RebekahsZ

Had this info somewhere, but now I can't find it. Can anyone give me a LIST of everything I should tell my programmer/harness modifier (wait4meperformance) to change/delete? I have my engine/trans harness, CFB alternator, DBW pedal, all three plugs to go into ECM/PCM, a large portion of the engine bay body harness, an ODB plug and stock GTO fans. I plan to box up everything but the fans and send it to them with a note of my requests. Please help if you can, hoping to send it off this week.

Thanks guys. I got an ODB port from the guy who sold me my engine/trans. Trying to get everything packed up to go to wait4meperformance. I'm searching tonight for a thread that named all the things that need to get eliminated from the PCM so I can tell wait4me what I want. Keith

I tried grinding down the bolt head to a 11mm hex size, but the clearance was still too close for me. I solved it by installing a LS1 dummy power steering pump from nookandtranny.com. It was pricey at $178, but it is right and i won't worry about it any more. 1tuffz has a great solution listed above and i would have probably done it that way had I known about that method. I'm not in love with the clearance between the plastic valve cover vent tube and the factory idler pulley.

If you will come safety wire my Wolf Creek axles, I'll let you use one of the 2 road courses and 5 drag strips nearby. Safe and sound in Alabama after the storms/tornados. Just got internet back up. Have 7 extra people under my roof and going to do some storm clean up tomorrow. The 240z was safe and sound in the garage on jackstands where it has been planted firmly for about 4 months.

I appreciate everybody's input. Will go to the next larger SAE grade 8 bolt with a proper shank, then drill the parts out to fit and cut off any threads that are too long. Will use lock washer and red locktight. Thanks again.

Your car is SO SUPER NICE! Very tastful body mods. Ever think about starting with a car that hasn't already been fixed up so nice? Seems a shame to undo what you have done so well.

Having trouble sourcing drive shaft bolts for my 240z/LS2 swap. I did search, so please nobody bawl me out. Ordered from smoorenc's source and part number a few weeks ago. What came in are 10.9 (?) spec fasteners. The bolt shank is only 1/4 inch, which doesnt span the interface between the diff flange and the thick JCI driveshaft flange. How have the GenIII/IV guys been working around this? I can't seem to find an internet bolt dealer that sells a true grade 8 - 8mm bolt. I am starting to think about drilling my flanges for the next higher size SAE bolt. I also don't know how important the length of the shank (unthreaded portion of bolt) is, but on my 240z driveshaft and half shaft bolts, it looks like Nissan put a lot of thought into it. I don't want to drop a driveshaft, even if it is only into my driveshaft loop. Any suggestions from the experts?

Where are you hiding your coils and what kind of wires and looms are you using?

Sweeeeet freakin' car! Can you put some pics of your exhaust system on the forum and send me a pm with them? Are you happy with your current system? How loud is it? I'm putting a LS2 in my 240z and your plan sounds pretty good. How loud/quiet is it? I ran a straight thru 2.5" borla on my L24 and I loved the way it sounded, but I couldn't hear my radio very well. Will be running straight exhaust electric cut-outs on my z for the track, but in town it might be nice to hear the radio every once in a while...

Looks like a great video and I desperately want to watch it, but every time I watch the video, there is a static picture of the throttle linkage in the way. Any recommendations on how to see around that? Maybe there is just some button I need to click on my computer? I'm half-way done with this swap and I want to see what you've done.

Just about done with all test fitting of mechanicals. I've been painting brackets today. Engine is back out; diff is out for painting and fuel line install. Need help with wiring and I want to make it as simple as possible. Plan for now is to use Wait4meperformance per Cable's recommendation. But, I want to get the engine wiring harness mocked up. From my initial lay-out, it looks like the PCM will fit nicely using the original plastic bracket in the passenger fender well where my battery used to be. Questions for forum: 1) Do I retain the "pigtail?" Do I need that to go thru the firewall into the inside of the car? 2) How do I find and wire-up the ODB2 port so that I can later use a Diablosport tuner? I have only the engine/trans wiring harness. Do I need to go back to the junkyard for a chassis harness? Cable, can you pm me and give me a hand; I may even need to call you again?

Have entire drivetrain out of my 72 240z available in Florence, Alabama. Clean engine from top to bottom; pulled a few months ago for LSx swap. Engine/5spd still together; have driveshaft and half shafts too. Currently Dellorto side draft carbs, but have 2 sets of early SUs in box. Engine is clean from top to bottom and was running when pulled. Contact me if you want to come and get it.

