RebekahsZ

Go to Betamotorsport.com and look at pictures for the EMI camber plates. They push the top of the tire IN, which is what I think you are trying to do. I have these and they are 100% bolt in and are great-require NO cutting, NO slotting. I have had the eccentric bushings that you refer to. Couple of problems with them: 1) noisy, 2) I was always worried about them rotating and misaligning. The EMI camber plate is easy to install, but it has limitations too. 1) it assumes that you have 2.25 inch coils (or perhaps they are 2.5 inch - I can't remember) and 2) it may require getting different shocks. I have tokikos and 2.25 inch springs. If you have stock springs, the eccentric bushings may be the best you can do, but they really don't give you that much camber. A coil-over kit is the best investment you will make to your z-car.

I need a confindence boost before I screw the wrong threaded pipe into the JCI oil pressure adapter (mounts down at the oil filter). Can anyone confirm that the threads in the adapter and that the threads in the Datsun oil pressure sender are 1/8" NPT? I've bought some brass pipe from my local Lowes to get he sender out from under the headers, but I want to be sure that the pipe thread is correct before I put torque to the tubing and strip out the threads or crack the adapter.

Sorry, I didn't explain my question well. What are the thread pitch/size on the oil pressure sender adapter in the JCI kit, and what are the thread pitch on the Datsun oil pressure sender? I bought some 1/8 NPT brass tubing at Lowes and the threads start fine, but I'm afraid to torque down on it until I know that those are the correct threads. I hate trashing threaded assemblies - any help out there?

Here's my pics. Concur with wheels/tires under car. Might save your life.

Cable, can you run that by me again? Maybe it's me....talk slower, I'm in Alabama.

Lack of strong places to put a jack is a real deficiency of these cars. My car is about 5 inches off the dirt at the rocker panels, so much of the undercarraige is less than 3 inches from the floor. I have an airdam, so I can't get to the front crossmember (which is the strongest part of the whole car). I use a $59 Hargor Freight aluminum low-profiile jack and I have padded the handle because I have a knack for smacking my paint with it. For the back, I jack from the differential. For the front, I have to turn the front wheels away from the side I'm jacking, then I place the jack on a little flat spot under the TC-rod mount (about the only heavy steel on the frame rails. My frame rails have little bends all over them from prior owners jacking and bending; the metal is too thin. I then place my jack stands under the front cross member with a 2X4, then let the car down and start swapping the location of my jack and jack stands until I have a jackstand on each TC rod mount (takes about 15 minutes to get car on jackstands). On the back, I put the jackstands on my swaybar mounts. I just picked up some 1/4 inch steel to make jack plates on the front frame rails so that I can start jacking the car up quicker. I would not jack from the rocker panels on a car with paint that I cared about; mine were all kinked up from previous owners before I replaced them. Watch your jackstands for tipping and reposition them as you go with a rubber hammer. If you drop the whole rear suspension as a unit while the engine is in the car, you will want some extra jackstands under the front crossmember. When the suspension comes down, the weight of the engine will lift your car right off the rear jackstands and you will either drop your car or pee your pants while holding down the back of the car and screaming for your wife to help you. Of course, that has never happened to me....and of course it wasn't at 3am on a Sunday night in a pouring rain.

L24 is out and on rolling stand; Have LS2/T56 on rolling stand with camaro pan/windage tray/dipstick installed. Have A/C and P/S off. Used a neat dummy power steering pump from nookandtranny.com that allows me to use original serpentine belt (With the simple ribbed idler pulley replacing the smooth one, I was afraid of the proximity of the belt to the lower alternator bolt (even when I ground the head down to 11mm). So, belt system is all squared away. Have installed JCI front mounts, but having trouble with long mount on driver's side (too tight in the Datsun engine mount tower-will need to grind some off spacer washer or JCI mount). The little TC rod cup washer is pretty rusty and seems kind of pointless (do I weld it or epoxy it to the JCI mount?) - so I'm probably going to buy some adjustable TC rods that will replace the rubber bushings with a metal bearing. Mr. Coffey says I need more caster, so I'll kill 2 birds with one stone. Have relocated driver side brake line and as I HATE brake fluid, I'm going to get all my brake line relocating done next to have that behind me. Anybody object to my plumbing front and rear brakes directly from master cylinder and eliminating the little housing that turns on the brakes idiot light - I haven't had the wire connected for 10 years and I don't think it does anything else)? I have cut/ground out the tran tunnel ears (I still can't hear and can't get thru airport security). I'm trying to work up the courage to cut off the throttle linkage on the firewall since I'm using the DBW pedal. All this cutting is pretty hard on me..this car has been my baby for 18 years and I feel like I'm cutting out it's soul. I know it sounds funny, but I spent a lot of hours getting the stock throttle linkage to work perfectly with my triple sidedrafts and now it is in a cardboard box; the custom stainless exhaust I pulled off the car was beautiful. My modified 240z tank is about half finished. I took some pics of the inside of it before the fabricator closes it back up. I should be done sometime this summer. Appreciate all the expert advice the forum is giving me - priceless. Plan is to assemble everything for a test fit and then pull it all down, paint and reassemble. The coating on the JCI stuff looks like it will be rusty very quickly and I figure I'm going to spill a lot more brake fluid before this is all over. Taking LOTs of pictures hoping to contribute to forum.

