parts from so many other models on it. Subscribed for reply.

I get the same feeling every time I drive my z-car! (I must be getting too much Viagra spam)

See my latest post in the Motorsports forum "Learning to drag race a z-car." That's where I'm posting post-build experiences.

Bend & flare them yourself. It sucks at first but every one you do will be better than the last one. By the time you are done, you'll be a pro and have hands like a gorilla! Buy a $25 roll of 3/16 line tubing cutter and a flaring tool. Use a vice and watch a few videos on YouTube. Start with the short lines. Plan on buying a few flaring tools as they are cheap and fall apart. Luckily the z has all female flares and no bubble flares. YouTube search double flare. Double flare is less likely to crack. I know from experience.

Hey sunnyz, you capitalize God, especially on Sunday!

Now that is what I call LONG tube. What is the length?

No idea, but they are all about the same. Looks like a Ground Control type system which is what I have. And a generic camber plate. That's a great, traditional coilover system. Only way to know spring rates is to find a tag or marking on the spring or remove it and take it to somebody who can test it. Only way to know what kind of strut insert you have is to remove rhem and look-alot of dam n work. Looks like you have a great car-I'd drive the pee out of it!

No bull, your tires grew enough to rub?

Torque it just snug, don't bust the bushings. Put a second nut on each end as a lock nut. That is a swaybar end link.

We just trying to fit some 28" slicks in there! (Without raising ride height?) These light, torquey cars could handle some longer legs.

Yeah, the sound seems to come and go-that is the worst it has ever been/not like that today. I think it is from the clutch fingers on the throwout bearing. There is plenty of grease on the throw out bearing and on the slave housing. The clutch came with a little tube of grease for the splines on the input shaft, which I used sparingly.

A little video of the throwout bearing in action. Please restrain the off-color comments-that's my daughter helping me with the pedal. Also is a picture that shows how much clutch dust builds up on the throwout/slave assembly-little wonder our hydraulic fluid turns black. IMG_0752.MOV

Hmmmmmmm...A shame it would be to make your rear wheels look smaller by them stretching. Some consideration your should give to wider tires in the rear. Endeavor your should to mount intended flares and brakes, then plan wheel changes, since staggering wheels on a Z-car is largely a cosmetic exercise as opposed to a handling enhancement. The man you are to be able to make the intended wheel modifications. Recently did a friend of mine mount flares after buying wheels and made his car look goofy, he did. May the Force be with You.

I post so much, I'm always afraid the moderators will get me for pics too big. Use your screen controls to blow them up if needed. If there is something you want me to photo and send to you, I'd be happy to do it in a PM directly to you. Thanks for the compliments.

Any chance your exhaust shop wants to make extra long-tube headers?

Tranny to bellhousing: 37 foot-pounds, Bellhousing to engine: 37 foot-pounds. I wouldn't worry about a single bolt from the bellhousing to the oilpan-there's plenty of bolts on that thing. In fact, when you put a LS1 T56 on an old-school small block, you have to leave the top bolt out-there's no hole in the block for it! Looking good!

If you haven't changed anything, check ride height. A tired spring could drop that corner and ad camber. Lots of cars aren't "square" from the factory. On my truck I had to lower one corner a full inch more than the others to get equal ride height all the way around.

The flip side of that is my car where I pounded based on the recs of others and it was totally unnecessary. My ears are still ringing!

I recommend you go thru all the build threads and find somebody with your tranny and send them a private message. I asked same question a while back and never got an answer. Once folks finish their project they aren't on the forum as much. Also, most of us start with a 6-spd then change to automatic after breaking a bunch of axle parts. The guys I know have retrofitted to Turbo350s. If I ever retrofit it will be to a Powerglide because that is what the local hyperf tyranny shop specializes in. When I did my swap with a T56 I pre-hammered my tunnel by other folks recommendations. Turned out I didn't need to hammer at all. If I were you I'd bolt in the JCI mounts and hammer as needed rather than worrying about what others did.

Where'd you get it ?

Just some new pictures. I got a good deal on another set of draglites to make a set of street(rain) worthy "big-n-littles". Needed something to do with my old radial front runners since I'm racing with super light bias plys at the strip. Tire combo is 155/80/15 front, 235/60/15 rear.

OK. I'm a big fan and am just cheering you on, but I must be aggrevating you. I'm subscribed to all your threads - which one do you recommend that I follow and I'll get off the other ones. Don't mean to be annoying.

I quit keeping track of the receipts a while back-it only caused me pain. Ignorance is bliss!

He may be onto something, though. You are a good enough fabridator to consider making your own diff cover that used 2 studs like an R200. I've seen some 8.8 diffs with bolts out of the back (are they "girdle" support bolts)? I was thinking maybe one of those covers could be modified....but I've never held one in my hand. Just thinking along with you and cheering you on! I don't know if you saw his post in the Member Projects section, but Matt blew up his R230 last weekend at Barber Motorsport road racing it. Nothing is too strong to break.

Funny, I still have the same spark plugs that came in my donor motor!