Diff out today and back in; RT mount fit perfectly without mods. Phase angles look fine (but I can't get my head up in the trans tunnel high enough to say they are perfect). Dropped diff off jack and broke off an output flange bolt (sorry J. Coffee) and will have to have it re-spot welded. Trimmed rubber mount and rear crossmember per RT mount thread (very helpful) to clear the bolts. Drive shaft in with long bolts source provided by another forum member. Modified fuel rail back on. Just about finished with mechanical mock-up. Time for the diff and engine to come back out for the third time to get fuel and brake lines done. Maybe I can get that done next Sunday when we get back from a rainy week at the beach.

Big gains over past week (my wife was out of town); pics to follow. Went to junk yard and found the CFB style alternator and bought it. The only CFB alternator that they had was the vented one without the air duct. Produces juice, but bearings sound bad. Their inventory computer showed it as coming from a 1997 Chevy 1500 truck but I can't verify that and I'm suspicious of that info. Got new rear bracket from dealer cheap ($10 with bolt) after passing up a dirty one from ebay that sold $75. Front bracket is same part number between GTO and CFB. Lots better fit. 1/4 inch clearance from rack, more room on drivers Datsun motor mount, although some amount of trimming would still have been needed. Junk yard had tons of pickup alternators which are the same, but don't have the cast-in boss for the rear bracket-I guess it would be fine just using the front bracket?? If that is the case, the pickup alternator is the ticket because they are so available. Will have alternator rebuilt once I confirm that harness builder can change over the electrical plug. Pics from Austrailia were GREAT. Advice and encouragement from all else, really helpful. Took fuel tank to hydraulic hose company to get hoses fuel pump/regulator/filter assembly put together and mounted to fuel tank, and fuel rail modified to accept AN flex line. Got it back; it is not as pretty as I hoped, but it is exactly what I asked for. Way too much money involved in fuel system. Pics to follow. Dropping diff today, before leaving for a week at the beach, to get RT mount test-fit and start on hard lines (brake and fuel) up in the trans tunnel. Thanks to everybody. When that is done, I'll be looking for advice on the wiring.

Possible thread jack here, so scold me and I'll start a new thread, but where do the "tuner" programs plug into the wiring/computer system for laptop modifications to engine tune? Same question for diagnostics port? I do not have any of the interior wiring harness; only the engine/trans harness from a pull-out.

Please put me on the list. Keith Thompson is the name. I'm spending $900 on Wolf Creek Axles, so what is another "while I'm at it?" I don't know the difference between the a merge collector or a v-band - I'll take your recommendation. My issue with headers is always GROUND CLEARANCE. Please keep it tight and off the ground. Also, think about how to support the distal end of the headers-could you put a tab on the collector that would allow the collector to bolt to the transmission, or something similar? My JTR headers were obviously made for a different mount system than the JCI mounts because the header is sooo close to the driver's side mount-I'd love to have something different. Also, if price becomes an issue, I've had great luck with factory-quality ceramic coatings; they actually stay nicer than stainless; would be just as happy with that, if not happier.

My 240z never had A/C, but in July I wish it did. They don't like it at the drag strip because it drips water on the track.

SunnyZ-this is Rebekah's dad, Keith. Has warmed up considerably here in Alabama. You and I are at about the same point on our builds. Here are some problems I'm having and some parts I've stumbled across. With the T56 shifter centered in the shifter hole, my driver's side JTR header has a millimeter clearance with the back of the JCI mount. May put the angle grinder to that unless someone has a better idea. The LS2 GTO alternator is sitting on the steering rack adjustment housing after I cut the snot out of the Datsun engine mount to get it to clear back there. Does your alternator clear everything with the LS1 alt bracket and alternator? If not, then I will take my angle grinder to the LS2 alternator and the rack, but that makes it harder for me to sell the GTO alt if I bail on it. For top-mounting the oil-pressure sender, I just found the correct adapter in the newest Speedwaymotors catalogue: 16mX1.5 male with a 1/8npt female. The Datsun sender is some crazy japaneze 1.0m pitch pipe thread. But I just got a reply from a guy who threaded the Datsun sender into 1/8 npt 5 years ago and it hasn't leaked, so that is my plan as well. Got to mock up my fuel tank, test fit my RT mount then pull motor/trans out to run hard fuel lines. Waiting to place last big orders until I have everything spec'd out - shipping costs for parts are really driving up costs: $10 part + $10 shipping = $20! What engine harness/ECU company do you plan to use? Just subscribed to your thread.