Perfect. This was just the advice I was looking for. I will comply with your recommendations. Does the LSx PCM/ECU have a rev-limiter function?

New to electronic engine control and electronic fuel injection, so I need some help with my LS2/T56 install into my 240z. 1)What is the difference between an ECM and a PCM? I have a Helms manual and cant find a reference to PCM, but it is discussed all over this forum. 2) Here is a list of sensors that I can find in the engine manual: ECT-engine coolant temp sensor, IAT-intake air temp sensor, HOS-heated oxygen sensor (one on each header and one on eaah catalytic converter, EVAP solenoid, CKP-crank position sensor, CMP-cam position sensor, KS-knock sensor, APP-accelorator pedal position, LS oil pressure sender, LS water temp sender, TP-throttle position sensor, VSS-vehicle speed sender, Transmission gear position, Skip Shift, Reverse solenoid, check engine light, diagnostics port. Did I miss anything? What computer and harness mod company do each of you like and what problems have you had? What senders/sensors do I eliminate? What instructions should I give the programer/modification company? This is the part of the project that has me most intimidated. I've spent hours/weeks searching this...

Are the threads on the oil pressure sender and the JCI adapter all NPT? 1/8 or 1/4?

I like these coil relocation brackets in the post above, but how do you organize and route the wires so that they clear the JTR headers? The stock coil location is awesome for plug wire organization. I've seen the coil brackets, but does anyone have a lead on some nice looms for routing the wires? I don't want to burn my wires up!

$6500 for pullout 2006 GTO LS2/T56, 17,866 miles. In my area of Alabama, when a car comes into a salvage yard it is dismantled immediately. The LSx engines I could find in the warehouses of the salvage yards had all been stripped of all accessories: starter, alternator, wiring and had no pedals, computer, etc. And, I couldn't get any of the salvage yards to take a special interest in me and look for a car that I could get to before it was dismantled. The aftermarket motor and trans you refer to may not have any accessories either, so I didn't want to get nickled and dimed to death on parts of unknown age/mileage. It seems that everytime I try to save money, I wind up with something "cheap" that doesn't work. Prices have gone down just since I bought my engine-I'm seeing several packages for around $4k on ebay today. There are some issues with the GTO motor/trans that makes it more expensive to install than the F-body motor/trans. Add up the price of accessories, clutch, pressure plate, etc, and I think you will break-even when comparing a pull-out to piecing something together. Other guys will differ with me, but they are probably better mechanics and are willing to spend more time. For me, time and money are the same thing.

I searched for a thread on this and can't seem to find one. This is for drag racers or folks who just like to burn tires. Here are some pictures of my line-lock roll-control system on my 72 240z. I use it primarily to control movement of the car in the burn-out pit. Car has manual trans. I got the Hurst system from Jegs on-line. The system is actuated by pushing hard on the brakes, then pushing a momentary switch on my shifter handle; this locks fluid pressure in front brake lines. I can then release the brake pedal and do my burn-out. Release the button and the brakes again work normally. Little light on dash tells me system is engaged. Pics attached. Open to questions. Looking for in-put on how to install a 2-step rev limiter for LS2/T56.

