RebekahsZ

It seems the alterator that I got out of a junkyard is giving Hannah trouble. I got her on the phone and she said that she wasn't sure if the camaro plug was going to work. He alternator that I found was on a shelf at the junkyard was unmarked. It uses the same mounting system, but has a slotted back cover as opposed to the big vent tube that everybody has to trim. Fits like a champ, but Hannah isn't sure how to modify the LS2 harness to make it plug in and work. Just as well, it is hotter than hades here in Alabama right now and my daughter just backed into my truck in the driveway bending the bumper and radiator support and destroying the grill. The wife's kitchen remodel is moving right along. Garage is all jammed ful of the old cabinets until the new ones arrive. Got to have this car done before it gets cold again.

Have obtained Sean Schlapi's (Las Vegas) rear disc brake conversion which uses 85 Maxima calipers. Also obtained a second set of 85 Maxima calipers and hoses. Now to order Porterfield pads and have a bracket made that allows 2 calipers for each rear wheel. Pics when available.

For me, Auto Zone had a loop of the correct size (5/8 to 3/4) on the shelf.

I'm straight north of you in Florence, AL, about 7 hours away from you. I have a buddy in Pensacola who I visit a few times a year. If I ever get my LS2/T56 done, we will have to link up. Last year with my L24 and CLSD, I was having trouble with wheel spin before I went to drag radials and that pretty well took care of it. I was finally letting clutch out fast from up to 6,000rpm and had no wheel spin when tires were hot, still spun if they were cool. We have 4 really friendly local to pick from. You'd be welcome to try out my drag radials on a hand full of passes.

What was your wheel spin like? Were you hooking up or just spinning like crazy?

Just went thru this and wrote a little thread. 5/16 is so close to 8mm that I can't tell any difference. Metric has some weird spec (10.9) that isn't the same as "grade 8," so I went with 5/16 grade 8 bolts. Had to order them long and cut them off to be correct length and have a long enough shank. Source and part numbers are in the thread. Thread is located on page 2 of this forum entitled: Driveshaft Bolts for JCI driveshaft

Really loud and feet get REALLY hot on longer trips. The hot right foot is really a problem. I removed my interior because I couldn't keep rainwater out of car. Now rainwater comes in, but dries fast with no moldy smell or rust. The heat is a bigger problem than the noise.

I have the prototype set of stubs in a 3.90 STi CLSD R180 that I am happy with. I'm putting in an LS2. Would consider trade of diff and/or stubs for an R200 CLSD. Otherwise I'm gonna keep them and run them until something breaks.

Have really nice steel hood with zero rust, one smooth, minor dent, shouldn't be a problem to have fixed when having car painted. Originally off '74 260z. Smooth 240z-style hood with no vents. All z-car hoods interchange. Part is located in Florence, Alabama 35633. It is not worth it to me to crate it or ship it. I don't want to put it outside to rot because of the cracked paint where the dent is, but I need the room in my shed. I went carbon fiber, so I don't need it. Bring your pickup, come and get it and it yours for free. I'd ask for a case of beer, but it makes my head hurt.

Phantom-I have been following most of your posts. As you recommend, I will try using the stock fans with a 4-core stock radiator. Waiting now for return of engine harness from wait4meperformance. I am hopeful to run fans off of that harness, but Hannah at wait4me has been kind of cryptic with my questions about the fan operation and has stopped returning my email questions. Maybe she is just on vacation. I'm gonna just wait on the harness and see what comes back. She gets good reviews from experienced hybridz folks and I think my questions may just make for a hassle for her. I will certainly be PM-ing you when I get to that stage.

Related, but a little off topic. If one uses a high-mount alternator, is the long "bar" on the left side needed for the LS swap, or could one just use the right-side JCI mount system on both sides? This might be a good question for Cable since he has a thread on hgh-mount alternators. I don't know, maybe the long bar is needed to relocate the left engine mount for steering shaft clearance? I'm just thinking about ways to create header room....

Grim, the K-Sport hydraulic handbrake is a total POS. I bought one and it fell apart. If you do a hydraulic handbrake, go with the one from CNC - it is a quality piece. No lie, the K-sport handle bent like a taco on my second pull.

Want to try hybridz before paying for new. Looking for 3.5 or 4 inch front rims too, but they are pretty easy to come by. 15X7 only - 15X8 won't fit with lowered 240z (have tried it). Tires not needed, already have them. OK if already drilled for bead-lock. If interested, email pkeiththompson@yahoo.com.

You have got to have the prettiest rear-end on the planet. ...Did that sound a little funny? Seriously, think about putting a plexiglass window in floor your back hatch - seems crazy to put all that powder coating where nobody can admire it. At least put some mirrors on the floor of your garage. Looks great, hang in there and for goodness's sake, don't scratch anything!

