RebekahsZ

Need oil pan, windage tray, pickup, dipstick tube and dipstick from a 1998-2002 Camaro or Firebird for LS Swap.

Do you still need a GTO oil pan set up? I need a Camaro pan set up. Perhaps we can trade? Will have a GTO set up this week.

Drove out and looked at an LS2/T56 with 43k miles yesterday. Will look at a LS2/T56 with 17k miles on Thursday. Price difference is $500. Has anybody used Jegs' universal LS swap oilpan package? It includes pan, windage tray, pickup, gasket, bolts and washers, dipstick and dipstick tube for $158 plus shipping.

Great stuff! I have just let an engine supplier know that I'm looking for an LS2/T56 from an '05/'06 GTO. Everybody has been great. Will order from JTR and JCI when engine/trans is on-hand. Thanks to everybody. I'll post what I learn.

I am starting this process and will try to keep reciepts, part numbers and suppliers for the forum. Will try to take pictures too, but that gets messy, so I may skip or limit the pictures. My goal is to provide a basic "cook book" for a basic LS swap into a Z-car, but also to be very specific. I'm finding a few guys on the forum who are helpful. Have you made any progress on your project?

I recently had my stock tank cleaned out and removed all but one of the vent lines. My tank was filthy and I couldn't get all the scale out of it after two trips to have it boiled out. Found a local hot-rodder who filled it with exhaust off of the tailpipe of his truck and cut two big windows in the top of it. He cleaned it out completely and welded the two big windows back up. I was tired of spending so much for NOS vent lines every 10 years after having them stink for 5 years, so I got him to cut off all the vent lines except the one at the top closest to the fuel level sender and weld patches over the holes. He sealed it with some red stuff and I installed it. Ran a 3/8 inch hose from the remaining vent line up into the fender where the old evap tank was. It has a Fuel Safe rollover valve installed (it literally shoves into the fuel line). Then the vent line comes back down out of the inner fender and I had it open at the level of the bottom of the tank with a Fuel Safe Filter on the end of it. Works great. Yes, as some forum members warned, it does require slower filling of the tank above the 1/2 way point, but I can completely fill the tank and it is working fine. Only thing I would do differently is install a 90-degree bend on the remaining vent fitting on the tank. That line requires an immediate 90-degree bend to go thru the frame rail and it is a real pain to get it to turn witout kinking. I've had lots of guys tell me that you need all those vent lines, but you don't.

I talked to an LS supplier in my region. Barry at bksautoliquidators@yahoo.com. Anybody dealt with him? He specializes in wrecked LS GTOs. He is about 2 hours away and can deliver the drop-out. Question: Is the GTO T56 compatable with the JCI mounting system and driveshaft? Is the Camaro/Firebird T56 any different from the GTO T56? Any preferences?

Have any of you installed an LS engine with a new, clean, stock radiator? Has anyone tried this, and suffered from overheating before going to an aluminum unit? Has anyone retained the stock fuel lines-are they truly inadequate? Has anyone retained the stock fuel tank and just added an aftermarket high-pressure fuel pump, filter and regulator? If so, was the stock wiring to the fuel pump ok? What is my best option for a "stand-alone" engine wiring harness and ECU? Have any of you actually broken your R180 before switching to an R200? Specific experiences from builders/racers only please.

I really appreciate the suggestions. I put the pictures of my car on my lead post to try to discourage folks from telling me about all the distracting things that will waste money and time. The car has great brakes with racing pads and stops on a dime, a full coilover system with camber plates. It has a new LSD with rebuilt axles and u-joints. It has all new hardware on the drivetrain. It has a clean gas tank, a new and serviceable fuel system with clean lines. I have never experienced fuel starvation (or slosh) while autocrossing or drag racing. I have run an electric fuel pump before so all the wiring is there and I should only have to switch to a high pressure unit. The chassis is clean, rust free and all insullation has been removed. It has no interior save for seats, rollbar and dashboard. I have owned and raced this z for 17 years.