I am at about the same stage where you are but with an LS2. I am modifying a 240z tank to mimic a 280 tank to limit chassis fabrication and fuel guage trouble. I am having a re-sealable service access port put in it to be able to open it and clean it out if it gets dirty (again) or if I need to add and change fuel cell foam. I will use 3/8" hard line thru the stock fuel line blocks on my 240z which runs thru the trans tunnel (not as convenient as 280z which is on floor pan). Your lines look good, I would use them. I have talked to guys running the stock sized 280z hard lines without any trouble. The reason some guys flip the fuel rail is to switch which side of the car the inlet is on. I plan to have AN6 fittings welded on my fuel lines and only use flex lines for short sections. There is a local hose shop in my town that will braze/weld them for me and make my flex lines to order. I will mount my Walbro 255, a corvette fuel regulator/filter after the pump, and a see-thru filter between my tank and my pump. All of this will be mounted on a plate bolted to my tank. I don't think I will need any other regulator beyond the corvette filter/regular (anybody?). So I only plan to run a single 3/8 line up to my engine. The 5/16 return line will be short, just running from the filter/regulator back into the tank. No return from engine bay, since regulator is in back. Speedway Motors has an MSD fuel pump, corvette regulator and fuel fitting package that is priced cheaper all together than you can buy the individual pieces. I thought about putting a fuel filter sock on my pickup inside the tank, but then I can't service it without dropping tank if it gets dirty. No one likes see-thru filters, but it is on suction side of pump so in my mind it won't see high pressures. For the trans mount, I would just chop it off and drill new holes. I welcome feedback on my plan from the forum because I haven't done it yet.

Last two guys posting: Thanks a ton, especially for the great pictures. Really nice tank, really great pics. But, that is a 240z/260z tank for carbureted applications. The 280z tank looks very similar to the 240z/260z tank but has fuel pickup and return lines on the bottom of the tank near the center. The tank I need has a circle the size of a dinner plate on the top of it and no vent line near the muffler. I really appreciate the replies. Put that tank in the for sale section and it will sell in a hurry.

There was a question about which vents are required. I recently had a 240z carbureted tank modified to remove some of the vent lines to make installation cheaper and easier. I also had it cut wide open, cleaned and coated. Now, this is my opinion only. The vent line near the muffler is unnecessary - it was eliminated on the 280z tank. Only one vent is needed at the top of the tank at its highest point. I removed all but the front vent line because 3/8" fuel hose fits it nicely. An in-line Fuel-Safe rollover valve fits in a 3/8" hose, too. I ran the vent line from that front fitting thru the frame rail into the inner fender as high as possible, then down thru one of the holes in the inner fender to a level just below the tank bottom where I installed a little Fuel-safe air filter. My garage does not fill with fumes and my fuel filter is spotless. I do have to fill the tank a little slower than I used to in order to get it completely full, but aside from that it is great. Perhaps 3/8 is too small for the vent line? I am in the process of having a 280z fuel tank modified in the same way, except I plan to put a removeable access hole in the top for future maintenance/cleaning.

I need a recommendation for a new serpentine belt for an LS2 motor with A/C delete and power steering delete. I will use stock alternator as the only accessory and plan to use stock pulleys and idlers. I have Autozone, O'Reilly's and Advance Auto in my area. No NAPA or Crow Burlingam in my town. I've spent several blocks of time searching the topic and have come up dry, so I hope I am not asking a redundant question.

I recommend more scotch and less exacto knife. Everything always looks better with more alcohol on-board. We better stop or the administrators will get us...

Now I'm going to have to get out a dictionary.

Duplicate by mistake.

Thank you fellas. It is great having a forum to help each other. If anybody needs any help with eye surgery, give me a shout.

I took my tach out of the dash Friday and mailed it to JCI for recalibration for LS2 conversion. Other than pulling the tach, I haven't done anything else, and it still has the L24 in it. Tried to start car today to get to the table saw on the other side of it and it won't start. It was cold last night and I haven't bothered my daughter to turn the key while I checked spark, but I'm hoping for an easy answer from the smart experienced folks on the forum rather than standing in the freezing cold trying to figure it out. Straight Question: If all else is fine, should my 240z start and run with the tach removed or is it somehow in the ignition circuit?

Wanted: 1975 or 1976 280z EFI fuel tank for LS hybrid conversion. Will go in a 240z with full-size spare tire well. Limit dents and rust please, but I plan to cut open and modify, inspect and coat it before installation, so perfection not required. Location is Florence, Alabama.

Anybody used the universal muscle-car pan kit from Jegs?