Have fun with YOUR car and to hel_ with what anybody else thinks! I just got 2 hours of incredible top-down seat time in a couple of 427 Cobra replicas on a cool night with the moon shining and the Big Dipper overhead. I've heard people bash replicas with fiberglass bodies, etc. Let them bash away while we have all the fun.

I guess the reason I am going to try the Maxima caliper (cast iron) is that somebody else has worked out the compatability problems of rotor size, caliper mounting, bracket spacing. I'd kind of like to stay out of the scratch design process until I have some other projects behind me: like my total renovation of the first floor of my house, LS2 swap, etc. Not to mention trying to stay married and the day job, too.

Probably. Really, I am a poor enough driver that I doubt I'll notice any handling problems that I can blame on the car. I am hoping the mod will allow me to induce oversteer on command. The tracks I run on are basically parking lots and top speed in only in the 60s-I think I'll be fine. But the box the kit came in is really heavy. I'll try to do a weight comparison when I get the wrenches flying.

This job totally sucks-what was Nissan thinking!!! Aaargh! Anyway, the bushings are rubber-I don't think the loss of a little material will matter a bit. Bolt it up and run it!!

Does anybody know of a caliper that comes WITHOUT a parking brake mechanism that shares the mounting bolt spacing with the Maxima caliper? This would be for my drifting caliper. My kit from Las Vegas has arrived. I'll give a report on it when I get out the tools, perhaps this Sunday. The picture shows the goal.

Boy from Oz: take a sweater or a jacket. It is COLD in the evenings in Monterey. I moved to "sunny California" fron Virginia once while I was in the Army and froze my differential off! 1tuffz, et al: don't feel any pressure from me on the headers. I will continue my build based on the JTR headers until I hear differently from you. I will keep $1000 set aside so that I am ready to go if a product comes out of your efforts. I am in no hurry-take your time.

225/50/16 Kumos (cheap) all 4 corners. EMI camber plates in front with 3 degrees camber-plenty of room all the way around. Rears have no camber plates, but have them in a box to install-wheels would scrub on outside of fender at a good sized bump without them. I think a few degrees of camber will solve the problem as it moves top of the tire IN. Will get to it when I get car off jackstands on this infernal LS2 swap! Thanks for the compliment.

I messed around with connecting and disconnecting my rear bar last year and it did not help me connect my rear wheels with the ground. I even took my front bar off to try to help with understeer and did all kinds of tire pressure changes. Didn't help. Unless you are restricted to an open diff, go with the Wrx CLSD and you will solve your tire spin problem immediately-and it is soo easy. Even if you are restricted by class, no one will care unless you beat last year's champion at Nationals. The DP camber plates are So easy, and you just can't screw it up. I'd go that way before taking a drill to my cross member (I would screw it up and drill it crooked! Do what you want though, either way it is pretty easy to back-track and put it back the way it was. Go for it! I'm just afraid that you will do that mod and not accomplish anything significant. The camber plates will solve your pushing problem unless you are just going too darn fast into the turn. Last driving tip: are you braking as you are turning? Try braking, then turning. Go really slow-you only lose time in a 180, you never gain time there.

You sound just like me a year ago. I had both problems. John Coffey at Beta Motorsport solved my problems. 1) EMI or DP bolt-in camber plates: amazing. Car totally stopped pushing even with stock TC rods. This was a true bolt-in camber plate without any tower mods or cutting. There is no reason to put off installing these plates. Took a few hours to install, then go get alignment. 2) WRx CLSD with Beta Motorsport snap-in stub axles. Another easy bolt-in job. Budget a day for this mod. PM John and spend about $1500 total and your problems will be fixed. My car is SOOOO much faster AutoX-ing; a totally different handling machine. LSD is amazing! Now I need to learn how to drive up to the car's potential!

Resized. Sorry guys.

See my "Drifting Hydraulic Handbrake" thread. Pics there. Plumbing of the first reply you got (going thru firewall) is a LOT simpler than mine. I use my ash tray as a drink holder (fits coke can perfectly), so I didn't want to do what the other guy above did, although it looks the best. For my method, you need to pull engine and trans on a 240z to get up in the trans tunnel-a real PITA. With stock drums, the removal of the stock proportion valve and install of aftermarket adjustable valve did nothing to improve braking-I have it adjusted all the way open and rear drums still don't lock even after manual adjustment of shoes, so it was kind of a waste of time with stock brakes. I put mine slightly behind passenger seat so that I could reach it, but my passenger couldn't mess with it.