I am interested. Stainless rocks. I hate getting rust flakes in my eyes when under an old car, and I am always under mine. Went to stainless years ago and won't consider anything else in the future. I would love to see a sketch of how you will run the cut-outs. With my Borla XR1 muffler I can't hear my car at all when I line up against a purpose-built drag car with open exhaust. I have been left at the lights thinking that my engine had died wasn't running. Loud pipes may make hp, but in certain situations they make you a better driver too. For my LS swap, I was thinking about shorty headers with electric cut-outs going thru the fenders into the front wheel wells simply due to space constraints. Can't wait to see what you come up with.

Last post of the night (central time zone). Just read entire LS Truck motor thread. Manual trans is mandatory for me; all else is optional. I don't see many adds for COMPLETE T56 assemblies with a clutch and pressure plate, but I may not be looking in the right places... What do you think about a 5.3 w/ LS6 cam kit, LS6 intake and a T56 with some sort of electronics to make it work? Would I be better piecing that together or just buying a 2002 Camaro pull-out? Also, is the 5.3 oil pan good for 240z, or am I looking for a 2002 Camaro pan either way? If dollars were equal would you go Camaro LS1 or GTO LS2 with a Camaro oil pan kit? I'm old enough to know that this car will always will suffer some compromises as a road race / drag car. It will never be great at either, but is already respectable as both (for a n/a 2.4L). Already very quick around the cones, and the guys at the dragstrip love my cute little sissy car, but I don't want to be in the 10-second 1/8th mile bracket anymore!

Cable: Thanks. Have seen your header thread. I'll look at the truck thread and PM you if I can figure out how. Direct is good. Thanks.

Interesting about the fly by wire, hadn't considered that; was mostly thinking about 400hp/400lbstq...Lets consider the the opposite end of the spectrum: 5.3 iron block with a 5-speed and a carburetor kit: Is there a no-brainer kit to allow joining the 5.3 with a 5-speed and fitting it in a 240z? If there is, we may be onto something. I can get a 5.3 at a wrecking yard near my house for $800 with no accessories. But, a nice carb is $500 and the manifold and control box is $800. A clutch kit will be about $500 and a fresh 5-speeds is $1400...Now I'm at over $4k...which really isn't bad if compatible parts are available so that I don't get bogged down in a bunch of parts that won't work together...

Shopping for a drop-out. I want to go fast without having to modify the donor motor/trans. Is a 2005/2006 6.0 GTO LS2/T56 a good drop-out unit to use? Any swap problems/issues with this model compared to others? Is there a better power vs. dollar LSx unit to use? Any issues with the belt-driven accessories or oil pan, etc? I have a source within 1-hr drive.

I am about to start the project of putting an LS/T56 in the 240Z I have owned and worked on for 17 years. This is a street-legal track car that is shiny on top and bottom, but gets driven very hard at events. I'm looking for a mentor who has done one or more LS swaps. I will buy an engine/trans drop-out in November and start collecting parts, hoping to start hard into the swap in January. I want to do a straight-forward, clean install, hoping to keep it as simple as possible with the goal of being at the local drag strip in the Spring with drag/autocross throughout the summer. I want to keep it simple and avoid making avoidable mistakes and spending money on things that really don't matter, but I don't mind spending money to save time and aggrevation. Clean fit and finish desired. Body, interior and chassis is already sorted out. I want to alter my stock wiring and fuel system as little as possible. No posers, punks or tire-kickers, please - only answer posts if you know what you are talking about.

Turbo "Swashtica" wheels fit great. I've seen 235-60-15s mounted on the back w/ stock springs and stock fenders. I currently have 155-80-15s on the front of mine and 225-50-15s on back. Rim is 6 inches wide and is fine for these size tires. I run it front and back.

Just finished installing EMI Camber Plates from JohnC at BetaMotorSports. Totally a VERY EASY bolt-in project if you already have coil-over struts with small diameter springs. Make sure to take your struts apart ahead of time, get a caliper to measure and send John the actual dimensions of your struts before ordering, (you never really know what you have until you take it apart, and you may need custom shims for your application - which EMI can make to your spec or strut part number). I am very happy with the improvement in my car's handling. No clunking or noise; no vertical or lateral play in system. Car has stopped pushing in corners and I can't wait till the next autocross. This was a fully bolt-in job with NO cutting required. I really can't see any reason to go to the trouble of modifying your strut towers when such an easy bolt-in system is available. It took 2 weeks to get the parts on my doorstep (EMI had to be modify the bearing to fit my "mystery" strut rods) and about 2 hours to install them. Pushing the top of the tire in also gave me more room for tires; currently have 7" rims, can easily go to 8" without rubbing, cutting or flares. PM me for details.