Great-thanks a million fellas. Will order Camaro alt kit tonight. What's the easiest way to fix the wiring? Looks like the terminals are different... Perhaps I just tell my wiring harness modification service (wait4meperformance) to make the change?

I am having trouble with the alternator clearance, just like many people. I've searched the forum and found the 2009 thread opened by Grenade. I have aggressively cut down my datsun engine mount tower and the JCI inner and outer driver side mount brackets, far more than what mnoel had to do (maybe a 240z/280z difference?) and that pretty well took care of the front-to-back clearance problem. However, my LS2 alternator is ON the steering rack adjustment housing. I can get a Camaro alternator, front bracket and rear bracket pretty cheap, and the camaro alternator APPEARES smaller in all dimensions, although I haven't held one in my hand. My 2 questions: 1) will the lower amperage of the Camaro alternator interfere with my use of the LS2 GTO wiring harness and computer? (There is no info on this issue on LS1tech.com either). 2) is the camaro alternator really any smaller in diameter (top to bottom) than the GTO alternator in such a way as to get my alternator off the steering rack?

Engine and trans are completely suspended by JCI mount kit. Still lots to do, but I wanted to share this pic with everybody who has been helping me on this thread and others. Slow progress, but progress non-the-less. One pic shows car up on jacks, one shows engine in and installed on JCI mounts, next is the modified 240z tank modeled after the dirty and rusty 280z tank. There has been a lot of discussion about the "baffles" in a 280z tank. The 280z tank basically has an internal sump. Now my clean 240z tank does too, and excessive venting removed and an 0-ring sealable access hole large enough to clean tank and even install fuel cell foam if I wind up needing it. I'll author a fuel tank thread that might be sticky-worthy when the car is on the ground and running. Taking lots of pictures for a build thread that discusses all the hiccups and mods that I've had to make. My best tools for this project are an angle grinder and a sledge. Thanks for all the support; more to follow. Keith

Just finished getting my engine/trans mounted in car. I turned the mount insulator and mount around backwards and the clearances were better. Bolts go toward rear of car. Then I cut 3/4 inch off passenger end of JCI trans mount and re-drilled holes. Hammered in passenger side of tunnel where crossmember goes up in tunnnel. Installed headers to make sure they didn't contact frame (drivers side is VERY close to JCI front mount), then had my wife pry on shifter with screw driver to hold shifter centered in shifter hole in trans tunnel. Drilled holes in floorboards and bolted it up! Let down jack and nothing fell! Now to mock up electrical, brakes and fuel, then tear it down, paint everything and do it all again. I still have contact between my alternator and the steering rack. Gonna remove alt, grind a little off both parts and try it again. See my Mentor Wanted thread for celebratory pictures.

Your video is REALLY COOL. Please describe your camera system, how much it cost and where I can get one. I would love to be able to look at various aspects of my car in this way.

The easiest way to use an F-body camaro/firebird shifter on a T56 out of a 2005 or 2006 GTO is to remove the entire GTO shifter then swap the "offset lever," a little steel piece that goes on the end of the shifting rod that is under the shifter, down in that rectangular housing that the shifter bolts onto with four bolts. Camaro offset levers are sold by thegearbox.org for $33 bucks plus $6 shipping. The offset lever is held on with a roll pin that you just drive out and drive back in (if you can keep from losing it). The GTO offset lever is longer than the Camaro offset lever. By swapping the offset lever you gain the ability to use any of the Camaro/Firebird shifters that are available: stock, Hurst, B&M, Pro 5.0, MGW and any of the Chinese copies that are out there. I just did this swap and the camaro shifter works great and comes right up thru the center of the 240z shifter hole in the trans tunnel. If you try to use a F-body shifter on a GTO T56 without either swapping the offset lever or modifying the shifter base plate (as described in previous post), it will shift into 2nd, 4th, 6th, but fail to lock into 1st, 3rd, 5th. Modifying the shifter base plate is cheaper, but replacing the offset lever is way easier, and pretty cheap, plus you don't run the risk of trashing your fancy shifter. Mnoel, I was going to use the B&M shifter as you recommended, but my GTO mechanism had been cracked beyond repair by the guy who pulled the motor/trans from the donor car.

So what did you finally do? I have been thinking about a rear-mounted sway bar for a while (everytime I try to drop my driveshaft with that pesky front-mounted sway bar that I have). Now is the time to change "while I'm at it" and the exhaust is off. Perhaps I could space the bar back a little and drill a hole further back on the LCA web?