Can anybody send me a picture of their installed EMI camber plates? Shoot the picture from inside the engine compartment. I just want to see what they look like when properly installed. I'd like to see a photo from a car with about 3 degrees negative camber, and johnc's recommended 5 degrees caster. Goal is autocross. My suspension has bumpsteer spacers, coil-overs, eliptical aluminum/delrin LCA mount bushings in the stock LCA, and aluminum/plastic T-C rod bushings in place of the rubber on the stock T-C rod. Shocks are Illuminas. I just ordered a set and I want to get the static install done properly so my alignment man doesn't have much to do as I have limited alignment shop options and a full-time job so I can look over his shoulder. Prefer limited advice and comment, but a photo of the upper tower and bolt arrangement for approximate alignment would be a real help and greatly appreciated.

Just finished installing a Hurst Roll Control system. All the local tracks are open again for the spring and I'm hoping to get to strip Sunday. John's axle stubs have performed flawlessly thru testing last fall and winter and I'm looking forward to some better 60 foot times with the improved traction that my CLSD provides. Anybody else finished the conversion?

Winter is just about over here in Alabama and the tracks are starting to re-open. I'm looking forward to getting my Z back on the track with John's axle stubs and my new Subi LSD. The latest pictures from the machine shop look great. Guy's, you are going to love this LSD conversion! It is simple and bullet-proof. Just finishing up installing a line-lock (AKA roll-control) and a drifting hydraulic handbrake in my 240z. If anybody needs hints on how to do these mods feel free to PM me.

I just bought a Blackworks hydraulic handbrake to put in my 240z to help me toss the rear end. Anybody put one of these in? I need help with the line fitting sizes required. Ive tried 10mm and SAE and neither starts smoothly. I don't want to wreck the threads trying to force the fittings together. Anybody know what size fittings to use? Mounting the brake was easy.

I'm afraid that you guys are making this too complicated. Here is how the swap goes. Your Subaru rearend (call it whatever you like) is relatively new. The seals are probably fine. The rear cover is the same. Leave the thing alone. Pull the output flanges with a puller or two leavers (screwdrivers work). Put John's new output flanges in - light tap with hammer and block of wood. Take your Z input flange off with an impact wrench, a 27mm socket and a gear puller. Do the same with the Subaru flange. Put the Z input flange on the Subaru input shaft and torque it as best you can (spec is 125 ftlbs). Put oil and LSD lube in the Subaru differential (1 quart). Put the differential in the car and hook up the half-shafts and drive shaft with the original hardware. Go racing. The rear cover studs are longer on the Subaru diff. Swap them if you can - mine were in too tight. I left them. It made for a bit more wrestling, but I still got it in. This is a 1-day job tops - a couple of hours if you are good and have the tools I listed.

Removed and inspected betamotorsports' prototype WRx R180 CLSD to Z-car (adapter) axle stubs yesterday after drag racing with them this winter. Found no wear or cracks - they look as good as the day I installed them. Had no leakage around the seals - the specifications and machine work are perfect. I'll let JohnC do the official promotion for these, but I can tell you that I am very pleased with this product and I have two, equally long, black streaks leading from my driveway that attest to my enthusiasm. This is a simple, cost-effective way to make a dramatic improvement in the performance of your Z. Feel free to pm me for questions about the installation - it was really easy and I don't work on cars for a living.

Want to install front wheel line-lock kit for drag racing, asap. Anybody got experience installing one himself? Looking at Hurst kit, but worried about possible need for metric brake lines and fittings. Need sources and how to plumb and wire into a 72 240z? Desire plan and supplies before starting. No hecklers or wantabees please, just experienced advice.

Mine was a buy-now price of $480 with free shipping from ebay. Have seen several sell for $400 - $500.